lowjack
February 14th, 2005, 09:15 PM
After seeing a members ASCII art outlining the SKS auto conversion sears, I figured maybe someone might as well see the real deal and not rely on those outstandingly erronious diagrams.. Step by step...Here is the SKS F/A conversion...
Enjoy!
Taken from sks Full-auto .pdf:
Neil Sherman, PSC, Ed/AmAnon Press
1929 McGhee Road, New Market, TN 37820
Phone 615-475-4311 or 615-475-4696
EIN: 62-1172451 SSN: 408-25-7730
FFL's: 01-3K-19402, 03-3K-20249, 06-3K-20250
THE DOWN-N-DIRTY FULL-AUTO SKS (And Sumthin' Extra)
I don't know whether this 'conversion' meets original Mil' Spec'
or not. Haven't checked into it. I do know it works.
The *.PCX Files, Sear1, Sear2, and Sear3, should help you out
much more than these notes. If you can't view *.PCX files, let me
know, I can supply *.TIF, *.MSP, *.IMG, *.CUT, & *.GX1 formats.
The reason I didn't include them is simply to keep the file
package smaller, hopefully increasing your incentive to get it.
The Graphics Files were all drawn BY ME, in PC Paintbrush, using
my own scanner to capture rough 'tracings' made from my own gun.
I did NOT copy anyone elses stuff. There is no Copyright Problem
since I did all the work - In other words, feel free to spread
'em around - and put the full "blame" on me.
The first thing you gotta do, before you even consider making the
conversion, is KNOW HOW TO DISASSEMBLE YOUR TRIGGER GROUP (Not
just take it out, but strip it down to it's major components). If
you don't know how to do that, even after studying the thing for
twenty minutes, then forget it!
Once you get your trigger group out, you must first remove the
Hammer. The hammer has a 'nub' at the bottom which acts as a
SECONDARY Disconnect. Cut that 'nub' off.
Now look at the underside of the hammer. The 'raised' portion, in
front of the Mainspring Shaft, is the Hammer's Sear. You'll need
to cut a channel where the 'nub' used to be, about as wide as the
'nub, to about 3/32 of an inch from the edge of that sear (where
the Mainspring Shaft is).
So long as you leave that little bit of a 'wall' on that end of
the Hammer's Sear, the Full-Auto Trip will 'catch' and hold the
hammer back until the Bolt/Carrier is in Battery. If you cut all
the way through that wall, your gun will be unreliable at best
but will probably NOT fire full since the Hammer will merely
"ride" the bolt all the way closed and never deliver a definite
and independent impact to the firing pin. In any case, Once
you've cut that channel, the Hammer work is done.
In the Trigger Group, under the Hammer, you will find the PRIMARY
Disconnect. When you force the hammer BACK, you will notice the
bottom of the Hammer pushes down on two tits of THIS Disconnect
(One on either side, though it's a single 'folded' unit). You
only have to remove as much metal from these tits as it takes to
prevent the Hammer from contacting them. Once you've got that
done, the Disconnect work is finished.
Next comes the Primary Sear. This is the "Block" located at the
forward end of the trigger group. It is pushed backward by a
Spring that fits between this Sear and the Magazine Catch.
There's an Inspection Hole on the Left side of the Trigger Group
for you to view this Primary Sear Engagement. Take Note of the
ANGLE of Engagement. What you need to do is IMPROVE THAT
ENGAGEMENT to prevent it from becoming dislodged during recoil.
With the Primary Sear Block removed, cut a "shelf" onto it that
you will be able to see through the Inspection Hole. Here too,
you want this "shelf" to be about 3/32 of an inch thick. You
won't need it more than 3/32 of an inch deep either. Once you've
got this "shelf" done, you move on to the Trigger Sear.
The Trigger Sear is a "T"-Shaped Bar you can see best only by
pulling up on the Full Auto Trip (The big, angled thing that
sticks up out front of the Hammer). If you haven't removed the
Primary Disconnect (discussed a little ways back) then do so now
or you won't be able to finish the job! The front end of the
Trigger Sear only needs to be reshaped to fit securely on the
Shelf you cut into the Sear Block.
Once you've got the Trigger Sear reshaped, reassemble the Trigger
Group and put it back in the gun and have a field day.
