Author Topic: METHod for us morons  (Read 15111 times)

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ampdup

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METHod for us morons
« on: October 23, 2004, 04:59:00 PM »
Meth Makin’ for the Chemically Challenged

Gathering Supplies

Materials List                  
Hardware Store                                            Grocery, Dollar, or Dept. Store
5’ of 1 ¼” reinforced PVC pipe                   
can of Red Devil Lye
1 gallon Acetone                                           25 boxes of matches
1 gallon Denatured Alcohol                            2 gallons Distilled (DH2O) Water
1 gallon Muratic Acid 33%                            rubber/latex gloves
2 or 3 gallon Glass Jars w/ lids                     coffee filters
10’ – 15’ Airline (aquarium) tubing               1 case Qt. Canning Jars                               

Auto Parts Store                                           Pharmacy                             -
3 cans CRC Brakekleen                                10-15 boxes of Sudafed (see notes below)
1 roll of black tape                                         8 pints Hydrogen Peroxide
4 hose clamps

Farm Equipment Store
1 gallon 7% tincture Iodine

Notes on Supplies:
Sudafed or it’s generic equivalent comes in many sizes and dosages.  Normally the 120mg ones are the most practical.  1 box = 10  120 mg pills (1200 mg).  So a box w/ 20 pills = 2 boxes.  The ones with the red coating can be used, just have to soak them in DH2O until the candy coating dissolves.
CRC BRAKEKLEEN has many generic equivalents, however never tested the water to see if it made a difference.  A lot of work to put a batch together.  Shame to blow it over a dollar or 2 in savings.  Theoretically it would work as long as the ingredients are the same.  It’s up to you.
**UPDATE**  Anonymous Clandestine Chemist uses generic brake cleaner with great success  !!   CRC stock drops 10 points  !! News at 11.
Obviously, some items (like pills) , could appear in multiple lists. Please be smart and don’t try to buy all your pills, matches, whatever, in one stop.  You probably shouldn’t buy all the stuff too often in the same store.  Use some common sense and bee careful.  It’s no big secret that Big Brother knows what’s in Meth, and how bee’s make honey,  and some stores may take note of unusual purchases.  I know of a few stores that wont let you buy acetone and denatured alcohol at one time, and many stores are limiting the purchase of pills to 3 boxes per customer. 

To sort all this out in my own head, I broke down all my info that I had prior to finding the hive (normal black text), things I read here and tried that failed or I just didn’t like(red text) and things I learned here that worked, so I added it to my formula (blue text).
DISCLAIMER: Just cause they didn’t work for me, am I in no way claiming the info is bad, false, or bullshit.  Just something that I couldn’t get to work, due to any reason, whatsoever.  Could be my lack of any chemistry background, failure to grasp the concept, or possibly it WAS bullshit info.

Step One ~ Extraction
Nothing new here.  But for the sake of argument and for any Newbee lookin on, here’s how it’s done.
Get a quart jar and fill it ¾ of the way with denatured alcohol.  Somebees prefer naptha, others Heet, but I just think that denatured Alcohol is the cleanest choice.  Your mileage at home may vary.
Take 10-15 boxes of pills (see supply notes above) and crush them in the bubble pack with pliers. Now soak them for about an hour in the refrigerator, shaking them up every 15 mins. Or so.  Stick them in the freezer for the last 15 mins.  This is so the wax and inert trash  will solidify from the cold and be easier to filter out. Now let the stuff settle and then pour off the top layer of liquid.  Don’t sweat getting it all this time, cause we will now refill the jar with more alcohol and repeat the process.
Take the liquid and pour it through a coffee filter.  Some will go through on its own, and the rest you can force through by twisting the filter.  Run it through a new filter a 2nd time. If your alcohol is icy cold, I found it unnecessary to do it any more than twice. More times through the filters didn’t seem to improve the overall quality at the end any, and just resulted in mechanical loss of Psudeo.
Evaporate off the alcohol in your preferred method.  I do mine on the stove in a Teflon frying pan and scrape out the E powder with a credit card.  BEECAREFUL OF THE RELATIVELY LOW FLASH POINT OF ALCOHOL.  SWIM has a scar the size of his fist on his leg to remind him not to boil, but simmer.  Watch carefully, as it seems to evaporate all of a sudden.  When you see the stuff around the edges crystallize and turn white, remove it from the heat.  The rest of the stuff should follow suite and harden, if not, give it a few more seconds and pull off.  Don’t burn your E !!  I noted that using overheated E doesn’t seem to effect the overall quality, but effects the quantity, so if you burn it, screw it.  Scrape the good stuff on the edges and throw the junk away.  Let the pan cool in-between uses.  Roughly, doing 2 pulls off the pill jar nets 20-25 grams of fluffy white E.
Put aside to dry completely, then crush into powder.


