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h2o235
November 3rd, 2006, 08:06 PM
While working today i came to an idea, I have made AP ( the dppp recipe ) and am thinking of placeing some within a pellet to be shot out a pellet rifle

My thought is place maybe 1/2 or 1/4 gram (would that amount even fit in the small pellet head ?) into the pellet and if i can modify the rate of acceleration ( most likely downwards), you would have a small explosion on impact causing small wounds from the metal pellet's

I'm assuming that the range would drop a fair bit and alot of experimenting with the individual rifle would be required to fine tune the air pressure

I honestly do not know if it can be done or if it would be worth doing

Can any one here shead any light on the practicality of this idea ?

thank you

ShadowMyGeekSpace
November 3rd, 2006, 10:06 PM
You'd ruin an otherwise good air rifle attempting this, and possibly hurt yourself. This isn't a good idea at all, and this post makes me doubt you've ever handled AP before.

You'd better pray the beast skips over this post, as it breaks the conventions set forth in The Rules, and is of dubious value.

edit: Just noticed it's water cooler.... a shame.

Lewis
November 3rd, 2006, 10:09 PM
I agree with Shadow, definately not a good idea.

Perhaps a better idea would be to make AP targets for a pellet gun? Back in The Day I would use all sorts of sensitive low explosives for pellet gun targets. AP would be a whole new level of exciting.

c.Tech
November 3rd, 2006, 10:44 PM
You don't seem to know much about the sensitivity of AP, if your making highly sensitive explosives you should know some basic safety of it and the chemicals being used.

Do a bit of reading on how dangerous it is, take safety precautions or you may end up like our ex-member phone.

'http://www.sciencemadness.org/talk/viewthread.php?tid=1570'
'http://www.roguesci.org/theforum/water-cooler/2311-storing-acetone-peroxide.html'

h2o235
November 4th, 2006, 06:24 AM
I Have made and handled AP, but I admit I do not know its full potential yet, I'm working towards learning

This is also my first explosive material and I'm trying to find any/all ways of using it

Thank you for your input and I will do more experimentation with it to learn its properties

Would any one be able to make a suggestion as to a material that can be used in this manner ?

Firearms are hard to come by for the avg person, but air guns are not


thank you
h2o235


EDITED : Also c.tech I have read the phone thread, I hope not to sound like a kewl or what have you

c.Tech
November 4th, 2006, 06:46 AM
Sorry for doubting you, I though because you were thinking of shooting it out of a gun you didn’t know about its sensitivity. I now realise that you didn’t mean just any gun (such as a propellant powered one) but just a simple air rifle.

And why delate the thread, if it is useful for information that will show people in the future what not to do it is useful here and could lead to more discussion on the subject of explosive pellets.

Who thinks the use of Armstrong’s mix on the outer layer with a flammable liquid core shot out of an air cannon is feasibly safe in small scale?

It could be used to light your enemies buildings on fire from an distance.

mike16
November 4th, 2006, 07:35 AM
If you want to increase air rifle performance, I would suggest putting a small piece of guncotton behind the pellet.

I have done this before with my air rifle, without guncotton it shot a 16 grain pellet at around 550fps, but with a very small piece of guncotton behind the pellet, it fired the same pellet at around 1300fps.

But this was the maximum velocity I could achieve without damaging the air rifle, too much guncotton would force the piston back against the mainspring upon firing, which damaged the trigger, so i suggest experimenting with very small amounts first.

Sausagemit
November 4th, 2006, 05:05 PM
Who thinks the use of Armstrong’s mix on the outer layer with a flammable liquid core shot out of an air cannon is feasibly safe in small scale?

I think it's very feasable. I have manufactured gel core airsoft pellets before. While not perfecly round, about half of them fired out of the gun properly while the other half burst inside the gun. It's not exacly an art with LEXEL sealant and a syringe filled with soy based gel and water. Part of it might have been the fact that I was using a homemade airsoft gun that shot at a little under 500 fps too. :D

The LEXEL sealant smells like it's acetone based so my guess is it would burn fairly easily. The only problem is the bigger you go the more unstable they get and the more you have to turn them to get them to dry properly and be round. Paintball sized would be pretty tough to do and I think thats about the only size worthwhile.

I have never had any experience with Armstrong's mix so I don't even know what it's consistancy is or anything. I tried a quick googleing but didn't dig anything up. Will do some looking into later on tonight, might have some flamable self igniting airsoft pellets in the next week or so. ;)

Edit: Forgot to add in the part about using a CO2 powerd gun to fire them. Because then if one did burst in the barrel, a quick pull of the trigger and the fire is out.

