fluoro tubes are horrible things (gah) for the same price you can get a 1/2 inch outer diameter 24 inch long borosilicate glass tube or 1 inch diameter soda glass...
about us$15 will get you a glass cutter regardless, the main thing it has to do is score the glass with a continuous scratch along at leas1 1/4 of the diameter (i would say to be safe with such thin glass you want to score the glass all the way around) and then grip one side with one hand and put pressure on the point where the crack has been made. Glass usually just comes clean apart when a continuous scratch has been made through it. This is partly why old flasks become more prone to breaking too btw, little scratches create points at which the glass can easily crack.
A simpler method of making the glass shorter, and cheaper, which an older lady explained to me was put a piece of thread around the diameter of the glass at the point you want it to break, put kerosene on the thread and light it up. The heat gets high really fast and thermally stresses the glass all the way around the glass at the same time and should make an almost perfect break, it might be a little more wonky than if you used a glass tube cutter instead, but serviceable
oh and before you go breaking it trying to put a cork in the end, be VERY VERY careful, those beaded edges they put on things is not just to stop it cutting you, it increases the strength of the neck of the opening. I would think you would be well adviced to get a propane torch or gas stove element and heat the edges of the glass at both ends to fire polish it (fluoro bulb glass should be soda glass as they don't get much about about 50 degrees) if it's borosilicate it will still fire polish but not so easily. Firepolished edges will be a little stronger and less prone to breaking when you put a cork in, but the full thick bead and taper is the only way to make the neck of a piece of glass strong enough to be treated casually when putting a cork in it. so be careful if you intend to put corks into glass tubes.
You could feed steam into it by getting a much wider mouthed container (there's a brand of coffee making flasks and funnels and things and they come with a special cork designed to put a large funnel into it (a percolator funnel), and it is possible to put a roughly 1 inch diameter tube through it, although i found it was better to use a funny piece of hollow rubber i found that has a circular indent that the other rubber mates with, and it all goes into a 20mm outer diameter tube or 12.5 even (the rubber sleeve ring stopper thing is made of silicone and was made from the combo stopper/pump for a kitchen baster thing designed to be a liquid dispenser). In the side of the funnel cork it is easy to drill a small hole through which a steam hose could easily be fed into the flask. A small flask with a one hole cork is a good way to generate steam imho, simpler than messing with a jug or buying a pressure cooker (unless you have some other use for it)
vinyl hosing is great for most things except it softens quite rapidy in contact with boiling aromatic solvents.
hehe, in fact, if you are only doing the old ephedrine reduction thing, forget about using the condenser, just use a long length of vinyl hosing, if it's about 800mm long it should be tall enough to act as an adequate air condenser. The vinyl might stain a yellow colour but hey, who cares, it's like $5 a metre. Seeing the head of steam climbing up inside a vinyl tubing was very exiting for me, watchign the little arrays of droplets forming at the point of condensation...
If you have a good look, maybe on ebay, or perhaps some other places, you should be able to find a much cheaper non-ground glass jointed condenser (i've seen 200mm liebigs in glass without ST ground glass joints for like us$22)
