Author Topic: NH3 precooler and drying tube a necessity?  (Read 2522 times)

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18294

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NH3 precooler and drying tube a necessity?
« on: April 22, 2004, 04:40:00 PM »
SWIM knows first hand that mister-clean's method on rhodium works, and it works well. SWIM has heard that the precooler and the drying tube are not a neccesity, though. Can any bees verify this? SWIM is not so much worried about the tiny cost of the materials- he could care less. SWIM just knows that the less time spent at his lab, the better. Please don't tell me to use the search engine. It still doesn't work.

below, SWIM is reposting something that was posted both on wetdreams and totse:

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Overview:
Anhydrous ammonia can be produced and condensed somewhat safely with: fertilizer, lye, vinyl tubing, and dry ice. It works, listen. The idea of the pre-cooler and drier only confused SwiKB. His system uses an excess of hose between the generator and condenser to cool the gas and condense most H2O before the dry ice condenser. The H2O stays in the tubing and the majority is drained when generator is changed. Some argue that this WILL NOT WORK! But, it does. The pre-cooler and drier may be a good idea BUT unnecessary for excellent results.
The perfected SWIKB system uses 2 liter soda bottles for generators. He has tried EVERY container he could imagine. A simple 2 liter beat everything. SwiKB had many disasters with other generators, some bust, most leak. No matter how well you think it is sealed, it still leaks. Use a 2 liter and save yourself the frustration. Drill a hole in the lid of a 2 liter and insert the vinyl tubing. It should be a TIGHT fit without the hose being crimped. You have to cut the hose at an angle and pull it through with pliers. When a generator has stopped, unscrew it and replace with a new one.
Use 3/8 x 1/4 inch clear vinyl hose. This is by far the best for many reasons. SwiKB has experimented with different diameters but 3/8x1/4 is optimal. The Perfected system uses a total of 50 ft. of 3/8x1/4. One hose coming from the generator is split into 2 hoses. The 2 hoses are kept together and eventually coiled in the dry ice where the NH3 is condensed. 2 hoses come out of the condenser and come back together into 1 hose entering the catch bottle. The split hose design has proved superior to all previous designs. The 2 hoses cool the gas more efficiently holding moisture in the tubing and condensing 2x as much ammonia as the previous single hose designs. This system can produce 6 ounces of anhydrous ammonia per 2liter generator. Expect 3-4 ounces until your as good as SwiKB. Use 1/4 inch pvc 'T' barbs.
For the condenser, SwiKB uses an ice-chest with a hole in the top and a hole in the bottom edge. Vinyl tubing to coiled around a plastic container about the diameter of a 3 liter bottle. Coils are placed inside ice chest with hoses coming out the lid and the bottom. Chest and inner container are filled with dry ice. More details below.
Your going to need to catch the liquid and keep it cooled. SwiKB uses an ice chest the size of a 6-pack cooler or lunch box. Catch bottle is in this ice-chest and packed in dry ice. A towel is stuffed on top of the ice and around the lid of bottle to keep the ice from melting. The catch bottle must be clear or clear enough to see the contents. The catch has measurements on side and a sealing lid. SwiKB found his at the WallyWorld. It is a sorta-clear square plastic storage container with a white lid that screws on and mililiters one side, ounces on the other. The lid has a pop-top cap with 1 inch hole. They cost about a dollar and have been seen at other large stores similar to Wallys. These bottles are perfect but, it needs a new lid. In the same section as the square container, there will be a round clear juice container with a gray sippie-cup type lid. This lid has a rubber seal in it and a white straw that flips up to drink from and folds back down to seal. This lid is perfect. Buy both containers or swap the gray lid to the square container and only pay a dollar. Other catch bottles have been used, but you will see why this is preferred. If you remove the flip-up straw from the gray lid, you will see 2 holes. A big hole that can be slightly bored out to fit 3/8x1/4 inch tubing, and a small hole intended for air intake. The small hole fits aquarium tubing perfectly. Both still have a rubber seal.
After trying to regulate the pressure of the system SwiKB decided a relief line is the best way to go. The system does not suck-back with a relief line. Aquarium tubing is ran from the lid of the catch bottle to somewhere you dont have to smell it. Regulating the pressure with relief valves only frustrated and burnt SwiKB. If relief line is going out a window, you shouldnt smell anything during production.