Alexires
November 4th, 2006, 08:56 PM
C.Tech, I believe that the idea MIGHT be feasable. When you say air cannon, do you mean a slug gun, or something like a spud gun?

Lets assume a spud-gun, as a slug gun just wouldn't have the range/capacity to do much damage.

You might have a problem with the projectile moving so fast it blows out the flame from the Armstrong's mix.

Maybe to decrease the danger, use a little Armstrong's mix at six points around the sphere (equidistant from one another) and then the rest being some kind of KNO3/Sugar mix that has been melted around a ping-pong ball (Nitro Cellulose) filled with a kind of napalm mix (good old petrol/styrofoam).

Hopefully with this, the friction would ignite the Armstrong's mix, which ignites the KNO3/Sugar mix, etc.

If you were really adventurous, you might put a small (2-5g) AP charge in the centre of the round (surrounded by something, Al foil or something non-reactive) and hope that the napalm mix acted as a cushion so that it doesn't detonate in your spud-gun...

When performing this experiment, hide behind something that will stop shrapnel.... and raining napalm.... and don't use a good spud-gun first till you've fired 20 or so and they have ALL worked.

atlas#11
November 6th, 2006, 12:30 AM
I have done this before actualy. Using HMTD instead of AP, I placed a small ammount of HMTD mixed about half and half with AN in the back of air rifle pellets and sealed it over with wax. I realise that hmtd reacts with the lead and becomes even less stable salts, but I used them within minutes of making them and had quite a bit of fun. Fire them backwards though, the air pressure might set them off in the barrel, plus they go off better if the explosive is actualy impacted rather than just the lead tip.

These made a decent pop and were quite fun for tormenting the wildlife, I can't really think of any useful purpose they would serve asside from igniting stuff from a distance. I was just getting rid of some old hmtd and having a bit of fun with it, eventualy I just pilled it on a piece of paper and blasted it with a normal pellet as making the explosive pellets isn't a very quick way to get rid of the stuff.

I guess if you have surplus AP and a cheap pellet gun, go for it, just don't make them too big, you're not going to get enough ap into a projectile to do any dammage without risking your life beyond the acceptable level. If you want to do dammage, I suggest you hang around here abit more before attempting explosive projectiles. They're quite tricky to make, and even well made ones aren't very safe.

c.Tech
November 6th, 2006, 12:44 AM
C.Tech, I believe that the idea MIGHT be feasible. When you say air cannon, do you mean a slug gun, or something like a spud gun?

Yes I meant a CO2 air cannon large enough to shoot something about the size of a ping pong ball.

Or if it wouldn’t have the range I was thinking of a rocket propelled napalm device, possibility being shot into the air to rain burning napalm on your enemies.

In the end it would probably be better to have a timed igniter than any impact sensiative mix which could be unreliable.

As you stated the range wouldn’t be as great as desired just simply throwing flaming napalm filled rubber balls could do the job better than any air cannon.

h2o235
November 6th, 2006, 07:39 PM
I have done this before actualy. Using HMTD instead of AP,

its nice to know that some one has looked into it before,

If you want to do dammage

that is what I'm attempting


I suggest you hang around here abit more before attempting explosive projectiles. They're quite tricky to make, and even well made ones aren't very safe.

Agreed, I have learnt many things in a short time here, And for that i thank all of you

wymanthescienceman
November 10th, 2006, 01:17 AM
I have just started experimenting with explosive pellets as well, I posted in a different thread though involving flash called "MAGNALIUM vs Pyro aluminum".

My idea was using hollow point .177cal pellets and drilling a tiny amount of it out. Then filling it with packed SA til almost full, and priming it with ring cap powder (Armstrongs?) and sealing it with a tiny circle of tape. Since all the powder is packed (GENTLY :eek: ) it doesn't like to fall out.

I tested these and they were very cool, just do it from rather far away to avoid the shrapnel lead thrown out of the hole when it explodes. I shot one into a 2x4 and it blew out a 1/4" x 1/4" hole plus splinters and made my ears ring for 10 min (I was in a small garage :rolleyes: ), almost as loud as a normal firecracker. One could make them more sensitive for small animal control by maybe attaching a tiny BB or something to the tip to provide better initiation from a soft target. Very sweet indeed.

sparkchaser
November 10th, 2006, 04:46 AM
'http://www.airgunsbbguns.com/Career_Dragon_Slayer_Air_Rifle_50_cal_p/shin-sung-career-dragon-50.htm'

Found this last night while perusing for a new air rifle.