If you want to 'dry fire' the thing, go ahead. It will be quite
informative to those of us who do not know how a Closed-Bolt
Machine Gun functions. With the Trigger pulled back, hang on to
the Carrier Handle and slowly let the bolt slide forward, toward
Battery. If you did it right, the Bolt will STOP JUST SHORT of
Full Battery position. The breach will still be slightly open.
This is the point at which the Full Auto Sear is 'critical'. Any
movement forward, from here, pushes the Full Auto Trip Down,
disengaging the Full Auto Sear and letting the Hammer Drop.
Because there is some distance, now, between the Hammer and the
Firing Pin, there is a time-lag between when the Bolt Shuts and
when the Hammer hits home. In a Closed-Bolt system, this timing
is basically the only thing that ensures the gun will go off!
I've had to rework enough guns, already, however, to know that
just because all works well during a Dry Fire test, does not mean
it will work with live rounds. All such 'failures' had one thing
in common, though - The Trigger Sear disengaged under Recoil.
Once a Definite and undeniable 'notch', or 'shelf' is put in
place to engage the Trigger Sear to the Sear Block, the gun
functioned Full-Auto. Simply improving the angle of the
engagement proved wholly unreliable.
BUT - An Improved Angle is the only way to get Select-Fire. In
which case, you simply place a Spring (Arched, 'Hair Pin', or
Coil) under the Trigger Sear, inside the trigger group. This
spring keeps upward pressure on the Trigger Sear. You also need a
flat piece of Sheet Steel about a half inch wide. You'll then
need to 'bend' this piece of sheet steel to fit around the
outside of the trigger group, starting at the point between the
Hammer and the Primary Disconnect, to fill in the "gap" you made
by relieving the Primary Disconnect as described earlier, and
wrapping around the Trigger Group clear to the same place on the
opposite side. This little gizmo, if made right, will 'slide'
back and forth. Full Auto will have it fully to the rear, Semi-
will be had by pushing it forward, jamming it between the Hammer
and the Disconnect. It's more of a Pain in the ass than it's
worth, though, since you can actually shoot Double-taps within
the first ten rounds you ever load - And you should find yourself
shooting singles within the first twenty.
Here's a Bonus. Save yourself $20 or so and KEEP YOUR BAYONET
USEFUL. Cut your own "Muzzle Brake"/"Compensator". All it takes
is a Hacksaw and a pocket knife or screw-driver. Look at your
front sight. You'll see it's a got an 'integral sleeve' on it.
Lay your Hacksaw on that sleeve, about 3/16 of an inch from the
BACK (Your on the Sleeve NOT The Barrel) - Angle the saw at about
45 Degrees (The Top of the Saw angled toward the Receiver) and
begin cutting.
First you'll cut through the sleeve, and then through the barrel.
Cut a little shy of the half-way mark (You want SOME Barrel
there, and you want the gas to go more "up" than "out"). Move the
blade about two blade widths forward (Toward the Sight base), and
cut another slot. You have room for about 5 slots if you done it
right. If you done it wrong, Hell! Just file out all the middle
'vents', leaving you a big gaping hole (I did that to mine as a
way to clear mud - I carry the gun over the Shoulder, muzzle down
- Sometimes when you sit down....uh....well, you know)
When you're done with the saw, use a pocket knife or screw-driver
to 'pick out' the burrs the saw left behind. When you fire the
gun, you will notice a 'difference' in the recoil. It's not less,
it's not more, it's just 'different'. But you will notice a BIG
Difference in your shot-string! All things being equal, the gun
wants to shoot in circles, instead of vertically!
Now you have a Comp' withOUT Sacrificing your Bayonet!
Mounting a Supressor is just a matter of using one of those "Slip
On"/'Turn-n-Lock' Muzzle Brakes first - This will seal the
Integral Brake you cut in, and it gives you a 'Mounting Point' by
allowing you to thread the full length of the External Brake.
A Supressor is really nothing more than a couple of tubes, one
smaller than the other, some steel wool or fiberglass batting, a
3/8" dowel, a couple of Toilet "Flapper Valves", and two end caps
to fit the larger of your tubes.
Place the dowel in the smaller tube (1 inch I.D. Schedule 80
PVC Pipe is good, so is the heavier Electrical Conduit. Schedule
40 Steel Pipe is the best, but it's a Blue-Whale to hold when
finished). Fill the tube, around the dowel, with Steel Wool or
fiberglass (Fiberglass is the Quietest - But Always use SOME
steel wool at the gun's muzzle-end anyway - Helps prevent the
Fiberglass from blowing back into the action). Keep the Dowel as
close to the middle of the pipe as you can - This will be the
Bullet Path when you take the dowel out.