Obtaining the goods:
The preferred fertilizer is 'Ammonium Nitrate' . It contains '17% ammoniacal nitrogen.' Other fertilizers can be used but they must contain an ammonia base. SwiKB has experience with only ammonium nitrate and cannot speak for any other. It can be purchased at feed & fertilizer stores all over. When purchasing, ask for ammonium nitrate. They may look it up and decide ammonia nitrate is 34-0-0, and give you a sack of 'All Purpose' fertilizer 34-0-0. This doesnt contain ammoniacal nitrogen. Because the specs say 34-0-0, doesnt mean its ammonium nitrate. 50 pound sack cost around $9.
Red Devil Lye can be purchase at grocery stores and a few hardware stores. Get all you can but remember some places are told to watch for large RD purchases.
Dry Ice is at any icehouse. Swikb's system needs 30 pounds. Buy 50 pounds until you know how much your system will require.
Vinyl hose: 3/8 x 1/4 inch is THE best. Get 50 feet. SwiKB gets it in 2- 20 foot sections and 1- 10 foot section.
Aquairium tubing XX feet.
2: 1/4 inch pcv 'T' barbs
Big Ice Chest and 6-pack cooler
Catch Bottle
2 liter coke bottles: save up all of them, start drinking more.
1: 3 liter or plastic container with similiar diameter.
Duct tape
Flash Light
Funnel

Construction:
We dont have glass condensers. No stainless steel. Tell SwiKB all about heat transfer blah blah blah. He doesn't care. His way works just as well, its cheap, and best of all, its disposable. Listen.
If your vinyl tubing came in 2- 20ft sections and a 10ft section, stretch out the 2- 20ft sections and hold together. If not, cut 5 ft. off your 50ft section and set it aside. Stretch out 45ft section and fold in half. Cut in the middle to get two equal lenghts. Hold these two lenghts together.
Take a tall round plastic container similar to a 3liter bottle(3L will work). With the 2 hoses held together, start 1 foot up the hose. Start at the bottom of container and coil up the outside. Each coil is tight against the other with no gaps in between. SwiKB makes one coil then tapes with duct tape so that the end is held in place. Continue to coil up the bottle ensuring each coil is tight and snug against the other. Make 12 coils with the double hose. Tape these in place with duct tape. This is the most important part of the system and must be done correctly. The tubing will make a slight spiral around the container. When making the coils, dont try to angle them, go straight across and coils will have the slight downward spiral needed. Keep the coils together and make sure there are no gaps. A gap will cause it to clog and you better hope you can hold your breath. 12 double hose coils should be enough, 14 won't hurt. This is to ensure the condenser has the surface area to effectively cool and condense the gas. If 3L was used, cut the top off a few inches above the coils.
So, you have a container with 1 ft of hose at the bottom, 12-14 coils taped snuggly, and a bunch of hose left at the top. Perfect. Set this inside your large ice chest. Dont add ice yet. The 1 foot excess goes out the bottom of the chest, the long section goes through the lid out the top. The bottom 2 hoses come together with a 'T'. This should be just long enough so that the hose doesnt crimp when placed on 'T'. (About 6 inches between the 'T' and ice chest.) The 'T' then goes to a 3-4 inch section that enters the catch bottle. Between the ice chest and catch bottle you will be able to see the ammonia as it gushes, pours, and drips into your catch. A small flash light is placed behind the hose to see the flow. The hose will ice up in this section, so wipe with your fingers as necessary to see the liquid.
Getting ahead of ourself.
The long length of double hose from the top of the ice chest is taped together every few feet to keep them together. At the end, the other 'T' is placed. 3 ft of the hose is connected to the 'T'. This 3 ft section has been inserted into a 2L bottle cap. It should make a TIGHT fit without crimping the hose. The hose is pulled though about 1 inch.
The 6 pack cooler with catch bottle is placed on the counter-top, the larger ice chest with the coils is sat just above the catch bottle. The hose should slope down (but not straight down) in between the condenser and the catch bottle. Relief line from the catch bottle goes outside.
The generator is usually place on the counter-top with the hose going up 3 ft to the 'T', then double hose goes down near the ground, back up near the ceiling, then down into the ice chest condenser. This shape holds most of the moisture keeping it from the condenser. The moisture is drained back into the generator or drained out when the generator is changed. You may sit the generator on the ground, go up to counter-top, go back down to floor, go up near the ceiling, then down into the condenser. Loop the hose in a few places. Either way.
Make since?
Generating:
Ok, Ok... Everything is put together, your ready for action.
Fill the 2 ice chest with dry ice. Ensure it is around the inside and outside of coils and packed around the catch. Lay a towel on top of the ice before the lid is shut. The towel keeps the ice from melting as fast.
Wash out one of those 2L with hot water. Sling out most the water but leave it damp.
Using a RD Lye can for measurements. Add 3 cans of fertilizer to the 2L using a funnel. Then, add 1 can of RD lye and quickly screw on the cap attached to the hose. This ratio is perfect. Many months of wasted time before this was discovered. 3cans:1can. If the bottle was left damp, you shouldn't need to add any water. If you decide to, dont add more than a capful.
You will begin to see why a 2 liter is preferred. When top is screwed on, hold the bottom of the 2L and place other hand around the neck and give the bottle a few good twists to kick off the reaction. The generator will start hissing and may bubble. Give it a few more twists to ensure the first few inches of chemicals mix well. You will fill the generator build pressure and heat up. If its reacting and building pressure let it do its thing. After a few minutes (5) when the pressure has built up, pick up the generator and give it a few twists. 3 twists should be good. Watch as ammonia gushes out the condenser into the catch. Nothing? Twist a few more times and let build pressure. Wait 5-10 minutes then twist and shake the generator. It should be pouring out when you twist it and still dripping when you stop. When the bottle is twisted, the chemicals seem to settle so you must rub the bottle in between your hands to loosen the contents after each time you twist.
You could sit there and keep working the bottle forcing it to react fast but you do not want this. Continue to shake it, let it build pressure for 10 minutes or so, then twist it again. This keeps the gas from going through too fast and not cooling and condensing. After 45 minutes the generator bottle will be about half full and seem to have a lot of liquid which maybe bubbling. At this point, squeeze and shake and see if juice still comes out condenser. Squeeze in part of generator and sit to see if it pops back out within a few minutes. If it does, leave it 15 more minutes. Shake the hell out of it. If a generator has a lot of liquid and begins to boil, take it off. Its done. Generators are usually removed before this happens. Then change the generator with a fresh one. If water has collected in tubing, drain it out while the generator is off. A used 2L bottle will be warped and shrunk in from the heat of the reaction. Once removed, fill with water and loosely cap. When flooded, the bottle shouldnt produce anymore gas. When you get a chance, pour this out and rinse bottle with water.
SwiKB's rule of thumb is 1 generator per 10g pseudo. After 2nd bottle check the catch to see how much money you've made. You should have 8-12 ounces. If not, don't be discouraged. Keep going until you know you have plenty. Also check to make sure there is plenty of dry ice in the condenser and on the catch bottle.
Notes:
Use this 'homemade' ammonia like any other. Its cleaner and just as strong. Absolutely no sacrifice in quality. Ratio of 1 AA strip to 7grams pseudo hcl. Some cooks say 1 per 10 with refrigerant grade. SwiKB doesn't care. He doesn't steal and he never runs out. Don't trust the blackmarket. No one has to know what you do. Keep it that way. No one gives a shit. We don't think your cool when you brag. Shutup or get popped. This is no joke. Friends are people you think are your friends who are really your enemies in

