Birch Baby

[Jacked]

The Birch is a cool fucking reaction and is quite easy to do. Swim has 5 under his belt now and am real happy with the results from each one of them... Using a 3L Elmira flask he now adds approximately 120g's pseudo that has been alcohol extracted and cleaned with xline, Naphtha and acetone boils until liquid comes off clear, usually just under a gallon of each except acetone which takes a full gallon usually.. The pseudo is clean enough for a RP/I2 reaction so it glides through a birch.. With the Pseudo in the flask and air mask in place with good rubber gloves up to the elbows he lays the tank on its side with the opening of the valve pointing up then he opens the valve slowly with his hand cupped over the mouth of the flask with the nylon hose between his thumb and forefinger just until the initial gas is released then the liquid comes without disturbing the pseudo, He lets about 600ml collect then moves to the fume hood were a S/S bowl semi filled with ice, and acetone, sits, He places the flask in this and inserts a plastic whisk attached to a drill motor held in place with something that looks very unprofessional to say the least.. He has 44g of Na in a small S/S container covered with Naphtha sitting inside the same set up the flask is in. The metal gets cold as hell and when added over a period of only 10 min while stirring does not foam up near as bad as it does at room temp... The stirring continues and after another 10 min. the reaction turns dark blue almost black, At this point the time is started and the blue is stirred for 30 min... The reaction is quenched with small amounts of H20 squirted into the flask, It doesn't take but maybe 6 or 7 ml to make the blue go to grayish white. He is thinking about using iron fillings next time to quench with instead of H20 just in case of unreacted Na that might be lurking about...Next about 500ml of toluene is added and the bubbling is started. It takes about 4 to 5 hours for all the Nh3 to leave the flask completely. A teaspoon of Sodium hydroxide is added to see if any more bubbles are produced and is done so until no more release of bubbles are seen.. Then the mix is vacuumed filtered and separated followed with a few good H20 washes followed by titration and evaporation of approximately 100g's of clean white sparkle gear that is expected from a good reaction.. Swim is damn sure hooked now... The first time he let the smelly out of the bottle it tingled the upper arms almost a burning sensation of the upper arms that was uncovered and a then a bit penetrated the mask because of the harry face not being shaved scarring the shit out of one cave man.. That is some powerfully stuff. Once the flask is in the fume hood the mask is removed but that was only the last two times. The first couple of runs you couln't pry that fucking mask off.. What a trip... I'm fucking thrilled with this and cant wait to do another one...

[Jade]

Nice write up, Jacked.  I have a couple of questions though:

Have you ever done this with Li instead of Na? 

He is thinking about using iron fillings next time to quench with instead of H20 just in case of unreacted Na that might be lurking about...

Excuse my ignorance but what do you mean by "iron fillings"?

[mnm]

Excuse me for interjecting, but iron fileings are just small pieces of iron shavings my love.

[Jacked]

Yes a long time ago Largeman came down for a visit and we ran my first birch. We used Li because it was the thing to do I guess... Li can over reduce the pseudo and there is a great concern around how much time in the blue one should have to get a completely reduced product without over reducing it resulting in an unsavable product (so I'm led to believe) When Na is used it is said to only reduce one step (not quite sure how to say what I mean) being more forgiving to an extended reaction time. (Something in that order anyway).

Iron turnings or fillings is just that, Take an old cast iron skillet and rake a file across it collecting the shavings or drill a hole through it collecting the turnings (chips). This is said to quench a reaction just as H20 would, See, H20 and Na do not get along at all resulting in a britte red and very hot fire that is cool to see in a mud puddle but not in a flask with 400 ml or so of solvent. Not to mention the gear

[xboXer]

The way you fill that flask is damn scary! Get a nipple for the tank, stainless, some poly or nylon tube to fit. get a stopper for your flask, bore 2 holes in it. now get some flexi tube, (vinyl) cut one 5" and one 10" piece of stiff tube put both in the stopper. use the flexi (vinyl) to connect from the tank nipple to the 10" pc. use hose clamps to snug securly. Using a long length of vinyl, connect to the 5" pc and the other end shove down a drain or into the toilet, past the trap. If that isn't doable, run an exit tube TWICE the ID of the tank tube, and run it up a tree, pole etc. 20-30 ft. now the AA can flow into the flask, and the fumes are vented out of the general vicinity of the reaction. Make damn sure there are NO kinks in the lines when setting up...

