Arc welding

[akinrog]

Dear Friends,
Sorry for starting a new thread. Recently I have bought an arcwelder. But welding is a capability which IMHO a amateur gunsmith must possess. That's the very reason I have started this.

However I don't know how to use that sucker. So I started googling arc welding tutorial and found this tutorial (http://www.aussieweld.com.au/arcwelding/) and this (http://www.arconweld.com/welding_faq/welding_tutorial.htm) amongst the others. However, I am unsure if it is really good or there is something better. Any ideas? And how do you do this operation?

[Ropik]

I have one friend which weld me anything I need for a few dollars. Also, he teach me how to use welder - and IMO this is the best tutorial - find somebody experienced with it and let him teach you.

[TreverSlyFox]

Ropik is right, if you can find someone to show you a few of the "tricks" to Arc Welding you'll be way ahead of the game. One of the secrets is called "Stick Time" (the amount of time you spend welding). The more time you spend welding the better you get and no amount of tutorials will replace actually welding. The tutorials will help with the basics but stick time makes you good at it.

Get yourself about 5# of E6011 or E6013 rod and some 1/4" scrap steel plate and go at it. Weld flat at first, once your good at that, then start welding "verticle" (6013 is good for that as it's a "Fast Freeze" rod). I hope you picked up an AC/DC Arc Welder, some rods work better with DC and some work better with AC depending on what your doing. It's not "Hard" to learn, it just takes "Time" to learn it. Good luck and have "Fun" with it. :p

[tomu]

The aussiworld site seems pretty good to me, I just browsed through it.

For you it's off to the scrape yard get yourself some old steel and practice, good welding skills come only through lots of practice.

[akinrog]

My first attempt was quite a failure. :(

I am very grateful for your recommendations but I have no friend who can do arc welding. So I have to learn it by myself.

First and foremost, I cannot keep the electrode rod at the required distance when I hit the workpiece it starts arcing but I am slow in removing it from the workpiece and it sticks and freezes on the workpiece. At first this scared me a lot since I thought the machine shall blow up or burn my power installation. But there is a protection in the device it did not blow up or burn the powe installation.

In addition, I have difficulty in seeing through the welding mask. I don't know but how I shall hit the electrode at the correct place if I cannot see the very point I need to strike? If I remove the mask then the arc blinds me by creating a large and bright after image in my eyes, thereby preventing (again) me from seeing the target point. However I must confess that I started welding a serious workpiece at the beginning. I had a defective office chair whose defect was located at the hard-to-reach point. As you recommend, I shall obtain some scrap metal and start welding it. And I am determined to learn it after this age of mine.

[festergrump]

A great investment to go along with your welder is a self-darkening mask. They can get pretty expensive but are well worth it IMO. I don't weld (yet) myself, but my brother has a mask like this. It's very easy to see thru when you aren't welding and darkens immediately upon starting the arc.

[EDIT: Here's two links to a couple of good (and not very expensive) welding helmets on Harbor Freight: HERE (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=91214) and HERE (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=91212).]


I'm just speculating here, Akinrog, but if you have a problem with the rod sticking to the workpiece you more than likely don't have the current set to the correct setting. Methinks you should crank it up a bit and bump it lightly against the piece a few times. Once it starts to arc the rod should be able to be moved rather freely while arcing continuously. Too much juice and you'll cut right through your workpiece, though. Just something to try out. Again, I am no welder but have messed around with it at my bros house a few times.

There's a welding spray (I forgot what it's called) that you can get at Home Depot to make removal of spatter from around your weld a much simpler deal, too, for use on work that needs to have a nice cosmetic appearance.

A welder has been on my wish list for some time, now. I'm jealous! :p :D

[Jacks Complete]

I've not done much arc welding, since I have yet to get it out of the box! However, I will tell you this, MIG is a lot better and easier. Spot welding is most precise.

As Festergrump says, you need to bump the stick to strike the arc, but don't let it stick. It's more of a graze than a bump, too. Keep it moveing is always key, with any welder type bar a spot welder.

