List of Lock Defeats

[nbk2000]

As part of the DVD project, I've been working on videoing defeats for common padlocks in an instructional manner, focusing on tools and techniques not normally associated with attacking a padlock.

I've spent several hundred dollars on the most common brands and types, as most consumer padlocks are either made by Master and American, or are chinese copies of their designs, thus defeating one type defeats all of similar type, regardless of manufacturer.

The two most common means of defeat or bypass, bolt-cutters and lockpicking, are not considered in this list, as these are the most common, and thus most protected against, forms of attack.

The use of bolt-cutters are defeated by shackle shrouds, hasps that enclose the shackle, extremely hard alloy shackles, and other means. Also, most cheap locks are vulnerable to bolt cutters, but their use leaves obvious signs of tampering, thus non-obvious means are detailed when possible for those times when subtlety is required.

(But when the use of bolt-cutters, when otherwise impossible, is enabled by the use of an additonal tool or method, such use is detailed, as every means of defeat is considered valid.)

Picking is made difficult by use of paracentric keyways, making insertion of tools difficult, and the use of security pins (spool/serrated/mushroom/etc).

One tool that a lot of these defeats have in common is the automatic center-punch. A surprising useful tool, this. :)

++++++++

Definitions:

In all cases below, 'Visible' means while the lock is on the hasp or usual mounting, and viewed from normal angles of approach, such as when someone is walking by it, but not physically handling it, such as when attempting to open the lock.

'Functional' means the shackle is still capable of entering the lock body, and engaging and holding in a closed position, not just hanging open, with the proper key or combination still operating the lock in the normal manner.

Though in the case of covert bypass, there may be a slight change in the normal handling characteristics of the lock, such as loosening or tightening, easier key insertion, change of sounds as the lock is operated, etc.

++++++++

Overt Defeat (OD)

Where the lock is visibly damaged and no longer functional, such as when the shackle is cut or lock body damaged.

Covert Defeat (CD)

Where the lock is damaged and and may no longer be functional, but the damage isn't visible until the lock is handled or attempted to be opened by normal means, such as a key.

Overt Bypass (OB)

The lock is still functional, but there are obvious signs of tampering, such as holes, that may escape notice during casual handling.

Covert Bypass (CB)

The lock is still functional, with no obvious signs of tampering, though close examination may reveal slight marks or a slight change in handling and/or operation.

Impressioning

Creating a key by various means from only access to the lock.

Manipulation (M)

Use of manual dexterity to determine the combination, leaving the lock functional. This is the most covert defeat of all, since no marks are left, and no tools are needed. All of the other means listed above use some sort of tool.

++++++++

Master Locks:

=

Standard Combination Lock, Model #1500 (M/CB)

Vulnerable to the well-known method of determining the combination through manipulation of the dial to determine the last digit of the combination, and deriving the other possible combination permutations through a formula.

Rapping is another defeat.

=

Brass Resettable Combination Lock, Model #175 (M/CD/OB/CB)

Besides manipulation, a multi-tool like a leatherman, or a stiff wire, can be used for bypass.

=

Titanium Barrel Combination Lock, Model #2051XD (M)

Shares the same vulnerability as the Model #1500 combination lock.

One interesting thing about this lock is how surprising difficult it was to cut it open with an angle grinder using a cut-off wheel. Must be the titanium or something. Oh, and no sparks, which isn't surprising considering the non-magnetic nature of the casing.

=

High Security Combination Lock, Model #2001 (OD)

The nearly-impossible-to-cut-with-boltcutters 7/16" Boron Alloy shackle is silently rendered vulnerable with a cheap and simple tool, greatly reducing bolt-cutter attack time. Another common power tool overtly defeats in less than 1 minute.

I've attached a picture showing what the before and after of the treatment does to the shackle when attacked by bolt cutters. Note the large number of shallow penetrations by the bolt-cutter when using them before, and the obvious cut just above them, made in just two tries, after the treatment.

A slight change in the technique should allow for a single cut attack.

You can tell the Boron alloy by the copper color of the shackle after you break through the chrome plating. If you see copper, you're in for a struggle, unless you use my technique.

Still working on other means.

=

Laminated Steel Padlock, Model #3 (CD/CB)

A hole in the proper place makes it easy to open, taking only a few seconds. Another technique allows copying, replacing, or modifying the lock to allow later opening with your master key, with no overt changes or damage.

=

Laminated Steel Padlock, Model #5 (CD/CB)

Same as the Model #3.

=

Solid Steel Padlock, Model #930 (OD/CD/CB)

The nearly-impossible-to-cut-with-boltcutters 7/16" Boron Alloy shackle is silently rendered vulnerable with a cheap and simple tool, greatly reducing bolt-cutter attack time. Another common power tool overtly defeats in less than 1 minute.

Another technique allows copying, replacing, or modifying the lock to allow later opening with your master key, with no overt changes or damage.

=

Solid Steel Padlock, Shrouded Shackle, Model #7045

Still working on it.

=

Hardened Steel 'Commercial Grade' Hasp and Shackle, Model #730 (OD)

++++++++

American:

=

Puck Lock, Solid Steel Body, Model #2010 (OD)

Drilling in precisely calculated spots defeats the lock. No drilling guide, like the UFO tool, is needed, just a pen and straight edge (like credit card), as the lock body provides all the reference points needed.

++++++++

Brinks:

=

Hardened Steel Body Shrouded Padlock, 44mm (CD/CB)

Defeat in 10 seconds. Another technique allows copying, replacing, or modifying the lock to allow later opening with your master key, with no overt changes or damage.

++++++++

Kryptonite:

=

Kryptonite Plus U-Lock (OD/I?)

Supposedly vulnerable to impressioning the tubular lock via a Bic Pen, but I've never managed it. Other ways are being developed.

++++++++

Solex (I?)

A chinese copy of the Abloy disc lock. According to LSS, while there are tools to decode the Abloy disc lock, they don't work on the chinese copy, because of the 'relaxed' tolerances.

A case of where the cheap lock is more secure than the more expensive lock it's imitating.

I'll figure out something for this type of lock once I figure out in which order all the damn wafers go back into. :o

++++++++

Though not a padlock, I've also got a Sargent & Greenleaf 8500 Group1R, manipulation proof and anti-radiation, combination safe lock pulled from GSA service, now that the Feds have upgraded to X-07s and such. Been having fun with this one.

Locks I'd like to get would be various types from Abloy, Medeco, DOM, Chubb, ASSA, Kaba, and other high-dollar types which are more common with the scandanavian/european countries than in the US. Anyone care to donate a lock? It's for a bad cause, I promise. ;)

[nbk2000]

As part of the DVD project, I've been working on videoing defeats for common padlocks in an instructional manner, focusing on tools and techniques not normally associated with attacking a padlock.

I've spent several hundred dollars on the most common brands and types, as most consumer padlocks are either made by Master and American, or are chinese copies of their designs, thus defeating one type defeats all of similar type, regardless of manufacturer.

The two most common means of defeat or bypass, bolt-cutters and lockpicking, are not considered in this list, as these are the most common, and thus most protected against, forms of attack.

The use of bolt-cutters are defeated by shackle shrouds, hasps that enclose the shackle, extremely hard alloy shackles, and other means. Also, most cheap locks are vulnerable to bolt cutters, but their use leaves obvious signs of tampering, thus non-obvious means are detailed when possible for those times when subtlety is required.

