Acetone peroxide - special instructions?

[c_mass]

Hi all. I have recently gotten a copy of the Makeshift Arsenal and i found a recipe for acetone peroxide. It details the quantities of the ingredients, but it doesnt say whether there are any special instruction for a) mixing the chemicals, or b) storing them, It does say that the product is shock, heat and friction sensitive, so is the best oplace to store it afterwards in the fridge? what about if i am transporting it to the site? what kind of friciton will set it off, liek if i am packing it into a case? If someone can tell me these things (sorry for asking so many questions on a firs tpost) please let me know

thanks all

[NoltaiR]

First post is a new topic.. about something that we talk about so very often. Which leads me to believe that either he didn't wait a while before posting, or search engines are his enemy. Either way the mods will probably waste no time in getting revenge.

On a brighter note, however, I usually transport mine while damp.. less chance of it going off. Or sometimes I will bring the unfiltered precipitate and all with me and then filter/dry it at the site. It really depends on how good you are at making it and what your final ratio of dimeric to trimeric is. As for chem ratios, at least try and do a search, most everyone around here has made a batch of AP at one time or another so just about every detail has been discussed. And just for your sake about the friction question, just try to be as safe with it as possible.. the people around here that make it very often know most about how much to pack it, as for someone like me who makes only 75g for every 6 months or more, should probably rely on the 'better safe than sorry' precept.

What's that coming this way? NBK? Sounds like he is probably not to happy.. I am out of here... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />

<small>[ March 13, 2002, 08:20 AM: Message edited by: NoltaiR ]</small>

[DBSP]

Oh dear! :p

Is the waiting period function still disabled?

[UAC labs]

In certain texts about AP it notes that when the crystals of AP are stored in a closed container it will crystalize into a super-unstable form that could explode at the touch even if damp!!!! What super-unstable form is that?

[Pu239 Stuchtiger]

The form of dangerously large crystals, which may detonate when stressed.

[nbk2000]

The rule is to NOT make your first post a new topic. This is because the vast majority of newbies ask/say the lamest things imaginable.

But we do occasionally get someone who knows what they're talking about so they're the exceptions.

YOU are not one of these people.

But, since you did ask a reasonable question about safety, which shows your willing to learn and are concerned about such things, and even got it in the proper section, you won't get deleted.

However, you're on "probation" which means you can continue posting in other peoples topics, but may not post a new topic yourself till you get at least 30 replies in other topics. And "me too/that's right/uh huh" etc. DON'T count as replies either.

[da man]

I think the super unstable form that crystalises after a while when not submerged under water is the monomer form of acetone peroxide, the trimer being most stable, then the dimer and then the very unstable monomer. If storing acetone peroxide (never store for more than 2-3 weeks) submerge it under water, this stops the monomer from forming, also i assume you know about washing it with bi-carb of soda?

[Yikes]

Now don't flame me immediately:

Wouldn't it be a nice idea to have a 'newbee section' here, so newbees can post their lame remarks there, and bother noone that doesn't want to be bothered?

(Hey...is is good friday today...just wanted to be nice.)

[xoo1246]

There is a newbie(/kewl) section at <a href="http://www.bombchock.com" target="_blank">www.bombchock.com</a> go there if you enjoy reading stupid comments from ignorant people.

<small>[ March 29, 2002, 08:50 PM: Message edited by: xoo1246 ]</small>

[Pu239 Stuchtiger]

Er, that's <a href="http://www.bombshock.com" target="_blank">www.bombshock.com</a>

[NoltaiR]

Alright I haven't been online in a week but finally I am back.. Anyways one of the experiments that went on during my 'down time' was to test whether or not the idea of using '10 times as much of 3% H2O2'. The ratio was 1.8L 3% H2O2:350mL acetone:80mL 94% H2SO4. Well its been roughly 4 full days and no reaction has taken place at all. (So I don't suggest anyone else try this unless they think they have enough patience to possibly 'wait it out').

Also I tried boiling another 1.8L down to 90mL (thats about 5% of the original volume) and then made a mix of the 90mL H2O2:180mL acetone:10mL H2SO4... and after 9 hours I have approximately 80g AP (when damp).. and when compared to the old lab grade 28% that I used to use when back in highschool.. I would say that my boiled down H2O2 is about 30-40% pure.

Out of my AP that I made, I made 40g into one rubber cement/AP charge which is almost done drying and ready to use (the rubber cement seems ot speed up the drying speed greatly no to mention it greatly increases the density). The other 40g is going to be dried pure (and it is much farther behind on drying than the rubber cement AP) and will be used in a APPA (acetone peroxide/picric acid) charge.

