RP/Acetone filter question

[wimpy]

Hey!
SWIM'S finger are still bleeding from ripping and cutting matchboxes, after that and the acetone thing he tried coffee filters, tee filters, decanting, the "charmin' plug" and even cigarette filters, but that bloody Acetone/RP mix always cloggs the filter after a few seconds seconds (
It really sucks, SWIM's fingers hurt, his head aches, his stomach is turning around more and more, he's feeling dizzy and that f** mix is still in the
funnel
Any hint on better filter material or method for mortal average people before he will begin to throw up an give it up?
Would be great,
thanks

[xtc4fun]

here's what swix does...put tone/RP mix into a jar and let settle 8-12 hrs just so all the RP is at the bottom of the jar then u can desent the tone off the top of the RP with no problem just make sure u do it slow.. then add water about 2-3" above the RP shake like hell then filter through a coffee filter. this will filter in like 5 mins depending on how much rp u have..

[warlock]

I would take the acetone and soak it in a mix of denat alc./acetone - filter out rp.  Then you want to soak it in hydrochloric acid(pool cleaner)to remove some paper decant off and dry.   Then I would wash again with any np solvent, my preference it toluene..filter.  Then I take a few of the cone shaped filters and wash with distilled h20.  filter again.  If needed use can always rinse it with sulfuric acid , however it will oxidize the rp.so it is not suggested
This is the method for really clean rp.  When it drys your ready to complete your rxn.

[wimpy]

hey xtc4fun, warlock - swim will follow your advices tomorrow, today he had an overdose of acetone. uargh ...
thanks a lot, he was nearly throwing everything away, but, well, all that acetone - he's not himself anymore today
again, thank you very much!

[BullwinkleMoose]

Allways settle and decant !

Or get real good at siphoning and use a small tube to drain off the acetone.

Or use a Pippette or turkey baster type device !

The only time your RP should see a filter is when you are filtering your Post Reaction Solution: to recover the rp !


Once Moosed, Now back from dead !
beebo

[abominator]

A search helped me find this great thread[utfse]

Check Squid's method, which is just the same as swim's preferred method and is filterless(check the whole thread for more info):

Post 313031 (missing)

(SQUIDIPPY: "MBRP ; Squidstyle", Stimulants)

[wimpy]

thanks for all the hints, and yes, using the fse might have helped too if swim wasn't that acetone brainwashed that evening.

He first time used an electrical  hand stirrer and it was a complete mess. He don't knows about better results, but if one ever tries that he should be using a very big (or at least big enough) container, or elseway he will have the same funny results than swim, including all the glue and shit swim has to deal with now.

thanks a lot all, the next run will become a better one!

[p2e3r4f5e6c7t8]

Helloo wimpy, How are ya mate.
Swip was just wondering why you and other bee's would wand to make a great big mess turning the strikers/RP into a messy pulp paper mache type sluge, Swip knows its tedious work but why dont you just scrape them 1 by 1 and avoid all that fucking paper mache mess ?

Hears what swip dose.
1.Soaks his strikers for about 20 minuts prior to scraping in some MEK.
2.Then have another shallow container with some more MEK in it to give the strikers a light rub with a small paint brush(artist type) and just continue untill there all done, After say 20-30 strikers are done pour the MEK/RP mixture through your coffee filter and proced with a little more fresh MEK.
3.Once there all done swip rinses all the RP in the coffee filter with a good amount of MEK(cheaper than acetone for swip) and lets dry.
4.Swip then puts the crude RP in a container with some dh20 and filters again.
5.After drying it again swip shakes the RP through a bakers flour sive to get rid of as much little bit's of paper as possible(water makes the paper swell up & makes it easyer to keep the little bits of paper in the sive.
6.Then a light boil in some Hci and one wash with some acetone this time and it comes up pretty clean, Swip has never had problems with it yet
But this is just swip's method , Just do what ever works for you and makes things easy, It aint brain surgery

[BullwinkleMoose]

WOW
moose has done this twice , AND NOT BY CHOICE !

there's a trick that nearly removes the need for agitation in removing the RP from the paper backs.

PROCEDURE:

1. take cut strikers and cover with hot water and soak for like 5 second MAXINUM ! 
( any longer will cause the paper fibers to disintigrate and be introduced into the extracted RP ! )

Then QUICKLY decant out the water and 'JUST COVER' the strikers with acetone and swirl (this stops the waters disintigration of the paper )

We now have slightly swollen, slightly wet paper backs


2. Add an equal amount of denatured alcohol to the Acetone \ Strikers and stirr.

3. Allow 5 minutes to soak and come bak to stirr( OR SHAKE ) again ..


The RP will come off in big shingles easilly.

