Author Topic: tried every thing wont come loose  (Read 47828 times)

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  • Guest
tried every thing wont come loose
« on: July 13, 2004, 05:04:00 PM »
hive looked through tfse and found some probable solutions to a stuck groud glas joint....tried them all.and the SOB still wont come out...the joint is on a condenser and a adapter is stuck on the male end...need opinions on more drastic solutions without breaking the end off of condenser


  • Guest
Perhaps if you tell us what you've tried, you...
« Reply #1 on: July 13, 2004, 05:11:00 PM »
Perhaps if you tell us what you've tried, you won't hear a bunch of things repeated.


  • Guest
ive tried soaking in pop,ive tried the ...
« Reply #2 on: July 13, 2004, 05:22:00 PM »
ive tried soaking in pop,ive tried the freezer,the heat,wd40,brake cleaner,and 3 or 4 others that cant remember off the top of my noggin...bout ready to break out theBFH!!


  • Guest
Glycerin's always worked for me...Add some...
« Reply #3 on: July 13, 2004, 07:43:00 PM »
Glycerin's always worked for me...Add some along the stuck joint so it can seep in, thn seperate.


  • Guest
Hair dryer
« Reply #4 on: July 14, 2004, 02:23:00 AM »
A Hair dryer works nice here. Hold it in such a way as to heat up only the part you want to expand a bit, in your case the adapter and not the condenser.


  • Guest
Make that a real heat gun, or an open flame.
« Reply #5 on: July 14, 2004, 02:47:00 AM »
Make that a real heat gun, or an open flame. A hairdryer is usually not hot enough to sufficiently heat and expand that glass on the outside part of the stuck joint without heating up the inner part too.
The glycerine will crawl into the joint more easily too when it is hot due to its reduced viscosity.


  • Guest
got it out
« Reply #6 on: July 14, 2004, 09:53:00 PM »
thanks guys...all the suggestions were good what the fuk,i tried them all...not sure wich was the deciding factor but i still think the BFH made the difference


  • Guest
Creative Mechanistic Solutions
« Reply #7 on: September 04, 2004, 02:37:00 AM »
Interesting solutions from Handbook of Laboratory Unit Opertations for Chemists and Chemical Engineers  ;)

Releasing a stuck cock plug is an unpleasant operation which can be made much easier by using the device illustrated. Steel fork (1) is put on the cock and contracted by ring (2). As screw (3) is turned, it presses the plug from its seat. Metal packing (4) reduces the friction and distributes the pressure over the entire surface of the plug.

If necessary, the plug can also be unstuck in an ordinary vise, supporting the top of the body by one jaw and the bottom of the plug by the other. Aluminium sheet packings are put between the jaws and the glass before the vise is actuated.



  • Guest
Freeing Frozen or Stuck Glass Joints
« Reply #8 on: November 12, 2004, 04:24:00 PM »
Freeing frozen or stuck glass joints are not uncommon requests of the glassblower. Each frozen joint presents its own "unique" problem - (cause, age, apparatus, accessibility, etc.) and solution options. Joint removal may be accomplished by using mechanical tools, chemical aids, thermal application or simple physical means. Health and safety issues may come into play if the frozen joint is the sole point of entry into a vessel and/or the vessel contains chemicals. Proper eye and hand protection is a must and the removal (if possible) of all chemicals is strongly advised prior to working on the frozen joint. Exercise extreme caution when attempting any of the methods described below. The freeing of stuck joints can be difficult - and hazardous!
An example of a glass joint puller. This tool has a number of adjustable arms and settings making it quite useful, though a bit awkward to use. The outer adjustable arms are set to the diameter of the outer joint. The inner "claw" is adjusted by the lower wheel (center) to grasp the inner joint. The frozen glass joint is removed by rotating the upper wheel which pulls the "claw" up - hopefully freeing the frozen joint. On occasion it may be necessary to introduce a little heat to the outer glass joint - creating some expansion - releasing the joint. Extreme caution should be exercised if the use of heat is required.

This tool is used to free frozen glass stopcock plugs. The upper horizontal arm has a slot to accept the throat of the stopcock barrel. Rotating the upper left wheel exerts pressure on the lower arm, pushing the glass plug out of the barrel.

An old stand-by - the wood stick. This method is easier if you have a helper. Hold the glass plug with a gloved hand (not pictured) or clamp. Using a wood stick or dowel and hammer, tap lightly but sharply against the outer joint. How hard to tap against the glass joint? Experience will be your guide - just start lightly. If you have access to the frozen joint from the bottom you can try tapping the wood dowel against the stopper, pushing it out. Heating the outer joint may help.

Another method used to free frozen glass joints is the application of heat to the outer joint. The outer glass joint expands - freeing itself from the inner joint. The trick is to get fairly rapid expansion of the outer glass joint without similar expansion of the inner joint. Use a torch with a moderate flame - brushing the outer joint with emphasis on visible adhesion points. Do not hold the flame directly on one spot for any length of time. This method does involve timing - too much time in the heat and you loose the expansion differential. Use insulated gloves or a hook to pull the joint free.

Using a heat gun is not usually recommended. Heat guns will typically heat the outer joint and inner joint at a slower rate, therefore allowing the inner joint to expand at almost the same rate as the outer. You lose the advantage of expansion difference.

Using a hook puller. Bend a metal rod into a tight bend (insert). Pictured is a scrap 3/16 steel rod threaded at one end that happened to be handy. The size of the rod is not important other than it needs to be adequate for the application. You have to have access to the internal joint to insert the rod - the condenser was removed for this photo. Quickly snapping the hook up against the inner joint may be enough to free it, but experience has shown the application of heat may also be necessary.

Other aids/tricks:
  • After removal of all chemicals - run the apparatus through the annealing oven. This may burn out whatever is causing the adhesion. Then try removal using any of the methods listed above.
  • Submerge apparatus in ultrasonic cleaner - length of time varies. Look for uniform wetting of the ground joint surfaces, indicating liquid penetration. Try methods listed above.
  • If the frozen parts are quite small place in a beaker containing a solvent. Place beaker with parts in ultrasonic bath containing water. ( Be sure the bath water amount is not so high that the solvent beaker "floats", possibly spilling its contents.) Using heat as an aid in joint removal is not advised when using solvents!
  • When all else fails you may have to sacrifice either the inner or outer joint. 
  • Anneal your glassware if the torch has been used on the joint.