Lights Out!

[nbk2000]

One of the favorite tricks of the piggies is to take out the lights before they do a raid. They do this by either having the utilities company turn off the power, or by shooting out the lights, prior to making their move.

However, criminals don't have the luxury of having the utility company turn off the streetlights prior to doing a job. Neither is is advisable to shoot out the lights. Even if you're using a suppressed weapon to do so, there's still going to be the noise of the glass shattering.

Also, in some high-crime areas, the lights are protected by bulletproof glass, making anything less than a rifle useless in taking out the lights, requiring you to either ditch a perfectly good weapon, or keep incriminating evidence around.

So, to obviate these problems, I've come up with a very simple solution...a hood.

http://nbk2000.freeyellow.com/Streetlight_WM.jpg

A tube of thick denim is connected to a large plastic ring to form a hood, which is slipped over a streetlight, using an extendable fiberglass (so you don't get electrocuted) pole available at painting suppliers. The end of the hood has a bit of rope with a large knot on the end. This allows you to hook it so you can pull it off when you're done. :)

No noise, simple as piss to do and, once removed, no evidence of anything having been done to the light.

This is so stupifyingly simple of an idea, yet no one has thought it up till me...I'm such a genius! *pats self on back* :D

Poles will allow you to reach almost any street light, and most lights on the sides of buildings. The wall-mounted lights would need a different frame, possibly magnetic, but thems the breaks. You might not be able to reach lights like those found in parking lots, but hey, who's doing anything in a parking lot, eh? ;)

Use would be dictated by the need to prevent being observed, while still having your own illumination means on hand. Covering a few lights along a residential street would put it in total darkness, prior to a raid/hit/robbery, reducing possible witnesses and hampering any police response.

Covering a light behind a business would allow you to break in unobserved. And the lack of lighting would greatly reduce any CCTV's effectiveness in recording your activities. :)

It'd be assumed that you'd be prepared to maximize your darkness advantage by having NVD's.

If you were doing a meet somewhere, you may want to have a cord attached to the hood so you could pull it off to light up someone if you needed to, like if they got stupid. The sudden presence of light would allow you to more accurately target them while they're shocked by the sudden lack of protective darkness.

[GibboNet]

Do they have street lights in LegoCAD too ?

This is a great idea, but what are you going to do when someone sees you put the light out of action in the first place ? To prevent being ID'd, you have to wear a balaclava, (as per illustration), hence much more 'suspicious activity' than if you just found a spot with no lights working to do your deal.

I assume tho this is more for situations where you have already chosen your spot, and just need to set the scene a bit better. Being so quiet, I assume when everyone is asleep (2-4am say) there would be little problem, but I don't know why you'd want to cover them when there are already no people around. At least it stops anyone seeing what comes next, which could be far more suspicious.

I would always have a cord attatched, but tied loosely (slipknot) around the post, to be easily accesible to yourself, but no one who didn't know about it.

How light proof is denim ? It may need 2 (or more) layers. I never imagined you on a sewing machine either..... :p

In most urban areas, NVD's wouldn't be necessary, as there is enough ambient light, if not moonlight, to give enough illumination for your needs. People lookig outside through windows would be 'night blind' thanks to being inside in bright light, and not having time to adjust.

I would think a Night Vision eyepiece (monocular ?) would be good, as it's not as cumbersome, and you can switch between it an normal vision quickly, though it does require the use of a hand, which could be more useful doing someting else.

I think it may be more trouble than it's worth, but an excellent idea to keep tucked away for the occasion when it may be a perfect solution.

NBK, are these threads testing for your DVD ? I assume you're looking for feedback for a reason such as that.

[vulture]

Most streetlights get insanely hot, proof being the swarm of musquitos flying around it in the summer. Since they can easily dissipate heat, the manufacturers don't really care about the temperature they reach. A streetlight of a few hundred watt which has been on for some hours could easily melt your hood.

[Arthis]

Without using a kevlar hood, maybe a simple fabric would be enough, in case just damp it. And street light attract mosquitos due to the light too. So maybe this would be alright. Just try to climb on one to see ;).

Electrocution should not be a problem. If you still need to prevent yourself from anything bad, normally it's isolated as otherwise, a simple rain would destroy it: you don't put your hood onto the bulb but on the whole street light.

