Author Topic: DMT from MHRB in 2 hrs  (Read 18960 times)

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  • Guest
I know for a fact that the DMT/NaOH solution is ...
« Reply #40 on: July 27, 2002, 07:36:00 PM »
I know for a fact that the DMT/NaOH solution is unstable (Lilienthal said so). And I have a real sep funnel, freezind and pouring is good if you just dont want to deal with the emulsion and dont mind waiting overnight.


  • Guest
MHRB and tannins
« Reply #41 on: July 29, 2002, 11:30:00 AM »
The technique as mirrored at

looks great but I have a gutfeeling that the yields are low. Heating tannins and desirable alkaloids together in a dilute acidic environment means tar isn't it?

But an overnight cold water extraction in a very acidic environment (HCl, pH1) may hydrolize the tannins. So I have heard. Is that true?



  • Guest
« Reply #42 on: July 29, 2002, 03:59:00 PM »
tannins aren't a big problem,
just check this post:

Post 336258

(kurupira: "New method to bee tested...", Tryptamine Chemistry)

not yet tested by any bee,
but i'm sure it will work  :)


  • Guest
Reply to 'I know for a fact that the DMT/NaOH solu
« Reply #43 on: July 30, 2002, 06:59:00 AM »
I know for a fact that the DMT/NaOH solution is unstable (Lilienthal said so).

Two things about this.  First, "Lilenthal said so" is your evidence?  I'm pretty sure he's right, but still don't believe something just b/c someone said so, find out with scientific facts and site that as your reason.  ie - why the NaOH solution will cause it to be unstable. 

Second, NaOH is basic.  I thought we were talking about prolonged exposure to acidic conditions, right?  So the NaOH concern isn't relevant.  One would soak DMT alkaloid containing plant materials only in acidic conditions while trying to extract them.  Why would it be left to sit in a NaOH solution?  It would be extracted with a NP and the NaOH washed away with water and then either be left to dry and the NP evap., or another A/B would be performed. 

And the sep. funnel idea was not a personal suggesion, but I'm glad to know that you have a real one.  I was just giving someone who doesn't have real glassware a different OTC option to the freezing idea. 

freezind and pouring is good if you just dont want to deal with the emulsion and dont mind waiting overnight.

MaDMAx is right, filtering it until its clean will eliminate the emulsion problem.  It will also help to purify the goods some.  This is true in just about any separation.  Tiny little solids are the most common cause of emulsions from what swinl's seen.  Doing this will save more time than waiting for fairly sizable amounts of water to freeze in the freezer IMHO. 

Still though, it is a clever little idea, I like the novelty of it.


  • Guest
« Reply #44 on: August 01, 2002, 04:59:00 AM »

Also just for due cred.'s - for me, this last idea was inspired by PoohBear4Ever who pointed out that mustard caps fit 3L soda bottles ...

I feel sooo special  :) !  Too bad I never got to use those nice 3L sep funnels I built;  just had to smash 1K worth of equiptment due to some close people going down, and my name comming up.

Maybe one day,


Put your left leg down - your right leg up,
Tilt your head back - let's finish the cup!


  • Guest
That Lilienthal said so thing was a little bit of ...
« Reply #45 on: August 01, 2002, 08:37:00 AM »
That Lilienthal said so thing was a little bit of sarcasm. By the way, instead of extracting with alcocol first, just boil the powderized mimosa in a liter of pure vinegar (5% acetic acid) filter, boil solution down and filter again. I just tried it and it works like a charm. That's what I'm doing from now on. Oh, and if you can get concentrated ammonia, use it instead of NaOH.


  • Guest
Don't cite me wrong...
« Reply #46 on: August 01, 2002, 04:16:00 PM »
Tryptamines would be unstable if stored under very basic (or acidic) conditions. It's not a problem during extractions and workups.


  • Guest
« Reply #47 on: August 01, 2002, 10:30:00 PM »

 swim stored some extract in a naoh solution for a week or two.  When he got back to it, a tlc for the tryptamines came up negative everywhere...looked like it polymerized into black goo..

Infinite Radiant Light - THKRA


  • Guest
Same here!
« Reply #48 on: August 02, 2002, 12:40:00 AM »
I had the same results after 5 days or so...