If you can't see where the arc is striking, you can either get the fancy electronic sheilds, which are such a time saver it isn't true, or you get get a lighter glass for your welding mask, or, and this seems to be the easiest way, drag everything out into the sunshine, or use a really powerful spotlight, so you can see the work faintly through the glass before the arc strikes.

DON'T try looking at the arc. The UV does very nasty things! Wear thick gloves, and make sure your trousers won't let anything get inside your shoes. Any spall is rather hot, and getting it in your socks (or anywhere) will burn a hole in them and you.

I'm going to be using mine to make an electric arc furnace. See http://www.popsci.com/popsci/how2/article/0,20967,726308,00.html for details of how to melt Tungsten at home!

[Anthony]

IIRC I was told by someone who used to teach welding, that the rod is more likely to stick if it is damp (atmospheric moisture), and recommended drying them out in an oven for a bit.

I don't understand it, but from observation there does seem to be something in it. As once a rod that kept sticking has been used for a few seconds and so heated up, it no longer sticks.

[tomu]

Try to strike the arc like you would strike/light a match. It's more like scratching the electrode in an oblique angle at the workpiece not like tiping or hitting it.

Setting Amperage on your welder is diameter of the electrode multiplied by 40 - 45 Ampere. For example 3.2 mm electrode the setting is betwenn 128 - 144 A, at the start I would set the welder to about 140 A, just experiment.

Good practice for the beginning is try to burn holes through your workpiece (piece of junk metal for practice of course) to get a feeling how long it takes to burn through. After your proficient with that start to lay weld beads.

[Dave the Rave]

I found some nice links on the subject of welding like these online courses on electric welding and cutting (http://www.millerwelds.com/education/etraining.html) with an nice except on MIG and gauss cutting. An good link to those who want to understand electricity and with an small video on plasma gouging.

Check out also the PDF booklets section (http://www.millerwelds.com/education/bookspamphlets.html) and download some files that will be soon avaliable on The Forum FTP, like the "welding & the world of metals" or "arc welding fundamentals"

Here you can learn how to strike and estabilish an arc (http://www.lincolnelectric.com/knowledge/articles/content/strikearc.asp) and the arc welding fundamentals (http://www.lincolnelectric.com/knowledge/articles/content/arcweldfund.asp) and some articles (http://www.lincolnelectric.com/knowledge/articles/list.asp) on an fully searchable database with some nice essays on "how to" welding tips.

And speaking on MIG, here are the most elucidating sucesfull MIG technics (http://lametalsmiths.org/news/successful_mig_techniques.htm)

And finaly some Links (http://www.millerwelds.com/education/welding_links/)

[akinrog]

Dave,
Thank you very much for the links. It is really great find :).

At least I have learnt that my arc welder is a stick (aka SMAW) welder. During this weekend I shall start experimenting with it. Currenly (and given my skill level at arc welding) I cannot invest in a gas shielded arc welder. They are quite expensive and since I am a hobbyist, it is overkil, IMHO.

I don't know but my eqipment is supplied only with a crocodile (for holding the electrode) attached at the end of electrode cable and ground (work piece) cable had no clamp or some other tool to attach to the workpiece. Even the ground cable's wires were not exposed (I mean the cable's sheath was not stripped). The bastards also did not supply a power plug. (Only the cord was present and no power plug) I had to install them by myself. I have stripped end of the ground (workpiece) cable and have attached a meat hook to it.

However it is rather loose. I tried to crimp one end of the meat hook around the exposed wires but the bloody thing was really though. Next time I start the welder this weekend I shall weld the cable to the meat hook first (thereby increasing the contact between them). Or I might find a large spike (i.e. nail) and bend that to the shape since the spikes are more ductile and softer than meat hooks. (As another alternative I may heat the meat hook to cheery red and allow it to cool thereby softening it.)

[TreverSlyFox]

It would be better to attach the "ground cable" to a steel "C" clamp rather than a "meat hook" or "spike".

