information on lathes

[Jacob Kell]

I would like if someone here with actual experience in metalworking could provide me with some general information on lathes that can be used to make small calibre barrels and machine gun bolts. I live in apartment with a small basement, and I don't know if it is possible for me to somehow install a small lathe. So I wander what are the neccessary requirements for turning pieces of metal, how noisy it is and would it be enough to have a small sealed space, vacuum cleaner for all the metal dust and a good gasmask?
Thank you.

[shooter3]

Get a book called "Barrels and Actions". It should still be available on the internet somewhere.

[10fingers]

Jacob Kell, so, basically what you are saying is that you want to make machine guns in your basement?
Well, there are numerous files available online on home made weapons. There are several on making rifle barrels. There is a special machine required for this and to me it doesn't look easy. Maybe you could just buy a barrel or a used gun of the right caliber and make it work. You don't need a lathe to make a barrel but you might need it to make the rifling machine.
As for the the bolt, you may be able to get by with a small benchtop milling machine.
The metal shavings given off are neither vaporous or harmful, they have no smell. If you use a cutting fluid, that may have a slight smell but I wouldn't worry about it.

[Cobalt.45]

how noisy it is and would it be enough to have a small sealed space, vacuum cleaner for all the metal dust and a good gasmask?
I guess you have to start somewhere, although your best friend at this stage is Google.

The noise isn't such that you should have a big problem, unless the walls are shared by living spaces on the other side.

The size of your shop depends on what's available to you. During WWII, basement shops provided all manner of munitions. But larger is better. Your equipment and supplies rapidly grow to use up all available space, regardless of what you start with.

If working with carbon steel and most generally available alloys, dust isn't too much of an issue. The "turnings" and such are of a size that will allow them to not become airborne to any great degree.

A nuisance dust mask and safety glasses will help.

You will find after you've UTFSE that building yourself a machine gun is one hell of an undertaking. IMO, you'd be light years ahead of the game by buying an AK and converting it to FA.

But, you may be the next budding John Browning or Kalashnikov. So go for it and see where it leads you.

[Jacob Kell]

Hello everyone, and thank you for your replies. I thought it would be fine for me to start with a smoothbore designs like Luty's SMGs ; ordering the square tubing, spring and spring strips, and making bolts and barrels. Simply going around and looking for a 9 mm tube or so would provoke suspicion, and I am not a licensed gun owner.

[nbk2000]

It helps to know what country that you're living in if people are to help you with relevant answers, eh? ;)

[Jacob Kell]

That's right, I am sorry, I live in Croatia.

[Jacks Complete]

Could you not just pop over to Yugoslavia or whatever the bits are called now, and buy a real one?

I understand the lure of making your own, though. I'd suggest starting with the basics of machine tools and making things. Go with a simple derringer or shotgun design, get used to test firing things, that sort of thing, first. Then perhaps go for a simple blowback Sten design, for your first auto. Build in silencers, as these probably will help keep you un-arrested should you fail to have the required paperwork, and are unlikely to add much to any sentence you get.

[XOPKC]

I have experience in metalworking , I have experience in making submachine gun also so I think I can help you. I used Bulgarian C11M lathe and FU250 milling machines. You can buy them second hand and they are cheap enough but any basement is out of the question these machines are 1 ton each and they require a three phase power supply.

Anyway I take it that you don't have any experience with this kind of machines (asking about gas masks and vacuum cleaner :D ). Having in mind this you really made the best choice with P.Luty. For this work I think you can use a bench grinder , angle grinder , hand drill , files and hacksaw. The angle grinder is really noisy :( maybe that will be a problem. A good gas torch for soldering ,brazing and heat treatment. You will need the gas mask for that if you work in the basement :). And since you started to make a machine shop buy an welding machine too ,it's a nice thing to have for any work with metals :)

If you have any questions about the work ask away. Although I will be most useful to you if you were working on the Bill Holmes Vol.2 , I suppose I can help you with that work too. Good luck :D

[209]

I have a big old South Bend metal lathe, The chuck alone weighs nearly 100 pounds! I picked it up second hand at a store that sells metal machines like mills and lathes. I also have a Sharp industries virtical mill, both are indespensible for gun smithing. I recomend for a strat you buy a cheep imported lathe, if possible also buy it with a milling attachment - you get everything you need in one package.

[Jacks Complete]

The mini lathe and mill kits don't have a great reputation. Most people (on the internet and off) suggest that buying two is a better idea. However, for starting out and "playing" with stuff, I'd go for a multi, especially if there is no room for more. A relatively poor mill is better than no mill at all by a long, long way, and with care and hand finishing you can get really good results. Just don't expect to go into production! (Or, if you do, don't expect interchangable parts between runs)

Floor loading is something you will have to watch if in an apartment, since a small and heavy lathe might be impossible to get to the 5th floor, and even if you did, if it then falls back down to the basement, you will be in the shit.

You want a good thick concrete slab to bolt the thing too, as vibration and flex will kill your accuracy. Rigidity and flatness of the bed is most important. If you look around there are many tips on how to improve things.

You will find that your Z (depth) axis will be the worst for milling and drilling, as the play in all the parts maximises it there. Y is normally next, then the X is best. This matters more for repeatability, but it also affects cutting rates, as a bit of chatter will destroy your work and tools precision.

You will probably want a low powered system. You won't want 3 phase. You will want some kind of venting for airflow, as the coolant does smell. Not much, but it does. You will need a chip tray to catch stuff coming off if it isn't fitted already, a tool rack, somewhere to put the stock, other chuck, cutters, etc. too, as well as room to move around the machine.

Go for the biggest throw and length you can comfortably handle. Take a few classes if you can. Books are handy, you can read up various things, and you will need to refer to the instructions and manuals many times.

Try to work in either metric or imperial (American) sizes, never both.

[TreverSlyFox]

I use to know a gunsmith the uses a Smithy Granite 1340 combo machine and he seemed pleased with it. But your looking at $4,000+ USD and it weighs about 700-800 lbs.