Now put one of the Toilet "Flapper Valves" at one end of the
larger (Inch and a Half Inner Diamater) tube. You'll notice the
'Flapper' is Hollow - With an opening at the bottom of it's Cone
Shaped 'Skirt' - This opening faces INTO the Tube - The Outside
Solid Wall of the Flaper faces the OUTSIDE End of the Tube. It's
not necessary, but it's 'good luck' to cut an "X" in the middle
of the Flapper's Solid Wall - This eliminates any danger of any
real pressure build-up.
Now take your other Flapper and cut a hole in it's Solid Wall the
same size as your threaded Muzzle Brake. Take the dowel out of
your smaller tube and insert this tube into the larger one. Place
the other Flapper at this end where your gun muzzle will fit.
Put a 3/8ths inch hole in one Cap and put that cap on the FAR End
where the bullet will be leaving the supressor.
Drill and Tap a hole in the other cap to fit the threads you cut
into your muzzle brake. Place this cap on the opposite end of
your now completed Supressor.
Your rifle now sounds like a weirded-out sound effect! Nothing at
all like in the movies - Quieter as far as Muzzle Blast is
concerned, but it still hurts your ears right through your eyes!
I Cut the one I had down to about 9 inches and placed it on a
Ruger MK 1 22 Semi-Auto where it has remained to this day. This
works much better than trying to hush the Mach II velocities of
Centerfire Rifle Ammo.
If the demand is there, I'll make up an Addendum for the AK.
Since that Conversion can only be made by installing a Parts Kit,
though, I doubt it will ever be very necessary. But who knows.
Since SK's are running at about $100, even an AK owner may think
twice about investing in a Parts Kit since you can have a Full
Auto SK for the same (actually less) money!
Hope this was of some value.
Neil :rolleyes:
Here's a few sks sears required to convert to Full-auto.
Sear 1:
http://www.geocities.com/hiveaddict2000/sear1.jpg
Sear 2:
http://www.geocities.com/hiveaddict2000/sear2.jpg
Sear 3:
http://www.geocities.com/hiveaddict2000/sear3.jpg
Enjoy!
Taken from sks Full-auto .pdf:
Neil Sherman, PSC, Ed/AmAnon Press
1929 McGhee Road, New Market, TN 37820
Phone 615-475-4311 or 615-475-4696
EIN: 62-1172451 SSN: 408-25-7730
FFL's: 01-3K-19402, 03-3K-20249, 06-3K-20250
THE DOWN-N-DIRTY FULL-AUTO SKS (And Sumthin' Extra)
I don't know whether this 'conversion' meets original Mil' Spec'
or not. Haven't checked into it. I do know it works.
The *.PCX Files, Sear1, Sear2, and Sear3, should help you out
much more than these notes. If you can't view *.PCX files, let me
know, I can supply *.TIF, *.MSP, *.IMG, *.CUT, & *.GX1 formats.
The reason I didn't include them is simply to keep the file
package smaller, hopefully increasing your incentive to get it.
The Graphics Files were all drawn BY ME, in PC Paintbrush, using
my own scanner to capture rough 'tracings' made from my own gun.
I did NOT copy anyone elses stuff. There is no Copyright Problem
since I did all the work - In other words, feel free to spread
'em around - and put the full "blame" on me.
The first thing you gotta do, before you even consider making the
conversion, is KNOW HOW TO DISASSEMBLE YOUR TRIGGER GROUP (Not
just take it out, but strip it down to it's major components). If
you don't know how to do that, even after studying the thing for
twenty minutes, then forget it!
Once you get your trigger group out, you must first remove the
Hammer. The hammer has a 'nub' at the bottom which acts as a
SECONDARY Disconnect. Cut that 'nub' off.
Now look at the underside of the hammer. The 'raised' portion, in
front of the Mainspring Shaft, is the Hammer's Sear. You'll need
to cut a channel where the 'nub' used to be, about as wide as the
'nub, to about 3/32 of an inch from the edge of that sear (where
the Mainspring Shaft is).