[Dave the Rave]

Akinrog, the reason why the ground isn´t striped is because on most workshops they solder the cable to an metalic table, which sustains the piece on which one is working, thus the contact is more abrangent and safe, and the worker cam move freely around the work.

For the same reason the power cable isn´t equiped with an plug, because the workshopeers attaches it on an energy pannel, not on an wall outlet. If the electrode freezes beyond human capacity of free it, it could, maybe, fry all the cables on the wall, but if it´s directly connected on the main power pannel, it just burns the fusible or drops the disjunctor.

Anyway, Slyfox is rigth, for the sake of the homogeneity, could you make your own steel table to work on or just buy an nice steel clamp and weld it on the ground cable, at least you have your arc welder !

Seriously, any bad contact on the ground cable will render on flaws or bubbles on the weld, which can be very dangerous.

Imagine an jetkart with an bad work on the junctions. Now, imagine that hot afterburner rigth behind your head, which is roaring and figthing against its bubblous and not homogenious welds, which can break and let the engine fly thru your back. Ouch, better buy that clamp...

[tdog49]

Akinrog,

I am a journeyman welder, certified structually, pipe and railroad. I am also a certified pipefitter. I am also certifiably nuts ( just ask my wife) lol

I know that statement violates the "instant expert" rule....ah well I need some excitement anyway.....

Seriously,
the online tutorial you found looks fine. One of the best ways to get instruction is to take classes at your local community college. NOT a trade school (they cost lots more). what you need to learn is:
1. how to set up the welder for stick size and composition and material size
2. how to run a bead, fillet , t joint and v groove
3. how to tell if your weld is good or not.

Tomu's advice is right on....
thats about it really, except that I definitely recommend a speed lens (auto darkening) it is the single biggest tool that will speed up your learning curve.
Mainly by getting you past the "strike and stick" phase, because it lets you see what your doing. I have 3 myself.... all for different purposes.

Anthony,
some fluxes aborb moisture and need to be kept dry to perform best. some do not.

[MightyQuinn®]

What an excellent thread.

I am just getting to the point now where I can strike an arc without getting the stick stuck. Nothing was more frustrating when I started out as getting the rod stuck, not being able to free it with a wrist snap and lifting the hood to find a rod completely on fire, yikes.

I agree that tdog49 on these points:

1. how to set up the welder for stick size and composition and material size 2. how to run a bead, fillet , t joint and v groove 3. how to tell if your weld is good or not.

Even a good welder can be slowed down by an improperly set up welder. For me, just learning the types and uses of rods is a bit overwhelming. So too was the proper polarity, type of voltage and amount of current.

About auto-darkening helmets...If you are going to want it to last, you will have to be careful with it. If you want it to operate perfectly every time, you are going to have to pay for it. I am on my 2nd one now, but have gotten some pointers from the boys up in our weld shop. You can't really throw them around like a standard helmet. This tends to happen in the field for me. I have gone back to using a standard helmet with quality lenses.

In my current line of work, I have a work truck. It just happens to have a cutting torch, welder and compressed air on it :D I find myself out in the driveway on the weekends practicing on scrap steel (get that for free too.) I am not a good welder by any stretch, but can verify that you will become more comfortable and better with practice.

I have gotten my best practise by volunteering to hard-face weld. In this process we use a hard-face rod to build up a layer (or many) of side by side welds for wear protection. It's less critical than attaching 2 pieces of steel so there is more room for error. It's great for practising striking and running strait, uniform beads.

[tubes]

You can make a very good welder from an old car alternator and a 5HP electric (or gas) motor. You can get some very useable and adjustable current out of it, see here (http://classicbroncos.com/homemade-welder.shtml).

[FrankRizzo]

You can also DIY one from reversing step-up transformers scavenged from old microwave ovens.

Instructions Here (http://www.dansworkshop.com/Homebuilt%20arc%20welder.shtml)

[CommonScientist]

Tomu - you set up the amperage to the metal your working with, amps = heat when welding.

A stick welder is not a proficient tool for an amateur gunsmith, as its weld qualities are primitive. A TIG is much better for that as it is more acurate, but it takes more skill.