Anyways as far as safety goes, it is always better not to ever store it for more than a day or two.. just make it as needed. I never store mine in containers so I wouldn't be able to say anything about crystallization.. and for the time that I do have it 'stored' (which is never more than a few days), I just leave it in an open container.

[Mr Cool]

I wouldn't mix TNP with CTAP if I were you, especially since TNP is acidic (more acidic than hydroflouric acid!). Why not just use the CTAP pure in a det to set off pure TNP?

[Yikes]

Well, it's no longer good friday. So please forget my remarks about a newbee section here. (Checked out bombshock....gosh, are they stupid!!)
Instead, I'd opt for not allowing any members of bombshock ever to come here at all.

[kingspaz]

i don't think thats such idea since there are members there who are willing, and want to learn this art. If they come here they will see the light and learn fast.
AP comments:
1. if you have to store it for more than a day, store it in a heap on a piece of paper. this will offer little confinement so if it goes off it will cause less damage. in general, DON'T STORE IT!
2. it is very sensitive! avoid heat sources, make sure after mixing the ingredients it is transfered straight to the fridge. also pre-cooling the ingredients will also help. if you do both these thing you should end up with a high proportion of the trimeric form which is more powerful and less sensitive.
3. don;t make huge amounts of it. scale down the makeshift arsenal ratios by about half. a small amount can cause alot of damage. this isn;t blackpowder or some other crude deflagration explosive, this is true detonation.

<small>[ March 30, 2002, 04:19 PM: Message edited by: kingspaz ]</small>

[megalomania]

I am afraid I must take the dubious credit for saying AP in a closed container forms a 'super unstable' form. I shall endeavor to clarify that henceforth. I was actually paraphrasing a literature source describing how a detonation occurred when a sealed container was opened. The 'super unstable' form is not a chemical form, but a crystalline one, specifically microfine crystalline structures that form in the grooves of a container that possess a rather large surface area. This large surface area contributes to increased friction within the crystals tremendously escalating the probability of a detonation. I should also note that such a condition would only be a matter of concern if the container has been stored for a number of months or years. The volatility of AP is such that 50% of its volume will diminish after 3 months in an open container. Storing it damp, or better still in solution is the best way to go.

It is my belief that a newbie section is not necessary because there is no excuse for stupid questions period. This forum has rules, but I did not just make these things up, they come from proper netiquette. I assume everyone here has gone to school, so you should be familiar with the way life works. I expect people to act no different here than they do in real life. That means you don’t keep raising your hand to interrupt the lecture, if you have a question you can wait till afterwards. As in after you have heard the lecture, and after you have read the material. If you have a complex question and you went to your teacher and asked him to give you all the answers he will steer you towards the library, he isn’t about to do it for you, but he will point the way.
The Forum is a gradeless center of learning where the line between teacher and student is blurred, and where the beginner and the expert sit side by side. We all have things to learn, and we all have things to teach in our own way. I only ask that you conduct yourself here as you would any other gathering. As in life, the questions you ask are not nearly as important as how you ask them. Mastering the art of effectively writing the English language will motivate the knowledgeable to favor you with their information.
A newbie is merely a person who is new to The Forum. Being a newbie does not automatically mean you lack the mental capacity to conduct yourself in a fashion appropriate to our standards, lacking mental capacity altogether does. This is why we exterminate kewls, if they were truly knowledgeable then they would not have posted what they did in the way they did. The people here will either treat these serious topics as serious or casually.
For too long all of the other websites that discuss the same subject matter we do have treated it casually. They have set the tone on the Internet as to what proper decorum is when posting about this material. Established scientific websites have turned up their noses at our subject matter by refusing to discuss it whatsoever, except behind closed and locked doors. The Forum is the sole refuge for the truly interested intellectual seeking serious discourse on serious topics. The other websites that are our unfortunate ‘competition’ are not even in our league. They believe in freedom of opinion above all else, and in that freedom they have become censors. They have censored the truly knowledgeable by giving voice to the fool. Here my friends, here the fool is preyed upon like the slow weak animals they are.

[nbk2000]

Competition? LOPSIE and Queerpier? BWAHAHAHAHAAAA!

They're not competitors, they're herds. They lure away the moronic k3wls who'd otherwise be cluttering our Forum with inane drivel. More power to them.

