CurbShots Nanoscale synth Any thoughts on thisone?

BuseyBee · Fri Jun 03, 2005 10:12 pm

HERES the synth i wanted to get youre opinions on, everyone says its ok but that was at totse and i dont think there that reliable there...Appreciate any info on wheather this is a workable synth.... --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Acidmelts Slacker Reaction REVISED 4-25-2004
by Acidmelt
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Acidmelts Slacker Reaction
This reaction is brought about the same as every other push/pull rxn in the book. You have to know how to extract psuedoephedrine(E) and clean it, you have to know how to extract the red phosphorus(RP) off matchbooks (or where ever you get it from), and how to properly clean the red phosphorus. you must also know how to clean up your iodine(I2) to a proper grade.
As far as the cleaning of the E goes I would have to recommend using Wicked Rains TCE/JD Method, as it is quite new and will work with the latest pill formulas that the D.E.A. has released. Jam has a good A/B write up as well, you can use his or the one that I have written here. After the cook and A/B you have a choice to get it into Hcl form (salt form), you can either titrate with diluted Murry (muriatic acid) or you can gas with HCL gas. If you’re a beginner then I would recommend starting with titration. I will cover that later in the text.
I am not going to go into how to do these procedures (cleaning E, RP, I2) as they are covered in seperate pages on Totse. With this easy to follow synth, I will start at mixing the reactants and where to go from there. Keep in mind that this is only a dream and a very simple dream at that. I have never tried this and I have never met someone that has tried it. Its just well organized thoughts in a well organized matter. I don't condone this activity or any illegal activity for that matter. Don't try this at home.
What you will need:
Precursers:
1.Psuedoephedrine or Ephedrine (E)
2. Red Phosphorus (RP)
3.Iodine Crystals (I2)
Equipment:
1.Flask with nipple connection
2.Stopper (that fits the flask)
3.Electric Burner
4.Candy Thermometer
5.1and 1/2ft. of plastic tubing to fit on the nipple of your flask AND a balloon (regular balloon)
6.Separatory Funnel
7.Chemical Resistant latex gloves
8.Visionware Glass Bowl or pot.
9.Regular cooking pot
10.Distilled H2O and Ice
11.RedDevil Lye
12.Hydrocloric acid (Muriatic Acid)
13.Duct Tape
14.Litmus Paper
15.Non-Polar Solvent (VM&P Naptha, Toluene...)
ok here is how it goes... Put your gloves and glasses on. Use the 1 part E, to 1.2 parts I2, to .8parts RP ratio for reactions under 1oz. So for example you would use 10g of E, 12g of I2, and 8g of RP. First take the RP and the E and mix well in a plastic baggie. Take this and pour it into your flask, covering the bottom of it. Now put this flask in an ice bath. This consists of filling the bottom of a bowl or sink with ice and cold water. Set your flask in this. Now you are going to add a little DH20. Add about 2ml to 2.5ml if you are doing over 10 grams and under 1oz of E. If you are using less than 10g or E then you want to add about 1ml to 1.75ml of DH20.

Next pour in your I2 and close with a solid rubber stopper. Duct tape this on so it dont pop off during the reaction. you should all ready have your foot and a half of plastic tubing secured onto the nipple of the flask and securely taped there, and at the end of this tubing you will be taping (duct tape) on a balloon. Make sure that all of this is taped AIR TIGHT. After you get the 3 goodies mixed in the bottom of the flask you will want to hold the end of the tubing closed with your thumb.(gloves on!)(safety glasses too)
Sit back and watch it start to react slowly. Sometimes it will react right away and sometimes not. Just watch and see. It will react really slowly (that’s what you want) because it is in the ice bath. After about 10 minutes in the ice bath take it out and let it sit on the counter for about 20 minutes to get back up to room temperature. It will start turning to a muddy texture, and then to a liquid (might not turn liquid till its on the heat). You may notice that your balloon is a little bigger. This is from gasses produced by the reaction (Hi gas).
All right, everything going good so far? Not too hard huh? Now you will want to cook the reaction to get it going again. Before you start all of this put your regular cooking pot on your electric burner and find out where the dial is at 150F. So turn on your burner and set it at 150F. Put your cooking pot with vegetable oil in the bottom (just about 2 inches off the bottom) on the burner, and put your flask in that. After a few minutes this bitch will really get cookin. It will start bubbling and the mixture will expand. All in all it is going to start to get a little crazy. Every few minutes pick up the flask and swirl it up a little. You will notice that the balloon is getting big. That is fine. Let it do its thing. If the balloon is too smelly for you (you may smell a slight amount of Hi gas) then lay a wet towel over the top of the balloon.
Just keep this going for while. You will want to slowly turn up the heat to about 190F over a 1 hour period. The push part of the reaction will keep going for about 1.5 hours to 2 hours. It usually lasted for about 1.5 hours in my dreams. You will know when to stop cooking when the push stops and the bubbling slows.