TURNTABLIST

  • Guest
Precooler is a must.
« Reply #1 on: April 22, 2004, 06:52:00 PM »
Pre-Cooler is a must. Also run the hose uphill to the precooler. Hose alone wont work very well and will carry moisture along. The gas needs to expand to cool and if You use a 1.5 ammonia salt to 1.0 caustic soda you might get away with no drying tube but SwiTT doubts it.

 Take your time and do it right, it will pay off in the end.

TT

RepVip

  • Guest
Definately
« Reply #2 on: April 23, 2004, 06:46:00 AM »
Anyone that has ever tried to condense their own NH3 will insist that the pre-cooler is a must, unless they have some state of the art condensor system, or lots of cash for the pounds and pounds of dry ice needed without the pre-cooler.

Without the pre-cooler or drying tube, if you are using just dry ice, you will no doubt clog your line with the excess water carried in the ammonia fumes as it freezes due to the extreme cold. For this reason you want both the drying tube and the pre-cooler.

Why? Because the pre-cooler will cool the warm/hot gasses considerably, and thus condense most of the water moisture. Then, run this up-hill and through a drying tube to catch the remaining.

Why not use the drying tube first? Or just a drying tube and no pre-cooler? Obviously there is a lot of moisture, and your drying tube would become fucked pretty quick.

Post 485647

(TrickEMethod: "30min/$40 - NH3 generator!", Chemicals & Equipment)
is worth checking out--it's pretty fucking ingenious if you ask me. It's definately worth taking a look at.

RV