[CommonScientist]

Tomu - you set up the amperage to the metal your working with, amps = heat when welding.

A stick welder is not a proficient tool for an amateur gunsmith, as its weld qualities are primitive. A TIG is much better for that as it is more acurate, but it takes more skill.

[CommonScientist]

Tomu - you set up the amperage to the metal your working with, amps = heat when welding.

A stick welder is not a proficient tool for an amateur gunsmith, as its weld qualities are primitive. A TIG is much better for that as it is more acurate, but it takes more skill.

[tomu]

Tomu - you set up the amperage to the metal your working with, amps = heat when welding.

A stick welder is not a proficient tool for an amateur gunsmith, as its weld qualities are primitive. A TIG is much better for that as it is more acurate, but it takes more skill.


The right diameter of the electrode is related to the thickness of the metal to be welded. The amps are set, as a rule of thump according to the diameter of the used /choosen welding rod (as stated in my post above, fine tuning and adjustment have to be done of course. At least that is what I've learned and what is tought by the german weldors association. With a buzz box only steel is welded in normal circumstances.

I agree with you that TIG is a far better choice for gunsmithing as is oxy-acetylen welding. Also soldering and brazing are extensivly used by gunsmith.

[tomu]

Tomu - you set up the amperage to the metal your working with, amps = heat when welding.

A stick welder is not a proficient tool for an amateur gunsmith, as its weld qualities are primitive. A TIG is much better for that as it is more acurate, but it takes more skill.


The right diameter of the electrode is related to the thickness of the metal to be welded. The amps are set, as a rule of thump according to the diameter of the used /choosen welding rod (as stated in my post above, fine tuning and adjustment have to be done of course. At least that is what I've learned and what is tought by the german weldors association. With a buzz box only steel is welded in normal circumstances.

I agree with you that TIG is a far better choice for gunsmithing as is oxy-acetylen welding. Also soldering and brazing are extensivly used by gunsmith.

[tomu]

Tomu - you set up the amperage to the metal your working with, amps = heat when welding.

A stick welder is not a proficient tool for an amateur gunsmith, as its weld qualities are primitive. A TIG is much better for that as it is more acurate, but it takes more skill.


The right diameter of the electrode is related to the thickness of the metal to be welded. The amps are set, as a rule of thump according to the diameter of the used /choosen welding rod (as stated in my post above, fine tuning and adjustment have to be done of course. At least that is what I've learned and what is tought by the german weldors association. With a buzz box only steel is welded in normal circumstances.

I agree with you that TIG is a far better choice for gunsmithing as is oxy-acetylen welding. Also soldering and brazing are extensivly used by gunsmith.

[Jacks Complete]

Auto-darkening helmets are brilliant.

Just treat them as safety equipment, as you should, and you will be fine. Unless it gets really cold, in which case the LCD slows down, and you get a bit more flash than you wanted!

[Jacks Complete]

Auto-darkening helmets are brilliant.

Just treat them as safety equipment, as you should, and you will be fine. Unless it gets really cold, in which case the LCD slows down, and you get a bit more flash than you wanted!

[Jacks Complete]

Auto-darkening helmets are brilliant.

Just treat them as safety equipment, as you should, and you will be fine. Unless it gets really cold, in which case the LCD slows down, and you get a bit more flash than you wanted!

[pfred1]

Tomu - you set up the amperage to the metal your working with, amps = heat when welding.

A stick welder is not a proficient tool for an amateur gunsmith, as its weld qualities are primitive. A TIG is much better for that as it is more acurate, but it takes more skill.

Do you have or have you used a TIG welder? Personally I find them a bit easier to use than stick welders. TIG welders take more money that is for sure but more skill? Then again calling a stick welder primitive to me at least displays a lack of basic welding knowledge right there. Steam fitting is often done with the "primitive" SMAW process, and it is X-Rayed for defects too!

