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nbk2000
January 25th, 2003, 05:32 AM
During further research into safe cracking, the use of diamond core drill bits came to my attention.

These are hollow tubes that have an arbor on one end, and are crusted with diamonds on the other.

In use, the coring bit grinds a circular hole through ANY material known to man, be it carbide ceramic...titanium hardplate...anything.

While grinding through the material, though, it generates a LOT of heat. This heat has to be carried away, otherwise the drill bit will "burn", destroying the diamonds and the binder that holds them onto the bit.

The usual means of cooling the bit is to maintain a continuous flow of water on the bit.

While this is easy enough to do while you're working on something in a legit business, it's a little harder to do when drilling into a jewlery store safe in the middle of the night, there not being many water taps (or drains) available for this purpose.

Also, during normal core drilling with water cooling, the water tends to get flung about by the centrifigual action of the spinning drill bit. This is not only messy, but dangerous, since standing in a puddle of water while holding an electric drill is not conducive to long life. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />

So, to alleviate these problems, the idea of a self-contained recirculating cooling system, came to mind.

<img src="http://nbk2000.freeyellow.com/Drill_Shield.jpg" alt=" - " />

A bowl (like a mixing bowl) is affixed to the target, using any needed means, and the edges sealed in a watertight fashion. The bottom has been cut out of the bowl, leaving an open ended hemispherical chamber attached to the target.

The coring bit has a disc (green) attached to it that fits over the arbor, and is held in place by the drill chuck. This disc is just small enough to fit through the open hole of the bowl.

As the hole is drilled, the fluid flows along the coring bit, where it meets with the disc, and is thrown off to impact on the bowl, where it then flows down to be collected.

Two nipples have been attached to the bowl. The one at the top is a spray nozzle that directs the cooling fluid onto the coring bit. The nipple at the bottom, where the fluid collects, to be drained off.

The fluid used could be either straight water or, preferably, ethylene glycol or some other non-toxic/non-flammable/non-conductive fluid.

The fluid is drained off as it collects, pulled through a filter to remove debris, then recirculated back via electric pump, onto the coring bit, in a continuous cycle.

The way that the fluid is kept cool is through a heat exchanger attached to a liquid CO<sub>2</sub> tank, like that used to carbonate sodas. A small flow of CO<sub>2</sub> is continuously released which absorbs the heat from the coolant fluid as it evaporates.

The entire assembly would be fitted onto a small cart, like that used to tote around oxygen tanks, for easy transportation to the scene of the crime.

Because of the near-dry work enviroment that this setup provides for the person using it, the work would progress in a much neater, safer, and possibly faster, manner.

I'm sure someone more mechanically inclined could design a much more compact system that'd slide right over the bit itself.

<small>[ January 25, 2003, 04:33 AM: Message edited by: nbk2000 ]</small>

BoB-
January 25th, 2003, 07:53 AM
What about the possibility of using non flammable gas? Nitrogen, Freon, or similar could be blown onto the the bit through a tiny nozzle. Refrigeration gas's arent cheap though, perhaps you could figure out a way of using CO2 from paintball guns?

nbk2000
January 25th, 2003, 07:59 AM
It has to be a liquid.

The flow of liquid is what carries away the debris that'd other clog up the hole. Also, liquids are much better conductors of heat, and act as lubricanion to increase the effective speed of the corer.

Though a low boiling point liquid could be useful, if it was non-toxic...etc. Then the coring bit could be continuosly immersed in the fluid, with the bit staying at a constant temperature as the fluid boiled off. Though it may take a lot of this fluid to achieve the required cooling...

mrloud
January 25th, 2003, 09:33 AM
A small radiator like one of <a href="http://www.dangerden.com/mall/radiators.asp" target="_blank">these</a> might be just as effective (as carbon dioxide) and reduce the cost of construction. If you were still concerned about the cooling fluid getting too hot, you could rig up a heat exchange with a peltier cooler. You'd have to be careful about freezing the water in your heat exchange though.