Indeed, k3wls are moronic grass eaters who graze on the moron weeds that sprout from the droppings of their fellow herdmates. It's no wonder that they never evolve past the 43^r20/\/\3 baking soda and vinegar pressure bottle "bomb".

They mindlessly graze, not seeking out information, but rather, just passively ingest whatever happens to cross their aimless path. They show no discrimination or taste, just mindlessly ingesting, then shitting out, anything that they can fit in their mouths.

Whereas, Forumites are information predators who, not devoting their entire waking existance to mindless grazing, have time to contemplate higher thoughts and evolve. So while I lounge around the watering hole, waiting for my next k3wl meal to saunter by, let us contemplate this fact:

Meat is for predators, vegetables are for prey.

What are YOU? Predator or Prey?

I know my meal preference. :)

<small>[ April 03, 2002, 11:43 PM: Message edited by: nbk2000 ]</small>

[mark]

I never could get that fucking baking soda bomb to work...Any sugestions <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />

[nbk2000]

Oh GOD! Please tell me you're not serious?!

<img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="eek.gif" />

The reason it usually doesn't work is because CO2 is soluable in water. Water which is present in large quantities in the vinegar. Thus the CO2, being absorbed into the water and reducing in volume by 400x or more, doesn't have enough pressure to rupture the bottle.

Now, if you use sulphuric acid instead.... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />

Or aluminum and hydrochloric, aluminum and lye, and several others.

My personal suggestion would be a bottle with gasoline, H2SO4, magnesium (or zinc), and a road flare burning nearby. :D

[Zambosan]

Since we've drifted into the realm of somewhat kewl devices I'll offer a short, fun one myself. Mix yourself some lye and aluminum shavings (or foil) into a large glass jar. Be generous; 1/3 of the jar should do nicely. Fill said jar 2/3 full with gasoline or any light petroleum distillate (acetone, xylene, toluene, etc.) Place in a closed room like a garage, place and light several candles at far corners of the room near the floor. Shut all the doors (except one for your cowardly exit of course), and quickly fill the jar the rest of the way with water. The water will displace the gas, el reaction begins, and the jar starts chugging out dense gasoline vapors that swirl and happily mix with any available oxygen. I'll leave the rest to your imagination and don't let the door hit you in the ass on your way out. :D

Okay, back on topic. (Hey, I didn't start it... :rolleyes: )

[mark]

I was kidding nbk, though Ive tried the device many a time before. Pretty entertaining on a rainy day I might add.

[Rat Bastard]

Competition? LOPSIE and Queerpier? BWAHAHAHAHAAAA!

Errr, I think that should be BOMBSHOCK & <a href="http://members.shaw.ca/raydawg/queerpier!.jpg" target="_blank">QueerPier</a>

Totse is not competition. They are 26 small individual forums, not really concentrated at all on weapons, anarchy & explosives.

However BOMBSHOCK & <a href="http://members.shaw.ca/raydawg/queerpier!.jpg" target="_blank">QueerPier</a>, are concentrated on weapons, anarchy & explosives. AND I have seen ppl at Bombshock call us "lamers & clowns", and people wierdpier having this giant hate toward NBK because of the main guy there being banned.

I have never seen ppl at Totse dis this place.

So leave totse out of the equation and put BOMBSHOCK in.

<small>[ April 03, 2002, 07:11 PM: Message edited by: Rat Bastard ]</small>

[Anthony]

Do you like, work for TOTSE?

[Rat Bastard]

I used to be there, but I evolved instead of staying there, as nbk stated; I know my meal of preference :) . I lurk form place to place. Totse is still pretty fucked up, but It does not even hold a candle to the Kewlness of BOMBSHOCK .

And anthony why do you think that? if I was working for totse, I would be saying shit like "GRAAAA HAHAHA YOU CLOWNS!! S33 /\/\Y 1337 H4X0R B0/\/\B3R sK1LLZ, I 4M TEH BESTEST"
.
.
.
:rolleyes:
---

you can get more info from this site than all of them kewl pages combined and multiplied by 50.

<small>[ April 03, 2002, 08:07 PM: Message edited by: Rat Bastard ]</small>

[mark]

Kiss ass

[nbk2000]

If you've never seen LOPSIE dis' us, then you haven't been looking long enough because most of us here have.

But the ravings of the inmates of the asylums of LOPSIE and Queerpier are just like the annoying buzzings of a gnat in our ears...irrelevant.

