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STEP-BY-STEP
PROCEDURE FOR MAKING HYDRIODIC ACID FROM NON-WATCHED INGREDIENTS
PART ONE
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Intro
Background and Terms
General Overview
Step-by-Step Instructions
Obtain ingredients
Test ingredients
Mix ingredients
React ingredients
Redistill product
Hypothetical considerations
Instructions for buying a new Cadillac
Conclusion
INTRO:
This is a really long-winded write-up.
But have faith, your patience will be rewarded. Mixed in with a boring
discussion of chemical reactions, I’ve decided to liven things up by
including detailed instructions on how to obtain a new luxury car, so bear
with me.
Argox has been slandered on this Forum. But none dare say poseur.
The following write-up is based on EXPERIENCE, not made-up bullshit
that passes for knowledge.
Hydriodic acid is illegal to manufacture or possess in California. It
may even be illegal where you live. Find out. In the
republic where Argox resides, a person can manufacture hydriodic and not go
to jail. The jail time comes from making meth with it, or selling it to
meth chemists, but avoiding prison is where your native cunning comes into
play. Check out the legality of hydriodic in your neck of the woods
before you make several hundred liters, just in case.
BACKGROUND AND TERMS:
Hydriodic acid is a fuming corrosive liquid, clear yellow to muddy brown in
color. Hydrogen iodide is a transparent fuming corrosive
gas. 57% hydriodic acid is a constant boiling (127ºC/760 mm)
mixture of hydrogen iodide and water.
In this write-up, the notation HI will refer to hydrogen iodide--a gas.
The notation HI(aq) will refer to 57% hydriodic acid--a liquid.
HI(aq) is used in the clandestine production of meth amphetamine.
HI(aq) reduces ephedrine to methamphetamine and can be regenerated by red
phosphorus (RP) and water. Instructions for making meth using this
method can be found elsewhere on this Forum. I don’t know if the
instructions are any good or not. I’ve never made meth and don’t know
fuck all about making it. This is absolutely true. However,
I am familiar with its market dynamics.
HI and HI(aq) are strictly and successfully controlled by the war-on-drugs
agencies, since these compounds are relatively obscure and little used by
industry. Any attempt to purchase HI or HI(aq) from a legitimate
supplier will draw the attention of the authorities. Guaranteed.
Ephedrine-based meth laboratories in the 50 to 100 kg/week range will have
clandestine sources for ephedrine, RP, and HI(aq). The black market
price of HI(aq) varies according to local market conditions. It ranges
from $us[deleted] to $us[deleted]per liter in North America, with wide swings
in price in the same area depending on its availability and the amount of
meth manufacture taking place at the time. A liter of
HI(aq) weighs 1,700 grams and contains 970 grams of HI.
The clandestine meth chemist without a black market source for HI(aq), or the
enterprising chemist who wishes to supply the former, have three choices for
making HI(aq):
1. Combine iodine and red phosphorus, carefully add water.
This method is widely used by those chemists who supply meth labs with
HI(aq). However, it has the disadvantage of using watched
chemicals. Red phosphorus (RP) is controlled. Iodine (I2) is
watched. Obtaining OTC RP and I2 is not a serious endevour. OTC
RP from match box strikers and OTC iodine from tincture is time consuming and
labor intensive. Only tweakers will attempt to make their own RP
and I2. Besides, this write-up is all about making HI(aq) from
innocuous non-watched ingredients at any scale.
2. Bubble hydrogen sulfide gas through an aqueous slurry of I2, distill
HI(aq).
H2S + I2(aq) --> 2HI(aq) + Sº
This method is suitable for large-scale production of HI(aq). The
disadvantage is that hydrogen sulfide is extremely poisonous. I really
want to stress that the novice clandestine chemist should never attempt to
generate H2S. H2S is a deadly poison, there is no antidote. With
a lethal dose measured in small ppms, death can be expected in 15 minutes
from acute cellular asphyxiation.
