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megalomania
October 7th, 2002, 03:05 PM
ALENGOSVIG1
Moderator
Posts: 766
From: Vancouver, Canada
Registered: NOV 2000
posted January 21, 2001 01:02 AM
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Here is some information on constructiona fume absorber that maccleod emailed to me, i thought you guys might be interested.
supplies:

1.) 1/4 or 3/8th inch I.D. rubber or vinyl tubing

2.) medium-sized tin coffee can

3.) a 5 or 6 inch tall glass jar with lid

4.) glass wool, pet store, aquarium filter supplies

5.) activated charcoal, pet store

Instructions:

1.)cut two discs out of the glass wool by setting the open end of the coffee can on it,trace around the can with a marker.

2.)drill a hole through the side of the can 1/4" from the bottom and make sure it matches the O.D. of your tubing.

3.)Place one of the fiberglass pads at the bottom of the can.

3.)attatch a piece of the tubing to the can through the hole in the side that was previously drilled

4.)slide it in about 3/4" and glue in place with silicone to keep it sealed airtight. you'll want the end of the
tube pushed into the fiberglass pad on the bottom.

5.)Now fill the can 1/2 or 1/3 full of activated charcoal.

6.)place the other fiberglass pad into the can against the charcoal.

7.)drill another hole through the plastic lid of the can and glue a section of tubing
1/2" in.

8.)drill two matching holes in the lid
of the glass jar.

9.)run the tube from the lid of coffee can into one of the holes and glue into place. this tube needs to run all the way down to the bottom of the glass jar when the lid is screwed back on

10.)Connect a 3rd section of tubing to the other hole a 1/4" into the lid. make this one long if you want to vent it out a window.

11.)the hose at the bottom of coffee can now gets connected to your reaction vessel.
run the tube down through the lid .When ready to use, fill the glass jar (not the reaction vessel) about 2/3rd's full of water.

When fumes are created in the reaction vessel,they are forced through the tube into the coffee can.They pass through the
fiberglass and activated charcoal,which cleans up most of the fumes, Then they
pass through the water in the glass jar,cleaning up anything left
over.

This information has been shortened from original format for less typing. Credit is given to maccleod who emailed me this information, i just had to pass it on.

Thanks maccleod!

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Explosives Archive


SofaKing
Frequent Poster
Posts: 392
From: YEAH RIGHT !!
Registered: SEP 2000
posted January 21, 2001 05:16 AM
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I would just like to mention that this is the same design as in the avanced anarchist arsenel ("2 books" post).
Also I think that running the fumes throught the water first would be a better idea and get more use out of the charcoal.

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"ARE YOUR PAPERS IN ORDER" -- Jack Booted Thug


ALENGOSVIG1
Moderator
Posts: 766
From: Vancouver, Canada
Registered: NOV 2000
posted January 21, 2001 02:16 PM
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thats where its from
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Explosives Archive


ALENGOSVIG1
Moderator
Posts: 766
From: Vancouver, Canada
Registered: NOV 2000
posted January 22, 2001 12:17 AM
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I just made one and it works great!
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Explosives Archive


Muffscre's digits
A new voice
Posts: 28
From: surrey,BC Canada
Registered: NOV 2000
posted January 22, 2001 02:04 PM
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If you use a diffuser stone, it will work a lot better.
It's a small blue, white or orange color
it is made form sand stuck together or wood.

The wood makes smaller bubble then the stone.
You can get them at a pet store of $.99 to $1.99 for the stone and up to $10.00 for the wood.
Ask for a air stone for a fish tank.


ALENGOSVIG1
Moderator
Posts: 766
From: Vancouver, Canada
Registered: NOV 2000
posted January 22, 2001 06:59 PM
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hmm..well is it super absorbant like the carbon?.not only does carbon clean it..but it absorbs it..ill have to look into the sand thing..
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Explosives Archive


Muffscre's digits
A new voice
Posts: 28
From: surrey,BC Canada
Registered: NOV 2000
posted January 23, 2001 04:30 PM
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ooo ya the stone will get cloged if it's smoke
if you put the carbon is a tube it will work beter 4.5cm or 2" is good


ALENGOSVIG1
Moderator
Posts: 766
From: Vancouver, Canada
Registered: NOV 2000
posted January 23, 2001 04:48 PM
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yes, but the larger containers, tubes, etc u use, the more pressure that has to be built up, even PA probally wont make its way throung if ur using large tubes and containers, Mabe attaching a pump to the reaction vessle would be a good idea, it could also cool down the reaction.

Marvin
October 8th, 2002, 10:44 PM
I'm not convinced activated charcol can be used well for general waste gas scrubbing. It will work well at the start for 'odeur' chemicals, but is likly to quickly get saturated. I think you would end up having the throw away very large amounts of the stuff on a regular basis. Waste gas scrubbers really need to be constructed for a specific set of waste gasses. Water is often useful, but you often dont want water vapour going back into the equipment, and this will quickly saturate your moisure guard. How much scrubbing you need to do, depends on where its going, eg a window, up the chimney, where you live, and what reaction you are doing. Since this topic is from the archive, how well did it work long term ALENGOSVIG? Are you still using it?