Cobalt.45
November 10th, 2006, 10:28 AM
A .50 cal. airgun opens up a lot of possibilities in regards to explosive ammo.

Too bad the price is so high.

Sparkchaser, did you make a decision on what to get? I picked up a Gamo Shadow some time ago. 1000fps for >$80.00US.

The quality is very good for the price, as is the accuracy.

Junk compared to a real airgun, though.

knowledgehungry
November 10th, 2006, 05:26 PM
Even though this is the water cooler I wish you would Use The Fucking Search Engine.

There was a thread started a while back that was titled improvised air rifle munitions, guess what... it's still there guys, so why don't you search, find it and then realize everything in this thread is redundant because it was already discussed elsewhere.

Not only has this been discussed in the thread I mentioned it has been discussed in other threads too. Somebody even manged to make explosive paintballs out of MEKP and hollow plastic spheres IIRC. I did a quick search for that thread but could not find it, it may have been lost in one of the forum moves. The results of said paintball on a piece of plywood were very interesting to look at.

Cobalt.45
November 11th, 2006, 10:51 AM
Then filling it with packed SA
Got a case of brain fade, I guess. What's SA?

Some good effects can be had by filling the base of the pellet, then insert it backwards.

Also, #8 lead shot can be used to cover the hole and act as a "hammer" to the pellet's "anvil" to initiate the compound.

nbk2000
November 11th, 2006, 08:22 PM
SA = Styphnic Acid (Trinitroresorcinol)?

Around these here parts ;) we refer to Sulphuric Acid or Sodium Azide by the abbreviation SA, depending on context.

Desmikes
November 12th, 2006, 08:13 PM
In most ex-soviet contries that I've visited, you can purchase exploding pellets for air rifles. They are longer than regular pelets. They have some black powder surrounded by plastic/lead and a small copper ring on the rear end of the pellet. When such pellet strikes a hard surface (bone/wood...not as good w/soft tissue) it detonates with a flash of light and a reasonable crack. The accuracy is not very impressive, but i am sure that it's better than anything that you can make in your garage. You can probably do a mail-order if your local sports store doesn't stock that type of pellets.

Cobalt.45
November 13th, 2006, 01:24 PM
In most ex-soviet contries that I've visited, you can purchase exploding pellets for air rifles.
Those sound interesting.
Nothing like that's available in the USA, AFAIK.

Anyone know if they are, or can be, can be imported?

Something else we don't have, (or need, thankfully) are .22 cal. Toad Loads. Deadly out to ~100' on cane toads and the like.

They sound less powerful than CB's. I'd like to try them...

Alexires
November 14th, 2006, 03:57 AM
Maybe even Salicyclic Acid, NBK....?

knowledgehungry
November 14th, 2006, 02:37 PM
Salicylic Acid is not an explosive.

Chopper
November 14th, 2006, 02:56 PM
Nope, but Silver Acetylide is. That's where my $5 bet lies.

camharris133
March 30th, 2008, 08:56 PM
I can help you here. By using AP, you risk damaging the inside of your gun.

Instead, you can take a small rifle primer and epoxy it to the tip of a flathead pellet. The damage done is intense and alot better and safer than an AP pellet.

PETERCPA
April 1st, 2008, 08:48 PM
In most ex-soviet contries that I've visited, you can purchase exploding pellets for air rifles. .

When I was a kid filled the rear of .17 caliber pellets with Armstrong mix. When I shot one inch pine board with them they explode with a flash and bang about half way through and blow a big chunk out the back of the board. They were very much fun to shoot. I mixed the Armstrongs wet, pressed the pellets into it and lay them on their sides to dry. I wasn't careful with the mix but it was wet and I mixed 1/10th gram lots at a time.

SafetyLast
August 2nd, 2008, 01:48 PM
I have tried this before, several years ago. I used flat point wadcutter pellets and filled the skirts with a small amount of AP (You can really only use about 50mg or maybe less as there's not much volume there) the ends were then sealed with a small amount of contact cement.

I fired the pellets backwards at a cinderblock at about a 50ft range. They only go off about half of the time. I don't really recommend doing this as their is the possibility of detonation in the barrel or a jam. Even though such a small amount of isn't enough to do much damage it would still make for a nasty surprise if it went off in your hand.