I was once gassed with hydrogen cyanide, which is similar in toxicity to
hydrogen sulfide, luckily there IS an antidote for cyanide poisoning, and my
lab was equipped with a Lilly kit and my co-workers were quick to respond,
and the chief chemist had the brains to show up at the emergency room in that
poor South American town with a bottle of thiosulfate. Had the gas been
H2S instead of HCN, Argox would not be here to tell the tale. Having
said that, for manufacturing HI(aq) in quantities above 20 liters/day, this
would be the most practical method. However, I repeat that H2S is
deadly poison, and if anything goes wrong, you and everybody in the immediate
area will be at risk of dying. The obnoxious smell of H2S at low
concentrations quickly overwhelms the senses at higher concentrations, and it
is quite common for the victim to assume that “the smell went away, so
everything’s OK.” Usually the last wrong assumption they ever
make...
3. React potassium iodide with ortho-phosphoric acid, recover HI(aq)
and HI. The chemistry of phosphorous is complex. Observation
indicates that the following are the major reactions:
1) KI + H3PO4(aq) + delta temp--> HI(aq)+ KH2PO4
2) KH2PO4 + KI + delta temp--> HI + K2HPO4
3) additional HI(aq) and HI is obtained throughout the dehydration of
potassium phosphate salts and polymerization of same while reacting with
potassium iodide at high temperature--400+ºC
This method has the advantage of being safe and controllable and uses non
watched ingredients. The process is similar to a simple distillation,
and requires only the type of glassware normally owned by the clandestine
chemist. For 10 liters/day of HI(aq), this method is ideal,
requiring only a 22L RB flask and heating mantle. A 12L-10L RB flask
/heating mantle will produce 5 liters/day; a 5L RB flask/heating mantle 2.5
liters/day, etc. The heating mantle is a key element in making HI(aq),
oil and sand baths will not take the temperature high enough. The
tweaker can use a 1L erlenmeyer with single 24/40 neck on a stirrer/hot plate
combo and produce 300-400 cc in a couple of hours. (Percent recovery is
a function of scale. At larger scales, more HI(aq) will be recovered
mol/mol per KI. 92% recovery mol/mol at the 22L scale and larger,
contrasted with only 75% at the 1L scale. Why this is true I can only
speculate, but it is true nonetheless.)
Now, for the first time on the Hive, this easy method will be explained
step-by-step.
GENERAL OVERVIEW:
Disregard everything that has appeared previously on the Hive regarding
the reaction of KI and H3PO4. I used TFSE extensively while initially
researching this procedure, and without exception, all previous information
is unclear, misleading, and, in several cases, made-up bullshit. The HI
FAQ on Rhodium’s page, as regards KI and H3PO4, is erroneous. But
you can count on my write-up to tell you exactly how to make HI(aq)
safely. No bullshit here.
Here is a general overview of the procedure, specifics to follow:
In general terms, you will be mixing KI powder with H3PO4 liquid in a stirred
RB flask on a heating mantle rigged for atmospheric distillation. The
RB flask will be equipped with an condenser for downward distillation, a
receiver to recover HI(aq), and a second receiver/trap filled with dH2O in
which to bubble and recover HI.
KI will be converted first into HI(aq), then into HI(aq) and HI as the
reaction proceeds. Hydriodic acid will distill at 105 to 127ºC.
After the initial run of acid is produced and the contents of the reactor
cooled, the dilute hydriodic acid will be redistilled to produce HI(aq).
The dilute hydriodic acid from the redistillation that comes over at less
than 127ºC will be reused in subsequent reactions in the HI
trap/receiver. No dilute acid should go to waste. Overall
efficiency goes way up by recycling the dilute acid into the next
batch.
If this procedure sounds complicated, it’s not, and your good buddy
Argox will shortly give you all the tips, short cuts, and safety
considerations that you will need to successfully make HI(aq) the first time.