<small>[ January 25, 2003, 08:35 AM: Message edited by: mrloud ]</small>

Al Koholic
January 25th, 2003, 11:53 AM
To affix the bowl to the chamber wall, I would say use either a (powerful) magnetic rim that is coated with some silicone sealant so as to provide a tight seal. Barring any gross jolts, it should hold to the door assuming it is made of a ferrous metal/alloy.

If it is not metal, I believe a healthy portion of cyanoacrylate would solve the problem quite nicely and very quickly. This might even be your best bet for speed and strength of hold in any case. A lil acetone will remove the bowl at the end of the operation....leave no evidence after all....except the hole and empty safe!

A liquid like trichloroethylene, IE: non-flammable and a BP around 90 degrees C would be perfect assuming one had adequate ventilation. Without good ventilation, you'll be hard pressed to find something as benign as good 'ole water I believe.

NBK, Im not sure this has to be cart mounted...I think a system of tanks and a pump in a backpack with hoses would be plenty of water.
You could just waltz in, secure the bowl to the target, hook up the coolant feed hose and the drain hose, then turn the pump on (battery or wall socket driven depending on the layout and logistics of the situation) and start drilling...

Edit: Don't you love how right after you press the post button you think of something better?

Anyway, instead of the pump (which would have just been a little aqarium pump in my mind) why not use compressed gas (CO2) to drive the coolant out through the nozzle of the sprayer? This would ensure a good supply of coolant and good removal of the drilled waste. Then if one were to seal the opening in the bowl with a flexible/stretchy but airtight membrane bound to the drill itself the pressure of the input gass and coolant would drive the waste back out of the bowl into a collection tank. You would also have good control of the flow of coolant and could probably administer it in bursts so as to save on the supply. All this would easily fit in a backpack.

<small>[ January 25, 2003, 10:57 AM: Message edited by: Al Koholic ]</small>

Sparky
January 25th, 2003, 12:29 PM
I've seen water cooling systems for cooling people on a hot day. Actually the system was used for those characters at disney land who get really hot under their costume. They use ice as the way to cool the water. My dad asked them why they don't use dry ice or something, and their answer was it's just not worth it. Some numbers here:

The latent heat of vaporization of carbon dioxide (at 't.p.' whatever that is. Found this on <a href="http://www.concoa.com/frames/technical/gases/carbon.htm)" target="_blank">http://www.concoa.com/frames/technical/gases/carbon.htm)</a> is 149.6 BTU/lb. Then, the gas heats up and absorbes more heat, 833J/Kg/oC.

The latent heat of fusion of water is about 143 BTU/lb (334000 J/Kg)(http://www.fireandsafety.eku.edu/FACULTY/RHOP/FSE-360/energy.htm)
Then the specific heat capacity of water is 4286J/Kg/oC, which is quite high. Then if the system overheats and you boil the water you get shitloads of heat dissipation as the latent heat of vaporization of water is over 2.2 million J/Kg (ethylene glycol's is only
854 000J/Kg). This protects your drillbit, but I guess you would have other problems to worry about from the pressure ;-).

As you can see, dry ice and ice have almost the same heat dissipation abilities in terms of their changes of state that would take place, and water is much better afterwards. Not that you would use dry ice in this application, as it would tend to freeze your water. I'm just saying that water is pretty good for cooling stuff. Ethylene glycol wouldn't be as good in at least one respect as it's specific heat capacity is 2450J/Kg/oC.

So anyways, I think pumping water through ice cubes would be an easy and effective cooling system.

Anthony
January 25th, 2003, 01:36 PM
KISS way:

square or rectangular tray 4"+ deep pushed flush against the safe door (if you can get it under the lip of the bottom of the door all the better), drip squirt of a silicon gun along the tray-safe join.

Dump water and a sack of ice into the tray, have crimie use a jug to pour a stream of water onto the drill bit. Water runs down the safe door with swarf, over the silicon joint and into the tray.

Advantages: cheap, very reliable, idiot proof, infinitely variable rate of water application to bit.