Some people in this thread seem to know what they are talking about but there seems to be a fair amount of misinformation flying around here too. BTW to the guy who thinks MIG welding is so wonderful, here's my quote for that process, whenever I break out my MIG welder my motto is, frig it I'll MIG it! It is not the best welding process by a long shot. Personally I'd put it at the bottom for quality and penetration. Though it is used heavily in industry because once the process is dialed in it is fast and cheap.

I own a full set of Smiths oxy-acetylene euipment, a MIG welder, a stick welder, and a TIG welder, and I have been welding now for over 25 years. Each tool and process has its place. One of these days I have to get my hands on a laser for welding, just to round out my collection.

As far as reading books for welding information, I do every chance I get. Whatever is known about welding is recorded in printed materials. There is surely more knowledge contained in the full body of works than any one individual knows about the topic. And no matter how much one may think they know about welding I am sure there is still something else to be learned about the process. It is that involved after all. Just weld for NASA with some beady eyed guy peering over your shoulder while you are running your bead. Even the rocket science boys weigh in heavily on the topic of welding!

I will close with a few tips I always give new welders, work clean, and prepare your joints accurately. This gives you the best possible chance for success. Inclusion contamination is the number one cause of failure afaik. Oh and do get an angle grinder, it is like the American Express card of welding. Don't weld without one! Oh yeah the auto darkening hoods are nice. I have an Optrel. A cheaper way to go is having two 500 watt quartz halogen lights illuminating your work area. You can even see what is going on through a #14 shade with that.

Welding misinformation is one of my hot button topics I am afraid. Sometimes is is better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to open one's mouth and remove all doubt.

[nbk2000]

I knew a guy who could weld a cut-in-half soda can back together by the edges, with any welding rig (gas/TIG/etc), and have it be watertight! :)

Came from decades of experience in aerospace.

Just like with guns, the skill of the user rarely exceeds the capabililty of the tool.

[Doug]

I have one small tip - make sure there's nothing in your working area that is at all flammable - arc welders tend to fling red hot slag all over the place.

I remember one time using one on a bench at work, not checking what else was on the bench properly, and when I flipped my mask up to examine my handiwork, the whole bench was on fire from a pot of white spirit someone had left out after earlier painting - I hadn't got a clue because I couldn't see it through the mask...

[Alexires]

syfilius - A little bit of a difference between and oxy torch and a spirits fire.

Its hard to see a methanol fire NORMALLY so not seeing a white spirit fire through a tinted welding mask (assumed as he was flipping it up to look at his work) isn't really that shocking...

[InfernoMDM]

Thanks for all the helpful info.

[Gunjack]

Some tips to start practising:

use your grinder on scrap metal pieces to get the rust, paint or other protective coating off, some coatings aren't meant to be welded through.

Also take a good look at the sticks you bought for welding, some sticks cant be used at certain angels.

With a arc welder you have to draw your weld to yourself wile holding your stick at an angle.

Protect all skin from the light , it will burn you badly and you'll notice it to late.

[stupid939]

I did not want to start a new thread to release this information, and this is the only thread that it is closely related to.

I came across this material a few months ago when I used it on a welding project for which I had to make support structures. It has a low melting point (732°F) and it can be melted with a propane, mapp, or oxy-acetylene torches. It can be used on most non-ferrous metals (excluding stainless steel) and you can even join different non-ferrous metals together.

I was told that it could only be purchased from Durafix, but I have found it under different names at places like hardware stores and Harbor Freight Tools. It goes under names like "Alumiweld Rods" and "HTS 2000". I noticed that they have something that looks like oxidation on one side and they look like they were cut off with a bandsaw. This is how I determined that the different companies are selling the same product (I did not want to buy a rip off after I used the "original").

They come in 1/8" diameter, 18" long rods and usually contain 8 per pack, and they usually run around $11-13 for the 8 pack.

In my experience it is very easy to use, and if you prep the materials first it works best. You are supposed to use a stainless steel brush so that it does not become contaminated, and then tin the surface before you apply the bead, fill the hole, or whatever. If you do not prep the surface well enough the bead tends to just release and you have to prep it and restart.