Queerpier, especially, has a personal hatred of me since so many of the lames there have been banned by me PERSONALLY that I even have my own personal anti-fan club there! :o :D

It'd be easier to list who at Queerpier HASN'T been banned. :p

But, as I've often said..."if nobody hates you, you're doing something wrong". <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />

[fire stilzchen]

hi ppl,
I do a search but can anyone specify me how much of pressure I can use to press AP in a small plastic cartridge [diameter=1 cm, heigt=4cm]?
It is my second batch of AP, the first only was a small POPFF. But I've read, I must wash the AP more and press it for good results.
Can I use 50gramm of weight for this cartridge or less?

- fire stilzchen -

[edit: do I have to press it wet or dry?]

<small>[ April 04, 2002, 12:57 PM: Message edited by: fire stilzchen ]</small>

[mark]

If you press it wet, it will never dry.

Also, I recentley made a batch of AP yesterday. It was my first time making it in in like 6 months, and it was my first time ever using HCL as the catlysist. The batch was made from 100ml pure acetone, 60ml of 30% hydrogen peroxide, and 15ml of HCL of an unknown purity. Its been in the ice for about 17 hours, and all there is is a tiny amount of AP so far(its like a mist on the bottom.) Is this normal for a HCL reaction? With sulphuric acid, I would have heaps of of glorious AP by now. Thanks for any help I can get.

[DBSP]

What acid have you used before? H2SO4? Personally I've allways used HCl. I've got a batch of AP yielding now as well. I put the reaction vessel in the frezer and chilled the reactants to -4 before adding the acid, this way the temp never ges near 10 degrees. Is there some reson you shuldn't use this method?

Since you can add lots of acid at the same time without to much temp. rise the AP starts forming even before all acid is added and the liguid gets very cloudy at first and then the AP is formed in layers that sink to the bottom as the layer gets to heavy. You can clearly see the layers after half an hour. Right now it has been reacting for about 2 hours and there is a thick layer at the bottom now.
When using my ratios all liquid is consumed and when the reaction is finnished there is a solid cake of AP left in the jar.

[kingspaz]

would a solid cake be a safe idea? or could you simply add water to it to disperse the crystals and break the cake?

[mark]

When i used sulphuric acid I always got suck a cake. Ive got mist now, thanks to using HCL. Maybee I should add more acid?

[mark]

I added 15ml more acid today. Ill check tomorrow to see if anything came of it.

[Zambosan]

Doesn't AP react with metals?

<small>[ July 18, 2002, 01:25 AM: Message edited by: Zambosan ]</small>

[DBSP]

I've never had any problems with AP and metals. I don't think it's acid sensitive, HMTD is though. If it isn't acid sensitive there shuldn't be any problems combining it with TNP.
I used AP and TNP in a det today but I put a paper sheet between them just to make shure.

[kingspaz]

as far as i know it doesn't corrode metals. it may after a VERY long time but not as aggressively as HMTD does. this i am unsure of however.
the other statement, compatible my ass!
i mean, they may mean just don;t react together, but surely if its acidic then mixing a peroxide with it is asking for trouble. all these accidents you hear of with HMTD and AP usually can be traced back to improper neutralisation.
acidity + peroxide = unstable
but if anybody wants to try it, store it for a couple of days then do sensitivity tests then that may be useful.
a mix of TNP/AP, 10/90. this will be fuse sensitive and can be regarded as simliar to AP, impact tests could be compared to straight AP. if i was insane, had some AP and TNP lying around i'd do it myself, but i'm non of those!

[vonK]

I regularly press CTAP into metal casings (mainly .22 shells) and have never had any problems.
However I can vouch for HMTD reacting with metals and would like to tell you a little story.
Once upon a time a friend of mine was filling a 12g CO2 cartridge with HMTD and as he was filling it he noticed it getting warm, so put it in the frezzer to cool down. After a couple of mins chilling he resumed filling the cartridge and then "BANG!!", the cartridge rocketed out of his hand, smashed a 5cm diameter hole in the bench and bounced into his hip causing a gash that required 3 stiches.
God knows why the cartridge wasn't blown into a thousand pieces, by all rights he should be missing a hand.
The moral of this story is, "never mix HMTD with metals...EVER".
I have some HMTD pressed on top of some picric acid right now. It's in a cardboard tube with 'rapid filla' endplugs, been sitting on a shelf for about a day now.
This is just a test to see if I can get my picric acid to detonate (I've been having a lot of trouble with it lately).

Kurt.

[mr.evil]

Hello,
when i make some AP, somethimes the crystalls are like sugar.. but the other times they are like a fine powder...really strange :rolleyes:

i use Megalomania's method, but instead of H2SO4 i use 32% HCl.
has anyone an idea what can be the reason of this?
pretty shitty, as the larger crystals are more, more sensitive than the small ones...
the small ones don't go boom after an blow with an hammer, the larger ones will.