Disadavnatges: ideally requires two people, not flash/high tec <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />

Al Koholic
January 25th, 2003, 01:47 PM
And c'mon! Everythings gotta be flashy and high tech!

Energy84
January 25th, 2003, 04:01 PM
If you kept a large volume of coolant flowing over the bit I don't think you'd have to worry about overheating the coolant. If you were still worried about it though I think that just a small radiator would be enough. You wouldn't need anything too big.
Of course, all this depends upon how thick the safe was and how big of a hole you're trying to bore. Don't forget also that you will need filters on the return lines as there will be a fair bit of debris being washed out. You could have an initial coarse screen in the actual bowl (NBK's design) then probably a few line filters in parallel, not in series. This would ensure that if one got clogged, the others would still be there as backup. You might be able to use something along the lines of an oil filter also, but I think that you'd most likely need a bigger pump to provide the suction.

Although all this stuff would potentially work, I don't think that it would be to practical because you'd have to get all this equipment in without being detected. But I suppose it's all just theory right? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />

Edit: I forgot to mention also about the actual coolant. Liquid is obviously the only way to go. There is a special coolant used by machinists that looks sort of like thick cream. It's white with a slight greenish tint to it. It's actually mixed with water at about a 25:1 ratio and protects against rust. I'm not sure about how it affects the B.P. of water, but I'm sure a quick search will bring the stuff up. IIRC it was "Luke's" brand.

Something else that hasn't been mentioned is how to seal the drill bit so that it won't leak. Best option IMHO would be to get a common sized bit that can be matched up to the same size as a bearing seal. Then mount the seal to your bowl and slide the bit through the hole. Seals are usually lined with rubber or felt on the inside.

<small>[ January 25, 2003, 03:10 PM: Message edited by: Energy84 ]</small>

Machiavelli
January 25th, 2003, 10:15 PM
I just got a catalog in front of me with some diamond core drill bits for safe work where they just filled the tubes with a lubricant paste that gets liquid when drilling.

Energy84
January 25th, 2003, 10:55 PM
Machiavelli, what's the paste called? How much does it cost and in how big of a tube does it come in?

I suppose cheap toothpaste could possibly be used also if you could find a really cheap source. Plus, it'd be alot nicer to work with a minty smell then a burnt oil smell in the air :) .

<small>[ January 25, 2003, 10:01 PM: Message edited by: Energy84 ]</small>

nbk2000
January 26th, 2003, 01:42 AM
Mach, you're probably looking at the same page I looked at. Is it pink wax in the center of the bit? That may work as lubricant, but I don't think a bit of wax is going to keep the bit cool. And what about if you have to drill multiple holes? Hmm...

The method I described isnt' THAT complicated. A small pump like that used in your car for spraying windshield wiper fluid onto your windshield would be more than adequate for circulation.

If you used an enclosed poly tank, you could have it filled with crushed dry ice, and circulate the fluid through that (assuming EG). That'd dispense with the CO2 tank and related dead weight.

If you're anywhere near an outlet (likely), than an electric fan blowing air over a small radiator would likely be sufficient. It all depends on the size of the hole and how thick the target is.

Some of you may remember from long ago about a discussion on using electrochemical machining to cut through metals. This involves using a conductive fluid (salt water), a hollow electrode (copper tube), and an electric current (car battery) to "cut" a hole through any electrically conductive material.

For steel, like that used in arty shells, it could drill through at a millimeter a minute, using a car battery. I'm sure with 120 mains available, you'd be able to get a much faster rate.

Well, using the same principle, only with an electric inverter, you could make a device that'd "cut" a hole through steel safes, unattended, while you keep watch for piggies. A spring loaded holder keeps the electrode pipe pressed into the target while an electric pump keeps the filtered electrolyte solution flowing through it.

Perhaps the two (diamond core/electromachining) could be combined to make them faster than the two alone could be.

The good thing about electromachining is that it doesn't leave any tool marks that can be traced to a specific tool or bit.