[Tuatara]

Heat will definitely be a big problem. All that light you are blocking will also get converted to heat.

[kingspaz]

could soak the material in KCl solution before use. allow it to dry first though otherwise the risk of electricution could be greater.

[vulture]

Musquitos are attracted to light because during the evolution light meant there was a heatsource related to it. Also, musquitos don't see very well. The main method they use to detect their "prey" is infrared radiation and carbondioxide emission.
Furthermore they need heat to survive as they are cold blooded animals.

[nbk2000]

No, they don't have streetlights in LegoCAD.

I'm assuming that a person has the good sense to either hood the lights when no one is looking (who's watching at 2AM?), or to do so when the benefits of the darkness outweighs the risk of being seen doing so.

Besides, nothing says you have to do anything the moment you've finished hooding the lights. You can hood them at 1, and come back at 3, by which time anyone who'd have noticed would have called the cops who would have shown up if they were going to. If no piggies show up after a few hours...:)


...I don't know why you'd want to cover them when there are already no people around. At least it stops anyone seeing what comes next, which could be far more suspicious.


Exactly. No one may be up in a residentail neighborhood at 2AM to see you put the hoods on, but if bullets start flying, everyone IS going to be up and looking, which is when having blacked out the immediate area would have been a good idea.

And, if nothing dramatic goes down, you remove the hoods and no one is the wiser to what might have been. :)

Jean denim would be more than adequate, since the goal is meet by simply reducing the light that reaches the street dramatically, even if the glow of the streetlight itself is still visible.

Remember, the hood is an open ended tube attached to a rigid hoop, so heat can escape out the open end. But soaking in a saturated borax solution, and letting it dry, would prevent burning. Also, the lights can't get too hot if birds sit on top of them. :)

While then light fixtures themselves aren't electrically "live", they're often mounted on telephone poles alongside powerlines that ARE, hence you must RTPB "Plan for failure" and assume that you'll touch one of those lines while putting up/taking down one of the hoods. Would be rather embarassing to have succeeded in a job, only to smoke yourself via powerline, while retrieving a hood. :(

You'd always want to have NVD available, as well as visible light sources, even if there is ambient skyglow, because there are plenty of places in a city that are pitch-black. RTPB "Better to have it and not need it...".

Another thought along these lines was to mount one of those multi-million candlepower spotlights on the pole, with a small cover, and the whole thing is placed over the light sensor of the streetlight. You'd turn on the spotlight by a switch on your end of the pole once the light was over the sensor, which would trick the streetlight into thinking it was day, turning it off.

Once off, it'd take the light at least 5 minutes to cycle back on, giving you plenty of time to get in, with the lights coming back on by themselves, without you having to dick around with hood retrieval.

This is just one tool of many that a crim would have in his bag. If you only have a hammer, then every problem tends to look like a nail. But, if you have a top-of-the-line Snap-On toolset, then you can use the proper tool for the job at hand. ;)

Not everything I post here on the Forum will end up on the DVD, and vice-versa, though some things will.

[vulture]

Wouldn't it be nice to attach a flash charge to the hood on a rope of ca 1m so it's clear from the streetlight. When something bad goes down, you look the other way, set off the flash charge and run. Enemies would be blinded and the hood destroyed.

[priapo]

Well, I don't really know how do street lights are in the US, but here they use to have a small door in the base (when they are the floor-planted ones), if you open it you'll find some circuitry then, wouldn't it be easier to desable the circuit directly from the street light. Btw, the key needed to open them is a straight triangular one but an smaller allen key will do the job as well.
Wall street lights use to have that circuitry in a box planted on the wall and it is shared by some street lights, I'll take some photographs tohingt if you are interested in it. These ones are only locked by an easy to remove metal clip.

It only takes a couple os seconds to disable each one, and the same to light it again (I am not counting the time it takes them to bright at full strength).

Anyways your idea could be quite suitable for disabling street cameras.

Sorry again for my chunky English

[Jhonbus]

The heating effect would probably be beneficial to the idea as HPS street lights have thermal cutouts in them. So once it heats up a bit, the light will turn off completely.

[Agent Blak]

Someone mentioned denim melting... Denim is a natural fabric(Cotton) So it won't melt. only Synthetics fabric(Plastics) Melts.

