Author Topic: Cleaning  (Read 2356 times)

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  • Guest
« on: June 30, 2004, 05:12:00 AM »
swim wanted to see what his tetra washes and xylene soaks was cleaning out of his pill mass.
So after a tetra wash and a 12 hour xylene soak he lets them evap and there is absoulty nothing left.
Does this mean his tetra and xylene are cleaning nothing and are a waste of time?


  • Guest
Seems like it.
« Reply #1 on: July 02, 2004, 10:55:00 AM »
Seems like it.


  • Guest
Gum Turps
« Reply #2 on: July 03, 2004, 02:59:00 AM »
Have you tried soaking your pill mass for 24 hours in Gum Turps and then evaporating this solvent?

Swim has suspected that using tetra first as a solvent wash wasn't doing anything, based upon how slowly the solvent will drain through a coffee filter afterwards.

Soak in Gum Turps for 24 hrs, filter and then do your tetra wash and filter. Filters MUCH quicker now, doesn't it?  ;)

Actually, toluene/xylene will work to remove povidone and PEG but you might want to try a much longer soak then 12 hrs. Gum Turps will leave the room smelling like pine-sol but it works great! Better to have your restroom smelling like pine-sol then gasoline...right?


  • Guest
Re: Swim has suspected that using tetra first...
« Reply #3 on: July 03, 2004, 10:20:00 AM »

Swim has suspected that using tetra first as a solvent wash wasn't doing anything, based upon how slowly the solvent will drain through a coffee filter afterwards.

Swim has noted the same thing.  The thing is can't remember how quickly the tetra drained when it was all it took for some pills.

Once the 120s started taking a bad turn they became harder and harder to filter without proper cleaning.

Swim has evaporated mineral spirits soaks along with both xylene and toulene soaks which were 24 to 36 hr. soaks and they always revealed some nasties.  So he figured they were getting some of the gakks.

A query slightly off topic, will tetra alone kill povidone?


  • Guest
With the Advent of the methylacrylates...
« Reply #4 on: July 03, 2004, 06:25:00 PM »
a whole lotta encapsulaion is taking place. It's not only the inactives inclusion themselves but thwe processes by which they are being included that will hinder getting to the cores and hacking away at them with solvents and chems! Tetra alone is a weak attacker nowadaze because of the tetra resisant coatings it seems. Once those coatings are penetrated, then the tetra can do it's work at carrying away some of the poly's. Orange Gaak was the first example of how easy it was for them to sidestep Tetra's ability to remove polymers. We've since seen some high tech engineering in addition to some highly complex inactives that will reek havoc on most extraction attempts. Tetra alone won't be as effective as it once was. This is why the Japan Drier was introduced to battle the orange gaaks. It broke through to the core allowing the release of pfed. Now they have another tougher layer that must be eroded away. But it's more complicated now because in order to effectively reach the raw pseudo, several encapsulating inactives are activated qand released into solution, depending on the solvents used. These inactives thrive in basic environments and alcohols. Some success has been had lately using excess h2o. But it's important to deactivate any drymatrix swellers first. Much more research has been put under the knife and we think the Kidz are slowly approaching a universal remedy once again. It's the only way Ibee would even consider releasing a GaakSmashing Beast on the board because of the newest legislation concerning "Easy and Hard" extractable pills and their subsequent classification as either BTC w/ID or OTC pills. If a one stop shocker method can handle all the pills across the board, I'd like to see the pricks yank `em all off the shelves. Mind you....this latter scenrio is coming down the pike, and soon! We're just trying to prolong the inevitable by keeping what's available within reach for as long as time permits before the propagandawhores lay the hammer down for good. Be studying UP on the alternate routes of E aquisition cause it's not a matter of "IF" pills are obsolete, it's a matter of "WHEN". In the meantime....The Kidz plan on GOing down with the Ship as any good GAAKPIRATE would do....

If you'll excuse us....we're too busy cracking UP at the latest (de-dwarfer) mark-up tag.
Now that is hilarious!!!
Arrrrrrr Fuckin.....The treasures we find buried here at the Hive :P  ;)


  • Guest
Ditzzzzz here
« Reply #5 on: July 03, 2004, 08:13:00 PM »


  • Guest
swims never tried gum turps before so hes...
« Reply #6 on: July 04, 2004, 04:11:00 AM »
swims never tried gum turps before so hes gonna give it a shot.
Do gum turps need to be dried? if they do would dried epsom salts do it?