When this has occured take the flask out of the pot and just set it on the counter. To save any extra stress on the flask set it on top of a towel. (the counter may be too cold for the flask if its not pyrex). While it is cooling to room temp you want to keep swirling the flask. You will notice that the gas that was in the balloon is getting sucked back into the flask and the balloon is deflating. This is good. It will probaly take about 20 minutes (if that) for the flask to cool down. You want it to be cool enough to hold in your hand with out burning yourself. Remember to keep stirring and shaking the flask during the cooling.
When the flask has cooled down to a suitable state, (room temp) then untape the rubber stopper and add 100ml of DH20 to the chili oil in the bottom of the flask. Shake up the chilli/H20 in the flask, and pour directly into the clean visionware bowl. now pour a little more distilled water into empty flask (just a little) and shake up real good. this is just to get out the rest of what ever is left in the flask. put the bowl on the burner and turn on high. bring to a boil while stirring with a clean plastic spoon. This will get the some chilli that is stuck on the RP off of it. Turn off the burner and let sit and cool to room temp.
While this is cooling off a little, grab your funnel and put in 3 coffee filters and stuff a cotton ball in the tip of the funnel. put this over a clean glass jar. now pour everything that is in the visionware bowl into the funnel. it will take a while to filter because of the RP. once all the ---- water is filtered through, into the glass jar, pour it back through the same filters (with the RP in it) again. you will want to do this at least 4 times. just keep pouring it through the same filter/cottonballs. now it should have a yellowish collor, but not foggy at all. it should be very clear. be sure to save all your RP so you can wash it and reuse it later.
THE A/B:
Prepare your lye solution ahead of time. You will need it soon. Do this by adding around 8-10 spoonfulls of lye to 100ml of DH20. Stir it up till its all dissolved. It will be hot. You want to let it cool to room temp before it using. It will clear up as it cools down too.

Pour this into your separatory funnel (the yellowish clear water/----), and add just a little ice. Now you are going to add your NP (non-polar) solvent. I would dream about using VM&P Naptha or toluene. For the matter of this write up I am going to say use toluene. Add a little less than the amount of water/---- you have in there (add like 75ml). When you look at the sep funnel now you will see that there are 2 layers in it. The top layer is the NP layer (toluene), and the bottom layer is the polar layer (water). Now slowly add a little lye solution to the sep. funnel, and shake well. drop a small drip onto your litmus paper to test the Ph. (you will be testing the water/---- layer, NOT the toluene layer) you want the Ph to be 13 or 14. if it is not a Ph of 13/14 then add a little more lye and shake the hell out of it and test again. keep doing this till it test out at 13/14. What is happening here is you are making the ---- into a freebase and pushing into the NP layer. So you want to be sure to shake it up real well to get it all in the NP. After it tests at 13/14 drop in a tablespoon of table salt, and shake well. Now we are going to seperate the layers in the funnel. We want to keep the NP Solvent (Toluene / top layer), not the water/lye layer (bottom).
Now you are going to make your Murry solution for the next step. To do this Add 15ml of Muriatic acid to 85ml of DH20. Stir it up a bit and set it aside. This is now diluted Hcl solution.