An option for the hoods would be holding them in placewith a type of bow(Single Loop). put a ring on the end that you can pull to undue the bow. After the job is done you simply use a pol with a hook to snag the ring.

I would think soking it in a Salt Brine, or Fiber Glass Resin would be Ideal. This would assist in the Flame Retarding Aspects of things...


But is it really necessary to Take the hoods down after..? The way I am looking at it is: You get in Do what you have to do with out a nich in the plan... Why stick around to get caught taking down the Hoods?

But maybe I missed the point... not having anyone know you were there.

Another option would be paying some Punk kid a Deuce($20) to shootout a street light in the area the week before(have him shoot it out on the thursday pull the job sunday). City crews oud take a while to get around to repair that.

[nbk2000]

Of course you'd want to take the hoods down when you're done, if at all possible. This way, the cops have no clue as to how the lights were put out without leaving a mark, nor will you be leaving behind evidence that could connect you to other jobs. If you leave the hoods, then you're leaving a "signature", thus creating a pattern (RTPB) that'll connect the various jobs together.

You could pay some punk kid to shoot out the lights. And the same punk kid will rat on you to the cops first chance he gets, to either save his ass, or get a reward, if you did something high-valued enough, which I'm assuming no one is going to go to these lengths just to steal a bike. ;)

[A-BOMB]

What about a can of black spray paint on a pole tree cutter that it has the pull string branch cutter, attach the can spray the light and the heat will make the paint dry faster.

[vulture]

Then you would also need one version with paint thinner to spray off the paint afterwards...

That better be something highly corrosive, because spraying is not going to do a good job of removing a hot and dry paint layer.

[nbk2000]

The paint on a stick idea was the first thing I thought of, having seen something similiar in a monkey-wrenching book, but then the problems became too numerous.

First, you can't remove the paint, thus leaving evidence of tampering, and that means something suspicious happened, even if they don't know right away what that something might be. But be sure they'll keep looking till they figure it out.

Second, what's if it's raining? Paint doesn't stick to wet glass.

Third, spray mist will fall down upon your head, leaving microscopic traces of paint on you, linking you to the crime scene. BAD.

Forth, spray paint is often flammable. Nothing like creating a big fireball in the middle of the night while trying to be sneaky to blow your plan all to hell, eh? :D

A lot of thought has gone into this, and heavy denim hoods are the best thing so far...cheap, easy, no traces, silent, removable, etc. :)

I also removed that silly suggestion about blowing up a sub-station. :rolleyes: Geez...like THAT isn't going to attract every cop and fed for a hundred mile radius, to search for the "terrorist" who did it, meaning major pig heat on what would have otherwise been just another burglary.

[Agent Blak]

Blowing a substation would attract attention. knocking out the power doesn't have to involve an explosion. There are power outages for little or next no reason fairly often.

Being able to knock out the power to a city block would not seem that out of the ordinary... especially at night, very few would notice.

Go in do what ever it is you want to do get out and put the power on.



NBK2000,

Have you recieved my recent Emails? Plz Email me if not...

[kingspaz]

Agent Blak, --> http://www.roguesci.org/theforum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2723

[mrloud]

I don't think you'll need a multi-million candlepower spotty to trigger the daylight sensor. My 2 D cell maglite does the trick nicely on some of the roadside power distribution boxes around here.

The advantage of tripping the daylight sensor is that you'll instantly take out a whole street load of lights.

[Arthis]

Unfortunately, there aren't many light detection systems to switch on or off the lights. It should be more widely used, as it allows energy economies, but it's not. In France at least.

MrLoud, your solution is best if possible, anyway you need to be prepaired if you can't do it.

[Jacks Complete]

This may sound stupid, but you can try it. Kick the streetlight. It may well go out!

Kids do it all the time round where I used to live. The light just goes out, then kicks back in about five minutes later.

The hood idea is a good one. It would work for cameras and PIRs too. Though anyone looking would know something was up straight away.

It will be very difficult to actually do this, though. You will need a 15ft + long pole for most lights, and the shear weight of the denim will bend a light pole, plus you need a way to keep the mouth open and the tail extended. Basic tests have been found to be lacking, and we used pretty heavy steel wire, about like you would get on a steel wire coathanger, and a mop handle. We tried it on a 12ft high light and it was really, really hard to get the bag over the length of the light. It kept twisting, and, even though the wire was quite stiff, it just didn't want to play. The small amount of wind made it even harder!