Energy84
January 26th, 2003, 02:33 AM
Electromachining I believe doesn't require lots of applied pressure. Infact, too much pressure will ruin the process as the two metals would arc and join together. I think I have a book somewhere describing the process. If I can find it tomorrow I'll scan it and post it on the FTP.

Edit: I found the book and scanned the relevant pages. I will be scanning a few more pages out of it later that explain what types of lubricants to use for certain materials/processes.

<a href="ftp://ewf:sd332gf@209.195.155.80/Hosted%20Images/Energy84/Electrical%20Machining%20Processes.pdf" target="_blank">ftp://ewf:sd332gf@209.195.155.80/Hosted%20Images/Energy84/Electrical%20Machining%20Processes.pdf</a>
854KB (Might want to right click and "Save target as...")

<small>[ January 26, 2003, 01:31 PM: Message edited by: Energy84 ]</small>

Energy84
January 26th, 2003, 02:54 PM
Here is a table with regards to cutting fluids.
<a href="ftp://ewf:sd332gf@209.195.155.80/Hosted%20Images/Energy84/Cutting%20Fluids.pdf" target="_blank">ftp://ewf:sd332gf@209.195.155.80/Hosted%20Images/Energy84/Cutting%20Fluids.pdf</a>
70KB

Agent Blak
January 26th, 2003, 05:31 PM
If you were to use technique called peck drilling it would make this far easier. This is where you Go in and out, in and out you would only be advancing 3/8" each peck but every time you pulled out.

It would allow your hole to be filled with fresh coolant.

That would be the ideal method for your bowl method. If you were drilling into the door you could modify a pop bottle or another jug for this.

Also available are other Drill presses that use a magnates to attach to metal surfaces. You could also improvise something using magnetic stands and a hand drill.

There are also CARBIDE, Ceramic, And CBN Tooling to be worht looking into.

vulture
January 26th, 2003, 07:02 PM
Since you're already using an electric drill, why not use it as a pump too? With a few "propellors" attached to the drill bit in a closed sphere it could function as a pump and drill at the same time.
The only problem would be the heat conducted by the drill bit which would also heat up the water in the "pump".

EDIT: To clear things up: the pump sphere should be added to the drill bit as a separate unit in front of the bowl.

<small>[ January 26, 2003, 06:04 PM: Message edited by: vulture ]</small>

nbk2000
January 26th, 2003, 10:45 PM
There are drill powered pumps, but that'd be massive overkill for the purpose it's intended for. An aquarium pump would be more than adequate.

TC is only 1/3rd as hard as diamond, so would be useless, especially against a type of hardplate that I've seen that has industrial diamonds embedded into it. Only a diamond can cut a diamond. Ceramics are brittle, and CBN is exotic (read "expensive") and still not capable of penetrating diamond hardplate.

One advantage that ECM has over drilling is that it generates no heat or vibration, which might trigger relockers or alarms, but these sort of sensors are only found on the more high-end safes.

The setup I described using a car battery doesn't generate enough current to weld the cutting piece to the work. Also, if you maintain a high rate of flow for the electrolyte, that prevents the cutter from coming in contact with the work since the fluid "floats" the piece.

Anyway you do it, it'd be ideal to have it so that the drill (or ECM) is doing the work while you're keeping watch from elsewhere. An automatic feed or advance is possible, but would take a bit of investment.

Such a device would greatly increase your safety since you could penetrate the target, set up the drill, then leave the scene of the crime while it cuts through the safe.

If piggies show up, you're NOT there. :)

If no piggies show up, you come back once the device signals it's penetrated, and collect the loot. :D

<small>[ January 26, 2003, 09:45 PM: Message edited by: nbk2000 ]</small>

nbk2000
January 28th, 2003, 01:51 AM
How to drill through hardplate in a safe.

<a href="http://my.execpc.com/~bergsa/s_swiss.htm" target="_blank">http://my.execpc.com/~bergsa/s_swiss.htm</a>

The site has a lot of interesting pictures of old safes.

German supplier of various tools of the trade.