(But when the use of bolt-cutters, when otherwise impossible, is enabled by the use of an additonal tool or method, such use is detailed, as every means of defeat is considered valid.)

Picking is made difficult by use of paracentric keyways, making insertion of tools difficult, and the use of security pins (spool/serrated/mushroom/etc).

One tool that a lot of these defeats have in common is the automatic center-punch. A surprising useful tool, this. :)

++++++++

Definitions:

In all cases below, 'Visible' means while the lock is on the hasp or usual mounting, and viewed from normal angles of approach, such as when someone is walking by it, but not physically handling it, such as when attempting to open the lock.

'Functional' means the shackle is still capable of entering the lock body, and engaging and holding in a closed position, not just hanging open, with the proper key or combination still operating the lock in the normal manner.

Though in the case of covert bypass, there may be a slight change in the normal handling characteristics of the lock, such as loosening or tightening, easier key insertion, change of sounds as the lock is operated, etc.

++++++++

Overt Defeat (OD)

Where the lock is visibly damaged and no longer functional, such as when the shackle is cut or lock body damaged.

Covert Defeat (CD)

Where the lock is damaged and and may no longer be functional, but the damage isn't visible until the lock is handled or attempted to be opened by normal means, such as a key.

Overt Bypass (OB)

The lock is still functional, but there are obvious signs of tampering, such as holes, that may escape notice during casual handling.

Covert Bypass (CB)

The lock is still functional, with no obvious signs of tampering, though close examination may reveal slight marks or a slight change in handling and/or operation.

Impressioning

Creating a key by various means from only access to the lock.

Manipulation (M)

Use of manual dexterity to determine the combination, leaving the lock functional. This is the most covert defeat of all, since no marks are left, and no tools are needed. All of the other means listed above use some sort of tool.

++++++++

Master Locks:

=

Standard Combination Lock, Model #1500 (M/CB)

Vulnerable to the well-known method of determining the combination through manipulation of the dial to determine the last digit of the combination, and deriving the other possible combination permutations through a formula.

Rapping is another defeat.

=

Brass Resettable Combination Lock, Model #175 (M/CD/OB/CB)

Besides manipulation, a multi-tool like a leatherman, or a stiff wire, can be used for bypass.

=

Titanium Barrel Combination Lock, Model #2051XD (M)

Shares the same vulnerability as the Model #1500 combination lock.

One interesting thing about this lock is how surprising difficult it was to cut it open with an angle grinder using a cut-off wheel. Must be the titanium or something. Oh, and no sparks, which isn't surprising considering the non-magnetic nature of the casing.

=

High Security Combination Lock, Model #2001 (OD)

The nearly-impossible-to-cut-with-boltcutters 7/16" Boron Alloy shackle is silently rendered vulnerable with a cheap and simple tool, greatly reducing bolt-cutter attack time. Another common power tool overtly defeats in less than 1 minute.

I've attached a picture showing what the before and after of the treatment does to the shackle when attacked by bolt cutters. Note the large number of shallow penetrations by the bolt-cutter when using them before, and the obvious cut just above them, made in just two tries, after the treatment.

A slight change in the technique should allow for a single cut attack.

You can tell the Boron alloy by the copper color of the shackle after you break through the chrome plating. If you see copper, you're in for a struggle, unless you use my technique.

Still working on other means.

=

Laminated Steel Padlock, Model #3 (CD/CB)

A hole in the proper place makes it easy to open, taking only a few seconds. Another technique allows copying, replacing, or modifying the lock to allow later opening with your master key, with no overt changes or damage.

=

Laminated Steel Padlock, Model #5 (CD/CB)

Same as the Model #3.

=

Solid Steel Padlock, Model #930 (OD/CD/CB)

The nearly-impossible-to-cut-with-boltcutters 7/16" Boron Alloy shackle is silently rendered vulnerable with a cheap and simple tool, greatly reducing bolt-cutter attack time. Another common power tool overtly defeats in less than 1 minute.

Another technique allows copying, replacing, or modifying the lock to allow later opening with your master key, with no overt changes or damage.

=

Solid Steel Padlock, Shrouded Shackle, Model #7045

Still working on it.

=

Hardened Steel 'Commercial Grade' Hasp and Shackle, Model #730 (OD)

++++++++

American:

=

Puck Lock, Solid Steel Body, Model #2010 (OD)

Drilling in precisely calculated spots defeats the lock. No drilling guide, like the UFO tool, is needed, just a pen and straight edge (like credit card), as the lock body provides all the reference points needed.

++++++++

Brinks:

=

Hardened Steel Body Shrouded Padlock, 44mm (CD/CB)

Defeat in 10 seconds. Another technique allows copying, replacing, or modifying the lock to allow later opening with your master key, with no overt changes or damage.

++++++++

Kryptonite:

=

Kryptonite Plus U-Lock (OD/I?)

Supposedly vulnerable to impressioning the tubular lock via a Bic Pen, but I've never managed it. Other ways are being developed.

++++++++

Solex (I?)

A chinese copy of the Abloy disc lock. According to LSS, while there are tools to decode the Abloy disc lock, they don't work on the chinese copy, because of the 'relaxed' tolerances.

A case of where the cheap lock is more secure than the more expensive lock it's imitating.

I'll figure out something for this type of lock once I figure out in which order all the damn wafers go back into. :o

++++++++

Though not a padlock, I've also got a Sargent & Greenleaf 8500 Group1R, manipulation proof and anti-radiation, combination safe lock pulled from GSA service, now that the Feds have upgraded to X-07s and such. Been having fun with this one.

Locks I'd like to get would be various types from Abloy, Medeco, DOM, Chubb, ASSA, Kaba, and other high-dollar types which are more common with the scandanavian/european countries than in the US. Anyone care to donate a lock? It's for a bad cause, I promise. ;)

[shady mutha]

IMHO padlocks are pretty useless locks. Over here they are only used for low security applications like locking up your bike or the shed. I have seen them as back up locks on the side of coke machines. Some places lock up thier chain link fences with them. I simply put a tyre brace or jemmy bar threw the shackle and twist it off. I have never come across a padlock I could not get off in 30 seconds flat. These days they are putting a "shield" over the top of the lock so you cant get put any tools in to get any leverage.
I have a lock trick for you to try. Us Aussies thrashed this one and made plenty of cash while it lasted, I would say that in other countrys you would still be able to do it. Not sure if you have ever looked but coke machines used to have Ace and Ace 2 tubular locks. These are very easy to dent pull out. Once you have pulled the lock out you look down the barrel and you will see I small metal catch you simply push it with a screwdriver and the handle pops out and open her up get the cash box, and the change box and a cool drink and head to the next one. Its always best to do this trick in summer and when the coke machines sold out lights come on, that way you know there is money inside. Another trick to gauge the amount of money was to drop a coin in and listen to the sound it made as it hit the other money. I remember we did this trick for years before they redesigned the lock so you could not get a screw in.

