Thank you Suss, I'm glad I was able to help.
As far as H3PO3 ingredients I can tell you what SWID uses;
E/I2/H3 : 1/1.25/1 with 1mil of DH2O for every gram of H3. Make sure your I2 is completely dry, if not scale back on the DH2O you add to the reaction.
All the apparatus that SWID uses is completely ghetto. He has a small 500mil milk bottle that he purchased at W**-M*** which he uses for his reactions. The top of the bottle is just large enough so he can get a 1 ½” Braided Hose slipped over the end of it. His hose is 18” long and in the end of that he has a PVC reducer so he can reduce the hose size down to ¼”, attach a 18" long 1/4" hose to this and attach a balloon to the free end of this hose. Everything is held in place by Hose Clamps.
SWID changes his hoses and reducer for every reaction. Your only talking $3.00 worth of material. It would a shame to ruin a reaction that took weeks to prepare for all because of dirty hoses contaminating the fluids. The length of the 1 ½” hose coupled with the reduction to a ¼” hose helps keep the HI fluids contained in the reaction vessel and larger hose. No condensation migrates into the ¼” hose, it is all contained in the 1 ½” hose and bottle.
In order to heat his reaction he uses a 2-quart pot with approx 3” of sand in it. To this he adds vegetable oil so he has about ¾” of oil covering the sand. All this is placed on the kitchen stove to heat. SWID buries the flask in the sand so that the top of the fluid level in the bottle is the same level as the oil, reason being that when you do this there is approximately 40-45C difference in the temperature of the oil and the temperature of the bottle. If you burry the bottle too deep in the sand the temperature in the bottle will climb, deeper you bury the bottle, the higher the temp goes. SWID learned this, and many other things, from Geez.
The oil bath is slightly warm to cold when he places the bottle with the E back into it. You need to be careful here, if the oil is too hot you will shock your reaction and your quality and yield will suffer dearly. Anyway, SWID takes the next hour to gradually raise the temp of the oil to 165C, this should give him a fluid temp of 120C. He leaves the temp at this setting for the duration of the rxn. He swirls the bottle gently every hour for the first 4-5 hours to make sure he has washed all the E off the interior wall of the bottle, after that he might swirl the bottle every few hours.
His post reaction work up is similar to the one Geez has outlined in his the post-reaction workup thread although he does make a few minor changes to his work-up process. After the honey is made he dilutes it with 5 times its volume in warm DH20, then he makes sure its good and clean with several Toluene washes. If SWID is working with more than 250 ml of honey before he dilutes it he will break the fluid into smaller portions, treat these as separate projects and work each of these up individually . It's much easier to work with smaller portions AND if you have a screw-up and spill some of the honey or the cat knocks it over or you are unfortunate enough to have OG II contaminating your end product the smaller portions will act as an insurance policy to prevent total loss of all your hard work. Personally SWID thinks Toluene is the best NP to use for the A/B process. When you wash your honey with Toluene any peg that might be present will be drawn to the Toluene during the wash, leaving your E a little bit cleaner.
Now, here’s where SWID starts to deviate from Geezes Post Work-Up, after he is done with the NP washes he FILTER’s the honey as he separates it from the Toluene, this was a step missing in Geezes right up, I’m sure it was just a slip of the pen though. Now SWID has learned something very interesting when using Toluene as his NP, since SWID doesn’t have a separator funnel to use when separating the honey from the NP he will siphon off as much as he can without drawing off any of the NP and run this honey through a filter. Now, there’s always a small amount of Honey left on top of the NP so what SWID does to collect this is pour the top of this fluid off into THE WET FILTER that he was using for the honey. The moisture in the filter will allow the remaining honey to filter through but will trap the Toluene in the filter NOT LETTING THAT THROUGH. Caution here, you don’t want to get carried away and fill the filter up with NP when pouring off the top layer of honey, you just want to pour enough to collect all the remaining honey setting on top of the NP. Also, SWID has found that filtering at this stage not only traps the NP but it also traps any oils that might be deposited in the honey during the wash process, leaving them behind in the filter, and leaving SWID with a crystal clear, slightly gold honey…PERFECT!
SWID filters at every stage of the work-up when transferring the honey from one medium to another, it just makes sense to do this and insure that your product is a clean as you can get it.
The rest of the work-up is similar to Geezes write-up. SWID has found that Toluene is excellent for using to pull on the base fluid and will pull the majority of the freebase from the base fluid on the first pull, with the next 2 pulls resulting in lower amounts. SWID doesn’t stop there, he hates to allow even the smallest amount of freebase to escape him so after his first initial pulls he will do a 4th pull on the base. This pull he will allow to set for several hours. Also, to this pull, SWID will add a couple of small spoons of regular table salt to the Base fluid which helps the freebase on its way to the NP and then shake everything like his life depends on it…THIS IS THE ONLY TIME SWID will shake the fluids together, since he’s going to allow this to set for several hours he knows the emulsion will have time to clear.
