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	Posts 1 - 23 of 23	Subject: Hypo question

	Chem_Imbalanced (Stranger) 09-13-01 17:32 No 213276		Hypo question	Bookmark Reply
			A friend of mine uses Hypo, which I know nothing about.  I've noticed that the final product always seems to be wet.  After air drying it was put in a baggie but when I returned to it the next day it was wet again.  When put in a glass pipe it bubbles and moisture creeps up the stem dissolving the white coating.  Is this typical of meth made w/ Hypo?  I have noticed it before but always thought it was people making it weigh heavier. i'M juST a GiRL!
	No_Name1871 (Stranger) 09-13-01 18:06 No 213281		Re: Hypo question	Bookmark Reply
			Ive noticed this also from time to time. Does the stuff burn kinda green? This could either be HCl moisture that crept into the final product, or could possibly be lye. One way I have found to get around the lye problem is to filter the NP solvent as it is being decanted from the post reaction phases beaker. This catches any remnants of undissolved lye or trash that would otherwise folow through when a filter isnt used. If you notice the cloudiness of the NP as its being gassed turning from cloudy to clear and then dope precipitating, then lye could possibly be the culprit. I have found that the cloudiness of the NP will dissappear when filtered through several filters, before gassing that is. I'm not sure, and I'm pretty sure someone else can clarify this matter, I'll probably clarify for myself by UTFSE. I only wanted better shit, not all the TRAUMA-DRAMA that followed!
	BigBird (Hive Bee) 09-13-01 20:15 No 213314		Re: Hypo question	Bookmark Reply
			One way I have found to get around the lye problem is to filter the NP solvent as it is being decanted from the post reaction phases beaker. This catches any remnants of undissolved lye or trash that would otherwise folow through when a filter isnt used. First of all, you should never have undissolved lye - if it doesn't dissolve in water, don't use it, time for a new can of lye.  Second- you should not need to filter n/p at all- filter will not stop your dissolved lye and there is no reason for trash to be in your solution in the first place.  A friend of mine uses Hypo uses Hypo for what?
	Chem_Imbalanced (Stranger) 09-13-01 22:36 No 213399		Re: Hypo question	Bookmark Reply
			No_Name~~I've never noticed a green color.  When he was explaining his process to me he said he puts 3/4 can of lye in and caps it real fast because he has a "reaction".  I guess so!!  After adding his NP he pulls that off, adds some muratic acid, shakes, and evaporates by fans. BigBird~~~Instead of using RP he uses H3PO2 (aka:Hypophosphorous). i'M juST a GiRL!
	whatsupium (Hive Addict) 09-13-01 22:40 No 213401		Re: Hypo question	Bookmark Reply
			UUHHHHHHHHHHHHHH, o.k. There is a distinct lack of innocence by any of us, put down the rocks folks...
	No_Name1871 (Stranger) 09-13-01 23:16 No 213411		Re: Hypo question	Bookmark Reply
			First of all, you should never have undissolved lye - if it doesn't dissolve in water, don't use it, time for a new can of lye.  Yes. This is true. Maybee sometimes I use a SOLUTION OF LYE, and then other times I use straight lye. When using straight lye, sometimes it dont all dissolve in the meth solution, and when stirring, you can see what looks like bits of undissolved lye. I use filters to catch that shit. I believe this too bee the cause of my dope turning green, unless its because SWIM didnt dry his supposedly Anhydrous HCl. When he was explaining his process to me he said he puts 3/4 can of lye in and caps it real fast because he has a "reaction". I never knew you wanted a reaction on this part. Doesn't this lower his yield? After adding his NP he pulls that off, adds some muratic acid, shakes, and evaporates by fans. Does he check the pH while adding the MA?
	Jacked (Ancient Alchemist Delux) 09-14-01 01:53 No 213440		Re: Hypo question	Bookmark Reply
			What % is your hypo? The end result is directly connected to the effort applied
	Chem_Imbalanced (Stranger) 09-14-01 08:55 No 213524		Re: Hypo question	Bookmark Reply
			I know when I use to dream I would always siphon my NP through a few filters before gassing.  I don't think it's a good idea to have a reaction when adding lye either.  I would think you're yield would be lowered by this as well.  If what he says is true he's getting about a 80-90% yield.  He probably never has even seen ph papers.  He's one that was taught one way and that's all he knows.  He starts w/ the same amount of everything including his lye.  i'M juST a GiRL!