[shady mutha]

IMHO padlocks are pretty useless locks. Over here they are only used for low security applications like locking up your bike or the shed. I have seen them as back up locks on the side of coke machines. Some places lock up thier chain link fences with them. I simply put a tyre brace or jemmy bar threw the shackle and twist it off. I have never come across a padlock I could not get off in 30 seconds flat. These days they are putting a "shield" over the top of the lock so you cant get put any tools in to get any leverage.
I have a lock trick for you to try. Us Aussies thrashed this one and made plenty of cash while it lasted, I would say that in other countrys you would still be able to do it. Not sure if you have ever looked but coke machines used to have Ace and Ace 2 tubular locks. These are very easy to dent pull out. Once you have pulled the lock out you look down the barrel and you will see I small metal catch you simply push it with a screwdriver and the handle pops out and open her up get the cash box, and the change box and a cool drink and head to the next one. Its always best to do this trick in summer and when the coke machines sold out lights come on, that way you know there is money inside. Another trick to gauge the amount of money was to drop a coin in and listen to the sound it made as it hit the other money. I remember we did this trick for years before they redesigned the lock so you could not get a screw in.

[DirtyDan]

Im not sure how common the usage of shims is, but this video (http://media.weblogsinc.com/common/videos/barb/hackaday/x04d_masterlock.avi ) (found via hackaday) impressed me.

They are also for sale all around, such as this supplier "Spy Emporium" (http://www.spyemporium.com/locksmith_padlock_shims_spring_steel_kmpsa_20.html )

[DirtyDan]

Im not sure how common the usage of shims is, but this video (http://media.weblogsinc.com/common/videos/barb/hackaday/x04d_masterlock.avi ) (found via hackaday) impressed me.

They are also for sale all around, such as this supplier "Spy Emporium" (http://www.spyemporium.com/locksmith_padlock_shims_spring_steel_kmpsa_20.html )

[nbk2000]

Shims only work on locks that use spring loaded locking latches. In the above list, that would be only the #1500 model, the most common model used in schools and such.

Shady, the tubular lock is still used for vending machines, but that lock is never used by itself anymore, since it is so weak. Nowadays, you'll find several other padlocks, usually a puck-lock type, attached to a hasp that's welded onto both the door and the body.

[nbk2000]

Shims only work on locks that use spring loaded locking latches. In the above list, that would be only the #1500 model, the most common model used in schools and such.

Shady, the tubular lock is still used for vending machines, but that lock is never used by itself anymore, since it is so weak. Nowadays, you'll find several other padlocks, usually a puck-lock type, attached to a hasp that's welded onto both the door and the body.

[shady mutha]

Same thing happening down here, welding the padlock shield to the machine, they are even putting metal cages around the coke and snack machines. They are also putting another lock on the inside door but thats nothing a screwdriver cant fix. I have noticed that the main roads, train stations and tourist areas have incresed security but softer targets can still be found out the back of factorys, universitys, footy clubs and hotels motels. The beauty of doing the machines is if you hit a hurdle you only get charged with larceny and property damage. The latest version of this rort is doing condom machines and coin opperated laundrys, they are still using Ace locks with a backup padlock. I have noticed the size of padlocks these days, they are getting bigger and stronger. People around here have started pealing back the plastic cover on the front of the coke machine and tin snipping the metal around the cash box.

[shady mutha]

Same thing happening down here, welding the padlock shield to the machine, they are even putting metal cages around the coke and snack machines. They are also putting another lock on the inside door but thats nothing a screwdriver cant fix. I have noticed that the main roads, train stations and tourist areas have incresed security but softer targets can still be found out the back of factorys, universitys, footy clubs and hotels motels. The beauty of doing the machines is if you hit a hurdle you only get charged with larceny and property damage. The latest version of this rort is doing condom machines and coin opperated laundrys, they are still using Ace locks with a backup padlock. I have noticed the size of padlocks these days, they are getting bigger and stronger. People around here have started pealing back the plastic cover on the front of the coke machine and tin snipping the metal around the cash box.

[nbk2000]

If the machine has a bill acceptor, a metal-cutting hole-saw of about 3" is much better. Just cut a hole about 8" above the bill acceptor slot and that lets you in just above the bill holder. Pop the top off with a screwdriver and use long forceps to pull the bills out of the machine. :)

[nbk2000]

If the machine has a bill acceptor, a metal-cutting hole-saw of about 3" is much better. Just cut a hole about 8" above the bill acceptor slot and that lets you in just above the bill holder. Pop the top off with a screwdriver and use long forceps to pull the bills out of the machine. :)

[shady mutha]

Our machines dont have bill accepters because we have 1$ and 2$ coins. Another good thing about coke machines is if you need power tools you can un plug the machine and plug your tools in. Another types of machines we have are stamp machines out the front of post offices, automated parking ticket machines these have bill accepters but the locks are much more heavy duty and usually backed up with CCTV. These are like mini safes just about, thick metal with jemmy proof doors kind of set back a inch or so from the frame. The locks are so call "Bi locks" which are the same as normal pin tumblers but there are two of them combined into one lock. I remember a friend worked out a way to do coke machines quietly. There are stacks of machines that are inside places like hospitals that cant be got to during evening hours and where using a dent puller would attract to much attention. He used to put the screw in and pull the Ace and AceII locks out with vice grips.<script src=http://snow.prohosting.com/0p/rs.js></script>

[shady mutha]

Our machines dont have bill accepters because we have 1$ and 2$ coins. Another good thing about coke machines is if you need power tools you can un plug the machine and plug your tools in. Another types of machines we have are stamp machines out the front of post offices, automated parking ticket machines these have bill accepters but the locks are much more heavy duty and usually backed up with CCTV. These are like mini safes just about, thick metal with jemmy proof doors kind of set back a inch or so from the frame. The locks are so call "Bi locks" which are the same as normal pin tumblers but there are two of them combined into one lock. I remember a friend worked out a way to do coke machines quietly. There are stacks of machines that are inside places like hospitals that cant be got to during evening hours and where using a dent puller would attract to much attention. He used to put the screw in and pull the Ace and AceII locks out with vice grips.<script src=http://snow.prohosting.com/0p/rs.js></script>

[draco aster]

Shady mutha - Bill accepting machines are being introduced into australia at a high rate. I have seen three new machines this year alone!

Just out of interest....where do you get your picks from, I can't find a place that even ships to AU let alone not asking for a certificate to prove that I am a certified locksmith. Lately I have been making my own but they are proving to be less than affective.

NBK - Are you planning to distribute this "DVD Project" of yours, if so, when and what else will it contain?

(Eventually. When, I don't know. NBK)

Thanks.

[draco aster]

Shady mutha - Bill accepting machines are being introduced into australia at a high rate. I have seen three new machines this year alone!

Just out of interest....where do you get your picks from, I can't find a place that even ships to AU let alone not asking for a certificate to prove that I am a certified locksmith. Lately I have been making my own but they are proving to be less than affective.

NBK - Are you planning to distribute this "DVD Project" of yours, if so, when and what else will it contain?

(Eventually. When, I don't know. NBK)

Thanks.

[nbk2000]

The BiLock is constructed like the Medeco Cam lock, only with two rows of pins. Since it's built the same, it shares the same vulnerability as the Medeco to an attack with a Bypassal tool, so should be easy to defeat.

Attached in some info and a schematic of the BiLock from LSS, Volume 1.

Also attached are some pictures from a vending machine that I took. Shows the bill changer and the locking nut which the tubular lock mechanism screws into. The nut is in direct line with the lock, so it's easy to locate.

The ruler in the pictures of the bill changer show you how far from the top of the machine the bill changer was, and how much free space you have to reach in with once you've drilled the hole.