This works because the glue binding the RP to the paper is less adherent to wet paper. Also because the swollen paper begins to release itself from the 'glue \ RP' , which didn't swell up from the waters action.


Got it ?
Get it !

[CharlieBigpotato]

some of the tried and true methods in the archives are amazingly wasteful of solvents. moose's sugestion here is quite elegant, imho; unless he's a communist.
zib's contribution herein is 10 fold better than most; but the moose's is better.
very little solvent and no scraping is required.
glue is the fucker, as per reactable rp.
the other inerts are harmless, as long as you can obtain a powdery-dry finished item; and calculate the amt. of inert stuff, add double (at least) the weight of this ingrediant.
over-kill on the I2 part is much stupider.

[warlock]

SWiW is always using to much solvent I know.  However he gets clean rp, however it never gets all the way to a powdery consisitency.  Most of it is but there are always those little fucking granules  that will not powder unless manipulated.  When worked inbetween fingers it powder down.  I would think there would be something left in my rp but the prefire with resublimed iodine worked quite well.  It was done on an open plate a drop of water and a lighter underneath as a heat source.  Everything worked like clockwork it all seems ok.  I was just wondering about  the granules that swiw always seems to come up with after rp exctraction.  Any commments fellow bee's?

[Scottydog]

When Swim would use MBRP, the situation with the remaining granules was a very common experience for him.

Take this crude MBRP and pour it all into a coffee filter. Use the bottom of any glass jar to crush these granules as much as possible before doing a few boils with "the red bottle" isopropyl alcohol. Finish it up with a final wash in acetone. All of it should bee an amorphous powder at this point.

[BullwinkleMoose]

CharlieBigpotato is right on the money !

Glue and coloring inks are the only concern:
the other inerts such as glass and paper fibers do not affect the reaction....

They only affect the weighing of the RP.

One must compensate, in weight, a little when using RP that contains glass and or paper fibers.

good call Chuck Fat Spud

[biotechdude]

Back in the day, Swix cut the strikers off with sharp scissors, then put them all in a bucket and covered with methanol. 

Then he put on some gloves and massaged the striker pads against eachother and his thumb.  All the rp came off within 20 mins and left a nice sediment layer in the bottom. 

Then the naked strips were simply lifted out of the mix and the majority of the methanol decanted.  Then the rp was dried and subjected to acetone, hcl and dH2O boils.  Although, these steps didn't change the rp consistency and smoothness much.  Reacted a treat...

[Prepuce]

Soaking the strikers too long is what gives you the paint and more glue than would otherwise be the case. Here's SWIP's recipe.

Cut off strikers, place in jar. Cover with IPA--at least 60% and about double the volume of the strikers. Stir gently with a glass rod or bamboo skewer, and keep an eye on the strikers. It about five minutes they will be clean of the RP. Strain the liquid and let it settle for two or three hours at least. In three hours it will look like nothing settled, but carefully decant most of the liquid into another jar. Watch what's coming out because there will be a blob of rp at the bottom.

After decanting cover the blob with a large excess of IPA, stir well and let it sit again. This time it won't take so long to settle. After it does, decant again, rinse with acetone and decant, then boil for about two minutes. Let settle and decant the liquid. Rinse again with acetone to speed drying, and you will have some very clean rp. No glue, paint. Maybe just a little fine, gray sand that you can pan away in acetone if it bothers you.

Save the liquid you decanted. Leave it in the jars covered for a day or so until it settles. When it does, decant the liquid, clean as above.

If you have some rp with a lot of glue you can clean it quickly with a little laquer thinner. You'll be able to see it working. If it doesn't clean right up you need more laquer thinner. If the dirty rp is wet with water, first pour off as much as possible and rinse with acetone before you use the LT.

PP

[chronic_cook]

That's how SWIM does it. After it's been settled in the IPA solution (x2) add about 4x water to the rp just leave it in the same container and add some acetone. The water will turn white and the glue will be removed. Don't boil it, just flood it with some HCL, rince with 'tone and dry the shit...

[Prepuce]

SWIP believes that a short boil (in dH2O), is probably the most important step of the cleaning. So many things are soluble in hot water, why not take another minute and get rid of everytning you can?

PP