Making 10L of HI(aq) in a 22L reactor takes one full 24 hour day from start
to finish. This includes setting up the glassware and dismantling
and cleaning up for the next batch. You need to stay awake during the
reaction. The reaction should not be left unattended for more than
10 minutes, the dynamics are continually changing as the reaction proceeds,
suck back can be a concern, you need to stay on top of it. It takes the
same amount of time in a [deleted], but if you have the resources and
knowledge to set up at that scale, you’re a master, not a student, and need
no further instruction from me.
The reaction is simple. However, there are two caveats.
Caveat One--there is a white crystalline precipitate left in the bottom of
the flask after the reaction is over and everything has cooled--condensed
phosphates. This residue is insoluble in hot water and non polar
solvents. It must be physically scraped from the flask. (Not a
difficult chore with a 1L or 2 L, but with a 3N 22L RB count on
breaking at least one neck. On a larger scale the problem can be solved
by investing in a [deleted] with a large center flange opening that will
allow you to get your arm inside and scrape.
Caveat Two--the majority of HI(aq) is produced at a temperature above the
melting point of Teflon. Teflon paddles will melt and make the
phosphate residue even more impervious. Teflon stir bars will melt,
revealing the magnet. But really, who cares? Don’t sweat the
Teflon. (After all, once that first hypothetical batch of HI(aq) goes
out the hypothetical door, you can afford to buy a $20 sheet of Teflon and
cut a dozen new paddles.) Glass-coated metal rods and blades are the
answer for the perfectionist in the audience. Just keep in mind that no
exposed metal can be anywhere near HI(aq). Drop one little drop
on your heating mantle and watch it burn a hole through the aluminum housing
on its way to China. COVER your heating mantle with foil--lots of
it! That’s my way of saying that freshly made HI(aq) is very, very
corrosive. So don’t even think of entering the lab without eye
protection, a lab coat, and good rubber gloves. If two drops of
HI(aq) can burn a serious indentation into a cast-iron lab stand base,
imagine what a splash of acid will do to your skin, or worse, an eye.
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PART TWO
STEP-BY-STEP INSTRUCTIONS
1. Obtain ingredients.
Ortho-phosphoric acid, (H3PO4) commonly called phosphoric acid, a thick clear
syrupy liquid, can be purchased or ordered from the neighborhood hydroponics
store. They sell it as “pH Down.” Conversely you can order it
from the chem supply. Don’t respond with posts belly aching about how
you’re too paranoid or too smart to buy from the chem supply, and need a
write-up that is 100% over-the-counter at Wal-Mart. Argox is not the
guy to bitch to about chemicals not being available at the corner Circle
K. He recently tried to help in that regard and only received grief for
his effort. Finding chems is what separates the men from the boys, the
serious from the dilettantes. Back to subject. Buy 75%
technical grade phosphoric acid--this works best. Phosphoric acid is
non watched and OTC. It’s in everything, even Coca-Cola. Next to
sulfuric acid, phosphoric is the most common acid on the planet. You can
find it on the shelf at the hydroponics store. DO NOT listen to all
those posts about how you can get phosphoric acid at Home Depot or the
flooring company. That is bullshit. [A personal aside--I think
bees should receive a rating, like on e-bay. Except it would be a
bullshit rating. The more bullshit you post, the more negative the
rating.] The phosphoric acid sold for cleaning tile is only 15-25%
acid, the rest is water, surfactants, soap, and stuff that will fuck up the
reaction. Make sure you buy 75% technical grade H3PO4. It is
strictly OTC, so no bitching. One gallon on the store shelf retails for
$us20--be sure and read the label--some “pH Down” is nitric acid--you want
the label to say “phosphoric acid.” A 5 gallon pail can be ordered from
a hydroponics store for $us65.
Potassium iodide, a heavy white crystalline powder, can be bought at the chem
supply. It is non watched and non controlled. You can buy it
on-line. Technical grade is OK, but most supply houses only stock the
USP grade. The higher price for USP grade in the global scheme of
things is insignificant, buy whatever is easiest to obtain. USP KI can
be purchased for $us36/kg. There is a boom in KI these days, because of
the terrorism scare, take advantage of the general panic and buy a lot if it
now, you will absolutely go unnoticed. 1.3 kg of KI will yield one
liter of HI(aq) at 94% efficiency (very large scale), so order accordingly,
before the WOD reads this post and adds KI to the “List.”