[Jacked]

I have a s/s ball valve that has the Nh3 tank fitting on one end screwed into the tank, a 1/4" s/s covered nylon tube runs from the tank to the flask... "Hose in between the thumb and forefinger" should have been the clue..

[xboXer]

Thumb and forefinger reads as though you are simply holding the tube in the flask w/o a seal. The part where fumes got past the seal of the mask due to beard stubble, and the mask is removed once the flask is in the fume hood. Tingley sensations? reads as though you have an OVERabundance of fumes contaminating your space outside of the fume hood. Needlessly. AA is so water hungry it will actually RIP water molecules from any part of your body it contacts, hence the tingle. When I fill a flask you don't even know it. AA don't fuck around. Just bee careful.

[Jacked]

The Smelly quickly leaves the room and sense I have shaved underneath my chin I have had no problems, The air source is self contained. Nh3 is dangerous and sense only one gram of the gas takes up the same amount of air space as 22 2L coke bottles would, it doesn't take much to get a tingle from it. I understand the hazards involved and I thank you for your concern for my safety and anyone who might read this thread as well..
The bottle Swim has leaks from the packing when its open and the seal area is old and rust pitted so getting a good seal from the fitting that was made for this bottle is damn near imposable, The fume hood is not big enough to accommodate the bottle but the vacuum in the room itself evacuates its volume about every 45 seconds. Exhaust is the most important thing besides a good powder and co2 fire extinguisher handy. Also Swim has a 6" round x 1/2" thick rubber with a handle to place over the flask in case of a fire during quenching. That about does it for the safety gear, I should have covered this in the first post, My mistake.

[beez_neez]

The birch has become Swibn's preferred method over recent times. Quick, easy and great yeilds. Swibn mixes his annie and Na in one flask, a little annie and fb in another, then slowly adds the blue to the fb/annie flask.
Upon addition, the blue will dissapear almost instantly. But when rxn is complete, blue will hold for around 40-60 seconds. This cuts time down considerably.
Then Swibn adds NP, followed by dh20. The layers can bee seperated immediatly and the water/ammonia layer discarded. Quick wash of NP with a little more dh2o, seperate, dry NP, filter gas and PRESTO!
Swibn has his time down to just over an hour.
Give it a go-go. You will bee most impressed.
This method also reduces the chance of having any unreacted Na in ur mix.
And yes, Na is the best way to go.

[dwarfer]

if I were you instead of adding squirts of water,
I'd fling in an ice cube or two.

The monia trys to keep the water from going liquid,
but the metal wins every time, and the reaction 
ceases, white returns, and vaporation time begins.

Without trying to totally replicate what I think
Marvin  said here before, but trying to save your
 precious ass for those around you who love and
admire you yadda yadda yadda..

Use a two hole collecter like a heavy duty filter flask,
or heavy duty ehrlinmyer.  Run the smelly down to
the bottom or near it with a glass tube, and
have the "suction nipple" connected up to a tube
that is held under water, or better, a weak HCl
solution.

Now when the smelly runs in, the gas gets pushed out
 and gets absorbed by the water, making amonium chloride
if you have dilute acid, which you should save because
maybe someday you will need some.

For example, IF YOU REALLY WANT TO QUENCH THE FUCK
OUT OF THE REACTION like " NOW", FLING IN THE
AMMONIUM CHLORIDE YOU MADE LAST TIME..

but really, the ice cubes work mo' bettah.'

so ANYWAYS, now youse gotz a tub full of cold 'monia,
and NO smells, and NO burns on you punkin 'lil'hands.
VIO(fuckn)LA!

Tell you MOMMA to give you KISS fo' ME!



PS PS PS PS PS :

Now once you done RUN the monia in da JUG??
disCONNECT the blow hose what leads to unner da wa wa.