SWID has also found that it is helpful to apply heat to the Base/NP solution for this pull. SWID will place the jar with the Base/NP into a small pot that is filled with water. Inside the bottom of the pot SWID will drop a hand full of toothpicks so when he sets the bottle in the pot it isn't in contact with any hot metal, don't want it to crack or burst. SWID will raise the temp of the water in the pan, there by raising the temp of the Base fluid and Toluene. This seems to hasten the migration of the freebase to the NP, perhaps because when you heat these fluids their moluces move further apart and allow a less restictive path for the freebase to travel, SWID dosen't really know, he only knows it works. SWID will apply heat this way for about 30 minutes. BE VERY CAREFUL WITH THIS HEATING OF THE BASE FLUID, you do not want to get it so hot that the NP will start to boil. Toluene has a much lower boiling point than the base fluid and if it starts to get very hot it will turn to a vapor, This will in turn increase the pressure inside vessel containing the base/NP solution. Too much heat will result in too much pressure, which could result in having your base/NP vessel bust and send little shards of glass and solution flying everywhere. BE CAREFUL NOT to let the NP stay in contact with the base fluid much longer than 24 to 34 hours. SWID has found that after this length of time the meth can migrating back into the Base fluid, it may not, but then again it may, bummer!
Now when SWID siphons off the 4th pull of NP from the base fluid he will add just a little DH2O without any acid to the NP and do a PH test on this, if the PH is high SWID will continue with the Acid pull on this fluid, if the ph is low SWID doesn’t waste his time. Also, if the ph is high SWID will do another pull on the base, matter of fact SWID will pull on the base fluid until he gets a low PH reading from the NP/DH2O mixture. As long as your ph is high in the NP that’s removed from the base the pull is working. . Once SWID gets a ph reading back from the NP of 7 or less he will discontinue the pulls on the base. Waste not, what not!
After SWID finishes his 3 acid extractions of the freebase form the NP he will save all of the NP and combine this in a big jar until all the meth has been extracted, then SWID will do another extraction of the NP. He will add DH2O to the NP with NO ACID and check the ph level, if it is above 8 SWID will add acid drop wise to this until he gets his ph down to 7-6.5, but if its down to 7 or less SWID realizes he is finished and doesn’t waste anymore time on it.
One thing SWID has noticed, when you are doing an acid extraction if you screw up or get careless or if you don’t have any way to test the ph lever FOR THIS PHASE of the work-up and you happen to get the ph level below 6 not only will your yields suffer but your quality will suffer also. Now, SWID knows you can wash the meth with acetone to remove any excess acid but SWID has found that this is only a half cure. The product you are left with after driving the ph too low is substandard to the product you obtain when you extract at a ph level of 7-6.5. Even after several Acetone washes, dissolving the E you retrieve form the acetone in Denatured alcohol, filtering the alcohol to remove any HCl salts that might be lurking in the back ground and then evaporating to retrieve the meth, its just not as good of a product. To SWID this simple ph test is one of the most crucial things he does in the post A/B work-up. This small detail, or lack of, can have a terrible effect on your product. SWID never tests the ph level of the base fluid but he always tests the ph level of the acid extraction.
Oh yes, denatured alcohol will leave a residue on the meth so make sure you do an Acetone wash every time your meth comes in contact with denatured alcohol as a final cleaning process! Not only can you smell the sickening, sweet smell of the DA in the meth, but you can also taste it. Now, if you’re one of the individuals that prefer to take his meth via IV, as soon as you inject the meth you will immediately get that same sickening, sweet taste of the DA throughout your body, you will also get a giant rush as the DA works through your system. It only takes a few seconds for this process to work through your system but the sweet smell and taste will linger long after. SWID doesn’t think this can be very good for your healthy, so make sure that you wash your finished product with Acetone before you use it or distribute it to the public.
H3PO3 is clean, safe and fast as compared to the typical RP/I2 rxn, its also not listed as a Class I or II substance,,,,,YET, but SWID would not be surprised if that changes this year as our friendly, help full Government continues to attempt to control something that they can’t control! Regardless of the new laws they make, regardless of the chemicals they try to control, regardless of the punitive penalties they access to try and discourage the use, distribution or production of these products, there are those among us who will endeavor and continue to make advancements in the fine art of the cook….and I am firmly convinced that the conversion of E/P to a clean, high octane product is indeed an art and SWID takes his hat off to those among us who have pioneered this field.