Cya

<small>[ April 06, 2002, 03:46 PM: Message edited by: mr.evil ]</small>

[vonK]

When I make CTAP it is always a fine powder (but not as fine as HMTD).
I store my CTAP in match boxes and after about a month the powder has become sugar sized crystals, sometimes even bigger.
However these crystals seem no more sensitive than the powder. I usualy put them on a sheet of paper and crush them with the handle of a screwdriver.
Only a couple of crystals at a time, all though none have ever exploded I'm not stupid enough to crush a heap all at once.
I use H2SO4.
I have also used an 80% acetone nail polish remover solution that contained lots of additives (dyes, vitamins, aloe vera etc.) and the final product was no different as if I had used 100% acetone.

[nbk2000]

I tried earlier today to make it using bleach instead of acid.

(all parts by volume)
1 part acetone (CP)
1 part bleach (sodium hypochlorite 5.25%)
2 parts 12% H2O2

After precooling to 10 degrees F the premixed acetone and peroxide, I added the precooled (also 10F) bleach.

An immediate and vigourous foaming occurred as each drop was added.

After adding all the bleach, I put it back in the freezer.

It's been 10 hours and there is NO precipate.

I remembered an old topic that mentioned using liquid bleach instead of acid. I didn't bother to look it up, rather wanting to see myself if it would work. I'll review the old post (if it was archived) and compare results.

[NoltaiR]

I appreciate people doing testing and posting their results but this sounds rediculous. The acid (as I would expect EVERYONE should know), is used as a catalyst.. you are doing no good whatsoever by substituting the acid with yet another oxidizer to go along with the H2O2.

I am not meaning to put you down NBK, but what made you think that this would work.. if your were going to do this test you might as well have just mixed acetone with the bleach, because the H2O2 isn't going to be very readily broke down into its oxidizing component, O2, without an acid.

And also to those of you who wonder why HCl makes a finer powder than H2SO4 which tends to make granulated AP when dry: the H2SO4 is virtually always much more concentrated and if you bought it from anywhere other than a certified chemical supply house, then more than likely there will be some additives mixed in with your H2SO4 (whether on purpose or due to shortcuts taken when making the H2SO4 at the factory). The HCl, however, is almost completely clean of additives.. the process of bubbling hydrogen chloride tends to be much less messy than that of bubbling hydrogen sulfide into the water. Nonetheless these additives tend to bind together your AP to a certain extent.

I have experimented using 94% drain cleaner H2SO4 with 97% lab grade H2SO4. After 3 hours the AP was collected and allowed to dry while the filtrates of both were replaced in the refrigerator. The 94% made a black/brown AP that even when dried tended to clump together very easy. The AP made with the 97% lab grade made granules although they much resembled sugar in the reason that they didn't clump together much at all (if any.. in fact some of it was fine enough to even blow away when a gust of wind blew through my garage windows). The filtrate was allowed to sit for 8 more hours. The 94% made white crystals slightly larger than that of the first batch from the 97% AP.. they tended to clump a little, but not near as bad as the first batch of 94%. The 97% made AP equal in size to that as the first batch it made. The filtrates were then allowed to sit for 15 more hours. The resulting AP from both were the same.

When using HCl, you won't have all the additives that your store-bought H2SO4 will have.. and likewise you will have a lower concentration of acid meaning that more water will be in your mix.. you will recieve basically the same results when using a mix of 30% HCl:acetone:30% H2O2 as you would with 60% HCl:acetone:15% H2O2 assuming that you measure this within a short amount of time because if you just wait it out, then your 30% H2O2 will obviously precipitate more. The point is that the more water that is available.. the longer the reaction will take.

[nbk2000]

Any newbie can make AP using HCl or sulphuric.

I'm not interested in recreating the wheel.

I AM interested in finding other common things that can be used to make AP besides the two acids.

So, rather than criticising it, why don't you try it? Or try some creative experiments with other substances as catalysts?

Here's one, phosphoric acid. Often used in toilet cleaners. Has anyone tried citric acid?

We need to increase our knowledge base of what will and won't work as catalysts.

BTW, there is now an ice-like layer at the bottom of the bottle. I took a piece out and let it warm up. It melted into a liquid. I tried igniting it, but it won't. I'm assuming it's water. If I had my digital thermometer available I'd boil it and measure its Bp.