	Chem_Imbalanced (Stranger) 09-14-01 08:57 No 213525		Re: Hypo question	Bookmark Reply
			I'm not sure what % the Hypo is.  I know he would'nt know either. i'M juST a GiRL!
	Payin2Much (Hive Bee) 09-14-01 15:45 No 213685		Re: Hypo question	Bookmark Reply
			WTF is Hypo? Country_Fuck Fan Club Member
	AbSoLuTe (Hive Bee) 09-14-01 16:09 No 213692		Re: Hypo question	Bookmark Reply
			Hypophosphorous Acid H3O2P, I think, It is a powerful reducing agent, sold in liquid form about 50% from mem. Or could be Hypophosphoric Acid H4O6P2 I suppose either could be added to Iodine to make Hydroidic acid to reduce Ephedrines to the Honey oil. Still stranger than you!
	Jacked (Ancient Alchemist Delux) 09-14-01 18:05 No 213726		Re: Hypo question	Bookmark Reply
			Only in Higher consentrations than you can buy (51%) you need around 75% to 80% to get a complete reduction of E to meth. That is why is hasn't replaced RP in the reaction. Hypophosphorous Acid (H3PO2) is easer to get than Rp, It is watched, but what aint? There is more civilan uses for it other than for military ordnace or making drugs. No, RP is not used in fireworks anymore.    The higher consentrations of the Hypo needed is the problem.. It also goes bad after a while.. It has a short shelf life.. The end result is directly connected to the effort applied
	BigBird (Hive Bee) 09-14-01 18:42 No 213734		Re: Hypo question	Bookmark Reply
			When using straight lye, sometimes it dont all dissolve in the meth solution, and when stirring, you can see what looks like bits of undissolved lye. I use filters to catch that shit. Filter will Still not catch the DISSOLVED lye !!!  If your lye does not dissolve, then you need more h2o (or less lye).  I believe this too bee the cause of my dope turning green Not likely.  (but you already know that) Mike Hunt ??
	Chem_Imbalanced (Stranger) 09-15-01 22:23 No 213963		Re: Hypo question	Bookmark Reply
			The shelf life of Hypo is short, would this make the final product have a short shelf life as well?  i'M juST a GiRL!
	BigBird (Hive Bee) 09-16-01 00:07 No 213977		Re: Hypo question	Bookmark Reply
			Not if it isn't in the final product.
	No_Name1871 (Stranger) 09-16-01 05:58 No 214022		Re: Hypo question	Bookmark Reply
			The shelf life of C^10H^15N has to bee some time, I once found some that was once lost for months, and it smoked fine. It was sealed away from moisture, and light. Im sure these two factors really affect the shelf life of the stuff.... I only wanted better shit, not all the TRAUMA-DRAMA that followed!
	Jacked (Ancient Alchemist Delux) 09-23-01 14:25 No 216445		Re: Hypo question	Bookmark Reply
			Swim has only seen positave results using Hypo that is 75% or better. This has been hashed out many times before and by better than Swim will ever bee.. All that were involved came to the same conclushion. 51% just wont do it.. Fudgemonkey, and Mister_Clean, (hehe) were two who including Swim made three, worked this out some time before. All three came to the same end results around the same time. Swim says post your methods for some of us old timers to gander at this truly great chemistry yall are doing. You might shead light on something we have missed in the past.. We might have missed something important that you good people have not.. Please post your methods of 51% success. The end result is directly connected to the effort applied
	Hematite (Individual) 09-23-01 17:12 No 216486		Re: Hypo question	Bookmark Reply
			re. the shelf life of Hypo being 'short'. 6 months and no noticable change, I wouldn't be inclined to call this 'short'. Perhaps you folks are talking comparison value to other acids or something I know nothing of, if so my mistake. But if not then the information gatherer might find this interesting. Regards, Hematite.