2. Test ingredients.
Determine the concentration of H3PO4 by boiling it. Below is a chart of
boiling points for different concentrations of H3PO4. You want yours to
boil at 135º. That will indicate 75% acid. If your sample boils
at a lesser temperature, don’t despair, boil all your acid until it reaches 135º
(and then make sure to get 75% next time). You can boil phosphoric acid
in an open beaker on the hot plate. The fumes are non-toxic and
non-corrosive--they smell like Sprite (because phosphoric acid is used to
give soft drinks that citric flavor). H3PO4 is generally unreactive at
room temperature--have no fear about mixing room temperature H3PO4 and KI in
the RB flask. Nothing will happen. At room temperature, H3PO4 and
KI will not react.
H3PO4
Concentration Boiling point
% by weight ºC
0
100
5
100.1
10
100.2
20
100.8
30
101.8
50
108
75
135
85
158
100
261
105
>300
115
>500
3. Mix ingredients
The mol/mol ratio of KI to H3PO4(100% basis) that works best, according to
EXPERIENCE, is about 1:1.2. Here is how that is calculated:
1 mole KI = 166 grams
1 mole H3PO4 (100% basis)= 98 grams = 131 grams of 75% H3PO4
1 X 166 = 166
1.2 X 131 = 157
157/166 = 0.946
Therefore, for every ten grams of KI, add 9.5 grams of 75% H3PO4. Nobody
will get mad, if you just add equal parts (weight/weight--w/w) KI and
H3PO4. Now you understand how I arrived at this simple
formula. Although it sounds almost flippant to say add equal parts by
weight KI and 75% H3PO4, truth be told this formula was obtained after lots
of trial and error. Adding more acid will not increase yield, but you
can try it, nothing bad will happen.
As soon as I post this, three or four of the usual suspects will follow up
with posts saying that I’m full of shit and that what you really need to do
is add water so that all the HI will have enough water to come over at
57%. See, if you figure 1 mole of KI has 137 grams of iodine and with
the one proton donated by the phosphoric acid that makes 138 grams of HI, so
138 grams of HI would need 104 grams of water to make 57% HI(aq).
Follow me? These arm-chair chemists will then tell you that the equal
w/w 75% H3PO4 to KI only adds about 42 grams of water, therefore they
will say to add 62 grams of distilled water in addition to the phosphoric
acid for every mole of KI. Don’t listen to them. I’m heading them
off at the pass right now. The reaction just doesn’t work that
way. (How do I know? I thought of adding more water from the
git-go and tried it. I’ve also experimented with every concentration of
phosphoric acid from 50% to 105%.) If you add more water, you will only
generate a shit load of dilute acid, which must be distilled off before the
real acid is made. See, what the arm-chair chemists don’t know because
they haven’t actually done this, is that most of the HI(aq) comes over AFTER
all the water from the 75% H3PO4 has distilled off. The bulk of the
HI(aq) is formed from the dehydration of 105% H3PO4 at high temperature, a
process typical of the complex chemistry of phosphates. The H3PO4
actually polymerizes into long-chain “condensed” phosphates and gives off
water and donates a proton in the process. This is the water and
hydrogen that make most of the HI(aq). And those long-chain
polymers are what stick to the bottom of your flask like stink on a
pig. And even if I’m somehow wrong on the theory, in practice I am
right on target.
Now that you know how much to add, just dump the two ingredients into an
appropriately sized flask. Nothing will happen at room temperature.