Put the water layer in a jar and set aside. You can do another A/B on it later. Keep the Toluene/---- in the seperatory funnel. Heat a big glass of new distilled H2O till it is hot. pour in one third the amount of water (compared to the Toluene) and shake well. drain the water out. repeat this 4 times. you are washing the NP Solvent.
TITRATING THE ----:
From this point on you can either titrate the ---- or gas it out. I am going to cover titrating because I feel that this is something that a beginner should learn before gassing. You only have to do one or the other.
Now add 30-40ml of DH20 to the sep. funnel and drop in a ml of Hcl solution. (Muriatic Acid solution from the paragraph above) Shake for a few minutes. Then test the ph of the water layer (bottom layer). You want it to test at 7.2 or at least close to that. If it doesnt, add another ml of Hcl solution and shake the hell out of it again and test again. Continue doing this till you get to the PH of 7 / 7.2 After it is the proper ph, drain the water layer into your CLEAN visionware bowl and put it on the hotplate and and heat till it starts to steam. Immediately take off the hotplate and put a fan on the bowl. Now you can let it finish by having the fan blowing on it OR you can finish with a hairdryer if you want. now go back to your toluene in the seperatory funnel and add a little more distilled water. we are going to do a second pull on the non-polar solvent. add another ml of Hcl solutioni and shake it up again. test the ph again. looking for 7.2 again. once you reach 7.2 again drain your ----/water into another clean visionware bowl. now evaporate again. remember that if your not in a hurry, evaporating it with a hair dryer will increase yeilds. Some chefs even do a third pull.
Thats it. you now have clean and pure crystal ----. Have Fun, and be safe.
Authors Note: This type of synth is called a Hot Dry cook. It produces a more euphoric product but it doesn’t last as long as Long Wet Dope. Long Wet cooks produce a product that has no Fireworks or euphoria, but it lasts longer. If you are looking for something that lasts for a real long time but is boring then you want to do a long wet cook.

BuseyBee · Fri Jun 03, 2005 10:17 pm

Heres the link to the synth im interested in...wondering if its any good???
http://www.totse.com/bbs/Forum26/HTML/004473.html
can anyone cosign on thisone??

loki · guinea pig

the more i read these how to guides, the more i realise that there is no substitute for havin the core principles and methods down pat. When you know what you are doing, you can string a sentence together about as long as this post which explains everything you need to know abouth the sequence when you know the basics already.

and just a minor comment - i don't think that the DEA is behind the gakloading, people are making patents combining funny polymers to create slow release systems. lots of money involved... and probably cost cutting as well... As far as i can see from what i am reading, mostly it is just making imagination and research more important, and knowing the pill your swim has in front of them, it's inactive contents, and actives, what everything is soluble in, and coming up with a plan which allows you co remove the problem stuff and get the goods out at a decent yield.

put it this way. swil has a local pill (it is an internationally common pill in fact) which has evil nasty povidone in it. DEATH you all say.... well no, it was actually easy to get 800mg out of a 1200mg theoretical yield. The key to success seemed to be that a microwave oven maked the pill fall apart rapidly. meaning the goods could be dissolved in water and very little of the (slow dissolving) povidone came out. Was basically just an a/b to crunchy crystals, slightly off colour but not bad, all considered. had swil known the better ways to do rextal would have made them glassy. and product turned out ok except swil was impatient and didn't let it go for long enuf, and put too much I2 in. bright yellow. but yield was decent for a small batch, about 600mg out of 800mg of precursor. (gotta cook it longer, 2 hours is min, imho, 4 hours seems the logical time).

DrugPhreak · Working Bee

With a LWR I seriously doubt even 1% of the feed would be reduced at the one hour mark.

loki · guinea pig

well, swil was not doin a lwr, just the old hot dry method. with the dry method, imo 2 hours is the minimum, and careful to not make it too hot, just enuf so you see good bubbling goin down. hot/dry is more applicable to the newbie, but of course does not do the job quite as well. also, if one uses hypo, the whole reaction is done in pretty much an hour anyway.

i'm not sure about that guide suggesting to use a corked vessel, the pressure inside can get pretty high, especially when the reaction kicks off.