In all, it took about 25 minutes to "bag" and repeat. It was a real bitch. I think a 30ft pole is going to be impossible. YMMV.

[Haggis]

I was going to post the same thing that Jack's Complete did. The streetlights in my neighborhood also go out when kicked. I've only been able to do it on metal ones however. I've found it best to kick right about where your hip is. It's a good place to get a good kick on it to disturb the sensor, and good for you so you do not lose too much balance. In my location, the lights only go out for about 45 seconds. A good, solid kick with your boot heel is usally what is needed to knock one out.

As has happened to me on two occasions, the plastic guard that goes around the light will fall, and will make a large noise and possibly shattering when it hits the ground. If it is plastic, it will be a generally good idea to attempt to catch it before it falls. You usually have less than a second, but it is worth it, and has been done.

One idea I had for using this technique, seeing as it would be difficult to use it in a situation longer than 45 seconds, would be in a chase. Say someone is pursuing you, it would be effective to run towards the light, jump into the air, and kick the pole. In the sudden confusion of the light suddenly dissapearing, it would be easier now for you to cut either direction and head off.

The kicking manueuver is possible, and easy once you get the hang of it. Just practive the technique for a while, and you will get a feel for it.

[xyz]

Yeah, kicking a streetlight will cause it to turn off ( the ones where I live stay off for about 30mins when kicked). I think this is to shut off the power in case a car hits the lamp post (avoiding the chance of the car becoming electrified), or if the lamp post is knocked over (exposing the wiring to possible rain etc.).

The only trouble is that they usually require a pretty solid kick to make them turn off, and with most streetlights having metal poles, it can make quite a bit of noise. One of my (less intelligent) friends once got a yelling-at by some angry homeowner when they heard the noise and walked out to see him booting the streetlight in an attempt to make it go off (he can't kick very hard and the streetlight refused to turn off).

If you are going for a quick way to kill the lights, a kick may be all that is needed, but for silence, killing the power or using a denim hood is probably the better way to go.

[Jacks Complete]

Perhaps a hit with something like a "dead hit" mallet would work?

If not, scale it up a bit. A sledgehammer and a sound deadening blanket might be just right. That would stop the ringing vibration, I guess.

Before anyone says anything, a sledgehammer is more use than a bargepole, and more easily explained!

[IDTB]

I believe the hood would work great as long as it didn't include a residential area. I don't know about other people, but if a street light goes out(or on) during the night I wake and take notice. I'd recommend whatever being done to the street light be done while it's off, as to not show a sudden change, drawing any attention. Personally the hood idea seems alittle silly. If I were to be thinking of away to shut them off it'd either be by electrical means or substance means. The worry of leaving evidence shouldn't be a problem. Eventually people will be alerted to the crime.. Creating a pattern shouldn't be of a worry either(to me). Showing a pattern and having a pattern should be one in the same. I wouldn't have a pattern, period.

Gotta love the illustrations NBK2000. They a;ways " a lil' sumfin' sumfin' " to your genius posts. ;)

[Haggis]

I neglected to note it up there, but a rubber mallet will work as well. The one I used was a 3 pounder. You must strike it quite hard, and the mallet bounces back towards you, but once you get the feel for using it, it is quite simple. The only advantages are that you can get up higher towards the lamp, so you have a better chance of popping the thing, and your leg won't get tired if you do numerous ones.

[xyz]

The only advantages are that you can get up higher towards the lamp, so you have a better chance of popping the thing, and your leg won't get tired if you do numerous ones.

What do you mean by "popping the thing"? And why would you want to reach up higher? I thought that the sensor for these was in the bottom because that's where a car would hit it.

[nbk2000]

Interesting, that, about the lights going out when hit. However, that won't work with lights mounted on wood utility poles, nor concrete poles, as are common around my area.

A "Dead Blow" hammer is what you're referring to. I don't know if they make them in sledgehammer size, but I'm sure someone somewhere does. Even so it'd not be silent to slam a hollow metal pipe with one...just quieter.