Why? After WHile, it SUCK back water as de MONIA
fumes go away an da OVER capcity section heatz back up.

now DAT sux fer SHURE!

parTICUlarly if you got dissolved METAL in da MONIA!!!

trust ME on DAT one.. 

so ANYWAYZE again, if you just DON"T think you can disconnect the hose in time..
(Like 30 seconds DUH)

put in an INTERMEDIARY sealed jug soze that a SUCK
back would land DERE instead o back in da
collection vessell.

(DISCLAIMER)  Marvin told me to put this up, and
I tried to use his disgusting brogue/dialect/
pidgen english, but I could not duplicate the spray
that he always subjects me to as he talks too loudly
 thru his two missing front teeth. Which he also holds
his cigarette with.

Anyway, it's probably all lies.

[maple_honey]

Well I'm using Li here and it seems to be fine. You only need to use about a quarter as much because of it's atomic weight and it seems to be acquired without huge hassles. I guess Na can be made from lye so it might be the best way to go if no Li is available.

I noticed that when I use too much Li, reaction has a tendency to stay black for quite some time. I've added a little more FRED to get it back to the light greenish-yellow and then ultimately to the dirty white color. Now, if one simply follows the 2:1 molar ratio to a T, then isn't the risk of overreduction zero?

I add my FRED and my AA first. Then when everythings sitting around -50C, add in my Li, put on my overhead mixer, and let it go. Is small additions of Li better? It's more of a hassle. It seems to all react OK and doesn't boil over. Usually only stays black for 5 minutes or so, turns to yellow, then to white. I let the reaction go a half hour and then let the AA evaporate under some light heating.

It seems like I need a shitload of toluene to get out all the finished product. Is camping fuel a better NP for this step? THF is more difficult to get.

Also, once I have all the freebase honey in the np, I usually put under a mixer and slowly add muriatic acid until pH is 6.5-7.0. (I could dry gas but vacuum filtering is a big hassle if I'm not keeping it a powder anyways). Then I extract the salt with water and boil down the water to a cake. Trying to convert the cake into shards but I haven't got this ICE thing down yet. Take up in denatured and acetone to try the "Dual Solvent Crystallization" but it doesn't seem to work.

QUESTION: Can I skip the water all together and use denatured alcohol and the NP with freebase together in the sep. funnel? Then add enough HCL to make my pH 6.5-7.0 to migrate the salt into the alcohol? There would only be a small amount of water in there then from the muriatic acid and I could go right to the alcohol boil down for recrystallization. (Assuming it actually works). NP and ethyl alcohol would seperate as far as I know right? Ethyl is polar I believe.

By the way, before someone does the UTFSE thing again, trust me, I have.

[Jacked]

Well now, I like the double dipper flask stopper and water bucket idea..

#1 about dissolving the Na in a separate container to me seems like the electron field is already working before it even sees anything useful to reduce. That's just my picture of whats up, I could be way off here.
#2 Swim has recently come into contact with gear made this exact way by a well known bee. The taste of unreacted ephedrine is very evident and after an exchange of happy juice this bee's eyes opened and conformation on quality was given.. I would hate to re event the wheel. It will take a bit more convincing for me to change to that method but keep in mind I am a new bee at the birch but I still got a hard head.

On the question about toluene and camping fuel.. Stick with the toluene or try xline but the Colman's is like naphtha and mite need a little warming to get the goodies to migrate, toluene is the best or next best thing in my opinion. 
As far as Na and Li, Na would be the best way because of it only being able to reduce by one instead of Li that is capable of ruining a complete batch..
Na can be had with out making it. I think I would use Li over the thought of molten lye and electrodes working up little balls of the stuff.. Li would be the way to go defiantly. Swim has ran a Li/Nh3 batch with another old time bee a while back and noted the sludge blue  substance left behind by that Rxn, using the metal there is a substance left behind but its cleaner and not slimy. And to avert any clean comments after ones Rxn, the shit left behind is H20 soluble and using this with solvent to extract the goodies would leave a clean appearing extraction wast.

By the way, the duel solvent recrystallization does work and is very simple to do, I don't know why you would be able to run a successful Rxn and not know how to precipitate a crystal.

