removing glue from mbrp

[Inuyasha]

[12cheman12]

the acetone washes and HCL washes are there to REMOVE glues and other products you dont want, If you evap the acetone while its still in the RP then all you are doing is re introducing the gaks you removed back into the RP. Boil in acetone and HCL then filter and throw away the acetone and hcl, keeping the RP for further cleaning or let it dry completly ready for use. Hope this helps.

[kris_1108]

Chemmie is spot on-

Decant the actone, methanol, and diluted HCl! The glue and shit is dissolved in these, so you need to get rid of it!

[the_wasper]

your mbrp once and clean with acetone then dried, any glue that was left will bee easy to identify and manually pick out

[gluecifer69]

Have any bees experienced the popping red phenomenon?  Immediately after the rxn gets in full swing the red will start popping and splattering the side walls of the rxn vessel.

I know of one other bee with whom I communicated via PM about this and he has since abandoned mbrp all together, in favor of hypo.

I don't experience it with all types of mbrp, but one.  It is not the girl's best friend kind, however on those the yeild has been greatly decreased.

Any comments or related stories would be appreciated.

[wareami]

Or Isopropyl + Acetone.
It's all Ibee's ever used for cleaning MB.
The amount of tone used around the UP-AWE-NITE labs exceeds the amount of other solvents. So conservation became an issue ware tone is concerned.
70% Denat mixed with 30% tone rids the MBRP of there strikerpads and the glue.
A few straight tone washes after the initial stikerpad stripping, done correctly, with decanting off the tone, will remove most paints as well.
It's a gravity thing!
In clean pfed rxns, the only thing Ibee does immediately following the DH2O RP filtering is to clean the used MBRP with tone washes only before running in the next run.
The only time Ibee ever uses HCL or H2SO4 is when cleaning used MBRP from gaaked rxns.
Never uses water and never boils anything.
RP can bee stripped from their striker pads with denatured alky alone. Most Denatured alkys contains a rubber solvent that dissolves the glue.

Gluecifer: haven't experienced this MBRP popping.

[geezmeister]

Unlike ware, I always simmer my fresh mbrP in hot HCl for fifteen to thirty minutes with occasional stirring, then wash repeatedly with fresh water until the HCl is gone.

To any newbee about to scrape strikers for the first time, I seriously and strenuously urge you first to study and learn the gospel according to Squidippy:

Post 339095 (missing)

(SQUIDIPPY: "Red Phosphorus - Read this first!", Stimulants)

[biotechdude]

SQUIDIPPY posts are right on the money.

Swix cant remember where but a Bee posted that the best indicator your mbRP is clean is by texture.  That is, clean mbRP should be 'slippery fine baby powder smooth' when rubbed between your law-abiding fingers.

If glues are present (felt after initial scrape off), the crude mbRP is gritty and of uneven consistency.

[Jacked]

Try basifying the last HCl wash, what glue that's left gets pliable and separates by staying on the top while the red sinks to the bottom. Swim played with this a bit and thinks its worth a little more looking into. The cleanest he has ever seen is after a reaction, simulating such a thing is not out of the question either..

[morpheus]

With each use a little rp is used up.
Also mbrp seems to drop a little in strength
after the first time.
Prefiring does an excellant job of cleaning but
the above makes for a trade-off unless you can clean
it good enough with acids, solvents,alkies and the like.