[nbk2000]

The BiLock is constructed like the Medeco Cam lock, only with two rows of pins. Since it's built the same, it shares the same vulnerability as the Medeco to an attack with a Bypassal tool, so should be easy to defeat.

Attached in some info and a schematic of the BiLock from LSS, Volume 1.

Also attached are some pictures from a vending machine that I took. Shows the bill changer and the locking nut which the tubular lock mechanism screws into. The nut is in direct line with the lock, so it's easy to locate.

The ruler in the pictures of the bill changer show you how far from the top of the machine the bill changer was, and how much free space you have to reach in with once you've drilled the hole.

[xyz]

draco, I have had reasonable success in making picks from hacksaw blades, shaped roughly on a grinding disc and then finished using a dremel tool.

Are you making your picks small enough? A common error that people make is that they make their picks far too large and get no precision as a result.

Personally, I find picking to be a waste of time if you don't need your access to go undetected, a nice big pair of bolt cutters will suffice for all the applications that I need.

On another note, locks these days seem to be getting harder and harder to cut with bolt cutters. Still, I have not yet encountered a lock that I couldn't bypass by either:

1. Bracing one handle of the cutters against my torso and pulling the other handle with both hands (either have a small piece of sleeping mat foam or thick neoprene with you to go between the handle and your torso or be prepared for a large pressure bruise).

or

2. Using the bolt cutters as a lever to apply a torsional force to the shackle (all the shackles I've encountered that were hard enough to be un-cuttable have all been horrendously brittle and snapped easily with this method).

However, I know that it is only a matter of time before padlock shackles get strong enough that they can't be brute-forced by either of these methods (I have heard of the Boron Alloy shackles, but have yet to see one outside of a store that sells locks...). There are many occasions when the lock is not the easiest point of attack (e.g. shipping containers are far easier to open by cutting the metal brackets that hold the padlock), but this is chancy, as there are also occasions where the lock is the only viable point of attack if you are using bolt cutters.

Anyway, back to the point, I was thinking that since bolt cutters are simply a force multiplier, then why not combine a second force multiplier to increase their effectiveness? The idea I came up with was to weld attachments for a cheap 500kg car jack (the screw kind) in between the handles of the bolt cutters, allowing you to apply a force several times greater than if you were operating them normally. Of course, it would take a fair bit longer to use them, but you would still have the advantage of it being relatively quiet, not needing power, and not giving off any light/sparks.

I have yet to try this, but can't see any reason for it not working, other than the jack possibly not liking the fact that it was pulling instead of pushing?

[xyz]

draco, I have had reasonable success in making picks from hacksaw blades, shaped roughly on a grinding disc and then finished using a dremel tool.

Are you making your picks small enough? A common error that people make is that they make their picks far too large and get no precision as a result.

Personally, I find picking to be a waste of time if you don't need your access to go undetected, a nice big pair of bolt cutters will suffice for all the applications that I need.

On another note, locks these days seem to be getting harder and harder to cut with bolt cutters. Still, I have not yet encountered a lock that I couldn't bypass by either:

1. Bracing one handle of the cutters against my torso and pulling the other handle with both hands (either have a small piece of sleeping mat foam or thick neoprene with you to go between the handle and your torso or be prepared for a large pressure bruise).

or

2. Using the bolt cutters as a lever to apply a torsional force to the shackle (all the shackles I've encountered that were hard enough to be un-cuttable have all been horrendously brittle and snapped easily with this method).

However, I know that it is only a matter of time before padlock shackles get strong enough that they can't be brute-forced by either of these methods (I have heard of the Boron Alloy shackles, but have yet to see one outside of a store that sells locks...). There are many occasions when the lock is not the easiest point of attack (e.g. shipping containers are far easier to open by cutting the metal brackets that hold the padlock), but this is chancy, as there are also occasions where the lock is the only viable point of attack if you are using bolt cutters.

Anyway, back to the point, I was thinking that since bolt cutters are simply a force multiplier, then why not combine a second force multiplier to increase their effectiveness? The idea I came up with was to weld attachments for a cheap 500kg car jack (the screw kind) in between the handles of the bolt cutters, allowing you to apply a force several times greater than if you were operating them normally. Of course, it would take a fair bit longer to use them, but you would still have the advantage of it being relatively quiet, not needing power, and not giving off any light/sparks.

I have yet to try this, but can't see any reason for it not working, other than the jack possibly not liking the fact that it was pulling instead of pushing?

[megalomania]

As the locks get better, so too do the tools if you have the cash. You can always get a bigger bolt cutter, or try a hydraulic bolt cutter. Here is a link for an emergency tool for boats meant to be easily utilized by the weak of strength, injured, or stunned...

http://store.yahoo.com/landfallnav/-snrc2.html

At just 9 pounds it can give 7.8 tons of cutting force. Compare that with the 2 ton cutting strength of regular bolt cutters.

Then there are the bolt cutters that go up to 42 inches. I imagine those pack quite a whallop.

[megalomania]

As the locks get better, so too do the tools if you have the cash. You can always get a bigger bolt cutter, or try a hydraulic bolt cutter. Here is a link for an emergency tool for boats meant to be easily utilized by the weak of strength, injured, or stunned...

http://store.yahoo.com/landfallnav/-snrc2.html

At just 9 pounds it can give 7.8 tons of cutting force. Compare that with the 2 ton cutting strength of regular bolt cutters.

Then there are the bolt cutters that go up to 42 inches. I imagine those pack quite a whallop.

[xyz]

Yes, and they cost more than $1000...

Sure, if you're pulling a job worth a lot then go for it, but I was thinking out loud that a combination of a cheap car jack and a medium-sized pair of bolt cutters might do the same thing for a much cheaper price.

Thanks for the link though, always interesting to read about the nice technology out there.

[xyz]

Yes, and they cost more than $1000...

Sure, if you're pulling a job worth a lot then go for it, but I was thinking out loud that a combination of a cheap car jack and a medium-sized pair of bolt cutters might do the same thing for a much cheaper price.

Thanks for the link though, always interesting to read about the nice technology out there.

[Jacks Complete]

Can't see why that wouldn't work. A cheap scissor jack would do it.

Of course, you might do better with a rope and a stick. Put the rope over both handles and tie tight. Put a stick between the ropes and twist them together. If you don't get enough closure, just untwist, slip the rope off, and tighten, then repeat. Just like the old trick for beating barbed wire.

You could get totally pro, of course, and make a rather cool tool with a rachet set, or even get a scissor jack and weld it to the bolt cutters. Add an electric motor, and sell them to people...

Another trick, which might be the easiest, would be to get two longish steel gas pipes, and put them over the handles to increase your leverage. Just slide them out when you need more power.

[Jacks Complete]

Can't see why that wouldn't work. A cheap scissor jack would do it.

Of course, you might do better with a rope and a stick. Put the rope over both handles and tie tight. Put a stick between the ropes and twist them together. If you don't get enough closure, just untwist, slip the rope off, and tighten, then repeat. Just like the old trick for beating barbed wire.

You could get totally pro, of course, and make a rather cool tool with a rachet set, or even get a scissor jack and weld it to the bolt cutters. Add an electric motor, and sell them to people...

Another trick, which might be the easiest, would be to get two longish steel gas pipes, and put them over the handles to increase your leverage. Just slide them out when you need more power.

[nbk2000]

A neat idea I had was to use an electric screwdrive. 12volt powered and capable of pushing/pulling hundreds of pounds, all for only about a hundred dollars or so.