If one knew what the sensor was that tripped of the lights, it might be possible to target it directly, by vibration/shock/sound/etc, in a quiet and stealthy manner. If the lights stay out for under a minute, that's not really helpful, though a half-hour blackout would be much more useful. :)

As for the pole and hood...the poles I'm talking of collapse to under 8' in length and are commonly used for painting. I doubt a cop would think anything sus' about an extendable pole at 3AM, especially if it was found in the back of a pickup along with some paint cans, rollerbrushes, and denim tool sacks ;) when compared to a burglar tool like a sledgehammer...especially in a commercial district.

The wire you're using for your hoods is far too flimsy. I'm talking about steel hoops found at the hardware store. Think of a length of steel rod turned into a circle and the ends welded together. That's what I'm talking about. You can barely flex them, let alone twist them up.

Silly, eh? Humph...genius is so rarely recognized in its own time. :p

[Haggis]

I use the word 'popping' as a general purpose word for getting the job done, and the like. I liked the term 'popping a lock' so I carried it over to 'popping a det' and it generally means, for me, doing it, whatever it is.

At least around here, the sensor is up top, and only trips well when the top has a jolt. It feels like you have to 'knock' the filiment out, as from a sharp motion. It works better for me the higher up you hit it because you are closer to the sensor, and you have better 'leverage' on the pole.

Another technique is to find the main sensor for the street. Sometimes the pole will have an individual sensor, which would be on top of the light, and other times an entire street will light up when one sensor is tripped. This one sensor for the whole block is usually up on a bit on the pole on a (usually) green box. I've heard stories of guys at college campuses finding the sensor and rigging a cheap flashlight up there. * Poof* out go the lights.

[Jacks Complete]

Here's an idea.

If it is a light sensor, you could use a cheap laser diode to beam ten suns into it. This would be barely visible, too, and silent.

NBK2000,

yes it is a good idea, but the sledge hammer wouldn't be amiss in a truck full of tools, either, and it is dual use, as it opens doors too.

I wasn't thinking of much longer than 8', as a bargepole is about 10' long. Mind you, I wasn't thinking of the truck, either.

Also, I don't think we have wooden poled lights in the UK, except the odd very rare one. Even concrete ones have been mostly replaced with standard grey steel... Must be nice to have the variety!

[IDTB]

Around here(new england) the street lights are mounted on steel poles, but on side streets and whatnot they're actually on the telephone poles. When you people say wooden polls are you refering to 'wooden poles' or the telephone poles?

[AsylumSeaker]

All the streetlights around here are mounted on telephone poles and have thick plastic covers so we can't break them with rocks anymore. This hood idea seems like it would work but also seems a bit impractical. I think I would rather just hide in the open lights. Noone expects it.

[warren]

If it is in a very dark area and the only source of light is the street light then when you put it out how are you supposed to see? You should definately add some fishing line to it and have it laying on the ground with a little piece of tape on the end (So you can see it) and well your running by pull it off and run with it or drive away with it.

[blindreeper]

My friends and I have proven that Australian street lights arn't all that shatter proof after all. A couple good shots with a sling shot and they cover was gone. I agree the hood idea seems impractical. If you have to flee the job undesireably the hoods will still be there for pigs to investigate. Then any futher jobs with hoods they will know its the same guy = bad.

[DimmuJesus]

Regarding the daylight sensors, how long will that keep them off? Wouldn't they sense darkness and turn back on as soon as you remove the beam of light from them? I don't think it would be practical to leave a light directed at the sensor since the point is to eliminate the light. Unless of course the sensor is in a different location, like the end of the block.

The though of having to flee in a hurry and having the hoods still up does seem like quite a concern. But isn't this already a concern with any tools one would use to pull off a crime? Maybe you could perhaps have a line attached from the hood to your vehicle in such a manner that if you drive off in a hurry it would pull down. But then again it looks a little suspicious driving down the street dragging anything. Maybe using automatic winding fishing line? I believe I've seen fishing poles that are powered to automatically bring in the lure.

[xyz]

Dimmujesus, light has to be constantly shining on the sensor for the street lights to remain off.

You simply put the torch right up against the sensor so that no light escapes (like when you put a torch bulb end down on the floor).

[warren]

There is still the propblem of the hood melting. Another thing is if the light is out the houses around the light would be curious and look out there window to see what is wrong with the street light, they will do so and find a hood attached onto it, now most of them would just shrug it off and not think of it but there is bound to be a soccer mom to call the company or come outside and have a close up look at it find the string and pull it (causing the hood to some off) then your cover would be blown in the middle of the job. Just a thought.

