ok here's my fav ghetto fab design its good for quick breakdown and storage :
condensed and screwed
principle of design - a large ghetto fab condensor designed to break down into modular pieces for ease of hiding and transport.
note : all plumbing type pieces are CPVC unless stated otherwise, all connections on CPVC is threaded unless stated other wise.
1 4 ft tube of 1/2" pyrex or 1/2" flourescent light tubing with ends squared off (pyrex works best)
1 4ft 1 1/4" acrylic flourescent light sheath
2 1 1/4" T's
2 1 1/4"(m) to 1/2"(f) reducers
2 1 1/4"(m) to 3/4"(f) reducers
2 pvc 1 1/4"(m) to 1 1/4"(f)socketed bushings (socketed is flush)
2 brass 3/4" nipples (m to m)
2 brass garden hose quick connects
2 1/2" rubber grommets or thick rubber washers
pvc cement
silicon sealant(may not be needed)
teflon tape
dremel (with glass cutting wheel and carbide tile bit)
mapp or propane plumbers torch (mapp is best)
1 > first decide on size and cut acrylic tubing to accomidate. then roughen external surface of each end and set aside. then roughen inside surface of each flush pvc bushing. apply pvc cement and/or silicon sealant to all roughened surfaces, insert acrylic into pvc and put aside. take care to align the screw ends of the pvc so that the beginning of the threading is on the same plane facing the same way or on the same plane facing opposit. this will determin it=f your intake/outakes are on the same or opposite sides of the condensor.
2> once cement/sealant is thoroughly dried take acrylic/pvc 'window' and loosly attach at at both end, and also 1 - 1 1/4" to 1/2" reducer on each end.grind/sand down the threads in each of the end reducers to allow 1/2 glass to slide snugly though. use this rough construct as a tool to decide on the length of the inner glass tubing. mark tubing at one end approximately where the tubing is going to meet the reducer on the inside.. do this for both ends.
3> take your glass rod and cap one end, then heat the glass as evenly as possible around one of your markings. blow the glass so that the diameter is about 3/4". let cool and repeat for other end.
4> now its time to assemble the condensor. wraps all threads with teflon tape. now assemble. heres the order brass quick connect to brass nipple, brassnipple to reducer, reducer to T - repeat that for the second T. now screw the tees onto the 'window' and you should be left with the grommets, the inner glass tubing and the two reducers that cap the T's. place the gromets on the outer sides of each 3/4" bulge and then slip the reducers down onto the ends of the glass. if needed you may want to add an o ring to the insode of the reducer. now carefully screw in each end a lil at a time and try to keep the number of rotations the same. do this back and forth until both ends start to tighten. now heres the tricky part, and will take two large gripping tookls of some sort. on each end you will grip the reducer with one tool and the T with the other. slowly tighten the ends until both take alot of effort to move. if you get it too tight yopu'll never getthe fucker apart, and that kinda defeaets it''s purpose.
then attach hoses to quick conects and trouble shoot any leaks. there should be none
and thats it. aside from building the window pipe piece and grinding down the threads and then blowing the glass it takes nor significant building expertise aside from being able to screw.