There is no fizzing or effervescence during the entire reaction, so you can
fill the flask fairly full. But no more than 60% for a RB, less for an
erlenmeyer. But you already know that, right, because you have at least
rudimentary lab skills, right? There will be a period of some massive
bumping at a larger scale once the water boils off and the polymerization
begins, even with agitation, so if you are faint of heart, fill the flask
only 30%. At 1L, 3L and 5L bumping is not a problem. The bumping
is nerve-wracking at the 22L scale. At [deleted] scale the
bumping will make you jump out of your fucking skin. Agitation helps
but doesn’t eliminate bumping altogether, so if you get scared easy, add less
ingredients. It’s really a function of balls versus greed. If you
have the pelotas, then load that sucker up, ’cause it’s a full 24
hours whether you make a little or a lot. If the doors come down,
the charges will be the same, as well, so I say go for it.
4. React ingredients
UNDER A FUME HOOD, heat and stir the ingredients--it’s that
simple. At 65º an obvious reaction will take place. The
clear solution will turn dark brown. This is hydriodic acid being
formed. Keep the heat on high, don’t let off. The solution will
begin to boil at 105ºC and a small amount of milky white distillate
will come over into the receiver.
READ THIS PART--IT’S IMPORTANT. This initial white distillate and the gas bubbles
that are generated at this initial stage of the reaction are poisonous.
(OK. OK. Hydriodic acid is hardly something you want to drink for
breakfast either, but this white distillate is REALLY poisonous, even
compared to HI(aq).) You must remove this white milky distillate once
the first drops of yellow or brown acid start to come over. So begin
the reaction with a small RB flask as a receiver, say 100 to 250 cc.
Collect the initial white distillate and stopper it. DO NOT BREATHE
this stuff, I’ll explain what it is in a minute. If you do this
reaction on a small scale, the white distillate may only be a few drops, get
rid of it anyway. On a large scale, it is enough to kill you. You
will have a second receiver filled with dH2O to recover HI. However, at
the beginning, substitute it for a small flask filled with dilute NaOH
solution or the dilute aqua ammonia (“clear ammonia”) that you can buy at the
grocery store. Why? Because the first distillate and the initial
gas contain H2S (the same hydrogen sulfide that I mentioned being deadly
poison at the beginning of this long-winded tome). My guess is that
since phosphoric acid is often made from the reaction of sulfuric acid on
phosphate rock, trace amounts of sulfur remain in the phosphoric acid.
HI is a powerful reducing agent (that’s why the meth guys need it), so there
is a redox between HI and any sulfides. (2HI + MeS + delta temp
-->H2S + I2 + Meº. And since H2S is less soluble and more volatile
than HI, it comes over first.) This is something else the arm-chair
chemists won’t warn you against, but count on Argox to keep you safe, if you
pay attention. Like I said, the tweaker with the 1L won’t notice
anything, but the bee loading up a 22L could end up very sick, if my advice
is not followed. Anyway, add any base, preferably NaOH or ammonia to
the white distillate under a fume hood before you toss it out and as long as
the initial bubbles are taken up in NaOH solution or ammonia solution, and
that solution is also poured down the sink, you will never even know that
Argox just saved you from a hospital trip or at least from having to suck on
your oxygen bottle for an hour or so. (The arm-chair guys will say that
HI smells like H2S and that I’m just confusing one with the other--they are
wrong--you can get a good nasal dose of HI fumes and apart from the pain,
nothing will happen to you. Get a good dose of H2S and you are going to
be unconscious in a few minutes. Initially your teeth will tingle,
everything will spin, and as you collapse to your knees, you will realize
that this is it, you are going to die. If you’re lucky, like me, you’ll
wake up in the emergency room puking sodium thiosulfate (oh yeah, that’s
cyanide poisoning, for which an antidote exists--if you breath H2S, you’re
shit outta luck--there’s no antidote). Anyway I digress: HI
smells rotten, but pales in comparison to the deadly stench of H2S.
After getting rid of the initial milky white distillate and taking up the
initial bubbles in a dilute base and throwing both away, connect your two
regular receivers. This is an atmospheric distillation, so relax.
Just keep the heat on high and the overhead or magnetic stirring going.
On a smaller scale, stirring is not necessary. For bees with big
equipment who lust after the perfect yield, stir.