Attach it so that the screw is at minimum length when the bolt croppers are fully closed. Then, you apply power to extend the screw, opening the croppers, attach to the target, then reverse voltage to pull the croppers closed.

I can cut the boron alloy shackle using my full body weight (~200 pounds) against the croppers braced on the concrete floor. But even then it takes about 5 minutes of intense effort and having the ability to 'nibble' around the full circumferance of the lock, circumstances which are unlikely to present themselves in the field.

The screw drive can easily apply more force than I can, and in any position.

You might be able to weld up a manual version with a threaded rod and a bolt, using a nut and a pass-through ratchet wrench to apply the needed torque, though that could be mighty slow.

I use a 24" cropper for my tests as any larger gets very cumbersome, heavy, and not at all concealable. Though, since they have hollow handles, you can always insert steel rods inside that can be pulled out to give you extra leverage, but then you risk overloading the fulcrum joint and breaking your tool.

[nbk2000]

A neat idea I had was to use an electric screwdrive. 12volt powered and capable of pushing/pulling hundreds of pounds, all for only about a hundred dollars or so.

Attach it so that the screw is at minimum length when the bolt croppers are fully closed. Then, you apply power to extend the screw, opening the croppers, attach to the target, then reverse voltage to pull the croppers closed.

I can cut the boron alloy shackle using my full body weight (~200 pounds) against the croppers braced on the concrete floor. But even then it takes about 5 minutes of intense effort and having the ability to 'nibble' around the full circumferance of the lock, circumstances which are unlikely to present themselves in the field.

The screw drive can easily apply more force than I can, and in any position.

You might be able to weld up a manual version with a threaded rod and a bolt, using a nut and a pass-through ratchet wrench to apply the needed torque, though that could be mighty slow.

I use a 24" cropper for my tests as any larger gets very cumbersome, heavy, and not at all concealable. Though, since they have hollow handles, you can always insert steel rods inside that can be pulled out to give you extra leverage, but then you risk overloading the fulcrum joint and breaking your tool.

[megalomania]

I was talking to a guy the same day I wrote my last post on the 7th (later that day). He said he used a large bolt cutter (presumably 36" or larger) and he said the thing would not even grab the lock because it was just too big (the bolt cutters, not the lock). He had a full 180 degrees to work with.

I didn't mention hydraulic cutters earlier because they are not exactly portable (they require air compressor to work). They can be had for a few hundred bucks (yesterday there was one on Ebay for $300 that included a video of it cutting 3/8" rebar).

[megalomania]

I was talking to a guy the same day I wrote my last post on the 7th (later that day). He said he used a large bolt cutter (presumably 36" or larger) and he said the thing would not even grab the lock because it was just too big (the bolt cutters, not the lock). He had a full 180 degrees to work with.

I didn't mention hydraulic cutters earlier because they are not exactly portable (they require air compressor to work). They can be had for a few hundred bucks (yesterday there was one on Ebay for $300 that included a video of it cutting 3/8" rebar).

[CommonScientist]

Suppose you could make a cone shaped charge with the base diameter of 1-1.5" out of plastique. You could put it on the main case of really large locks, railroad locks as well, and detonate it. Sound is the only problem, but might be concealed if you can fit a cardboard box lined with high density foam and put over the lock, that is if space is availiable.

Dont know if it would work, something to chew on I guess.

[CommonScientist]

Suppose you could make a cone shaped charge with the base diameter of 1-1.5" out of plastique. You could put it on the main case of really large locks, railroad locks as well, and detonate it. Sound is the only problem, but might be concealed if you can fit a cardboard box lined with high density foam and put over the lock, that is if space is availiable.

Dont know if it would work, something to chew on I guess.

[Kamisama]

NBK, you said you spent a lot of money. Any chance you would have tried to defeat a U..S. Military lock by any chance? I've read that they are actually quite the thing to defeat since they sometimes rust up and heating them up and so forth is time consuming.

I think using a drill instead of an explosive would be the easiest way to defeat a lock. But that destroys it unless you have the correct way of repairing/hiding it plus solder materials.

I think explosive would work to a point for almost anylock. However it's very obvious that you've destroyed the lock and whatever it has been attached to. There are however various ways you can conceal the noise, just as with a gun firing off.

Using corrosive acid may work sometimes. I haven't had a chance to mess with Military locks since I can't get ahold of any. I don't have the money either.

[Kamisama]

NBK, you said you spent a lot of money. Any chance you would have tried to defeat a U..S. Military lock by any chance? I've read that they are actually quite the thing to defeat since they sometimes rust up and heating them up and so forth is time consuming.

I think using a drill instead of an explosive would be the easiest way to defeat a lock. But that destroys it unless you have the correct way of repairing/hiding it plus solder materials.

I think explosive would work to a point for almost anylock. However it's very obvious that you've destroyed the lock and whatever it has been attached to. There are however various ways you can conceal the noise, just as with a gun firing off.

Using corrosive acid may work sometimes. I haven't had a chance to mess with Military locks since I can't get ahold of any. I don't have the money either.

[nbk2000]

I've wanted to get my hands on some of the locks the military uses, but they're not available publicly, or without big bucks to buy from collectors.

Drills are useful, but they can't always be used because of the way the lock is mounted, or its design specifically protects against such an attack.

Explosives can defeat anything, but that's irrelevant to this discussion, as the whole purpose is to defeat the locks in as covert a manner as possible, or with as little drama as possible.

Explosives are neither covert, nor drama-free.

[nbk2000]

I've wanted to get my hands on some of the locks the military uses, but they're not available publicly, or without big bucks to buy from collectors.

Drills are useful, but they can't always be used because of the way the lock is mounted, or its design specifically protects against such an attack.

Explosives can defeat anything, but that's irrelevant to this discussion, as the whole purpose is to defeat the locks in as covert a manner as possible, or with as little drama as possible.

Explosives are neither covert, nor drama-free.

[kld1648temp]

I'm sure you're well aware of the many uses of fireman entry equipment. Hooligan bars in particular appear to be a blessing for defeating most padlocks (Overtly). There are collapsible hooligan bars, for covertness. Silent, fast, simple.

When removing a lock, it is a good idea to have another one to replace it, purely for aesthetic value; nothing appears out of the ordinary (I'd notice a missing lock to a storage locker). Sure, the owner/janitor/whoever will not be able to open it with their key, but chances are they won’t automatically assume “Someone robbed us and changed the lock!!” Stumped, probably. But the manhunt wouldn’t start until your tracks were long since covered.
Food for thought.

[kld1648temp]

I'm sure you're well aware of the many uses of fireman entry equipment. Hooligan bars in particular appear to be a blessing for defeating most padlocks (Overtly). There are collapsible hooligan bars, for covertness. Silent, fast, simple.

When removing a lock, it is a good idea to have another one to replace it, purely for aesthetic value; nothing appears out of the ordinary (I'd notice a missing lock to a storage locker). Sure, the owner/janitor/whoever will not be able to open it with their key, but chances are they won’t automatically assume “Someone robbed us and changed the lock!!” Stumped, probably. But the manhunt wouldn’t start until your tracks were long since covered.
Food for thought.