The only problem that I have encountered is that it is a little hard to file, drill, and machine. It seems to be harder than any of the parent metals yet it has about the same tensile strength as aluminum.

Here are some links advertising this "*LOW COST *STRONGER THAN ALUMINUM *NO FLUXES OR FUMES *LOW WORKING TEMPERATURE" material. Take a look at the videos and look at the size of the holes that they fill in.

http://durafix.com/

http://www.aluminumrepair.com/aluminum_repair.asp

http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/itemdisplay/displayItemList.do

I mainly wanted to share this for those who don't like welding aluminum, but I am curious about its composition. I found several patents on fluxless aluminum brazing, and I am pretty certain that it is mainly an aluminum and magnesium alloy. What do you guys think?

[nbk2000]

I am pretty certain that it is mainly an aluminum and magnesium alloy.

If it's a magnalum alloy, it sounds good for use in making exothermic cutting rods. :)

[stupid939]

It would be nice to use as a cutting rod. Maybe I'll test a piece with my arc welder. ;)

Most of the patents that I have found while searching for "Aluminum Brazing" tend to list rare and uncommon metals, and the melting point tends to be above 1000°F.

The closest thing I found was patent #3356494. It has a melting temperature of 818°F, and the closest percentages would be around 75% Aluminum and 25% Magnesium. I just thought magnesium was a fairly soft metal and wasn't very hard to file, cut, etc. This is why I dismissed the idea that it would be solely a magnalium alloy.

[209]

Try your best not to run welds on aluminum. It can give off toxic fumes like zinc coated materials. Often you will need a special stick to weld aluminum, like an aluminum rod :) .

If you are using a MIG and you are going to be doing a lot of aluminum welding that it may be a good idea to buy a spool gun. these can get a bit pricy but it may be worth it. often aluminum wire will missfeed in the hose, its a real pain in the ass to get it refed.

If your gas welding, you really dont need a filler rod, a fusion weld can be just as strong if your a good welder.

My first arc welding experience was terrible, I am all self taught and am a good welder now, but you should have seen some of my first beads!:D

[stupid939]

I was kidding about using it for a cutting rod in the arc welder because NBK said that it would make a nice exothermic cutting rod. If you did try to use it that way, because of its composition, you may get a large shower of white sparks that burn for quite a bit. At least that is the way that I interpreted NBK's post.

I have used aluminum in my mig, and like you said, it is supposed to wear off in the liner and mess it up. I bought another liner and use that when I do aluminum welding (which I suck at), and I haven't had any problems yet.

[TORCHed]

In my field, I only see Arc Welding being used for large welding jobs. I have a small arc welder which I frequently used for automotive purposes. The arc I use was very cheap, but allowed me to complete many exhaust manifolds, up-pipes, and down-pipes.

The slight of hand is key when using an arc welder (especially the cheap one I had for starters). Moving too fast to the items you are trying to weld will result in you stopping the current, and heating up the rod (the rod gets stuck, and you have to snap it off quickly before the flux burns off making it useless). If making a weld on a circular tube to another tube/item, you need to slowly pull away in order to create a proper and steady bead WITHOUT burning through or warping the tubing.

I currently use a MIG welder for my automotive uses. It is much easier to use than an Arc, that is for sure! Hell, I used it today to weld shut smog inlets on my friends car! The gas assisted MIGs are even greater, and far easier to use or such applications.

Now if you are looking for the ultimate, and cleanest weld possible (as stated below)... you are looking for a TIG welder. Plan on paying a decent penny for one of these, but they are worth every penny!

I plan on buying a Plasma Cutter though! I like to buy and chop cars for parts. This would be a great tool needed for the long and annoying task of cutting up a car using a Saws-All.

[Kaydon]

TIG Is by far the best. Stick is garbage.

MIG, it's good and easy to learn. TIG makes the cleanest welds, if you're good. It's hard to learn.

I almost exclusively TIG weld, I use MIG for bullshit welding that I don't care about much.