A cake? Your not boiling this meth water to get the H2O off quickly are you? A small container maybe? A cake? The only cake type formation I can think of would be in a buckner's funnel from a final cleanup with acetone of a product that was gassed instead of titrated. That can leave a filter cake. 

And last but most important about the method of your crystal cake, You never said anything about washing the non poler before titrating. I hope this is an over site because it is a very important part of the process. It should never be left out of any description of extracting if not for your health then to save from misinterpretation by new bees.

I'm not being a smart ass I promise. after reading what I've wrote it kind of comes off with a smart-ass feel. It is not meant too. I'm Jacked and am moving so fast ahead, everyone I see appears to be moving backwards...in my head anyway..

[dwarfer]

Jacked you always sound real clear and unpretentious to me.

Li an Na both do the sme thing, as far as I can tell.

Although I agree that the metal flung into the precurser/NH3 seems to have a stronger reducing effect than
pouring in a solution of the already dissolved
electrons and ammonia, filtering out the undissolved metal,
dissolving it first makes the reaction complete really
quickly (just drip in the blue/black  fluid  while mixing, and as soon as blue remains, you be done.

Also, with lithium, it seems to me that it is fairly easy to
over-reduce with the bare metal being flang in.

BUt Marvin never noticed it with Na.

For sure the "reaction cake" without the metal is less junky, but no big deal either way.

For separation, steam is the best in my opinion:
room temperature  naphtha is second. 

Xylene is next.

Then you start basing the reaction cake with
sodium carbonate and re exract with Xylene,
and finally with NaOH.

this latter will yield mostly unreacted precursor.

=====================

You are right about washing.

Nothing should be gassed or titrated unless it is absolutely clear.

No whitness whatsoever.

Filter until it is clear.

[placebo]

Jacked, in my limited experiences with the Na Birch, I have to concur with Dwarfer 100%. Pre-dissolving the Na has the benefit of reducing possibilities of hotspots. Reducing risks of explosions. (Even when you think your careful, it's easy to fuck up with Na, I know!) The electrons aren't wasted as there is nothing for them to reduce until you add it to the mix. (Save for miniscule amounts of moisture from the air.) The whole procedure seems faster, smoother, easier to read, cleaner, safer when done this way. It also gave me higher yields.

I aint saying there is anything wrong with what your doing, just saying give it a try, you won't be dissappointed.

[fanofshulgin]

A bit late in pointing this out, but 1g of NH3 will occupy 1.3L of volume, 1 MOLE would take up the 22.4L.

[Jacked]

I wasn't sure about predissolving the metal but I will try that the very next time. It makes good sense now that I know I wouldn't be wasting energy. Dwafer didn't explain that to me, bad Dwafer.. Just kidding. I will try that out and report the results back here..

A mole does it then. I must have been misinformed or just remember it differently, I remember Mr. Cleans post that it was in just lost some details. Sounded good anyway.

[dwarfer]

They get into your supplies, and next thing?

[maple_honey]

[maple_honey]

You are actually quite correct and I feel a bit redfaced. I did neglect to water wash the NP extracted freebase and there is probably some lithium salt in my finsished product. So I freebased, extracted, and washed again, titrated, water extracted, and boiled down - and you know what - SHARDS!!! I made this mistake because I am accustomed to vacuum distillation where it wouldn't be an issue. However, it is unnecessary, it seems, with this product if it is cleaned up properly. I wonder if yields would be better or worse?

Although, the shards aren't quite as nice as my buddy's HI method but this method's ingredients are easier to get and supposedly have better yields.

Now, this is my thought on over-reduction. If you pre-dissolve the Li or Na in the ammonia first, then drip in the goods, isn't there going to be an excess ammount of dissolved Li present until ALL the suzy has been added? Wouldn't that result in overreduction because of the excess Li or does it not happen that quickly?

Now, I like the idea of pre-dissolving the Li seperately first and then slowly pouring it into the FRED freebase but the problem is the rate at which the NH3 wants to boil back into a gas. Pouring this out of the air can cause a big mess to say the least. Some type of chilled pumping mechanism may work well.