I also used to fire small rifle primers from .223 ammo, these fit perfectly into the bore of a .177. Same as above they're only about 50% reliable.

totenkov
August 2nd, 2008, 06:36 PM
Even a small amount of AP in a pellet for would be devastating to human flesh upon det inside the barrel. I used to have a 6 round black powder pistol, you had to have quite a wad in there to avoid the other chambers discharging when firing a round.

If the powder went up in the other chambers, the gun would just explode, I seen some mangled hands because of it. The same effect would come from stuffing a primary explosive into a small barrel and then hitting it with a blast of air, common sense guys.

FortiusPenguin
August 2nd, 2008, 07:42 PM
Aye, I would advise against this idea completely...

I'm sure it's good fun, but unreliability and uncertainty will only lead to another AP disaster. I'm likely far from the most experienced experimenter when it comes to AP, but I've been handling the stuff for a good couple of years now, and I can tell you that high speed propulsion of AP or anything involving AP is pure nincompoopery!

It WILL damage your gun, and likely your hand, if it were to go off in the barrel. Your hand won't be pink-misted, but it won't be pretty.

If you are just looking for a good bang, make an AP target, and shoot it with a normal pellet. If you are looking for damage, just use a bigger caliber...

TheSavageHyena
August 2nd, 2008, 08:21 PM
Aside from the small pleasure of watching a pellet 'explode' after firing, there is little practical use. It is useful a small scale to perhaps use as a guide for something larger. The Varmint grenade .22 bullet is another good example however I doubt it uses any HE in them. http://www.barnesbullets.com/products/rifle/varmint-grenade/

They employ a relatively safe way to discharge these bullets with little chances of it exploding in the gun. They differ from incendiary rounds but don't detonate so I'm a bit confused as to how they work. I would love to get an exploding round for a larger caliber rifle or even pistol, however I would need the safety there before I even try it.

colniko
August 3rd, 2008, 02:21 PM
TheSavageHyena: That round is NOT explosive in the sense that it actually explodes. It is simply a highly frangible round, meaning on impact it pretty much disintegrates. Usually these types of rounds are used to prevent over penetration.

I read a few posts down what sounded like people filling the tail end of pellets with the Exp and placing them backwards in the gun and firing that way. I would imagine that would be like tossing a coin in the air and guessing heads or tails. That would be like trying to throw a dart tail end first and hoping it still sticks in the bullseye. I am sure you can get it to stick SOMETIME's. What is probably happening is the pellet is tumbling in the air thus accuracy is gonna be crap and it's a 50/50 as to whether its going to strike it's intended target just right as to detonate the Exp.

Of course, I could be wrong. Just my thoughts on this. As this is my first time posting on here I hope I don't get beat up too bad for nay saying an idea. I wish I had a suggestion as to how to go about making this idea work. To me it sounds like an interesting concept.

Rbick
August 4th, 2008, 05:31 PM
The varmint grenades are not actual grenades. There is no explosive involved aside from the propellant and the primer. The magic lies in dispersing the bullets energy quickly, resulting in a massive wound cavity that is too large for the small body of the animal to contain, thus resulting in an explosion of flesh.

This is accomplished by having a very thin copper jacket around the soft, hollow core of the bullet. It is all in the bullet design. The thin jacket quickly peels away upon contact, revealing the soft core, which fractures into multiple, flat junks of metal. A friend of mine who is obsessed with reloading actual designed his own varmint grenades. He took a normal boat tail bullet and shaved a couple thousands off the tip, making a flat point. He then shaved the copper jacket as thin as possible. His rounds are just as effective and he pays 1/3 the price, aside from his labor.

Just think about the difference between getting shot by a full metal jacket or a hollow point. The hollow point will spread out, releasing all of its energy into the surrounding flesh, causing maximum damage. The FMJ will simply pass through the target, taking its energy elsewhere. Research Terminal Ballistics (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Terminal_ballistics) for more specifics. The link presented leads to wikipedia, which seems to have a great deal of info on the subject.