ampdup

  • Guest
On with the show
« Reply #1 on: October 23, 2004, 05:03:00 PM »
Step 2  Iodine crystals

Take a gallon glass jar and set it inside a trash bag.  Use the following formula;
2 pints 7% tinicture Iodine  / 4 pints Hydrogen peroxide  /  ½ cup DH2O  / 2 ozs. Muratic acid

Combine all in the jar.  CAREFULLY shake and wrap it up in the trash bag and stick it someplace dark for 30 minutes.  Take a pasta strainer and put a filter in the basket, slowly pour out the liquid, catching the crystals in the filter and the fluid in a clean container.  Take the fluid and stick it back in the jar, add a splash more DH2O and acid, and then take a piece of tinfoil about the size of your hand and wad it up and toss in the jar.  Stick it back in the jar and let it sit another 45mins. to an hour.  Filter.
With the crystals in the filter (and latex gloves on your hands) pour DH20 over and rinse the crystals.  Squeeze out the excess water and dump crystals into a new filter.  Pour water over the old one to get all of it off and rinse like this for 4 times.  This is important!! Excess iodine makes for some nasty tastin shit.  Now wrap the filters loosely in a wad of paper towels and stick somewhere dark for a while.  The drier you get them, the better you are. Let them set for a day or more if possible. Unwrap them and put in a tightly lidded jar that is wrapped in black tape to store.  Air and light is not your friend here. Net yield should be 80-100g of crystals, give or take.

Step 3 Red Phosphorous (mbrp)

Having read many ways to do this, from building a bucket contraption to using a dremel tool,  all those methods are either time consuming, messy, or wasteful, IMHO. Here’s a quick and easy method that once you do it a few times, you should be able to knock out 20 boxes of matches in about an hour’s time and use less then ½ quart of acetone. Wear gloves, tho, the shit’s hard on your hands.

Rip off the covers on the matches as close to the striker as you can.  The way I find easiest is to open the book, grab the matches and tear them out taking the front flap of the cover with them.  When that’s done, pour a little acetone in a cup and dip the covers just long and deep enough to wet the strikers.  Do about 20 at a time in a stack. Stick something over the cup so your acetone doesn’t evaporate away.  Lay them down on a piece of cardboard and with a 1 sided razor blade, lightly scrape the blade over the striker.  You should be able to get it all in one stroke.  If you miss a little, don’t waste your time digging for it.  All you end up doing is getting a bunch of trash in your RP.  When the stack is done, use the last cover and scrape the RP off the blade and into a filter to dry. When you get them all done, take any old RP you plan on using and soak it in the acetone you have left in your cup and then filter it and dry it out.  Done deal.

Many will likely scoff at the seemingly lack of washes and other cleaning methods they use in the prep of the E, Io, and RP.  I have tried most of them I have read, and find them overkill or wasteful.  Done right, the end product will burn clear, leaving little or no residue on the foil, and crack back like a stained glass window.   The key here is DRY ingredients and clean work habits.  Never use soap to clean your glassware.  Just hot water and acetone rinse is plenty. Throw away jars that you can’t get clean this way and get new ones.  Canning jars are only 8 bucks a case.  A failed batch can run about 200 bucks, you decide.


ampdup

  • Guest
Moving right along
« Reply #2 on: October 23, 2004, 05:06:00 PM »
STEP 4  REACTION

Depending on available time and demand, you can do either a long wet reaction or a dry quickie.  LWR will result in slightly cleaner snapper and higher yields.  The quickie way can be done and cleaned up in under 3 hours.  Apples and oranges.  Use this formula for both methods:

1.5g I crystals  to  1g E powder to .6g MBRP
                    and
 3ml per gram of E for LWR and none for quickie of DH20.
use more (as much as 1g) MBRP if you are using recycled RP.  Any not consumed will return to you anyways.
Now get a 4-5 ft section of reinforced, 1 ¼ inch PVC hose and take a 2 liter soda bottle and attach it with a hose clamp.  Heat the rubber with a torch to aid in sealing it and tighten the clamp.  Pour a cup or so of DH20 down the tube and into the bottle.  Hang the bottle over a door, chair, the dog, whatever so the water cant spill back down the hose.  On the other end, attach your reaction flask ( a thick wine bottle or similar if you don’t have any lab glass will work in a pinch, but watch close for cracks and stuff) with dual hose clamps.  Adjust them for a quick seal and remove the bottle.  Now put your E,I, RP, and Dh20 (if needed) into your flask and shake the shit out of it.  Bee aware for any instantaneous reaction and be ready to attach the hose quickly if it takes off right away.  When good and mixed, attach the hose and clamp tightly.  Take a canning jar lid or something to keep the flask from sitting directly on the burner element and turn the heat on low to medium low.  Although I haven’t tried it, a wok filled with peanut oil  sounds like a better way to control temp and even heating, but seems like the oil might make a mess when you shake the flask to mix the contents. Also, the addition of a condenser is recommended between the flask and hose, to keep the reaction inside the flask.  If I understand the “hose and jar” method as I think I do, the soda bottle w/ water inside is sort of a condenser in itself.  The water is in case your reaction goes dry, you develop a flask fire, and/or rinsing the hose and flask when the cook is done.   You can experiment if you see the need.
This is a critical moment.  Pay attention.  Look for escaping vapors or cracks in the glass.  Listen for “tink” sounds of a failing flask or condenser (if used) and gas escaping from loose clamps.  Retighten the clamps and check them often as the reaction heats up.  Watch the contents of the flask closely as the reaction starts bubbling and check for any thick smoke (flask fire).  You can stop the reaction by removing the heat and shaking the flask or flood the reaction with the water in the bottle if it starts to get away from you.  Swirling “snow” is normal and an indication that it’s working.  The hose will start to turn a reddish color and the contents of the flask will liquefy and may cling to the sides.  The condensation will run back down the hose and into the reaction and soon the glass will be easier to see through.  SWIM has never measured the temp, but through trial and error knows roughly where to set the dial as it settles down (just under medium) and starts cooking away.  Shake the bottle often, and tap on the hose lightly to make the drops run back into the flask.  Sit back and watch carefully for any sign of leaks and let it go for about an hour (quickie) or reduce the heat slightly and let it run for 12 or more hours for a LWR.

STEP 5  post reaction
When the reaction has run its course, shake the bottle and see if the RP has begun to reform into solid pieces.  Soupy thick gunk is an indicator that it isn’t done. As far as I know, you can’t really overcook it, so cook on! It’s easier than trying to reduce the water again and restart the reaction, so be sure its done before flooding the flask.  SWIM turns off the heat and lets it cool, shaking occasionally.  As the soda bottle collapses, loosen the hose clamp slightly and let a little gas escape.  If it has a strong pungent odor  (once you have smelled that “done dope” smell, you never forget it) and the RP is in a semi solid state, the meth gods have smiled upon you.  Retighten the clamp and let it cool until you can handle the flask comfortably.  Tilt the soda bottle upright and flood the flask.  Undo the clamps at the flask end and remove the flask.  Pour contents into a jar and splash a bit of ice cold DH20 in to cool the liquid and solidify the RP.  Pour a cup or 2 more DH20 into the hose and swirl around to rinse the soda bottle and hose.  Stick the hose back on the flask and drain the hose into it.  Remove the hose and put/throw it away.  Take a piece of pantyhose, cheesecloth, or paint strainer and wet it w/ DH20.  Pour the stuff that came out of the flask through the filter and collect any RP that is in it.  Put the RP back into the flask and heat the flask to a boil.  Let it roll for 10 minutes or so and pour that through the filter, collect the RP and repeat one more time.  There’s nectar trapped in the stuff, and we want it all!   Finally, collect all the remaining RP and give it an acetone bath, dry and save for the next time.