<a href="http://www.lockpick.de/Bohr_Fraes.htm" target="_blank">http://www.lockpick.de/Bohr_Fraes.htm</a>

Safecrackers Penetration Plus Video's

<a href="http://safecrackers.net/" target="_blank">http://safecrackers.net/</a>

5 tape series cost $725 dollars, but covers:

"...everything from Bank Vault doors to Floor safes to High Security Safes. You will see the equipment to use, and how to get through various barriers.

Complete detail openings and drill points for solenoids, relocks, bolts, and fences. Everything you need to know to open these locks, plus at the end of each segment we are showing you the locks and details."

They even have a RealVideo demo of borescoping a wheel pack. :)

<a href="http://www.safecrackers.net/samples/picwheels.rm" target="_blank">http://www.safecrackers.net/samples/picwheels.rm</a>

<a href="http://www.safecrackers.net/samples/frontview.rm" target="_blank">http://www.safecrackers.net/samples/frontview.rm</a>

<a href="http://www.safecrackers.net/samples/topview.rm" target="_blank">http://www.safecrackers.net/samples/topview.rm</a>

<small>[ January 28, 2003, 03:17 AM: Message edited by: nbk2000 ]</small>

nbk2000
January 30th, 2003, 06:40 AM
I was thinking of other ways that coring bits could be used to attack locks.

In the popular MEDECO brand of lock, the pins and sidebar are protected by small crescents made of hardplate, to prevent them from being drilled.

<img src="http://www.mvmlocks.com/images/med2c.gif" alt=" - " />

Well, if you used a coring bit, it'd eat right through both crescents protecting the vitals of the lock, making it easy to then use a conventional drill bit to drill the cylinder pins to clear the shear line.

The coring bit would need to be just big enough to slip over the cylinder plug that the key goes into. Less than half an inch depth would clear away the hardplate protection, at which time you switch to a regular tungsten carbide bit and drill away. :)

Agent Blak
January 30th, 2003, 03:06 PM
Another option for when you have to deal with hard steel is Change the temper; Aneal it. Heat it up in a spot To till Bright Red. From here you have to options Allow is to it to cool slowly(makes the metal Softer). This will allow you to Dill through the safe with more conventional tooling

The other option is the Heat it up and cooled down so quickly that it makes the steel Harder; and it becomes Brittle; think CO2 Fire extingisher. It is then Struck with A lot force while still quite cold.

There is another option for you Drill in which you do need Pricey Dia. Tooling and a circulation system. This Tequnique can also be Used on glass:

A Pipe of the Desired Dia for the hole is Chosen. This has a piece of dowel in the end in which you will chuck on to. You will Now apply Grinding Compound or abrasive paste; you can even get Diamond Abrasive. The Coppper Pipe is then Put on the area where the Abrasive is and Turned on.

How it works: the copper is a Soft metal and the Abrasive is hard. The Abrasive becomes stuck in the end of the Pipe. when the pipe rotates it cuts circular hole. As it runs you may need to ad a little more pste once in awhile but thats it.

IronMongrel
September 27th, 2006, 11:00 AM
It would be very hard to anneal or quench harden something as big as a safe without creating enormous volumes of either steam or CO2, I think its impractical even on a modest safe, its volume and sheer mass would disipate most of the heat for a long time before you got it red, and quenching wouldn't be rapid for the same reasons.

I use diamond cutters at work on very hard ceramics, I prefer a 36v cordless like this

http://www.hilti.co.uk/holuk/modules/prcat/prca_navigation.jsp?OID=-23846

There are a number of companys that make simple water cooling systems for portable diamond coring, like Armeg, though I'm not sure of the suitability for core drilling of safe locks.

Id be very interested to hear about the results of any experiments with diamond cores on hard metals, but I'm not wasting mine on them, they're too dear.

BIGdaddy
May 15th, 2008, 04:47 PM
A must have for any drilling of safes. Drill point dimensions and instruction's. Enjoy. http://rapidshare.de/files/39092028/safe_drill_point_book.pdf.html