A search of youtube will show that a few people have opted to seal bullet primers to the top of pellets. This seems to be the most safe and effective means of achieving an exploding pellet. I myself have taken interest in the subject as we have a rabbit infestation where I live in the city. It is illegal to use fire arms and my cheap air rifle requires a direct brain hit to kill the animals. The area is about 3cm by 3cm directly behind and above the eye. I can do it quite consistently, but having a pellet that would explode might make my odds better, and more entertaining. I'll have to do some testing on the effects on accuracy as well. It appears that the primed pellets explode quite well in contact with particle board/plywood. The hardness of a rabbit skull is comparable to that of plywood, I hope. We can speculate anything, but only experimentation will tell us for sure. We'll see :D

As for AP, I would never put it in anything in an air rifle. You're just asking for a shredded hand. Unless you can find a safe way of doing it, I wouldn't think about it. Plus it is easier to just go buy some small arms primers down at the gun store. Good luck everyone :)

Secong Nature
August 11th, 2008, 08:09 AM
My idea would be a hollow point .22 caliber round with the point full of a decent secondary explosive, like ETN. Not TNP as it will react with the lead and I don't think that firing bullets at those speeds would leave a primary alone.

Would the momentum of the bullet slamming into the ETN detonate it, providing it was a hit on bone?

-=HeX=-
August 11th, 2008, 08:15 AM
Well, people have made explosive targets from ETN s I dont see why not... And john hinkley junior made exploding rounds using lead azide... But if you are really into explosive bullets look into the RAUFOSS round.

Using TATP in explosive bullets or pellets is terminally stupid, and leads to getting a darwin award.

Rbick
August 11th, 2008, 11:06 AM
Using TATP in explosive bullets or pellets is terminally stupid, and leads to getting a darwin award.

Totally agree! Despite our warning Hex, I bet you some people will still try it though :rolleyes:

ETN is easily initiated through a hammer test. The energy of a .22 round hitting a hard object at high velocity is substantially greater, so why not? Using a standard .22 round at standard velocity would be a BAD idea. Check out the links below to see special .22 ammunition. The Aguila Super Colibris fire at around 500 FPS and have no powder. They are only double primed. The CCI CB has only a small bit of powder but is almost as quiet. Both produce about as much noise as a pellet gun. The reason I reccomend not using standard .22s is for the fear of the powder charge initiating the ETN. This wouldn't be an issue with these rounds.

Aguila Super Colibri (http://www.smokewagongear.com/p-120-aguila-22-super-c0libri-20gr-bullet.aspx)
CCI CB (http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=638772)

I would start trying with the CCI CBs. They have a higher velocity and a larger bullet so you can pack more explosive in there. Just do the proper testing before loading a full bullet! As Hex said, you don't want to be in this years Darwin awards :D

EDIT: I haven't tested these rounds with ETN. I have however super glued a small rifle primer to the tip of a Super Colibri round and fired it. When fired at a hard object, it detonates well and is fairly accurate. It takes a good chunk out of cement blocks, a lot more than a normal round would. The way I secure the primer is by shaving the top off the bullet to form a relatively flat, smooth tip. Then I put a thin layer of super glue on the bullet and press the primer gently on to it. Then I give it about 10 minutes to dry. Make sure the primer is directly in the center of the bullet!

Yafmot
October 15th, 2008, 03:46 AM
Awright you guys, stand back & let me show you how it's done. While playing around with railway torpedo comps, I got interested in projecting this stuff and making it go off downrange. After about a half dozen iterations, this is what I settled on. Due to availability, you may find yourself trying various substitutions, but if you've got all this stuff, I guarantee you'll have some real fun & maybe scare the crap out of your neighbors. You'll need:

6 gr. KClO3 (for sensitivity)

4 gr. KClO4 (for extra oxygen once things get going)

4 gr. S (primary fuel)

3 gr. WET 3 micron Zr. (or as fine as you can get)

3 gr. BiO3 (catalyst & high temp Oxidizer)

5 gr. 1.5 mm & down Ti sponge (for pleasing visuals)

5 gr. ordinary sand (sensitizer)

1 small squirt of Elmer's Glue All (binder)

H2O as needed for texture, mixing and handling.

Weigh out S & BiO3. Pour together in plastic margarine tub or similar size plastic container (preferably sealable). Gently shake laterally until they're mixed (BiO3 is a cast iron bitch to mix into wet anything). Add wet Zr. Stir with popsicle stick or similar until color is even. Add no more than 1/4 tsp. Elmer's (accounting for tare). Repeat stirring. Add KClO4 & mix thoroughly. Repeat with KClO4. Add water if it's getting too stiff. Just a few drops & mix. Add Ti & mix. Make sure the consistency is about that of straight Elmer's or a little thicker. Mix in sand. Add a little extra water if you're going to store it. Keep in 'fridge until ready for use.