Soak a coffee filter in DH20 and take a regular old funnel and make a “charmin plug” by folding up a chunk of paper towel or (unsented) toilet paper and push it loosely into the bottom of the funnel. Lay the soaked filter inside the funnel, like you were making coffee, and then pour all the collected nectar through it.  As it is draining, get a gallon jar and put ½ gallon of DH20 in it.  Get a bottle of Red Devil Lye and put ¼ to ½ of it into the water and stir.  Watch it! It gets hot and burns if you splash it around.  Stick the “motherjar” into the freezer and let it chill out.  Go back and refilter the nectar through the same filters (if possible) 2 or 3 times.  Then make a fresh filter set up and filter it again.  There should be very little if any, RP collected in the filter and the nectar should be a clear reddish color.  Let your filters dry and you can get the RP back from them as well.  Beats scrapin matches.

Time for the magic trick.  Get your now chilly lye mixture and pour the nectar into it.  PRESTO!  Like magic, the red color should vanish and you should be looking at a milky white motherjar.  Take 2 cans of brakekleen and spray entire contents into the motherjar.  When done, pick up the jar and give it a good hard shake.  There should be 3 clearly defined layers in the jar..  Let it settle for 15-20 minutes and then siphon out the bottom layer, being careful to avoid getting any of the middle lye layer.  Use a long piece of aquarium tubing and you can stop the flow as it enters the tube.


ampdup

  • Guest
The final act and roll the credits
« Reply #3 on: October 23, 2004, 05:39:00 PM »
Step 6 gassing
This is where any simularities to anything I have read in the hive end.  Keep in mind, SWIM has no, nada, none, zero zilch experience or training in chemistry, hell, i didnt even take basic chem in high school, so bear with me and forgive my ignorance. On with the last act;
Take a long piece of tubing and wrap one end in black tape until it fits like a cork in the neck of a thick glass bottle.  Pour an inch or 2 of muratic acid into the bottle and wad up a piece of foil.  Drop it in and plug the neck with your hose.  In a moment, the foil and acid reacts and a corrosive gas starts shooting out the hose.  Stick the end of the tube into your jar of goodies and swirl for just a second or 2.  You should see the fluid begin to cloud up instantly.  Let the stuff breathe for a moment, and then gas a few seconds more.  Only do this a few times.
Wear a respirator throughout the gassing process!!
Overgassing will turn the stuff brown and make it nasty tasting.  You will only do it once.  If you do accidentally overgas , pour the fluid back into the motherjar and re-siphon, or dry and use the brown shit as E in the next batch.  Let it “rest” and let all the gas escape. You will see a cloudy layer in the jar.  That’s the stuff!!  Now just pour all the liquid through a double coffee filter and let drain.  Hang the filters up to dry and collect the fluid and repeat the gassing process until you cant get any more out of the fluid.  Pour the fluid back into the mother jar and put it into the fridge.  After it chills, you can do it all again and get more.  You may need to add a ½ can more of brakekleen if nothing returns.  Sometimes a third pull is possible.  Make sure you get it all!

After the filters dry, shake them out onto a plate and smoke/snort/slam away!
A Common yield for a 20g E cook is 10-13 g of stuff for a quickie, slightly more for a LWR.  Not as good as some I have read in the hive, but with a ton less aggravation with all the washin and ph testing and other steps that does nothing more than confuse the shit outta me and my  non-lab rat buddies.

There ya go.  Do with it what you will.  It’s a  no-brainer method that anyone with ½ a clue can attempt.  As a matter of fact, if you do it correctly up to step 4, you would be hard pressed to STOP it from turning out right.

ROLL THE CREDITS

The person whom I got most of this method did everything in her power NOT to show me, withheld quantities, and as a matter of fact, gave me bogus numbers to confuse me. (worked like a charm)  When we parted ways, I was left with a 90% complete method of which 10% was misinformation.  The rest I guessed at until I found the hive.  I am amazed knowing what I do now, that SWIM even got anything at all out of his early attempts.  Be nice with your critisism, I am trying my best.