DrugPhreak · Working Bee

Oh... I was responding to hAzzBEEn. I probably should have quoted them. Yep, a hot/dry or P/P will bee done in no time. Maybe hAzzBEEn meant a hot/dry cook.

Sektor · Sat Jun 04, 2005 8:41 am

wtih the RP cleaning procedure, refering to the Sulphuric acid boil, does one have to use only Sulphuric for the boil?, or if in swims case and cannot get hold of it but can get hold of HCL acid can this be used instead of the Sulphuric? thanks

loki · guinea pig

hcl is all swil ever uses. followed by basifying the water and settling it out and then decanting, and 3 more boils of plain water. this is after the ethanol scrub, tolly wash, and then acetone wash. all steps done as boil/settle/decant. final step is to dry it out and make sure it goes nice and powdery. if it's not nice and powdery, repeat the washes (starting with ethanol).

BuseyBee · Sat Jun 04, 2005 10:16 am

When extracting the Red P from matches should i use regular acetone or dry acetone? Also...when drying the acetone how much epsalm salts compared to how much Acetone??? And then 4 how long dus it have to soak in the tone before being filtered out?

Youre answers are INVAUABLE to swim.

loki · guinea pig

for scrubbing the matchbox rp off, ethanol is the stuff to use. wet acetone is fine for rp washing. my personal opinion is you put the (whichever solvent) and rp, in a beaker or whatever, then stand it in freshly boiled water until it boils and agitates the rp everywhere. then take it out, let it settle down, then carefully decant. the heat improves the removal of shite. The acid cleaning step you can cook it up in a microwave, just until it starts to bubble a bit. then put alkaline water into it until its nice and base and let it settle and decant. the microwave can be used to heat ethanol and wet acetone too... doesn't take very long for them to boil up either.

usually you put the baked epsom salts in the solvent you put a small amount at a time and watch it for hydration (swells, clumps, as it gets wet) and stop when new anhydrous epsom salts ceases to hydrate. usually doesn't take much, but do it bit at a time.

Elementary · Mon Jun 06, 2005 2:55 pm

I agree that nanocale reactions don't always work too well.

Swim done a Wizard X reduction using half the amounts stated in a 250ml flask and found yields to be very low. Reactions using less than 8 grams of E are best to be avoided.

Wizard X's procedure using reflux set-up rather than pushpull is a lot safer if you have the correct glassware. It is easier to contain 57% hydriodic acid than it is hydrogen iodide.

hAzzBEEn · Tue Jun 07, 2005 11:15 pm

I am not exactly familiar with all of your terminology. I guess LWR is ___ ___ reflux, fill in the blanks if you don't mind. That would explain the need for four hours. I have never heard the term hot/dry, either. I could guess and say that SWIM has used this method before because no water was added - hence, dry. Also the push/pull method is, in SWIM's opinion, a favorite method because there is hardly any stink. Things do need to be thought out because of the small amount of pressure involved.

The post above (acidmelt/slacker) does not suggest using a sealed vessel.

hAzzBEEn · Tue Jun 07, 2005 11:28 pm

I just looked back over that method.

Elementary · Wed Jun 08, 2005 3:11 pm

I've always been worried that using a balloon is dangerous, the main reason being is that HI attacks rubber, one really doesn't need a balloon full of HI bursting.

It can't be too hard to build a simple push-pull set up like the "pink pencil", or using two plastic petrol cans.

Elementary · Fri Jun 24, 2005 2:28 pm

I would not recommend adding conc phosphoric acid (pH Down) to start the curbshot reaction, as swim did and phosphine was generated when the balloon was removed and the water added (bang ! bang !).

The use of dilute phosphoric acid maybe wiser.

Also when performing the curby, make sure you wash all the crystals out of the balloon when the reaction has finished, half the goodies are there.