So long as you leave that little bit of a 'wall' on that end of
the Hammer's Sear, the Full-Auto Trip will 'catch' and hold the
hammer back until the Bolt/Carrier is in Battery. If you cut all
the way through that wall, your gun will be unreliable at best
but will probably NOT fire full since the Hammer will merely
"ride" the bolt all the way closed and never deliver a definite
and independent impact to the firing pin. In any case, Once
you've cut that channel, the Hammer work is done.
In the Trigger Group, under the Hammer, you will find the PRIMARY
Disconnect. When you force the hammer BACK, you will notice the
bottom of the Hammer pushes down on two tits of THIS Disconnect
(One on either side, though it's a single 'folded' unit). You
only have to remove as much metal from these tits as it takes to
prevent the Hammer from contacting them. Once you've got that
done, the Disconnect work is finished.
Next comes the Primary Sear. This is the "Block" located at the
forward end of the trigger group. It is pushed backward by a
Spring that fits between this Sear and the Magazine Catch.
There's an Inspection Hole on the Left side of the Trigger Group
for you to view this Primary Sear Engagement. Take Note of the
ANGLE of Engagement. What you need to do is IMPROVE THAT
ENGAGEMENT to prevent it from becoming dislodged during recoil.
With the Primary Sear Block removed, cut a "shelf" onto it that
you will be able to see through the Inspection Hole. Here too,
you want this "shelf" to be about 3/32 of an inch thick. You
won't need it more than 3/32 of an inch deep either. Once you've
got this "shelf" done, you move on to the Trigger Sear.
The Trigger Sear is a "T"-Shaped Bar you can see best only by
pulling up on the Full Auto Trip (The big, angled thing that
sticks up out front of the Hammer). If you haven't removed the
Primary Disconnect (discussed a little ways back) then do so now
or you won't be able to finish the job! The front end of the
Trigger Sear only needs to be reshaped to fit securely on the
Shelf you cut into the Sear Block.
Once you've got the Trigger Sear reshaped, reassemble the Trigger
Group and put it back in the gun and have a field day.
If you want to 'dry fire' the thing, go ahead. It will be quite
informative to those of us who do not know how a Closed-Bolt
Machine Gun functions. With the Trigger pulled back, hang on to
the Carrier Handle and slowly let the bolt slide forward, toward
Battery. If you did it right, the Bolt will STOP JUST SHORT of
Full Battery position. The breach will still be slightly open.
This is the point at which the Full Auto Sear is 'critical'. Any
movement forward, from here, pushes the Full Auto Trip Down,
disengaging the Full Auto Sear and letting the Hammer Drop.
Because there is some distance, now, between the Hammer and the
Firing Pin, there is a time-lag between when the Bolt Shuts and
when the Hammer hits home. In a Closed-Bolt system, this timing
is basically the only thing that ensures the gun will go off!
I've had to rework enough guns, already, however, to know that
just because all works well during a Dry Fire test, does not mean
it will work with live rounds. All such 'failures' had one thing
in common, though - The Trigger Sear disengaged under Recoil.
Once a Definite and undeniable 'notch', or 'shelf' is put in
place to engage the Trigger Sear to the Sear Block, the gun
functioned Full-Auto. Simply improving the angle of the
engagement proved wholly unreliable.
BUT - An Improved Angle is the only way to get Select-Fire. In
which case, you simply place a Spring (Arched, 'Hair Pin', or
Coil) under the Trigger Sear, inside the trigger group. This
spring keeps upward pressure on the Trigger Sear. You also need a
flat piece of Sheet Steel about a half inch wide. You'll then
need to 'bend' this piece of sheet steel to fit around the
outside of the trigger group, starting at the point between the
Hammer and the Primary Disconnect, to fill in the "gap" you made
by relieving the Primary Disconnect as described earlier, and
wrapping around the Trigger Group clear to the same place on the
opposite side. This little gizmo, if made right, will 'slide'
back and forth. Full Auto will have it fully to the rear, Semi-
will be had by pushing it forward, jamming it between the Hammer
and the Disconnect. It's more of a Pain in the ass than it's
worth, though, since you can actually shoot Double-taps within
the first ten rounds you ever load - And you should find yourself
shooting singles within the first twenty.
Here's a Bonus. Save yourself $20 or so and KEEP YOUR BAYONET
USEFUL. Cut your own "Muzzle Brake"/"Compensator". All it takes
is a Hacksaw and a pocket knife or screw-driver. Look at your
front sight. You'll see it's a got an 'integral sleeve' on it.