Now I hear that when this Birch is done properly that you should get close to 90% w/w of finished product back which is almost 100% molar yield. Anyone had these kind of results? Buying black market FRED is very expensive these days and to turn a proper profit an excellent yield is necessary.

[beez_neez]

you pre-dissolve your li/na, then add to your suzy flask. Swibn dissolves in ice bath, then pulls flask out of bath and slowly pours the blue into the suzy flask. upon addition, he places a gloved hand or stopper over suzy flask which is snug in  his dry ice acetone/meoh bath.

[maple_honey]

So if the predissolved, solvated electrons are slowly added to the suzy/solvent mix, with strong stirring, are there any batch size limits? It would seem to me that as long as the stirring is adequate, there will always be suzy throughout the reaction until the additions are done. So, no or little over-reduction should take place. Right?

Fester sets his batch size limits at around 55 grams of freebase but his recipe calls for dripping the suzy into the predissolved Li and not the other way around. I would speculate that a fair bit of overreducing would occur during the additions with his version as the molar ratio of Li to Suzy would be much higher than 2-1 until the additions were complete. I have noticed over the years that much of what Fester publishes is complete bovine scatology.

I particularly like the chapter on "Ice" where he states that all one has to do is add dry ice to the freebase and it will crystalize as meth carbonate. Yeah Right. Maybe he should actually try it before he publishes it. I have. Doesn't work.

[Steamer]

After studying and preparing for a month Swim,(who has about 30 RP/I runs under his belt) completed first Nh3/Li today. Swim will never consider doing RP/I push/pull again ! I would like to say it's way too easy but this may encourage too many newbees to fool heartedly rush in. It has tremendous risk of injury and should only be attempted by those with some degree of chem process knowledge and comtetence. Do it sober, do it straight !
 SWIM ran it out doors in the country and was a windy day. No respirator but one wasn't needed, just stay the fuck upwind. It was about 5 degrees C  started out with ice bath (forgot to pack salt) but found that it's not really needed, it stays plnty cold itself. Threw in about 12 gr. of pseudo from equate brand, (just 3 methanol pulls no wash, to A/B) into 350 ml of agricultural anny. Tossed in Li from 1 AA and part of another ( messed up the first battery so bunch got oxidised) Probably 1 1/2 gr Li. It was a damp day too. Swim trew in gradually expecting a strong reaction but it just foams up and froths, first put pseudo in 2 gr at a time, then Li pieces in over a period of about 5 minutes.Swirled around in the one liter erlemeyer flask every 5 minutes or so till the blue went away, that took about 1/2 an hour.Swim even was walking around swirling it while playing frisbee wit the dog, it was a windy day though. Then swim took a beer case, stuck the flask in it , cut a hole in the side and ran swims truck engine exhaust in it to boil off anny. That took an hour. Took a sniff and got a good wake up ! Looked dry but still a very good ammonia stench, that was probably the worst exposure during the whole procedure.
Back home,Threw in some water, NaOH and dripped (no gas generator yet) Initial product dried out nice long needles. Forgot to do a wash on the NP for the GoddamnIneedahhootIhopeitWorked! The ammonia smell still strong in the freebase/NaOh solution and the NP had strong smell too but washes should clear this right? Returns look spectacular compared to the push/pull where'd it go routine.
63,000 liters of anny just 10 miutes from home, life is good! Has anyone tried putting vacuum on the flask when driving of the anny.Swim was waiting for it to boil away and while walking around the bush found an old freezer and was contemplating pulling the compressor out. I have a feeling that vacuum may be too violent unless one could control the pressure rather closely. Swim will build a sealed compartment at home to do this. Kinda like those sandblasting units with ventilation up the sewer vent, mount anny tank outside, run a line in. Bada-Bing,Bada-Boom.
 The Li bothered Swim more than the anny. Anny is just like walking in a chicken barn on a hot day. But once again, use your noodle if your going to do this, and have a plan in place at each stage to recover from something going sideways on you. Lots of water, gloves, long sleeves, boots. Cover your skin, protect your eyes and be aware of the pressure in your tank at the temp your working in. Swim feels the biggest hazard is getting the anny into the flask safely. Swim was using a 1/2 ball valve which was ok but a little bump and some anny went flying. Swim was ok but will be looking to install a needle valve downstream of the ball valve(using 20lb propane tank) and use the ball valve as a quick shut off.  Probably didn't say anything new here, but Swims just so damn happy he could...you know.