Thanks to Geezmiester, pookie, biffman, labtop, ware, jacked, unobtainium, stonium, wizard x, shorty, osium, warlock, and of course rhodium for your support and excellent work and informative threads.  Extra thanks to geezmeister (for remebering what its like to bee new) and biffman (for patience and support)

Even if this thread gets flamed to no end, maybe my mistakes and research can help a struggling bee, if nothing more than by illustrating what NOT to do.

SWIA doesnt work for me, cause I dont know ANYONE who isnt amped up.   Keep grinnin.

Amp
Disclaimer: This report is a discussion, in theory, of one of many possible methods used when dealing with the fabrication of a controlled substance.  It’s purpose is to suggest possible techniques for academic purposes only, as the actual production of this controlled substance is illegal and inherently dangerous and possibly a health hazard.  In other words: Do not try this at home, kiddies.


xtc4fun

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all that typing and ur first step with pill...
« Reply #4 on: October 23, 2004, 06:36:00 PM »
all that typing and ur first step with pill cleaning isn't goin to work so i would of justt stopped there..........read alittle more before posting something like this...UTFSE

Amnesia

  • Guest
Ill be the first to say that the extraction is
« Reply #5 on: October 23, 2004, 08:00:00 PM »
Ill be the first to say that the extraction is alot of bullshit and leaves me to wonder if you have actually tried this.
Just an alky pull on pills will leave you with more GAK than pseudo.

"Somebees prefer naptha, others Heet, but I just think that denatured Alcohol is the cleanest choice."

So you can interchange alcohol with naptha can you? either you stuffed up or dont know what your talking about, but i suggest you fix up or remove your extraction technique before you confuse to many newbees. Misinformation is what we want to stop here.

spaceman1964

  • Guest
been dreamin
« Reply #6 on: October 23, 2004, 08:39:00 PM »
swis has used this method with sucess until recently (extraction), but has been using NOS pfed(14-18mos). swis buys his limit at every grocery store visit no matter what!  STOCKPILE!  swis did this before he knew what GAK was!  swis relys on the hive for his knowledge because he is not trained. is just now having major problems (see recent posts).  geez has made me see the light! (thanks geez).  swis uses evil scriptors  extract now on his feedstock with 100% success.  swis would be back in the dark without the hive!  maybe amped is using NOS, i dont know.  somebees maybee stealin from grandmas old cupboard.  anyways this bee ssays,  dont convict until u know the answers.  nuff said....


Stan_desCline

  • Guest
Re: Extraction..
« Reply #7 on: October 24, 2004, 03:45:00 AM »
SWIM knows of a formerly brand name but more recently seems to be being marketed as generic white 60/triprolidine sold in his area that still gives a fairly clean product with just an alcohol pull. Not to say that the pseudoephedrine would be reaction worthy at that point, but I have seen people try to cook with dirtier. SWIM pulled these jurassic formulated ghosts with 95% ethanol after being turned on to their unique cleanliness by AFOAF, and was amazed at the amount of pinwheels from so little effort. The only obvious adulterant was a chalky white powder that dried really hard and crunchy around the edges. A quick A/B with NaOH/95% ethanol and toluene yielded almost 80% of theoretical. These things are reportedly being used by every cook in the county now, so they probably have a radioactive or GPS based chemical tag inserted into the matrix. These are too easy. They will run out, inevitably, just like every other gift from the DEA but until then...


Amnesia

  • Guest
"they probably have a radioactive or GPS...
« Reply #8 on: October 24, 2004, 06:23:00 AM »
"they probably have a radioactive or GPS based chemical tag inserted into the matrix"

Your just mucking around right? or just havnt sleept in a few days I'd say?

Anyways back to the original post, sure their prob are pills out their that can be extracted with just alky that will make it through an reaction. But no doubt your end product wont be any as good as what it could be.