The reaction is not over when all the brown acid has boiled out of the
reactor, it has just begun. Keep the heat on high and watch in
amazement as more and more and more acid keeps forming in the
condenser. Don’t worry about the thermometer at the still head going
above 127ºC, it is still HI(aq) coming over, just the temp inside the reactor
is getting HOT. At 400ºC both HI(aq) and HI will come over. Lots
of HI at a larger scale, so be prepared for it. About 10% of the total
acid production will be in the form of HI that must be collected in the water
trap/receiver. HI is exceedingly soluble in water and the dissolution
is exothermic, so stirring is not absolutely necessary, but cooling is.
More than 10% of the total acid comes over as HI, but most of it is being
absorbed by the liquid in the receiver catching the distillate. That is
why you keep the dilute acid in the receiver even after the 57% acid comes
over. If you remove the initial dilute acid and then collect the 127ºC
boiling fraction (HI(aq)) as a separate fraction, then to your dismay, you
will have loads of HI coming over that must be caught in water. And
then you will find that the hydriodic acid in the receiver is incredibly
concentrated-- 70% not 57%. The 70% acid gives off so much fumes that
handling it is a challenge. So just let ALL the acid collect in the
same receiver flask, make sure your receiver is big enough, and you won’t
have to deal with much actual HI gas.
{If you don’t have a clue about how to set up a for atmospheric distillation
with a still head and condenser and water traps and such, and don’t know
about RBs and heating mantles, and how to control suck-back, and if none of
what you are reading makes much sense, and especially if you don’t have a
good fume cabinet--PLEASE don’t try this. There are less dramatic ways
to kill yourself than producing a shitload of HI(aq) and spilling it.}
The reaction is over when no more HI(aq) or HI is produced. The
reaction is over when no more acid drips into the receiver and/or suck-back
begins to be a real problem in the water trap (suck-back with HI is
violent--the most violent of any gas Argox has ever worked with, make SURE
you have an empty trap to catch suck back). The remaining contents of
the reactor will look like white taffy. The dilute acid in the
receiver will look dark brown. The dilute acid in the water trap will
be a clear brownish yellow. Once no more acid comes over, you can turn
off the heat, take off the water trap, and allow the glassware to
cool--slowly. Keep in mind that your glassware is at 400+ºC, so don’t
even think about handling it or taking it out of the mantle or off of the
hotplate--the thermal shock will crack the flask instantly. Since you
know Argox doesn’t make this shit up (unlike others, nameless for now), this
means that he found out the hard way about thermal shock and cracking
glassware, and is saving you a lot of grief with these words of wisdom.
5. Redistill HI(aq)
There are two ways of telling if your acid is 57%:
1) Weigh it in a graduated cylinder--the density of 57% acid is 1.7. 500
cc will weigh 850 grams, exactly. Anything less is not 57%.
2) Boil it. 57% hydriodic acid boils at 125-127ºC.
(OK. OK. Get back on your chair. I was just kidding to see if you
were awake. A little black humor--of course you don’t fucking boil it,
it will corrode everything in your lab including your lungs, just weigh it.)
Probably none of the initial acid collected in either of the receivers is
going to be 57%. Weigh it to find out. If its density is less
than 1.7, then you must redistill. No sweat. There is a short cut
that makes this a snap.
The redistillation is a straitforward atmospheric distillation. No gas
will be generated. As soon as the acid boils and starts coming over you
must watch the thermometer at the still head. As soon as it reaches
125º, change receivers. Everything that comes over from that point
forward is 57% HI(aq). The very last drop will distill out of the
boiling flask. No residue will be left, it all boils. In fact,
after you have done this distillation once, you will quickly figure out the
obvious short cut--collect the fraction that comes over at less than 127º,
and then turn off the heat and everything left in your boiling flask is 57%
HI(aq), no need to distill it--it’s already pure. Just allow it to cool
before you package it up.
6. Hypothetical considerations
What follows is the only speculative part of this write-up. You might
call this Argox’ version of made-up bullshit. However, even my
bullshit should be instructive.