Whatever you do, get a 220v welder. Lincoln Pro MIG 180 is a good starter, or Hobart 180. Hobart and Miller guns are interchangeable too, as they're both made in the same factory.

[PYRO500]

Stick welding is not always garbage, if you have to do any welding in anything more than just a slight breeze, or on thick material, or out in the field on something you have no control over the orientation of the material, then it can be very handy to know how to do it correctly. You just need to learn to chip slag and not bury the old slag in a new pass of filler metal (when will people learn, chip after every pass) I find it easier to burn through rust and paint with a stick welder than with mig, and forget about tig welding on anything except ultra clean prepared surfaces. As far as MIG goes, don't confuse mig with FCAW witch uses a similar setup as mig but with flux cored wire that creates its own shielding gas. FCAW does work in the wind where mig can't shield the surface at any reasonable gas flow rate, but the welds usually turn out pretty ugly, and it throws this white/brown slag crap all over your work witch needs to be removed afterwards, or before a second pass if you are gap filling.

I agree for gunsmithing, TIG is definitely the way to go as well as trying to get a foot pedal current controlled tig with high frequency AC capability.
When I took my welding classes it was required that anyone who took TIG welding be very proficient in oxy acetylene welding as it teaches you how to work with one hand on the torch and the other manually feeding the filler rod.
Unlike stick, with TIG if you accidentally bump the tungsten into your work you will contaminate the tungsten and screw up your electrode's shape necessitating that you disassemble the torch head, remove the tungsten and spend some quality time with the bench grinder.

[Unsunghero]

Well something extremely basic that I only saw one person graze over. You said you were having trouble with the electrode "sticking", personally I used the 6013 electrode starting out and it tends to stick the least on a flat plane. My advice to you with that is instead of striking it across or tapping it, make it the beginning of your motion to weld. Basically strike and start in the same motion and it won't stick as much, I'm quiet an ameteur at it, but that just means I know the beginner problems :p.

[Ofortuna]

I taught myself how to weld when I was younger, but hadn't welded in about a decade. As part of the college degree(s) I'm getting, I took a quarter of welding. 8 hours a day for 3 months.

Wow, I learned a lot.

Can't see? Try using a couple shades lighter lens in your hood. The glass / the shading protects you from the really bad UV rays. A little bit lighter will offer as much protection from UV, a little less from IR, which while fatiguing, won't do permanent damage to your eyes. Also try pointing a halogen work light at the weld!

The Harbor freight auto darkening helmets (I tried 3 before I gave up) all seem to be about 5 shades darker than they claim, I couldn't see a doggone thing.

As far as starting the weld, A lot of my fellow students were having troubles with this. The instructor had them practice holding the rod about a 1/16" from the metal & moving it along in a straight line, with the power OFF.

Then you can turn it on & try the real thing. bang the end of the rod straight down on something solid, to bust off the first 1/8" of flux. Then clamp it in your rod holder, just bring it in close, like you're going to have it a 1/16" maybe a little closer, control it, it'll pull just a bit as the arc starts, easy now, pull it back just a hair. Now weave it back & forth about a 1/4" side to side as you walk it forward.

I would suggest you start with a clean flat piece of 3/16" or 1/4" plate about 2" X 5" Don't try to weld 2 pieces together yet, just practice surface beads. When you get the hang of it, try a joint. Try 70-90 Amps with 3/32" rod or 85-115 with 1/8" Practice, Practice, Practice!

As a practice project, after you can reliably start & run a bead, take a 6" X 6" piece of 1/4" plate & make a 1" long bead at 50A, the 55A, then 60A & etc, all the way up to as high as you can. Did you say you were using 6010/6011? Turn it over & do the same with some 7018 - pretty! 7018 is a lot easier to weld with/ prettier, but doesn't have any where near the penetration/strength.

Teaches you to recognize when you're messin' up & which way to go to fix it.

MIG welding: There's actually several kinds of MIG welding.
Most hobby MIGs do the flux cored which can be pretty crappy.
The better ones do Gas shielded, which is better.
I had a go with using flux cored wire WITH a gas shield - BEAUTIFUL!