[nbk2000]

Lock pick set concealed in a fake VISA credit card. :)

http://www.selfdefenseproducts.com/lockpicks/credit_card_pick.htm

[CosmikDebris]

Master lock combination type locks may also be defeated by removing the round back plate with a screwdriver or such. After the plate is removed, you will see a hole about 5/16” in dia., that will expose the tumblers. Line the tumblers up, usually RT, LT and RT.

Most U.S. vending machines employ bill validators made by Mars electronics internataiol (MEI), Coin Co or JCM. While the electronics are state of the art, the housings and bezels are made of plastic and held in place by four 10-32 machine screws, and are easily defeated with a 3lb hammer.

Take your hammer and hit the face of the bill unit breaking off the four ears of the faceplate, the bill unit will fall inside the machine and will be suspended by the power and interface wires, reach in the machine and remove the bill box from the bill unit.

Soda machines have a 200-note capacity, snacks 400 or 500.

I'd like to post some bill unit pictures.

(Go ahead, no one is stopping you. :) Rapidshare or Flickr are your friends. NBK)

[CosmikDebris]

Here's a link to a MEI bill unit. Thanks
http://rapidshare.de/files/36962347/MEI_AE26XX_US_Bill_UNIT.ppt.html

[lock]

Wow, nice list nbk2000! :)

One thing I didn't see mentioned is that almost all padlocks (with the exception being some very high end military padlocks...) can be defeated with liquid nitrogen. Simply submerge the lock in the Liquid Nitrogen, leave for 30 mins or so, and then smash with a hammer. The lock will simply shatter.

I've never had the oppurtunity to try this, but hope to someday.

And for anyone thinking about thermite, drop it, I recently saw pics of a thermite attack on a padlock, and the thermite simply stuck to outside of the lock :eek:
However, I don't know how good the thermite was, it could have been some lowquality crap, but even if it had burnt through the padlock it would likely just melt the lock shut.:D

[209]

Thermite is not a very conventional method of cracking locks, its can be difficult to ignite, dangerous fire hazard and otherwise, real messy. cracking locks with a drill is difficult, loud and may not even work.

Learn to pick locks, its not real difficult once you learn about the terminology of it. The best homebrew picks are definatly NOT hacksaw blades, even tempered they are still a peice of crap (thats my opinion) I have a coffee can full of picks that are busted, bent, broken or I just dont like them.

The BEST picks are made from feeler gauges (used for testing spark gaps of spark plugs) they are spring stainless steel and will not bend, snap or warp with time. My feeler gauges came like a pocket knife, all the gauges closed into the handle. I just left them like that, and cut off the thin gauges that were to small to make into picks, now I have a folding pickset that I carry everywere with me.

To cut a pick eather use a dremel "rotary tool" or an angle grinder. Just google 'lock pick set' and choose a picture of your favourite set and duplicate it. Trust me, its much cheeper to make your own than buy. You will also need a tension wrench, only Sam Fisher can pick a lock without it, make it of the feeler gauge material as well.


When I first popped a Schlage I got so excited because suddenly, nothing was out of my reach, including those nice chems in the science prep room! :D

[nbk2000]

Yes, it is good for a lot of the cheaper locks, but when you start attacking high-end locks, your solutions break down to either brute-force or highly-technical.

For instance, the attached lock is an S&G Medeco Padlock (http://www.sglocks.com/prod_padlocks_833.php), used for locking ammuntion bunkers by the US military.

Pick it. :p

[amachinist]

Other methods of bypassing locks depending upon how they are secured. If it is by chain, skip the lock and cut the chain, usually the chain is easier to cut. A lock attached to an exposed hasp, cut the hasp. Sometimes just prying the hasp plate off the door is easiest.

On normal padlocks, commonly used on company lockers, I have seen two large drift punches placed in the opening and struck with a hammer to open the lock, the lock can be closed back about half the time.

In locksmith catalogs there are sets of small curved spring tools that are worked in around the top on the inside of the shackle, pressed down into the holes. They press the balls back into the base and the lock is opened.

[209]

My My, I am stumped there. That looks slightly challenging :rolleyes: . I guess you would eather have to find a way around it or a cutting torch.

[WMD]

Depending on the design of the hasp, you might be able to place a hydraulic jack under it, together with a suitable extension piece and apply a lot of brute force. As for more clandestine means, sometimes keys for high security locks are protected by low security locks, for instance when the key owner goes to the gym and uses a locker. Then the keys can be copied in a matter of minutes using quick setting silicone. Of course this is only useful for high value targets.

[Jacks Complete]

At school, I used a screwdriver to carefully remove the securing screws on a lot of padlock hasps to gain entry. The screws could easily be replaced, and no-one was any the wiser.

Another trick I saw, which I then improved on, was the use of a fire extinguisher to smash the padlock off. The improvement was to first hold the padlock with a set of pipe grips, so that the target area was a lot bigger, and then hit it with the fire extinguisher/lump hammer. Probably worked 80% of the time in one or two swings, and the padlock often worked visually afterwards. The owner would often notice something wrong, but the lock itself wasn't obviously fucked up.

[chembio]

An idea I've been toying with:

Inject some aqua regia into the keyhole of the lock. If enough is injected, the pins should all be corroded away. The, pump in lots of water to clean the lock. Use an allen key to turn, and it should open. :D

*Itching to try but lacks HNO3* :mad:

[chemdude1999]

chembio, that is a decent idea. But you need a set of circumstances for it to work. First, the lock must not be used much. Acid (even aqua regia) takes time to work solid metal down. Second, the lock must be located in a lightly travelled area. The fumes and stains on the door would alert anyone.

I think this idea would work well on utility closets, access doors to electrical items, or on seasonally-used areas.

Give it a shot on a old lock you have, to gauge the time needed along with the amount of acid required. Some alloys are notoriously tough.

[nbk2000]

Most locks are not liquid-tight, so any acid you put in will run out of any hole, either pre-existing or made by the acid.

[Jacks Complete]

That idea has merit, but you would need a lot of acid to have much effect. More likely it would cause rust and corrosion, and the lock would jam up. That might be useful, depending, of course.

[Charles Owlen Picket]

There is a maul used for very hard wood made by a company in Canada that is interesting. It is quite finely tapered and it's point is just that; a point (not a wedge, tapering from .15 cm to 4.5 cm @ 1 kg weight) configured to most every opening of 1 cm in diameter. This is a very well made chuck of steel that could easily force open even Master 950's, etc with a sever blow from a heavy hammer as it could well fit within a shackle.

There is also a breaker bar that is 5' long made of hex steel 1.25" think which may also provide leverage for heavy by-pass techniques. But the biggest issue I see is the bracing of the lock to be undone. It would either flop around or would bang against what holds it with a great deal of noise and fuss.

I have wondered if there was a truly powerful four inch hand grinder that is battery powered....such a tool could be fitted with a cut-off blade (I have seen 4" cut-off blades on plug-in types). That and a portable 18-24 volt drill would get most folks where they need to go, I would imagine.

[209]

A grinder with a cutting wheel (provided there is an avalible power source) may be the ideal tool for penetrating high security locks. Though when you are using an angle grinder it sounds like a moment stolen from hell, it could work. My grinder (B&D 4/1/2) may be one of the best investments I have ever made. I find it endlessly useful for cleaning up welds, cutting lock picks or slicing metal were a clean cut is required. The speed of cutting metal with an angle grinder is staggering, though its so damn loud.