Wash a few pellets until completely free of oil. Prepare a drying board by perforating foam meat packing tray, 10 rows of 5. Insert test pellets nose first in holes (or fill all 50 holes if you want). Holes don't have to go through, just enough to grip the pellets and hold them in place.

Using a flat toothpick, or a cocktail straw scoop up a little mix and place in the skirt cavity of a pellet. Mix should be about the consistency of mashed potatoes. If it's too thin. add a little more Oxidizer and sulfur (about 2-1, respectively). Too thick? Couple drops of water & maybe a little (very little) more glue. If it's just stiff enough, you can go ahead and fill it higher than the rim of the skirt. Trust me, it does make a difference.

You can let them dry all night, or speed things up with a blow dryer. To do a quick dry, make sure the drying tray is somehow secured (two-sided tape will work) and position the dryer so the blast hits at about a 45 degree angle. Put it on medium heat, which may not be the same thing as the medium setting. Some dryers put the same amount of juice to the heating coils regardless of the fan speed, so the medium setting might be the hottest of the bunch, low being just straight air.

After a couple or three hours, take a pen or pencil & tap on the charge of a pellet. A good way to test is to put a couple of freestanding charges on the board in open areas, and that way you can test for dryness without ruining a pellet.

If you're stacking the stuff higher than the rim of the skirt, try to keep the charge as concentric as possible and avoid overhang. Not just for stability, but because the stuff has sand in it, and you don't want to wreck your bore.

And you don't need to go out and spend $400 on a 1,000 fps velocity monster, and you certainly don't need a $1,200 Feinwerkbau, or a $3,000 Anschutz. I've been using a $45 Crosman .177 multipumper and it works just fine with 4 or 5 pumps in it. I shoot at a 12x12" ceramic flooring tile, since it's hard enough to insure a det, and so far the only beakage has been from knocking them over.

Just load 'em in backwards, hit something hard, and you'll be rewarded with a Black-Cat-like blast and Incandescent Ti fragments going ten feet in every direction. And (assuming you have a rifled barrel) you should get near-100% reliability.

Here's something wierd, though. I taped a small piece of paper to the tile, squirted it with lighter fluid, and immediately whacked it with a pellet with a particularly large charge in it, and it didn't light. I tried it a few more times, and then with various other solvents (Acetone, Methylene Chloride, MEK, the works). It didn't light any of them. There's got to be some considerable heat to make that Ti incandesce, so why won't it light the stuff?

Anyway, if you really want to make some noise & be the life of the party, scale ip the mix and trowel about 2 grams each into some 3/4" cup sets, filling the little one about half to 3/4 full. Then give 'em the dryer treatment overnight. When they're good & firm, glue on the caps, and when they're completely dry, they'll be ready for mashing. I just use a big river rock about the size of a bowling ball, or maybe a little bigger. Set the thing on the sidewalk, hold the rock directly over it, and as soon as you let go, you'd better have your ears covered. I'll go off as loud as a railroad torpedo, or maybe a little louder, spew Ti sparks for a 30 foot radius. Oh. and do it with long pants on, or you shins will look like ground meat from the sand flying out.

I just bought an old Benjiman .22 pump pistol from a friend of mine, and as soon as I get the time, I'm going to try those out. They seem to have about 3x the cavity volume, so it should be fun.

Also, I have a friend who's a contract reloader for several police & sheriff departments, and I'm going to have him load me up some hollow-based .38 wadcutters with the cavities facing forward. That's about ten times the volume of the .22 pellet, at least. Should be interesting. And don't worry, it'll be propelled with a squib load.

So, whaddaya' think?

iHME
October 15th, 2008, 08:24 AM
Awesome stuff if/when I get my hands on everything needed, I'm trying this. :D

-=HeX=-
October 15th, 2008, 03:26 PM
Nice work Yafmot! Now I have used zirconum only once before so I am not sure about its properties, except that used in a flash powder its too dangerous to use. Now if only I had a pellet gun to try it with. Maybe I will improvise. The comment about them not igniting the lighter fluid is very interestin. Could you grab some media of the rounds?

Yafmot
November 4th, 2008, 04:03 PM
Whoops! Re: Post # 35. That was a little heavy on the Sulfur, so either use less or add more Oxidizer. I just whipped up a scaled up batch of that recipe, and it was stinky and way too slow. The pellets just made some sparks, and when samples were ignited it gave off way too much smoke and SO2. I just added a bunch more KCLO3/O4, and when I get some of that dried out I'll test it and, if necessary, add even more Oxidizer.

Stay tuned.