PS: Assumption is the mother of all fuck ups. I'm not going to assume something won't work till I've tried it. Otherwise, we'd still be thinking the earth was flat and the sun orbited the earth.

PPS: Sulphuric acid is made with Sulfur Trioxide reacting with water, not Hydrogen Sulphide.

<small>[ April 07, 2002, 03:08 AM: Message edited by: nbk2000 ]</small>

[Pu239 Stuchtiger]

Phosphoric acid would work, but not that well due to a relatively high pKa. However, this fact could be very useful for the desperate. The only ways I can imagine possible to prepare cyclo(di/tri/tetra) 2-peroxypropane (commonly called acetone peroxide) are reaction of hydrogen peroxide and acetone in the presence of an inorganic acid catalyst; and the auto-oxidation of isopropyl ether.

Explanations for the results of your experiment: the NaOCl is oxidizing the H2O2 to H2O and O2 gas (I don't think that is the answer, but it is a possibility). If you want to find out if NaOCl really does oxidize H2O2, you will have to prepare your own NaOCl by electrolysis of a cold aqueous solution of NaCl; why you will have to do so will be explained shortly. The other explanation has to do with the composition of household bleach. NaOCl is unstable in any environment other than a strongly alkaline solution. Most sodium hypochlorite bleaches contain NaOH to make the solution strongly alkaline. Strongly alkaline compounds catalytically decompose H2O2 into H2O and O2. Interesting experiment that one can do to prepare NaOH in a quite wasteful manner, and that will prove that H2O2 is catalytically decomposed by an alkaline pH:

React NaHCO3 with an excess of H2O2 solution. Be wary; at first the reaction appears to be slow, but the reaction rate (foaming is a result of the reaction) increases exponentially; this is because the pH begins to increase as the reaction proceeds. You will need to keep a close watch on this experiment.

<small>[ April 07, 2002, 03:58 AM: Message edited by: Pu239 Stuchtiger ]</small>

[Polverone]

I'm pretty sure Pu239 is right about the foaming being the liberation of O2 gas as H2O2 and NaOCl meet. Acetone and hypochlorites alone - no H2O2 - can be used to make chloroform. I doubt that any better catalyst than H2SO4 or HCl will ever be found for the acetone peroxide reaction.

But if you want to try more materials you might try solid "pH down" for pools - generally sodium bisulfate - which is easier to get than sulfuric acid and doesn't fume like hydrochloric does. You would of course need to do an extra-thorough wash and neutralization of your product, since sodium bisulfate's a solid. Another exotic (and nasty) possibility might be ammonium bifluoride, which is found in some toilet cleaners and requires nearly the same handling procedures as hydrofluoric acid. As long as you're trying out weak organic acids like ascorbic and citric, why not give acetylsalicylic a shot? Or, certainly, acetic? It's at least stronger than citric. Heck, I tell you what, I'm going to try using acetic myself, just to see if it works.

Or - for super-duper ghetto chemistry - you could see what sort of results you can get from the worst of raw materials: 3% antiseptic peroxide, nail polish remover, and toilet cleaner. Visiting a paint store isn't suspicious but visiting the grocery store is even less so. On the bright side, I doubt you'll have to worry about excessively vigorous reactions.

[nbk2000]

Well, there's only two gases that could be released by the reaction between peroxide and hypochlorite: Oxygen or Chlorine.

Since I didn't smell any chlorine, that leaves oxygen.

But, just to verify this, I just mixed the peroxide and hypchlorite together in a capped vial. I then held a lit lighter to it and watched the flame progress down the vial to the liquid.

Thus, Oxygen.

(BEAVIS)
FIRE, FIRE, Cool, Cool! HEHE..HEHE.
(/BEAVIS)

<img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />

There's a very tiny amount of precipitate in the AP reaction mix vial in the freezer. I don't know if it's AP or water traces. But, even if it was AP, it'd be a pathetic yield, thus a waste of time anyways.

[Yikes]

As NBK said: Sulphuric acid is made with Sulfur Trioxide reacting with water, not Hydrogen Sulphide.

But H2S IS an acid, so it may be used to make AP, I guess.
(I'm not sure why you would want to do that, though: smelly, and toxic too.)

However, all things should be tried once. Any volunteers? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />

[Pu239 Stuchtiger]

I tried acetic acid a long time ago, and it didn't work. I placed 300mL 3% H2O2 solution, 50mL acetone in a beaker. When I added 100mL of 5% acetic acid, the solution became a highly translucent white. However, even a week later no additional change had occurred.