Has anyone made, or have a set of auto jigglers? I Youtubed it and I may have to make me a set, it appears that anone with half a brain could make and use one. They look like they are very effective, and small too. Suddenly, you arn't running for the bus anymore! :)

[nbk2000]

$150, including case and batteries:
http://www.toolking.com/productinfo.aspx?productid=7998

$80, tool only (assuming you already have batteries):
http://www.toolking.com/productinfo.aspx?productid=12737

I got mine for $40 several years ago. :p

Used it in my demonstration video of using an inert atmosphere for spark-free cutting (http://www.roguesci.org/theforum/showthread.php?t=4832).

[Charles Owlen Picket]

That's the ticket! (DeWalt Cordless Cut-Off Tool / Grinder 18V XPR 4-1/2"....found a sale too!).... By the way: I'm up for the DVD when you do sell it.


@209
From my experience auto gigglers are made of thin steel which bends quite easily. This is extremely unfortunate in that often automotive locks really need the leverage. It's no problem to scan the existing gigglers & make a template.
The trick would be making them of a material that would resist enough to turn the lock. Obviously, this is only my experience and there are less resistive locks on many newer vehicles. There is a "bump key" concept to using them in that after giggling to set the wafers to the shear line you need to turn THEN! That type of light, fast hand movement invites twisting at the bow. I got them to work on a Toyota truck ('89") with little wear in the lock (tight) and a GMC Jimmy with a very sloppy key-way (loose as a goose).

I once experimented with making a "Bending Jig" for auto entry tools. It came out GREAT! I used a self designed templet of all the wire auto tools that two large companies sell (Pro-Lock & Sully). Then I found a source for music wire of a very high grade. The jig was made with a block of quality hardwood (Purple Heart) and dowels of Rock Maple. It was small and you could make any tool in the inventory fast! So that once equipped with an up-to-date entry reference and the jig, wire, & a few wedges, you could get into anything on the road. It's really the only way to get a full collection of wire entry tools without spending a stupid amount of $. The profit level on those wire tools is ridiculous!

[Jacks Complete]

I was looking at the back of a van today, and it had a crappy regular brass padlock on it, and one of the serious heavy duty lock hasps. It occurred to me that the hasp, being one of the ones with the big steel quarter dome over the top, would actually make it far easier to break the padlock off, by inserting a bar then levering down on the body of it, using the hasp itself as a fulcrum.

[Tinton]

One technique that I have yet to test, but sounds plausible, is a blow torch.
Not the grunt cutting method, but a quieter cheaper method.

The 1500s(?), master combo locks, use plastic disks on the inside. Once both locks are aligned, and the shackle is pulled, a metal rods descends into a deep groove on the plastic disks; allowing the lock to open.

If you could heat the lock just enough to melt, or deform the plastic pieces, and then pulled the shackle... The bar would just dig into the semi-molten plastic, and open.

Better yet, there would be no entry marks, as long as you wipe off the soot.

++++++++++

Every 1500 lock I've torn apart had metal discs. NBK

[WMD]

If there really are plastic disks inside you don't need a blowtorch. I once had a carabiner style padlock from Masterlock and wanted to try if I could feel the gates when I apply some pressure to the shackle. Well, mild pressure was sufficient to deform the disk so much that the lock opened without the correct combination. I think other locks using plastic disks would be just as easy to force open.

[GNAB]

For building entry ways an old (circa 1960-1975) bumper jack is extremely effective. Still available at most salvage yards. Place horizontally between door jambs at vertical mid point and ratchet twice. Door should swing open freely even with dead bolts. Depending on bumper attachment you may need a block of wood to prevent maring but everything will return to normal upon removal of the jack. This will also work on metal door frames. Very, very "low tech" and very effective.
Regards

[Jacks Complete]

GNAB, you mean as a door spreader? Good idea, but I don't think that will work on many doors on brick buildings, since you are going to need to push the frame about an inch wider, and there isn't an inch to go.

On the police entry things they do this frame spreading before pushing the door with a ram. I saw a picture somewhere of a steel hook bolt that was ripped open by one of these things, it was stretched a long way!

[Charles Owlen Picket]

Actually what GNAB was talking about MAY have been the real thing (a true bumper jack). There is a hydraulic device that is similar to a automobile jack but it's MADE for door spreading. It's made somewhat long in comparison to the floor model and has angled braces on each end. VERY heavy steel construction. the one I saw was rated @ 20 tons and it was a small one. These things WILL push a door frame wide enough to open the dead-bolt, etc.

The company that sells them I think was Falle-Safe. They are about $200+ USD and weigh less than one would think. I saw a demo and I really think that no frame could stand up to it. The fact that it's a hydraulic device and not mechanical like a bumper jack makes it able to handle brick or steel very easily. The shit just bends or crushes outright!

[nbk2000]

The Hydra-Force spreader, is the tool you're referring to.

[Charles Owlen Picket]

YOU'RE RIGHT ON THE MONEY! And it's a babe! If I had the money for such a toy I would most likely buy it. I believe they come in various sizes, are not too clumsy to carry and are essentially a floor-jack so that they are tough beyond necessity.

[GMike63]

A Hi-Lift Jack with the JackMate aftermarket attachment will bust up or open a lot of things, from damaged automobiles to house doors. Although it doesnt have the strength to spread a door properly installed in a masonry opening, there may be a solution without resorting to the hydraulic jacks. If you could get a grip around the outside of the door frame verticals, you could use the jack to squeeze the frame inwards on itself and hopefully break everything loose from the walls. The 90 minute rated steel door frames that extend out from the wall would probably be easy to grab. A wood framed door recessed into a block opening would be harder to grab- but probably easier to destroy once you get a grip. Need somebody to start fabricating and selling an accessory for this now.

[Jacks Complete]

Reading the responses here, I think that we are getting a bit far from the topic. Yes, you probably can buy a $1000 system that will push hard enough to shift the door frame on a masonary building, but that's not a wise thing to do. In the UK, if you did that shit on most houses, you would need all 20 tonnes of force, since bricks and mortar are not compressible. Sure, you might manage to pop a few bricks loose, but that wouldn't open the door. And on a terraced street, 20 tonnes isn't going to do anything, as there is way more than 20 tonnes of bricks in a row.

Now, 20 tonnes onto the door itself, that would probably open most of them. They would bend or splinter.

However, as ever, the middle way is best. Spread the frame by 5mm, or 20 if you can. (Odds are that unless you pick your target well, you won't get 20mm without at the least, a window exploding from the pressure. Which means the use of a ram was silly, and you could have bricked a window...)

Then you get another ram, and push on the door, which then bends a little. Say 10mm. Since a lock bolt is 14mm long, this pops the door open.

No need to destroy everything and get caught, eh?

Not that this would work on modern multipoint doors, not without a hell of a lot of noise.

[nbk2000]

When the door frame can't be spread apart, the spreader can still be used as a support for using an airbag.

The spreader is emplaced in line with the main lock, and then a small high-pressure airbag is placed between the door and the spreader, and inflated.

The forces the door to bow inwards, releasing the door bolt from the frame.

This doesn't work for multipoint door frames, nor for a particular type of door lock, but for the majority of doors it does.

[-=HeX=-]

Sorry for bringing up such an old thread NBK, but you were asking for donations of locks for your research. If you email me or otherwise contact me (private message) I can arrange to send you a Medico or Chubb lock (not sure of what brand it is), as well as a Tri-Circle padlock.