Lay your Hacksaw on that sleeve, about 3/16 of an inch from the
BACK (Your on the Sleeve NOT The Barrel) - Angle the saw at about
45 Degrees (The Top of the Saw angled toward the Receiver) and
begin cutting.
First you'll cut through the sleeve, and then through the barrel.
Cut a little shy of the half-way mark (You want SOME Barrel
there, and you want the gas to go more "up" than "out"). Move the
blade about two blade widths forward (Toward the Sight base), and
cut another slot. You have room for about 5 slots if you done it
right. If you done it wrong, Hell! Just file out all the middle
'vents', leaving you a big gaping hole (I did that to mine as a
way to clear mud - I carry the gun over the Shoulder, muzzle down
- Sometimes when you sit down....uh....well, you know)
When you're done with the saw, use a pocket knife or screw-driver
to 'pick out' the burrs the saw left behind. When you fire the
gun, you will notice a 'difference' in the recoil. It's not less,
it's not more, it's just 'different'. But you will notice a BIG
Difference in your shot-string! All things being equal, the gun
wants to shoot in circles, instead of vertically!
Now you have a Comp' withOUT Sacrificing your Bayonet!
Mounting a Supressor is just a matter of using one of those "Slip
On"/'Turn-n-Lock' Muzzle Brakes first - This will seal the
Integral Brake you cut in, and it gives you a 'Mounting Point' by
allowing you to thread the full length of the External Brake.
A Supressor is really nothing more than a couple of tubes, one
smaller than the other, some steel wool or fiberglass batting, a
3/8" dowel, a couple of Toilet "Flapper Valves", and two end caps
to fit the larger of your tubes.
Place the dowel in the smaller tube (1 inch I.D. Schedule 80
PVC Pipe is good, so is the heavier Electrical Conduit. Schedule
40 Steel Pipe is the best, but it's a Blue-Whale to hold when
finished). Fill the tube, around the dowel, with Steel Wool or
fiberglass (Fiberglass is the Quietest - But Always use SOME
steel wool at the gun's muzzle-end anyway - Helps prevent the
Fiberglass from blowing back into the action). Keep the Dowel as
close to the middle of the pipe as you can - This will be the
Bullet Path when you take the dowel out.
Now put one of the Toilet "Flapper Valves" at one end of the
larger (Inch and a Half Inner Diamater) tube. You'll notice the
'Flapper' is Hollow - With an opening at the bottom of it's Cone
Shaped 'Skirt' - This opening faces INTO the Tube - The Outside
Solid Wall of the Flaper faces the OUTSIDE End of the Tube. It's
not necessary, but it's 'good luck' to cut an "X" in the middle
of the Flapper's Solid Wall - This eliminates any danger of any
real pressure build-up.
Now take your other Flapper and cut a hole in it's Solid Wall the
same size as your threaded Muzzle Brake. Take the dowel out of
your smaller tube and insert this tube into the larger one. Place
the other Flapper at this end where your gun muzzle will fit.
Put a 3/8ths inch hole in one Cap and put that cap on the FAR End
where the bullet will be leaving the supressor.
Drill and Tap a hole in the other cap to fit the threads you cut
into your muzzle brake. Place this cap on the opposite end of
your now completed Supressor.
Your rifle now sounds like a weirded-out sound effect! Nothing at
all like in the movies - Quieter as far as Muzzle Blast is
concerned, but it still hurts your ears right through your eyes!
I Cut the one I had down to about 9 inches and placed it on a
Ruger MK 1 22 Semi-Auto where it has remained to this day. This
works much better than trying to hush the Mach II velocities of
Centerfire Rifle Ammo.
If the demand is there, I'll make up an Addendum for the AK.
Since that Conversion can only be made by installing a Parts Kit,
though, I doubt it will ever be very necessary. But who knows.
Since SK's are running at about $100, even an AK owner may think
twice about investing in a Parts Kit since you can have a Full
Auto SK for the same (actually less) money!
Hope this was of some value.
Neil :rolleyes:
Here's a few sks sears required to convert to Full-auto.
Sear 1:
http://www.geocities.com/hiveaddict2000/sear1.jpg
Sear 2:
http://www.geocities.com/hiveaddict2000/sear2.jpg
Sear 3:
http://www.geocities.com/hiveaddict2000/sear3.jpg