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View Full Version : Automotive Hydrogen/Oxygen Booster


Bacon46
July 12th, 2008, 11:53 AM
Since I have enough KClO3 to last for years I decided to use the anode and cathode from my chlorate cell to build H/O booster for my 2004 Chevy Blazer. You can find them on the internet ranging from $250.00 to $1250.00. They are small electrolysis cells that convert distilled water to hydrogen and oxygen using any number of electrolytes depending on the manufacturer. Some suggest white vinegar while others use sodium bicarbonate. They claim to increase millage from 20% to 40%, again, depending on the manufacturer. I don’t know if they work but the investment is small, between $150.00 U.S. and $300.00 U.S. depending on how fancy you want to get, the risk is low and the potential benefit is great. A 20% reduction in fuel consumption would save me $50.00 per month at the current price of $4.00 per gallon.

The one I am building is made from 4” ABS pipe. It runs on 12 to 15VDC @ 4 to 10A depending on the electrolyte temperature. The anode is 2” (50mm) x 6” (152mm) mixed metal oxide (MMO) coated titanium. The cathode is 2” (50mm) x 6” (152mm) uncoated titanium. The anode and cathode are spaced 1” (25.4mm) apart. Any closer and the electrolyte has a tendency to overheat, producing steam at an unacceptable level. It appears that the commercially available units use stainless steel electrodes which would be much cheaper.

The electrolyte I have chosen is 10g of sodium percarbonate per liter of distilled water. In the bench tests this electrolyte produces a respectable amount of H/O at startup when the electrolyte temperature is lower and the current being drawn is around 4 amps, and does not have a tendency to overheat as both of those parameters rise. Tests with higher concentrations of sodium percarbonate overheated during bench tests. All of the bench tests are being conducted in a controlled environment with an ambient temperature of 25C (78F). In the deserts of the southwestern U.S. temperatures in the summer frequently exceed 43C (110F) in the shade. Under the hood of a car with the engine running it has to be pushing 70C to 80C. I intend on controlling the electrolyte temperature by forcing air across the cell and regulating the voltage/current.

The hydrogen and oxygen mixture created by the cell will travel through a condensation trap to remove excess moisture before being drawn into the vehicles intake just before the throttle body. The water removed from the gas will be returned to the cell.

I am currently building the electronics necessary to monitor and control the voltage, current and temperature as well as a circuit that will simulate signals sent by the vehicles oxygen sensors so the fuel air mixture can be controlled manually via the emission control computer. Without “simulating” the oxygen sensors the extra oxygen being introduced into the system would cause the vehicles computer to increase the fuel flow defeating the purpose.

I will post detailed instructions, including electrical schematics, once the unit has been field tested; Assuming it works. The reason I am posting prior to field testing is I am not sure of the electrolyte. Are there any corrosive byproducts I need to be concerned about using sodium percarbonate? If so, does anyone have any suggestions for an alternative electrolyte that is readily available over the counter and not likely to be banned?

I would also like to hear from anyone who may have attempted this that could share whatever information they may have that may help me avoid unnecessary setbacks. Not that I can think of any necessary setbacks!

The image below is the unit being bench tested. It pumps out the H/O as soon as it starts. I am very optimistic.:D

The balloon attached to the outlet of the cell is full of hydrogen and oxygen. I decided to burn off the H/O like a torch by pissing it out and igniting it. DON’T DO THAT!:o

crazywhiteguy
July 14th, 2008, 11:44 PM
Me and my dad are making one that looks shockingly similar to yours. We used two sheets of stainless steel rolled into a cylinder I can only guess at the exact surface area but my rough calculations put in at 2000cm2. As a catalyst we are planning to use potassium Hydroxide but have yet to buy it. I suggest that you avoid using baking soda seeing as it gives off harmful gases and leaves deposits in your device. This read from the practical guide to free energy. The units comes apart into two peices; The top half with the anode and cathode attached and the container. So far we have managed to temporarily damage my hearing when lighting the bubbles with a propane torch. That was with 12A 12V. When the unit is done it will be put on a 03' malibu.