	Jacked (Ancient Alchemist Delux) 09-23-01 22:49 No 216550		Re: Hypo question	Bookmark Reply
			And how was this tested? Hypo is not stable in the aqua solution and does loose it's sharpnes, Check at 6 months and again at 9 and again at 12. How would you check a solution such as this? specific gravity maybe? I know I have trusted these findings and have not done this my self. But I would bet the farm on the ones that have. Also the chem supply that supplyed the solution stated it should be used in a 6 month window even thinking that it was to be diluted for cleaning of new S/S meat cutting parts that were manufactured for a hotdog company and this was a part of the contract, A hypo bath or autoclave steralisation. All this was fed into the chem supplyer's and he disided what would be more cost effective for this purpose. He discided and recomend the dilution of the hotest solution he could give 51%, and sugested small 500ml at a time, to be reordered after supply was deleted or 6 months shelf life was exceaded. Imajen that, I wounder if I could come up with a seranio that a chemsupply would recomend Red P that would be sound. (already have} The end result is directly connected to the effort applied
	Hematite (Individual) 09-24-01 01:02 No 216587		Re: Hypo question	Bookmark Reply
			And how was this tested? By concentration and use in a rxn. Hypo is not stable in the aqua solution and does loose it's sharpnes, Check at 6 months and again at 9 and again at 12. I do not understand what happens to it. It has shown no loss of reactivity in the slightest over this time. Perhaps the fact of concentration before use somehow removes effected acid with the H2O? Anyway, what should a person look for with this unstable acid as tell tale signs of degredation? This is what nobody has ever explained, only that it does degrade. Regards, Hematite.
	Jacked (Ancient Alchemist Delux) 09-24-01 02:43 No 216611		Re: Hypo question	Bookmark Reply
			Color change would be the first thing to happen, I don't know what happens to the hypo but it degrades with the H20, Mister_Clean hypo will dehydrate without vac , just by heating. The commercial hypo degrades over time, I'm not exactly sure if its due to actual acid breakdown or to absorption of water, but I was told not to use any over 6 months old. Mister_Clean Adding red is ridiculous. Why would you want to do sumpthin like that? Hypo acid gives off a gas when its heated. The gas reduces I2 to HI. the HI binds to that nasty little HO and that ho reduces into H2O causing the leftover I to be oxidized to I2. Round and round she goes. Mister_Clean says to me, Jacked, you have my respect. I am trying to lay this one out as simply as I can, but between gettin dropped offline every 10 minutes and being a longtime member of SMI (Spun Monkeys Indeed) it is takin awhile. Do it right, and Hypo has a lot of advantages over RP/I and birch. Hypo is easy cookin. You know when it's done, no question. Soon as it stops fuming. Hypo is FAST. Forget the 72 hour reflux, that is BS. average hypo time on a 100gram cook is 25 minutes or so. I've had them go as short as 10. Hypo can be combined with push pull real easily. attach a push pullunit to the top of your condenser to catch your I when it blows off. Hypo returns are more consistent and higher than push pull. It always gives you around 80 perceent. If you can do it with RP (and I know you can, jacked) then Hypo will be a piece of cake. In answer to your ? earlier, I consulted a resource who said that when stored for more than 6 months in aqueous solution, hypo will start degrading to phosphoric. See, pure hypo is crystals. If you ever went in and bought it directly, you would see they add the water to it right when they give it to you. Those were the good old days. slip the kid a fifty and get it dry. hypo is super water hungry. leave a bottle of H3PO2 crystals open for a few hours and you got soup. when you are running the hypo, you just throw your feed in with the acid, toss in the I and plug with your condenser. Then, while your holding the condenser on, take a bunch of duct tape and tape that mother on. Start with a rubber stopper duct taped into the top of the condenser with a 3" pieced of tape. Sometimes the stopper blows off, sometimes it dont. The flask and condenser will be full of thick smoke, and impossible to see in. Dont worry, it wont burn anything. after a minute or 2 the top of the condenser will start to clear. If your stopper didnt blow, take it off. Put it on the heat,and when the soup is done it is the same color as your rp honey. a clear yellow. condensate on flask walls will be pure water color without any yellow color. That means its done. no filtering. you need less than molar equivalent of NaOH to base it, which aint much. There is in hypo, the legend of the "perfect cook" . that means that you got the ratio perfect and it bases itself. Thats it, thats all there is to it. There are easy ways to make hypo. Fester works in a plating shop, which is a pretty fun place to work, really. You see I fought it myself only to fail, Swim was successful after taking the advice of my friend and getting with the program. This is a true and tryed method to hypo, And sense these were the only ones that got me going and placing with hypo I tend to believe him if he says the shit turns into yellow monkeys after midnight I would get the yellow monkey net out and catch me one... The end result is directly connected to the effort applied