  • Guest
Uh-Oh! Please help!
« Reply #49 on: August 14, 2002, 07:56:00 PM »
SWIM did everything as proscribed in this great thread here.  Even had access to a pretty well-equipped lab.  Final product is brown and somewhat liquid-y.  I've only seen hard product before.  It is also a bit too brown.  Inhaled small amount of vapors while evap. was finishing on the hot plate - burned like hell, not smokable.  Tasted some on tongue, burned pretty bad, no strong taste.  Now, I'm guessing that I either needed to do one more water wash and have left some NaOH on product, or didn't evap. all the toluene.  I don't think it's the latter because when I was evap'ing on hot plate it smelled like DMT in the air, not toluene.  If it's just NaOH, then I guess I'll just scrape up my product and throw it in 80 mL of toluene, stir and water was in sep funnel, then evap.  Anyone able to help, though, I'm just guessing here.

Rainbows & Butterflies Forever :)


  • Guest
Reply to 'Uh-Oh! Please help!'
« Reply #50 on: August 18, 2002, 12:15:00 AM »
I don't think it's the latter because when I was evap'ing on hot plate it smelled like DMT in the air, not toluene.

That's not good.  Its really easy to cook away your DMT this way.  That's why you're not supposed to dry with a hotplate.  You need to let it sit out at room temps to dry or a heat lamp not too close to the product at the most.  NaOH and organics that were not fully washed out are most likely the reason why there is no product.  Also, you may have a plant sample with low alkaloid content.  Make sure that you filter a lot and defat (wash polar layer while acidic with a NP solvent).  Extreme pH is necessary for MHRB.  Two A/B's puts out cleaner product.  And Ether or Naphtha evap. a lot faster than Tolly.  Peace.


  • Guest
oil in final product=not defatted properly lye in ...
« Reply #51 on: August 18, 2002, 12:42:00 AM »
oil in final product=not defatted properly
lye in final product=not backwashed properly

dark color= ?

If swiy is working with larger amounts, swim does not reccomend a fast extraction.  If swiy has enough to produce  just a little more than a few hits (remember, yields will bee sacrificed going fast) and is impatient, by all means -go the fast route.
Dont chuck what ya have there.  Make up some ~pH 2 H3O+, dissolve crystals/oil.  Make sure its pretty well agitated.  THEN add NP solvent to defat.  Gentle swirling/rocking for the first defat to avoid emulsions.  Discard NP.  repeat X2 with the NP.  Basify with basified DH2O 'till pH~10.  Add NP, SOAK for at least a day.  Gentle heat if ya want.  Swim reccomends wrapping the container in a heat blanket.  Three  extractions is ideal.  Take the combined NP extracts, and wash with slightly basic DH2O X3.  Once again- gently add it, and gently swirl.  The backwashing that your doing removes the excess NaOH from the final product.  No need to soak with the washes, just make sure it has thouroghly separated.  Swiy should see a clear, glass-like surface before separating.  Swiy could also throw in a little brine  as well - just to bee anal.  Let the wash sit ~15 min, and it should bee fine to separate and discard the aq layer.  Vap.  Minimal heat if any at all.  Scrape (swims favorite part) and enjoy.

DMT... its good for what ails ya!
Just remember to bring back some of the love.


  • Guest
akata sez:
« Reply #52 on: August 19, 2002, 11:35:00 PM »
I spoke with akata a week or two ago and she cpncurs with locrian, extreme care must be taken when evaporating the final washed solvent - no higher than 20-30°

This she says made her kick her cat when she'd  boiled down a couple of what looked like promising 'milky when basified' pots and evapped them down to nish



  • Guest
Sorry to be an ass - but I had to say it...
« Reply #53 on: November 04, 2002, 10:59:00 PM »
Regardless of what they say on that website, trust me: Defatting is not necessary with MHRB.

  And yet...

those clowns used to get orange wax every time...'re smoking wax.

Rev. Psi Locybe, insane alchemist.


  • Guest
Have you ever seen DMT freebase?
« Reply #54 on: November 04, 2002, 11:24:00 PM »
Have you ever seen DMT freebase? If you can tell DMT freebase from wax of the same color, then you are worthy of a gold star.


  • Guest
colour of freebase
« Reply #55 on: November 05, 2002, 02:01:00 PM »
DMT freebase, when pure and freshly extracted is white and crystalline. To my mind it looks different from orange wax.

However, most extractions produce a waxy, non-crystalline product. I have found that purifying via A/B with light petroleum ether yields a white crystalline product as opposed to an orange waxy one.


  • Guest
The crystals go from white to orange due to ...
« Reply #56 on: November 05, 2002, 05:24:00 PM »
The crystals go from white to orange due to oxidation, regardless of the solvent that is used.  If a waxy/oily product is produced, performing another A/B will clean it up nicely- swim did this over the summer on a batch that he had made that was done kind of hastily.  After the second A/B, the crystals where almost crunchy and to this day look wet and reflective (they sparkle!).  Very easy to tell these crystals from wax...

Loriel... because Im worth it!