This site (well the stimulants forum) is all about getting the BEST one can get.

and a one pot write up on how to make gogo should not go like that, if you want a write up like that go over to totse. Dont garbage these forums with misleading info like that (especially when the same shit has been posted a million times before), because all it does is cause more trouble and headaches for the newbees and the regulars. Thats swims 2 cents.

ampdup

  • Guest
couldnt care less what you think
« Reply #9 on: October 24, 2004, 08:15:00 AM »
SWIM has had back to back to back successes with this.  I didnt post it for your approval.  It is a proven method tested over and over that I wanted to share.  Why would anyone post something that they never have tried??  Oh, you think this is some sort of popularity contest...well, I aint here to impress anyone....dont take my word for it have SWIyou make a nano batch.  Some bees obvioiusly know it all, so Im sure SWIyou will have no problems. mkaybe you should test your theory (or prove mine wrong) before you run your mouth and look like an ass.....sheesh

Sorry to disappoint you, it does work...and well, at that.


ampdup

  • Guest
and BTW
« Reply #10 on: October 24, 2004, 09:40:00 AM »
One of many pages I bookmarked in my research phase

Post 203747 (missing)

(obituary: "Alcohol use in extraction", Newbee Forum)
search engine results] In French cooking there is a saying; "Mise en Place" (meez-en-plahhs) which loosely translates to "Everything in it's place" which means that before you start a project, you should make sure you have all your ingredients and tools you will need to totally complete your dish without running all over at the last second for things.  I did my leg work, collected my bookmarks, SWIM made sure they had 5 back to back successes using the rough draft as if it was the final word and set in stone (which became success no. 6) before he posted this thread.   I wouldnt pass on false info to new bees! This shit is hard enough without adding MORE lies and bogus info into the site.  I have been trying to make things easier for new bees to find info and ask questions they have on the subject.  This shit can be DANGEROUS if mishandled and SWIM knows this 1st hand, as his leg is still seeping and bleeding from the 3rd degree burn he got from an accident that may have been avoided by asking a simple question. Your comments and accusations carry no merit and should be sticken from the thread as irrelivent, because you didnt UTFSE to back up your claims.  And if you had, you wouldnt have posted in the 1st place because you, sir, are wrong.  Maybe if you had tried it you might have even enjoyed it or (gasp!) learned something new, like how to use alcohol in the extraction phase.

As for your personal attack of my integrity and character, I am insulted that you would think that low of me as to post something I hadnt tried or didnt work,  but you dont know me, and seeing as how you posted without reading it through or researching your claims before posting the wrong info, I dismiss it as white noise


spaceman1964

  • Guest
GPS?
« Reply #11 on: October 24, 2004, 10:10:00 AM »
is this why swim is being constantly followed?  these are the same pills that are being gobbled up in my area also, and have been told they clean up well with  a simple A/B.  swis will find out after he gets these people off his tail ::) !


Jacked

  • Guest
reply
« Reply #12 on: October 24, 2004, 11:32:00 AM »
Please remove me from your list of credits.


Amnesia

  • Guest
I dont think i have meet anyone so stubborn...
« Reply #13 on: October 24, 2004, 06:19:00 PM »
I dont think i have meet anyone so stubborn... actually their have been heaps of guys like you here.

so Im sure SWIyou will have no problems. mkaybe you should test your theory (or prove mine wrong) before you run your mouth and look like an ass.....sheesh

Well i have proven yours wrong, swim has tried an alcohol extract on every single pill he can get his hands on back in his day... NONE WORK! there you happy?

You know that post you linked to

Post 203747 (missing)

(obituary: "Alcohol use in extraction", Newbee Forum)
its almost 4 years old! in the last 4 years pills have changed more then they have since they first released the beloved decongestant onto the market!

Swim has his method that is tried and true, methods that are posted all over the hive that can be easily found.

Your comments and accusations carry no merit and should be sticken from the thread as irrelivent

All i was doing was pointing out that an alcohol extract is EXTREMELY old and will not work 99% of the time, if it works for you then good on ya you lucky basterd, but to the rest of the world you are just misleading newbees and that is NOT WHAT we want here, go read the disclaimer at the intro page.

If you truly are here to help bees out then why are you posting redudant info that can be easily found and is EXTREMELY outdated, you should add in your disclaimer that this technique is outdated and 99% chance will not work.