The above processes, especially with a hobby MIG, are done with "short circuit transfer"
Then there is "Pulsed arc" & "Spray Transfer" These both give WAY more penetration, without cooking the gun or the work. Also a whole lot less spatter.

With Spray transfer, you use 95/5 ar/ox gas, DCEP polarity & about double the amperage you'd expect.

With Pulsed arc, you need a special control head that plugs into most professional machines. It allows you to set the duration of the pulse, the duration of the off time, the wave attack angle & the frequency.

TIG welding: I'd never done this before. Kind reminded me of trying to pat my head & rub my stomach & chew gum at the same time - on one foot.
Makes some pretty welds, though. I think it's the only acceptable way to weld some metals, like monel.

[CosmikDebris]

All three welding processes talked about in this thread will provide fine joinery; it really comes down to application.

SMAW, stick/ ARC welding is commonly used in structural applications, beams columns and base plates.

GMAW, MIG is found mostly in mass production environments.

GTAW, TIG is used in many applications from the thinnest gauge metals to root passes on large dia. High pressure pipes, it also has the capability to fuse metals together without the use of filler materials.

Here is a link to miller motor sports; there is a wealth of information for new and expert welders.

http://www.millermotorsports.com/mboard/forumdisplay.php?f=3

[totenkov]

I think its good to point out that gas welding is still excellent for welding all materials at various thicknesses.

I have an Oxy-acetylene rig that has served me very well for the last 8 years. I also have an arc, but would prefer the gas any day over it. to fill up both acetylene and oxygen it costs me 122 bucks and the tanks last me about 6 months. With a little practice you can create superb welds and actually enjoy doing it. With arc, all you see is this little flickering light between the electrode and the base. Same with TIG and MIG.

Gas, you can actually see what your doing and can weld practically any metal (I would stay away from silver with acetylene though :p) and you can cut. All in all an excellent package at half the price of an Arc! (an good arc machine AC/DC will run you up about 450-500 bucks) A good quality TIG or MIG and your already in the thousands. With gas you will need tons of practice, but you can turn out a weld on Stainless steel just as well as a $9000 Tig machine.

[Beelzebub]

A good quality TIG or MIG and your already in the thousands.

Sorry mate...don't believe it costs an arm and a leg to TIG. You can TIG off of any DC machine, doesn't have to be a big expensive one with built in hi-freq, hot start, and all the other goodies. Miller makes a nice little portable 115V DC TIG called the Maxstar 150 (5-150A) that's perfect for the home tinkerer or gunsmither. As long as you're not welding aluminum and keep your metal thickness reasonable, this will weld carbon/stainless steels, inconel, chrome-moly, etc for about $600 new. I've used one and for the money it's a nice machine! For $9000, it ought to weld for me! :D

[totenkov]

$600 for a TIG? :confused: Well you get what you pay for.

[Kaydon]

Sorry, but you won't weld thick metals in a single pass with a 115V machine. Even if you bevel the edges, you'll still have poor penetration. I weld from thicknesses of 1/8" to 1/2" with my Miller 252. I weld everything hot too, guaranteed to get proper penetration, unless I'm welding aluminum then I turn it down - and I never use a spool gun.

I build truck frames, 4 link suspensions, trailers, and anything else I need doing. I weld for myself or friends, not in the business or anything. I use German steel.

[Jacks Complete]

I agree that the difference between the flux cored wire MIG systems and true MIG is like night and day. I thought my welding was crap, until I switched to a "proper" MIG, and the welds were absolutely perfect, second try!

However, the welds I got from my fake MIG were good welds, they just look like shit, and required a lot of clean-up. Works on stainless too, if not very pretty.

I've got an arc welder, but I've never even turned it on.

I also do some forgework, on a homemade forge I posted about ages back, and have done forge welding, but believe me, you are better off using a MIG.

I've also used a spot welder, which is basically a shorted high current transformer which clamps over the metal parts, and heats them while squashing them together until the points melt and weld.