How might the public view hypothetical shop-made HI(aq)? (It depends on
their intelligence, of course.) See, acid made by the method I have
just detailed is dirty brown. This is due to trace amounts of HI being
oxidized to I2 as it comes over in the condenser (4HI + O2 = 2I2 + 2H2O) and
from impurities in the tech grade KI. The brown color is
insignificant, and does not interfere with the potency of shop-made acid.
Commercial HI(aq) contains a reducing agent as a stabilizer, usually
hypophosphorous acid, and is clear yellow. In the hypothetical case you
use this write-up for other than purely theoretical considerations, at some
point the topic of off color might arise. But, again, speaking
hypothetically, I would recommend that you educate rather than
stabilize. Unstabilized shop-made HI(aq) will work just as well as the
store-bought variety in a hypothetical user’s hypothetical application.
The difference is purely cosmetic. The way to convert dirty brown acid
into clear yellow acid is to add red phosphorous and heat it. But
hey! Wait a minute! Isn’t that what a hypothetical user might be
doing anyway? Adding RP and heating it? Explain this to whomever,
hypothetically. Give whoever a demonstration in a test tube.
Convince them. Hypothetically.
Once the hypothetical user overcomes his or her initial reluctance, don’t be
surprised with the heavy pounding on the door late one night--no, it’s not
the cops, it might be that hypothetical person begging for more hypothetical
acid. The word might hypothetically spread to others, and the
all-request line become incessant. Of course, I really wouldn’t know
anything about any of this...it’s all just hypothetical. I am making it
up, OK.
As for packaging, hypothetically pour acid into amber glass bottles, or
better yet, the red .....oh shit, since this is all hypothetical, I wouldn’t
want to be hypothetically linked to a certain bottle...hell, if you are
intelligent enough to make acid, you can figure out in what to put it.
Remember--one liter of HI(aq) weighs exactly 1,700 grams. In the
hypothetical case the hypothetical user goes into a production frenzy and
needs volume, think black HDPE jerrycans.
HI(aq) must be protected against light and always stored in a cool
(temperature and otherwise cool) area AWAY from people. I
wouldn’t freeze it, but since I’ve never frozen any, I couldn’t really say
what might happen. The acid will slowly degrade over time, but no
big deal. Without a stabilizing agent, HI will slowly revert to
I2. But like I said, no problem: the hypothetical user’s
hypothetical application will solve that hypothetical problem.
With your native intelligence, you’ll figure out all sorts of other shortcuts
and useful procedures in the off-chance you actually paid attention and
hypothetically decide to make a little hypothetical acid.
7. Instructions for buying a new Cadillac.
What? Did I bore you, and you missed that part? You mean you
weren’t paying attention? Don’t recall anything in all this gibberish
about chemical reactions and corrosive acid that had anything to do with an
expensive car? Oh. I’m sorry. In case you missed it
the first time, the highly detailed instructions on how to buy a new Cadillac
start at the beginning of this post, right where it says “INTRO.”
CONCLUSION:
I have three motivations in posting this:
One, to publicly apologize and make up to Rhodium for the “bad” post from a
couple weeks ago (which was deleted so fast few of you even read it).
Two, because Ritter asked about this process in a PM, and if he gets a
write-up, then everybody gets a write-up. Sorry to take so long,
buddy.
And three, Argox has too much time on his hands while the pots boil. No
seriously, it’s because I am fucking nuts, besides... once you do the
above procedure a few times, you will get tired of staying up all night
worrying if your incredibly expensive flask is going to break and shoot
a fuming volcano of incredibly corrosive hot acid all over your incredibly
expensive heating mantle and burn a hole all the way to the center of the
fucking earth, taking most of your lab with it. You will then figure
out a better way. But hey! That’s another
write-up.
Regards
Argox
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Very nice,thankyou very much for
this info argox.Ballz is going to bed now and will be dreaming of HI all
night long.Nice writeup-fun to read.