	Jacked (Ancient Alchemist Delux) 09-24-01 03:20 No 216621		Re: Hypo question	Bookmark Reply
			as Pfed IS often reduced during RP/I, and sometimes during Hypo as well. Now bear with me here, cause He learned his chem by watching reruns of Bill Nye, Science Guy for hours and days on end, But as I understand it: Overreduction Is the result of overly harsh reaction conditions. When I said the HI was free to leave, I didnt mean it HAD to go. If the temp is high enough, and the PH LOW enough, then the HI will sometimes take a ringside seat, reducing the phenol ring structure and producing an irritant molecule, or cleaving the alkyl chain to produce methylamine/phenylpropanone. this can also occur when salting out your product, if you go to low on the PH. There IS a basis for increased reaction times, and it has to do with the fact that when you increase the water content, you are pushing your equilibrium towards the left, and when you get closer to equilibrium, your reaction slows down, HI being produced less frequently, with more heat required to push --->. Water is known as the great leveler because of its effect on PH. a reaction which is flooded with water will still occur, but at a reduced rate.  There are still some diehards running week long refluxes, but mostly it's just us hyperfreeks now. We gotta have everything now, especially our crank. In fact, I'm told that the original hypo run was a 3 day reflux with the 51%, followed by something called "cooldown". I'll be damned if I know about that, except its a 2 day thing. Thats 5 days and you still got a freebase....yawn. Dwafer this is for you, I know it's off topic but I'll see if you are reading the sub intrest in your field. about naptha: Its realy a poor solvent for M. That is why you have to heat it when doing your AB. The M-oil wants to come to the top, being lighter, and your gonna let it. When fresh from the can, Colemans appears blue. As it becomes saturated with M, the refraction changes and it then takes on a green tint. With a little practice you can estimate the amount of speed in it just by the color. Another trick is to look at the top of the fuel. You will see a thick line which gets thicker as the dope is absorbed. Old timers will tell you that line IS the dope. That is NOT TECHNICALLY CORRECT, it's just refraction, but you CAN treat it like the truth, in practice. You begin to recognize the look of saturated fuel, and if ya ran outta PH paper in the 80's, but we can still observe the obvious. As you add the lye, you will begin to see thousands of tiny bubbles eluting from the water layer. That is a sign that there's still speed down there. Swirling the container is helpful, but it takes TIME for your stuff to get into the fuel, no way around that. So you separated your stuff out, your ready to gas that fuel and do a line... STOP! let that fuel cool down. As it does, the saturation point drops and the methoil will start trying to break out at the top. give it 15 or 20 minutes to cool. Bad cooks with no patience stick it in the freezer, to unfortunate result, so HAVE PATIENCE Now its on to the gassing. Salt/sufuric works, but NOT WITH COLEMANS! the colemans has a bad habit of holding on to that strong gas long enough for it to burn your meth (the ring reduction we were talking about). Keep at it and instead of nice white powder you have gummy, acrid, gooey speedballs. The foil gas, however, is dilute. Spraying it about 1cm above the surface allows the excess gas to escape. This leaves a nice white layer of precipitate, which thickens, as the solution below releases more freebase, till it is no longer supported by the viscosity. At a certain point you will see this layer drop to the bottom, a signal to filter. Real slingers dont mess with drying salts. They taint your gas, and they add another element to your setup, which is no good. Travel light, make sure it all fits in a suitcase. And by all means tighten the fuck up.... The end result is directly connected to the effort applied
	Jacked (Ancient Alchemist Delux) 09-24-01 03:27 No 216623		Re: Hypo question	Bookmark Reply
			I'm going to say something right now, FM and MC are one in the same, I knew this from day one of his return. He does not bullshit around and you can take his word strait to the bank including the charmen thread. Thouse of you long timers know exactly what I mean by that.... So due respect is diserving of this enlightenment to the hypo delema... Have faith and tighten the fuck up. Jacked  The end result is directly connected to the effort applied

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