[maple_honey]

If your going to use a vacuum, use an aspirator! That compressor will not likely last long with all that ammonia going through it. But it's not really needed, as a little heat from an aquarium heater will have that stuff boiling like a motherf*cker.

Also, what the hell are you doing without a proper mask on? Do you have a death wish? No, be more afraid of the ammonia than the Li. You will be blind with one accidental spray in the face.

[Jacked]

you better watch out dripping acid with smelly still about. It will convert it to something? ammonium chloride or something I'm not sure but something you could do without I am sure of.. How do ya forget to wash the non-polar? That is unthinkable, forgetting that is..I always want to see just how clean the first wash is so it's like second nature, I don't haft to remember to wash because it is a part of the next step that cant be reached with a wash, that's just me. Other than that, cool man.

[Steamer]

Swim came out with just over 80% recovery. Got some of the longest needles ever seen on the drying plate. About 3 inches long and almost perfectly lined up in sets of 10-15 lines each.Very pretty. Very potent heart pounding, sketchy stuff, tingly senations all over. Possible contaminants or just very pure??. Or just time to layoff and get some sleep.
 While dripping HCL to lower Ph, using red phenol, the Ph would always bounce back up to around maybe 8-9. After putting in 50 % excess of what swim usually drips per gram of expected product, swim dried and a quantity of excess HCL showed up. Does the Nh3 odor present in the NP layer mess up the Red Phenol some how ? Swim ran a couple of H2O washes on NP but had no NaOh left for a wash.
  Aquarium heater !! Clever, simple, cheap, swim likes.. many thanks Maple! This reminds swim Zeolite is used to filter out ammoinia in aquariums.
And Yes Maple I absolutly deserve the reaming over safety.Thank you. Swim had saftey glasses and wet cloth over the mouth during setup. Swim Would have loved a respirator and looked high and low for one to borrow but could not aquire one and funds were absolutley tapped at this point, sad state of affairs-too much grit/no cash ...go figure hey. Swim very much appreciates the concern.  But yes, donations are now coming in for a full face apparatus from the Foundation for Impoverished Meth Cooks, and an enclosed ventilation hood compartment has been constructed indoors to stay away from other peeps land. Wilst swim was Birchin' amongst the birch trees (how ironic) in a secuded farming area with an erlemyer flask in hand , the farmer pulled in. As this spot seemed to be a bit of a personal garbage dump, I told him I was an eviromental consultant checking the soil for contamination as one of the neighbours had complained, and he left very politely. Probably started a rural feud. Flame me if I'm babbling.

[SmelliumII]

maple_honey: the answer is no, but if you go over 8 oz, try my NAILIT modifications.

steamer:  Nice first one, you & jacked are the luckiest motherfuckers on the planet.  I must have run it a dozen times before I had a grasp of what I was doing.  Try some of Jacked's mods, and mine for an even better time.  Oh, and that metal thing... beware!  That shit'll blow up on ya.  It's definitely in your best interest to melt it before the rxn.

Jacked: Your point is one of the most forgotten steps, and one that causes tens of thousands to ingest ammonium chloride each week.  WATER IS ONLY THE ENEMY DURING THE REACTION!  As Jacked said, make it part of your routine & you'll never overlook it.  Once I did, and had to rebase & regass the shit because it was contaminated.  If you don't rinse with water or wait 12-24 hours post reaction to gas/titrate, yours is contaminated too.

Finally, steamer, quick thinking, high marks for thinking on your feet.  That one gift may serve you better than all of the rest of your talents, of that you can take my word.  You have every right to babble, it's exciting to succeed.  Please let this be the only place where you do that, and you'd best not be bragging to all your so-called friends.  Often success has a way of making your friends so envious that they talk about you among themselves, at parties, unknowingly to narcs... I think you get the picture.  GOOD LUCK, AND GOOD WORK!

