Need a detonator - Ragnars Detonators problem

[Smoakie]

To start, I have searched the site looking for a simple detonator with no luck. There is lots of talk about using fairly unstable primary explosives and various theories on what might work but I can not find any info on how to make a good detonator.

I have a rock in a new driveway to my shop that needs to go. It is about 1.5 feet in diameter and sticking out of the ground almost a foot at the highest point. During construction of my shop I had a huge track hoe try to remove it and it didnt even begin to budge (he had just got done removing 4 rocks the size of VW bugs). I got a fairly big hole drilled into it with a hammer drill and now I want to blast it.

I am planning on using AN+AL+bullseye smokeless powder for the secondary explosive. I have used AN + AL for exploding targets and it is fairly powerful but I figure I will only have one shot so that is why I am adding the bullseye (~40% NG). The formula comes from 'Ragnars New and Improved C-4' and the bullseye is to be a substitue for the NM.

My problem is now I need a detonator. I would rather stay away from AP, HMTD, etc. as that makes things a lot more complicated and I like all my fingers. So from 'Ragnars Detonators' he says you can disassemble rifle primers and make a detonator. I figure this is the easiest and safest route.

So I tried making one and took apart 5 rifle primers. You are suppose to mix with a drop of water and press into the bottom of a thin walled aluminum tube and let dry. I then used cannon fuse to light it but it did not go off. I threw it into a fire and after awhile it popped but it only seemed as loud as a single primer going off if thrown in the fire. The primers are probably 20 yrs old but are still quite powerful. Could they be a different chemical than new primers that was degraded by the water? Should I try pressing the powder dry (more sensitive?)? New primers? Or should I just step up to a sensitive primary and if so which one?

Sorry for the long drawn out post with lots of open ended questions, but I'm just trying to be safe and find the easiest route. Any and all input is greatly appreciated and hopefully I will not be scalded too bad for the post. Thanks!

[c.Tech]

AP isn’t 'that' sensitive and if you take the necessary precautions even if it does detonate you should be all right.

These precautions include safety glasses, thick gloves (I use welding gloves) and never put it in a metal tube unless you want shrapnel.

[stupid939]

Well, sounds like you get to have a little bit of fun. I would agree that you should use a AN based charge, and what I would do is place the charge in the rock, and then cover the whole rock in dirt. This would muffle the sound (if you have whiny neighbors) and stop flying debris for the most part.

As c.Tech said, AP isn't 'that' sensitive, but it still isn't something to play with. All primaries have their pluses and minuses, but most of them are pretty friction sensitive. I find HMTD to be a little less sensitive than AP, but many people disagree. Like c.Tech said again, use glasses, thick gloves, and if you press it, its better to use a blast shield. I press mine into test tubes, and like c.Tech said, don't use metal. The AP decomposes in contact with it, and can heat up and blow up. Use plastic (like a drinking straw) or something like that.

If you are going to use AP, make sure you synthesize it as cool as you can so that you form TCAP for the most part. Then I would say that you make a 1g or 1.5g blasting cap with it and make a small APAN booster for your charge.

Good luck and let us know what you decide to do.

[c.Tech]

don't use metal. The AP decomposes in contact with it, and can heat up and blow up.

AP reacts with metal? Are you sure you're not getting it confused with HMTD?

[Alexires]

I reckon he is getting it mixed up with HMTD.

Also Smoakie, any kind of AN charge is more of a lifting charge instead of a shattering charge. If you were going to use AN, it would be better to put it underneath the rock, not in the middle, otherwise you might find that it doesn't work.

Have a look on Mega's Chem Lab, that should help.

I would personally just use all smokeless rifle powder (nice high VOD), make a charge with that and use a gram of 2 of AP (which is safe compared to 10).

Just make sure you neutralize your AP and wash it properly, but as long as you use it soon after you have made it, you should be fine.

[stupid939]

Ya, I got it confused with HMTD. I posted pretty late and didn't feel like checking, but its still safer to not use metal.