  • Guest
Gum Turps...
« Reply #7 on: July 04, 2004, 04:24:00 AM »
* Synonyms

Gum spirits, turps, gum thus, D.D. turpentine, wood turpentine, oil of turpentine, rectified turpentine oil, spirits of turpentine, sulfate wood turpentine, sulfate turpentine, gum turpentine, steam-distilled turpentine.

* Identifiers

1. CAS 8006-64-2.

2. RTECS YO8400000.

3. DOT UN: 1299 27.

4. DOT label: None if gum spirits; Flammable Liquid if wood spirits.

* Appearance and odor

Turpentine is a volatile mixture of hydrocarbon isomers obtained either from pine gum or pine wood. Gum turpentine is a yellowish, sticky, opaque, combustible material; the wood distillate (oil of turpentine) is a flammable, colorless liquid with a characteristic odor.


* Physical data (properties vary with the specific product)

1. Molecular weight: Approximately 136.

2. Boiling point (760 torr): 150 to 180 degrees C (302 to 356 degrees F).

3. Specific gravity (water = 1): 0.86 to 0.90 at 15 degrees C (59 degrees F).

4. Vapor density (air = 1 at boiling point of turpentine): 4.6 to 4.8.

5. Melting point: -50 to -60 degrees C (-58 to -76 degrees F).

6. Vapor pressure at 20 degrees C (68 degrees F): 5 torr.

7. Solubility: Insoluble in water; soluble in alcohol, ether, chloroform, and glacial acetic acid.

8. Evaporation rate (butyl acetate = 1): Below 1.0.

* Reactivity

1. Conditions contributing to instability: Heat, exposure to air in a confined space, and sources of ignition.

2. Incompatibilities: Contact of turpentine with oxidation catalysts or with strong oxidizing agents (especially chlorine) may cause fires and explosions.

3. Hazardous decomposition products: Toxic gases and vapors (such as carbon monoxide and the partial oxidation products of terpenes) may be released in a fire involving turpentine.

4. Special precautions: Turpentine attacks some coatings and some forms of plastic and rubber.


  • Guest
swim has pinned down some gum turps, its the...
« Reply #8 on: July 04, 2004, 08:53:00 AM »
swim has pinned down some gum turps, its the colourless kind (oil if turpitine maybe?). I hope this is the right one.
Scottydog, after a soak in this turp ill do an xylene soak, how long do you suggest to soak for if 12 hours is not sufficient enough.


  • Guest
Thins "Oil"
« Reply #9 on: July 04, 2004, 09:34:00 AM »
"after a soak in this turp ill do an xylene soak, how long do you suggest to soak for if 12 hours is not sufficient enough"

Gum Spirits of Turpentine is preferred by artists for thinning "oils" and with all of the oils that Swim has to deal with lately, boy does it do some thinning.  ;D

Using Xylene or Toulene, Swim would recommend at least 24 hrs. If it is winter time or the solvent is cold, a few days. Warm solvent works best!


  • Guest
Pine Sol x 1000
« Reply #10 on: July 04, 2004, 03:49:00 PM »
Genuine Turps sure do have a smell to them,

But it's certainly a much more organic feeling odor than xylene. Yes and they sure can cut trough oil based substances. Never hurts to have few real oil paintings in the works if your using the stuff regularly. Excuses the smell pretty well.

Lord of the terpenes from an olfactory POV.

Prices have skyrocketed though. It used to cost maybe 3-5 bucks a gallon at the old Standard Brands paint franchise. Good luck getting that sort of price these days.


  • Guest
Artist's turpentine Oderless turpentine Pure...
« Reply #11 on: July 05, 2004, 12:42:00 AM »
Artist's turpentine
Oderless turpentine
Pure turpentine

They smell nicer (but still like solvents) but they leave residues and are generally dirtier than the Mineral turpentine from supermarkets, the common variety.

Use any one you like.