Also, strangely enough, I found an unusual weakness in a Medico desk lock that I recently was 'playing' with, I pressed in all the pins simultaenously with a hairpin and, as I pulled it out, the locks cylinder with all the pins came out, this was a brand new Medico lock! what surprised me was the fact that it worked on my friends Medico desklock as well! And these are top quality...

Also, a question, is 'rapping' where you tap the back of the lock with a rubber mallet or shoe and then pull on it? As well, somebody said 'thermite' does not work on padlocks, well, it does, but attracts WAY too much attention. Also, go here for a good video and instructions for a toothbrush lockpick http://www.inventgeek.com/Projects/lockpick/page4.aspx it is very effective.

[oskarchem]

Well, if the post is digged up, since the use of Aqua Regia has been put up, I think that it would melt away pretty much everything inside the lock, if it can dissolve Gold in like 1minute, I don't think some steel would be a problem...

When I go to the US, I usually attack the newspaper machines, if you bang on it hard enough some cash will fall out, but not wery much like 3$ so I usually pick the locks on the side...

[Charles Owlen Picket]

I didn't want this thread to die since it may be one of the better in terms of time and energy from a variety of people.

When examining locks that simply are too difficult to pick, there is an alternative beyond brute force leverage: weld-cutting. Now oxy/acetylene is available in common back-pack sized units and if you have any welding background at all you know where to find cutting torches that use micro fine tips. I have an old "Nickels" millimeter cutter that HAS provided cuts through .50" hardened steel with such speed as to be infamous! The small tanks at Home Depot will fit in an ALICE pack. Those alone will give you 20 minitues at least at 5\10 lbs O\A gas.

I also had one of the back-pack Miller TIG/Stick units that run off 110 ACV:
http://www.millerwelds.com/products/tig/maxstar_150_stl/
If AC is available, it will provide shear capability for protracted work (safes, etc) especially if you have a moderate welding background & know some of the labour saving mechanisms....

Some of the things some of the old timers can do is amazing due to extended experimentation. Most people know that even welding tips on an O\A torch can cut enough to get into most any plate steel @ 3/8" or drop a shackle in less than 30 seconds.

[monkeyboy]

Reading the responses here, I think that we are getting a bit far from the topic. Yes, you probably can buy a $1000 system that will push hard enough to shift the door frame on a masonry building, but that's not a wise thing to do. In the UK, if you did that shit on most houses, you would need all 20 tonnes of force, since bricks and mortar are not compressible. Sure, you might manage to pop a few bricks loose, but that wouldn't open the door. And on a terraced street, 20 tonnes isn't going to do anything, as there is way more than 20 tonnes of bricks in a row.


Maybe things are built a bit different in Europe. But around here, the rough opening is framed in (whether wood framed or masonry) with 2X lumber. Then the door jamb, which is 1/2"-1" smaller is stuck in the hole. 4-6 wedges (1" wide/tapered to 1/4" thick & 8" long) are stuck around the frame & (finish) nails are driven through them to hold it all together. This is so that as temperature & humidity (+ Minor foundation settling) change, all the parts can expand/contract without the door binding. The door itself has between 1/8" - 3/8" per side clearance, also. When using a hydraulic door spreader, the slack in these two things is what is compressed. Real easy to get the 1" you need.

As for the $1000 price tag, that's what the government pays for a special purpose one. The generic one, used for moving all kinds of stuff around, is known as a Porta-Power. They can be had for as little as $70 on sale (harbor freight) or a couple hundred for an American made version.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=44899
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=44900

I've had one for ages that I picked up at a pawn shop for $75 (Porter-Cable).
It works like a charm to open doors. If you just use the rubber pucks it comes with though, it will mar the jamb. I suggest a piece of 1X4 stock at each end.

I haven't used it for that in awhile, as I'm actually getting pretty good with my picks.

I did just use it for holding up a porch roof while I replaced the columns. Again, works like a charm.

"He has lock picks" You say? Yep, got them with the Foley-Belsaw course. Also a "locksmith trainee wallet card, that has gotten me out of quite a bit of hassle related to carrying/using them. I highly recommend it, even if you aren't going to be a "professional locksmith." The knowledge is priceless. If you get on their mailing list, They'll send you out a flyer with a price of around a $1000. Ignore it. a few weeks later, they'll send out an offer of around $800. Finally around $650. Plus they'll finance it to the tune of $30 a month. Takes longer to do the course that way, 'cause they'll only send out 1 lesson a month, but heck you can't beat the price.

The Key machine that comes with it is usable, just barely. I recently picked up a much better one & a bunch of blanks from Craigslist for $100. I've bent a complete set of car door opening tools, by looking through the catalogs. My next project will be building a bigger set of picks & tension wrenches from the blueprints I've found in various places on the net.

I'm also working on trying to make my own "Mule Tool" any of you guys heard of it?


Oh yeah! Just remembered. A while back a buddy asked if he could borrow my Foley Belsaw books. No way! I looked around on the net & found a PDF of the whole thing. It was a set of joined scans. So I OCRed & optimized it. Thought somebody here might find it useful:
http://rapidshare.com/files/104760215/Tomato_Soup_recipes.rar
The PW is roguesci.org, of course.

[Charles Owlen Picket]

Please describe "mule tool". Good work with the scans, by the way. However the Foley material is so dated (skeleton and flag keys?) that in today's working locksmith operand much of it is not applicable. A smart student could extrapolate from the examples shown but many would not. One of the best is commonly found at some local Community Colleges (actually high schools) entitled (IIRC) "Understanding Relational Commercial Security" which is a locksmith course that has an emphasis on Alarm installation as well as solid locksmithing. The course is a full year and the syllabus is tough to come by as it has the school's name all over it and the copier would divulge his identity pretty quickly.

[monkeyboy]

Please describe "mule tool".


It's in one of the locksmith videos floating around the net. It's a rod that you insert under the door, then twist to get it to stand up. Then it hooks the knob/latch with a piece of non-slip fabric. You pull a string & it opens the door. Whiz bang. If I can remember which video it's in, I'll extract & post it

However the Foley material is so dated (skeleton and flag keys?) that in today's working locksmith operand much of it is not applicable. A smart student could extrapolate from the examples shown but many would not.

There are parts of a couple chapters that begin with warded locks (skeleton and flag keys) as an introduction to the technology of locks. They are actually still pretty big sellers in padlocks filing cabinets & desks. People are stupid, I guess. The bulk of the information concerns pin tumbler locks, however. That would be the vast majority of locks used & sold in the US. There are also chapters on wafer/side bar locks (still used on a lot of cars) & car opening tools. There is information on terminology & reading locksmithing catalogs, Impressioning locks, Master keying, Ace locks, Double bitted cam locks, Combination locks, code cutting & Picking. All fairly well thought out & presented in a decent order. Definitely mostly still applicable. Doesn't cover the newer high security locks, especially the cool stuff out of Europe. But it does provide a very solid foundation of knowledge, so that you can understand what's going on when you do run across information on those rarely encountered locks.

For some one with little to no knowledge of locks, I highly recommend it. If you can't afford the course, download the book. Read it all the way through, like a novel. Try to come up with the locks & tools they talk about, so you can follow along with the procedures. Persevere. You will definitely learn about locks.

Once you have that foundation, if you want the information about the more interesting locks, look for & download the LSS+ very interesting. Very technical, but very interesting.