And why did you say that naptha and alcohol can be exchanged? that statement alone made me think and im sure made many other bees think you have no idea what you are talking about, all im trying to do is protect the integrity of the info here at the hive.

Scottydog

  • Guest
ampdUP
« Reply #14 on: October 24, 2004, 08:09:00 PM »
Are you referring to US pills or another country?

If you are referring to US pills, from what SWIM tells me, you may bee part of the minority. In SWIM's area there are no pseudo pills available that can bee pulled with just an alcohol extraction (with no pre-cleaning)

In SWIM's area, it is his understanding that they are all contaminated with eudragit with the exception of some of the 30mg redhots but even these can't bee pulled with alcohol alone, without ending with adulterated end product.

I imagine you may bee part of the minority, living in an area with cleaner pills but to promote your write-up with an extraction that may not work for over 95% of US bees, may severely upset some people who follow it, expecting pristine results but ending with a blob of oily crap thats fails to dry. Something to think about...

I believe there are like 3 or 4 different extraction techniques/writeUPs on these boards that will still work depending on the pillstock, in "universal" terms, everything else is outdated and obsolete.

More powder to ya if your A-Z works for SWIY in his world. If or when the gakk arrives in your neighborhood, the information is here.

Amnesia = Jemma?  ;D


Amnesia

  • Guest
im not jemma, you trippa :-o jemmas back with...
« Reply #15 on: October 24, 2004, 08:55:00 PM »

tina_craig

  • Guest
wow, and all this time swit_c thought this...
« Reply #16 on: October 25, 2004, 09:50:00 AM »

ampdup

  • Guest
Ripley would have a field day in here
« Reply #17 on: October 25, 2004, 11:15:00 AM »
Look dude, whatever.  All I know is what I know.  SWIM have been using this extraction method over a year now.  SWIM uses name brand or store generic 120s "12 hour" pills, only.  None of the others with the sinus, cough and cold, or other variations.  SWIM lives in the U.S. and has never had any problems (in regards to extraction) other than the occassional batch of smurfdope. SWIMs yields are not usually more than 50%, but they burn clear with just a slight residue at the very end and crack back almost instantly. 

I'm over it, to tell you the truth.  I have had 3 bees PM me and thanked me for a working method that doesnt take a degree in physics to understand. Not trying to rain on anyone's parade or change the new world order, just give back what was given to me.  And it helped 3 bees for sure that I know of, and it woulda been worth any amount of grief as long as it had helped only one, so I claim mission accomplished.  I'm not stupid, but I'm not sure if I hadn't had most of the limited knowlegdge I do have on this subject, that I could have ever followed some of the methods in here and ever gotten it right.  Someone posted in a thread once that you should get what you need to know out of here then get out.  I am starting to see what he means.  Hell, the best part of this commmunity (with a few exceptions) hang out on the couch.

Believe it, dont believe it, flame, scoff, pick your nose....whatever you want.  I couldnt care less.  Sorry if I offended you, but i worked hard on this and your responces caught me off guard.  I am usually fairly mellow and try to get along with everyone.  I'm over it.  Peace.


tina_craig

  • Guest
Just fuckin' with you man...
« Reply #18 on: October 25, 2004, 11:25:00 AM »

Scottydog

  • Guest
Denatured with 120s?
« Reply #19 on: October 25, 2004, 06:04:00 PM »
"SWIM uses name brand or store generic 120s "12 hour" pills, only. SWIM lives in the U.S. and has never had any problems (in regards to extraction) other than the occassional batch of smurfdope."

Smurfdope usually results in a blue product or a product that burns blue with heat. It also denotes the presence of antihistamines. 120mg (US pills) do not contain antihistamines.  :o

After having read your most recent responses, I have to say that I think you are full of shit. Even the 120 mg generic and name brand pills that were around over 2 yrs ago, wouldn't pull clean with denatured, without the assistance of tyvek filtration or some kind of teabag filtration method.

How old are the lot numbers on your pseudo boxes? 5 years old? 120's are probably the most gakked pill available. They all contain eudragit!!

For the sake of over 95% of the hive, I call bullshit and recommend his post bee labeled as misinforming.  >:(