Diesel : to douche your diabolical deliberations

[dwarfer]

Kerosene Is far cheaper than naphtha,
and contains mixed aliphatic hydrocarbons,
but is defined:
_{colorless, thin mineral oil
whose density is between 0.75 and 0.85 grams
per cubic centimeter. A mixture of hydrocarbons,
it is commonly obtained in the fractional distillation
of petroleum as the portion boiling off
between 150 and 275 (302-527).}



This has been investigated by my ass-wipe buddy,
Marvin-the
(un)-magnificent, at some time in the past
with
fair   results.  Nothing to brag about,
cheaper than naphtha, but not as good.

I asked him why he had not tried diesel,
(since he refused
to try gasoline in the surmision
that I was trying
to get him to blow himself up{damn: foiled again..!]

so he did, with very good extraction results.

Did I mention you can get 6X as much diesel
as naphtha for the
same money about?

Look for the green nozzle..


 I told him that different parts of the country
may have different additives,
and that test samples should be run
to assure things
before getting serious.
(serious is 12 grams around that piker's dungeon..)

see

http://www.chevron.com/prodserv/fuels/bulletin/diesel/L2_7_

You can use the microwave to heat the GUP's
in the liquid,
but careful you don't burn the GUp's
 underneath the transparent liquid...

I prefer to heat to 105C over good stirring,
and filter hot.

Pour the filtrate into shallow pans
to see the crap that condenses on the bottom.
(You will have to let it sit for a day...)
It takes aout 4 or 5 heat/stir trips for the diesel 
to appear clear:
pour in an oz of water in the filtrate
and see if IT looks clear..

sounds like a PITA,
but if you have the patience for this many washes,
and a rinse with hot Xylene,
your dry ISO alkie extract will be gratifying.

 The above results arise from diesel. 
Marvey did it twice. 
Once he  added dried epsoms, shook,
let settle, and filtered.  Once, he didn't.

made no difference.

I can't see why there would be one,
since the temp was raised above 100C.
(thereby driving off any free water anyway...)

Here's some interesting factoids for your review:


Stabilizers 
 Acid-base reactions are another mode of fuel instability. The stabilizers used to prevent these reactions
typically are strongly basic amines
and are used in the concentration range
of 50 ppm to 150 ppm.
They react with weakly acidic compounds
to form products that remain dissolved in the fuel,
but do not react further.

These could be available in  some areas in greater or lesser quantities, to unknown effect.

"Unknown" because they COULD be a significant advantage in
dealing with the same stuff that "Japan Driers" (with their cobalt atoms...) effectively remove. Or not.

Speaking of which,

check out the "metal deactivators"




"Metal Deactivators  
When trace amounts of certain metals,
especially copper and iron,
are dissolved in diesel fuel,
they catalyze (accelerate)
the reactions involved in fuel instability.
Metal deactivators tie up (chelate)
these metals, neutralizing their catalytic effect.
They typically are used in the concentration range
of 1 ppm to 15 ppm."

IF these activators chelate the poly-ampholytes,
or one of the orange ish gaaks, making them insoluable
to the dry iso pull, that would explain why the
results are crystallishuous.

[wareami]

High Ho
High Ho
It's off to we GO!

Peace of the reaction

Have FUN-Bee SAFE

[mickyfinn]

Waremi-

I can't remember the last time I burst out laughing so loudly...scrolling down from Dwarfers thread it hit me full on....oh dude...that is epic...still GMAO (giggling my ass off) thinking about it.
thank you...sniff sniff <----wipes tear from corner of eye

Dwarfer-

That post on the couch was so sad I almost cried...well done!

So what was the volume of GUPS to diesel that marvin found so crystalishously successful?

Ware - still GMAO...

[halfkast]

Always liked it, haven't had a chance to mention it.

Dwarfer is this a recent thing? deciding to through the kitchen sink at it?

That's the only universal cure, don't you agree?
It's easy.

You throw as many Np's you can at it and extract. weak.
Tell me that doesn't work.

There's no fear of them taking it off the market, if you thought that...

Instead of making the hobby waiting for the procedure to come along, make the hobby collecting every NP ya see.
Some crappy, like turps, shellite, naptha, deisel, petrol. + too many to remember.

Some good like acetone, MEK, ethyl acetate, xylene, toluene, THF (not worth it, not needed).

Some first hitters to remove some dangerous polymers like DCM, PCE(TCE - tetra..).

What?
First hitter(1), misc. NP(2), alcohol extraction (3).

Make (1) quality, Make (2) comprehensive, make (3) careful


A 50:50 mix of acetone and DCM is supposed to be effective. They both remove much the same things but they don't entirely overlap, the DCM removes some polymers.

GENERAL tip for yields: if your decanting and you see bits of crap that your unsure if it's dissolved (real gak) or not (maybee sudo) always leave it, if it's gak it'll always bee there for the next gak extraction (wash).

I smell fear, I swear to God. Like pussies! you know?!  
I could bee wrong.

[dwarfer]

it's new to Marvin.

I suggested it only because of the fond recollection
of old-time coca leaf extract that used to stink of it,
and the $12 gallon for naphtha that the hardware store charges.

Marvey does not have a yield, because he decided to
do
a modified straight to bee modification
 with a new
steam extractor garphisimo thngamabob
that he has not rleased on the world yet,
and it was mixed in with some
ancient ephedra extracts as well. (Salted..)

Typical unorganized assoule. (
He whines convincingly that the hot diesel
does remove
a lot of stuff that hot naphtha does not,
but does not
have production results as of yet.

probably Ware(tf)Ami will find how to use it,
and make gold....

halfcast has a good point.  Every np in the book..

I think it's the additives that help in this case:
kerosene does NOT do AS good a job.

so?
whats the dif?

the additives..