Or maybe point me in other safe Aquisition direction.
Scorpion
Thanks for the info.
Scorpion
I told them nicely that they oughta stock some straight-up glacial instead of all this "new-fangled" stuff, and I left. Guess I'll have to order the straight-up from PF.
Oh, and if anyone at a photo supply store ever has the nerve to ask you what you want glacial acetic for (that would be a truly idiotic question), it would be perfectly appropriate for you (a photographer) to say, "What do I want it for? Are you an idiot?".
Loafter uses that indicator stop bath.
This is what it is, as per MSDS:
. COMPOSITION/INFORMATION ON INGREDIENTS
Weight % - Component - (CAS Registry No.) Concentrate:
85-90 Acetic acid (000064-19-7)
10- 15 Water (007732-18-5)
< 0.1 Bromocresol purple (000115-40-2)
should bee good to roll with, methinks...
:-)
Materials:
Gallon of White Vinegar. (Try to get 9% acidity "pickling" vinegar)
Container of Lye
Sulfuric Drain Opener
pH paper
Distillation rig
Plastic bucket
Large cassarole pan(sp?) Pyrex glass and Corning ceremics are good.
Method:
Pour vinegar into the bucket. Add lye a little at a time. Bee careful about that volcano action. Also always keep lye bottle closed when not using it. And don't use a metal spoon.
Sodium Acetate is being formed. It is water soluable so you won't see it. Keep adding lye until it stops fizzing when more is added. Check the pH. You are shooting for a pH between 7 and 9. If it is below 7 then, when you go to concentrate it, some of the vinegar will vaporize and stink. The higher it is above 7 the more unreacted lye will be left over so add slowly.
Pour the liquid into your cassarole dish. The inevitable extra lye is why you've gotta use glass. Lye will react with the glass but very slowly. Whatever you do don't use an aluminum pot! Put it in the oven at 300C so that the water will all evaporate away. Expect it to take many many hours.
When all the water is gone you'll be left with a crusty substance that is mostly sodium acetate but also probably a little bit of lye. You will be happy if you are not using a white cassarole because it will be easier to see it and get it all out when you start scraping...
Slowly and Carefully add sulfuric drain opener. Distill and collect between 110-125.
Not quite pure but close enough for most uses...
Whether or not it could REPLACE glacial would depend on what you were using it for, I guess (sorry, I know that doesn't answer your question).
I wonder if you absolutely HAD to have glacial (like if you were making an ester, for some kind of electrical experiment or something), you could take this Kodak indicator stuff and dry it using MgSO4 or some other drying agent, and keep drying it until it doesn't lose anymore weight?
Then you'd have glacial (with a little bit of purple shit in it), right?
But...
Loafter has been using this 85-90% stuff to do the performic
or peracetic in this case.
I havent got product yet, but if youwanna check out I AM A VIRGIN in Methods, you can follow the experiments
Loafter figures that if performic uses 80%Formic, then using that kodak shit at full strength would probably work, since formic is a stronger acid than Acetic...
Actually, this bee would rather have tried with 100% Acetic, for that reson, but alas, all he could find was the kodak indicator stuff...
Check methods, Ill keep it posted...
Much Love for the Bee Massive
Loaf
Therefore you need the glacial, to mix your own stop fix.
X-ray is very similar to a black and white photo.
The film processing chemicals are almost the same, The stop fix is identical.
It neutralizes the developer solution that sticks to the film,
So that the expensive fixer is not weakened.
And prevents over-development (darkening of the film)
Film are placed in the developer solution then washed in water
Then the fixer solution , clears away the extra Silver and I0dine
When adding the acetic to the epsom, the epsom seems to disappear, it is in solution holding the water.
So you still need to do a distillation to remove the acetic from the MgSO4 solution.
Although I have yet to try it, The absorbant Silicates are a good place to start.
The little packets that ship with pills and electronics.
I assume they will need to be baked till dry
and filtered away