[Steamer]

Ammonium cloride msds states it melts at 384 degrees C and vaporizes up around high 600's as I recall , so if it was present it should show up in the pipe correct, swim prefers glass but worried about others that may introduce the substance via different instruments. Thanks Smellium.
Regarding the bragging Smellium your are very right, this is the only place that one should. The best advice Swim ever read on the Hive, the first time on the Hive was someones signature that said "The only way 2 people can keep a secret is if one of them are dead" At the time swim thought that was pretty harsh, now swim knows its just the truth.That always comes to mind with anything Swim does in the aquisition, procurement and employment of this hobby. swim only started to do this because his wife was finacially draining him with her habit. Swim figured 95% of the problems occuring would be eliminated by some good home cooking. But the kitchen couldn't keep up because the wife decided to add gambling to her list of addictions. As the marriage crumbled like shards she turned into swims biggest narc,talked to the cops when she got pinched, turned in evidence, yapped all over town and stole swims kilo of lab grade RP to sell. So now every spun out gringing lurping tweaker is breaking into swims house looking for the motherload. Next she called swims employer and informed him of swims new skills, told child services swims residence was a meth lab then ran away without a word for 4 months with swims child. Now how much help do you think swim got from police, neighbours and child services. Right, clever cunt. Now the bitch is crying for child support. Of course swim is getting just wonderful references from previous employer. With no more RP, job, wife, child or purpose, swim moved 500 miles away were he noticed 63,000 liter bullets of anny about every 30 miles, well whats a guy ta do? When God hands you lemons, you now what to do.
Just goes to show that you never know whose fucking who in the end. By the way, swim never even did meth until swim made it back then. Oh well,a man makes his own shoes.
Oh ya, another plus for the Birch is fewer precurors, hell they'll deliver a 2000 gallon tank right to your house if ya want with complementary doughnuts and a ball cap! So now I'm whistling the closing song  of Monty Pythons Life of Brian, "Always look on the bright side of life"

[SmelliumII]

Please don't let them deliver the NH3.  As soon as the DEA gets their copy of the bill of lading they'll bring you a new song to sing, "The Jail House Rock".  In these parts, that very thing has brought down quite a few would-be chemists.  Now the shits in such high demand & short supply that one enterprising idiot is trying to sell the shit for $1000 a gallon.  It wouldn't surprise me if some other idiot is willing to pay that price.

You have suffered much and for that I'm truly sorry.  I can certainly empathize.

[dwarfer]

It's not very poisonous, but obnoxious as hell.

It is a system acidifier
and as such lowers the bodies
response to the drug.

It's easily gotten rid of...

[placebo]

Got some of the longest needles ever seen on the drying plate. About 3 inches long and almost perfectly lined up in sets of 10-15 lines each.

Sounds more like eph/pseudo but would depend on crystalisation solvents.

Very potent heart pounding, sketchy stuff, tingly senations all over. Possible contaminants or just very pure??.

Definately sounds more like eph/pseudo, so your method sounds like more fiddling for a lot of unreduced stock.

Correct me if I'm wrong.

[dwarfer]

Now, I like the idea of pre-dissolving the Li seperately first and then slowly pouring it into the FRED freebase but the problem is the rate at which the NH3 wants to boil back into a gas. Pouring this out of the air can cause a big mess to say the least. Some type of chilled pumping mechanism may work well.

it might, but it is not necessary.  With pre-chilled
electrons added to pre-chilled prego, the gas elution
is no biggee.  just have a good fan at your back, blowing by you...

[SmelliumII]

Yes, the description of the buzz certainly sounds like unreacted E or Pseudo.  But No, the size of the crystals, IMHO, are only effected by things like % of solvents, method of reducing solvency (evap/temp change), and speed with which the reduction of solvency is achieved.  It is my opinion that SWISII has often left a birch rxn with a healthy % of Pseudo unreacted.  His attempts at rxtalization left him with the same mixture that he started with, so that the Meth & the Pseudo crystalized together.  Whether he nailed it or not in the reaction, his crystals were ALWAYS effected by the factors above, and not likely the % of Pseudo or E.