It would indeed be better to put the charge under the rock, but as he said, he doesn't know how far the rock goes into the ground. He has already drilled a hole in it, so unless he drills another at the base inward towards the center, he should use the hole that he has now. If it doesn't work, all the explosives are cheap, and he could try a new method.

Like Alexires said, take a look on Mega's site. There are lots of syntheses on there, and some chemicals are easier to get in different places, so you could find what would be the best option for you.

[Smoakie]

Thanks for the replies.

Yeah I don't think I'm going to be able to get close to the bottom of the rock. I would bet it is the size of a full size truck, if not a few of them. It is just the very top that is the problem so I will be happy getting it sheared off from the ground up.

I figured the higher the VOD the better so that it will want to crack the rock more instead of just knocking a chunk off. That is why I was going to go with the AN, AL, and bullseye because according to ragnar's book, the addition of the bullseye really bumps up the velocity. I was going to test a charge first to get an impression of it so I might try a test of straight smokeless to see which seems more powerful.

I will give the primer thing one more shot and then move on to probably AP since the chems are a little easier to get. I guess if I can find the hexamine, the HMTD would be just as easy. Should I look at something else besides AP and HMTD? I know they are both more sensitive than I want to mess with but if I work in small amounts I should be fine. With all the little kiddies that have made AP I figure I can probably pull it off since I have quite a bit of laboratory apparatus at my disposal.

Guess I need to start researching the synthesis and figure out how much 3% H2O2 I'm going to need to make a few grams of AP...

Thanks again and if anyone has any other comments or suggestions I would like to hear them.

[stupid939]

If you can only get 3% H2O2, then you should make AP. If you can get closer to 30% (call a pool store for Baquacil Oxodizer, its 27% H2O2) and you can get hexamine for cheap from a military surplus store or:

http://www.nitro-pak.com/

Its pretty good, you get 48 tablets for $10. Thats a lot of hexamine and it was the cheapest I could find. AP would definately be cheaper, and you may want to do that if this is a one time thing. Good luck.

[Smoakie]

I just read up on the Baquacil and I'm sure I can get it. I just figured I would have to pay out the butt to get anything concentrated but the price sounds right for it. I could get lab grade stuff but thats a hassle and expensive.

I will try the local army surplus and see if they have some hexamine. I remember seeing it in walmart not to many years ago but I doubt they have it anymore.

I will probably make caps a few times a year but not very often. Would you recommend the HMTD over the AP? Safety is my big concern but I guess a complete detonation is also important. Would a 2 gram detonator reliable detonate a charge or would I need a booster.

The hole is not that large so I'm probably going to only get about a quarter pound charge in it.

Again, thanks for the reply!

[nbk2000]

HMTD is much more dangerous than AP, and not worth the risk.

[Emc2]

I thought this may fit this topic and test the torrent tracker at the same time.

Attached here is a US patent 3931763 for "Explosive Priming Device" or a "Detonator".

It's a small file (300KB) PDF, and may be a good info for some skilled DIY's.

enjoy.

[waxman]

Have you considered (from another thread):
"Bristar"?

[tiac03]

I've said it before and I'll say it again. Most drug stores have Hydrogen Peroxide up to 9% (30 volumes) in the hair bleaching section. I Use it and It makes enough for what you want to do with it (Cheap also).

No hassle to find and plenty for what you are going to do with it.

[James]

I saw a nice little blurb on primers
Primers
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;From a survivalist standpoint, I'd stock up on primers. It's the most difficult component to remanufacture. For example, our militar has used lead styphnate primers since 1948:<table><tr><td>Lead Styphnate, Normal</td><td>36.8%</td></tr><tr><td>Barium Nitrate</td><td>32.0%</td></tr><tr><td>Antimony Sulfide/td><td>15.0%</td></tr><tr><td>Alimunum Powqder</td><td>7.0%</td></tr><tr><td>PETN</td><td>5.0%</td></tr><tr><td>Tetracene</td><td>4.0%</td></tr><tr><td>Gum Arabic</td><td>0.2%</td></tr></table>(From Bostons Gun Bible ch 29 pg 5)
BTW: could someone reseed the torrent?