[lager lad]

What if you line the inside of the hood with a reflective surface (aluminum foil or those shiny emergency blankets?) and slipped it on so far that the light from the light itself triggered the daylight sensor, assuming there's one on the top?

[john_smith]

What's wrong with simply cutting the wires? The metal lamp poles in my area have a "service hatch" that's fixed only by two #7 hex bolts. OTOH, I've heard somewhere that the line current is monitored and if it drops too low the company will send a crew to investigate. Can anyone confirm this?

[DimmuJesus]

I don't think there is a fire hazard to the denim. However a Kevlar or fire retardant material could be improvised if one sees the need.
As for what's wrong with just cutting the wires, I believe the point of the hood is to be able to remove evidence of tampering. Isn't there also a huge risk of getting shocked if you do this anyway?

[Sparky]

Cutting the wires is not a good idea for said reasons (electrocution, leaving traces and possible investigation of power problem). Plus unscrewing the thing and all that. Might as well just smash the light if you're gonna do that. For this, besides a slingshot maybe a pellet gun or pumped up bb gun would be good if there is a steel cage on the light to aim around (do they ever bother with those?). Or perhaps a (possibly pumped up) paintball gun shooting steel balls. At least then they may just think it was some kids screwing around.

Certainly leaving evidence behind is a hard thing to get around. Of course one would have to make sure that if stuff did get left it wouldn't give any help. It's possible that after one had to flee the scene in such a way the hood idea would be something you just can't use any more. I think IDTB is right though, if you really want to not leave remenants of a pattern you simply can't have one - or at least in this example. The Man will probably rather quickly establish that the lights all go off before all these crimes happen, no matter which method is used. Maybe that's too little to worry about.

I think the best that one can do with the hoods is to have them easy to take down, which is rather easy. Just attach a small rope to the tip of the hood, and pull on it to take the hood off. Tie the end off with a quick bow above head level, to the pole, to avoid a dangling rope which a passerby might decide to yank on. As long as there is nothing to catch the hoop or denim then it should slide right off when needed.

If only you could find a spray paint that degraded, or falls off within 24 hours or so (maybe even an hour). Might be possible, for example the adhesive could oxidize over time(especially since the lamp makes it warm). Once you have your special paint you can buy portable aerosol cans that will spray whatever you want. Then attach this to a pole and spray away.

BTW: I just had a funny, if impractical, idea. Make the denim (cotton) hoods (maybe paint them for extra opacity). But first nitrate the cotton enough so that it burns quietly and sort of quickly (not violently). Then have a small little cheap electric timer to light them in half an hour (or whatever). You can disable the electric timer if all goes well :). The street lights are sodium so probably not hot enough to light them (?). If you could get NC into a flexible sheet and use that instead of denim, even better (except for plausible deniability).

[xyz]

The streetlights probably would get hot enough, NC ignites at a very low temperature, something like 150°C IIRC.

[atlas#11]

o.k. correct me if i am wrong but microwaves are reflected by metalic surfaces, if you kney about how far away from the bulb you were then you could use a magnatron and a concave metalic surface(old sat tv dish, ect...) and figure the math so the beam of microwaves focused within about 6-12" you would essentaly be firing a large ammount of energy in to a thin tungsten filament. this should fry it. wright? power inverters are easy to come buy and you can go to good will and get an old microwave oven for next to nothing and a car batery and inverter shouldn't be too hard for you resoursfull fellows. I will try this whenever i get an old microwave oven. any thoughts?

-------------

These are your last posts in lower case which I'm going to approve. I warned you before. All further ones will be deleted without notice.

Rhadon

O.K. Sorry i guess i didn't notice that last time.

[nbk2000]

I've got a new toy...:D

Pictures to come shortly.

[Skean Dhu]

Atlas, the standard 100 watt variety anyways, reacts to microwaves by a plasma of sorts being formed when the electrons in the low pressure inert gas inside the light bulb become extremely "excited". After aproximately 25 seconds the plasma melts the glass and atmospheric(sp?) pressure impoldes the bulb resulting in shards of glass going everywhere.
Or atleast thats what I think happens, I cold be wrong.

The first 24 seconds are full of crazy colors though.

[nbk2000]

It's amazing, the things that fall off of utility trucks. ;)

It gets to almost 40' fully extended.