2) Are you suggesting to use HDPE tubing for these distillations? (Sorry, kinda confused from your last post, you mention tubing, but then seem to call it HDPE, just verifying)High-Density polyethylene. Black irrigation tubing.
3)You mentioned earlier somewhere that the ste extraction would not work on practially any aussie pill. Does this mean that aussie pills are even harder to extract than US pills?It's just not a thorough clean at all imo man. A xylene boil, a boil in the VM&P out of VideoEditors pantry will achieve identical results as far as I can see. As a clean I think doing the boils separately is actually better.
When the solvent used is saturated it precipitates any further gak, and that's it.
This is how that clean works, simultaneously: the pfed is extracted in to the isopronal, gak is dissolved in the two solvents, xylene and naphtha...as the temperature rises, the isopropanol is boiled off and the pfed precipitates..the gak remains solvated in the naptha/xylene.
But here's what this description doesn't discribe: In the first instance: No where near all gak is solvated, it just doesn't happen in these times, so what the solvents don't dissolve, they precipitate obviously.
(Whether it be that the solvents are saturated with gak, or if the solvents just don't dissolove a particular gak)
In the second and final phase of boiling, the propanol has evaporated, the pfed is precipitated, along with any gak which has been solvated.
About Auzpills, here is what makes our task more difficult (blessing in disguise), we don't have innactives listed on boxes, they are more expensive, we have less brand options, less pills per box. The main problem is that Auzbees can't run as many tests because of all those factors.
Swim has often wondered why no one has succesfully used dilute acid/base soaks and stuff. Some say that this activates gakks, but surely there is a way of getting a gakk away from the sudo, we just haven't found it yetThe reason for this is undeniably beecause Geezmeister & Wareami have taught generations of newbee's to stay well away from water.
You'll now in the coming monthes see this methodology kast aside IMO. Well I know it will...
In fact it's already started, look up a post by hellman recently (there will only be a few), ballzofsteel describes a boil with a splash of vinegar a bit in to the thread to remove cellulose.
Swim has been following, with great interest he might add, your posts in the tetra trap (and others) thread. You have made some interesting points lately. Swim is curious to know what you would call the "ultimate/universal" extraction procedure (ie what do you use). Obviously you may wish to keep this secret, and swim totally understands if you do. lol Nah it's cool man, I don't really have an ultimate clean, up until now I thought we were working together for an ultimate clean. But competition is good, it dosn't lend itself to openness of ideas though.
My current thinking is that dry basing is the way to go, as it will always get some results, tetra or no tetra, no bottom solvent either.
Problems that affect this fundemental plan from being quantitative (100%) are theoretically
glues and plastics, they stop all the pfed molecules from based, and also successfully based pfed molecules from being released in to the NP, cellulose and hydrogels have the same net effect here.
So these problems must bee solved in pre-washes, before we enter our feedstock in to the dry basing phase we've agreed is the second step.
To do this in a virtually lossless manner we do this.
Place the ground up pills in 3 coffee filters, place a binder clip over the lips to close it, we tie a piece of string to the clip-ring and dangle it in our boiling solvents.
Ill continue... To restore a nice chalky texture to the pill mass in the coffee filters to restore something which is easily ground with the base, we pestle ourselves up a piece of chalk and add it to the washed pfed. (Please note: Chalkyness won't obstruct basification as glues and plastics will.)
Solvent selection for this de-plasticizing, de-glueing and de-cellulosing phase.1. A 12hr soak in acetone to dissolve out celluloses. (Uncertain whether a boil should follow this, it will dissolve some pfed, it's a matter of whether that is a price necessary to make de-plasticising/de-resinating gains)
2. DCM, Perchloroethylene. I'm not certain if DCM is a subset of PCE or if they don't quite overlap. Either of these will remove anti-histamines as a bonus, but plastics and glues are the concern.
3. Toluene and or xylene to remove waxes and glues.
Final Preparation for Dry BasingA nice dry, chalky texture is the sole pre-requisite for this. In order that the feedstock can be mixed with the base.
If it's discovered that the result of our teabag washes is a load of gooey plasticky shift (still), we must decide, more washes? Or force a chalky texture with the addition of chalk or similar?
We do as much mixing in the filter papers as possible, both of the base with the washed pills, and of the chalk with the pills if this is needed.
Dry Basing – The Main ShowIt seems a simple enough concept, and it is, except for orange, *sad*.
Now let's consider orange...It's a little cunt that tranforms in to an orange oil when a) too much base is present, i.e the pH is too high. And b) when a proper amount of base is added and heat is applied.
What this orange fluid does is this: It dissolves formed freebase – so that instead of moving up in to a Non-polar as they usually would, they remain dissolved in the orange oil alternative.
I dare suggest that if you left it in this state for a week, a good proportion would cross the interface. i.e out of the acqueous orange and in to the NP/oranic phase. (But we want to hurry things along a little dont we?)
Note this: If the critical pHis first reached to achieve a proper basing i.e fb has opportunity to transfer to a NP without orange hindrence...but then it's accidently overstepped to Orange water release, then the TIME and OPPORTUNITY between these two points is of great importance.
- So to give ourselves the best opportunity of the TIME being a long time between these two points slow basification should bee used.
- To give the pfed the best OPPORTUNITY to use this time. i.e to escape in to a Non-Polar before the orange pH is accidently reached, we must give the based fb the greatest
interface surface areathrough which to escape.
With a bottom-layer of a chlorinated solvent, and a top layer of a less dense solvent such as toluene or xylene, we provide twice the interface surface area.
But then at the critical point when the orange water has been released and has the remainder of the pfed which didn't make it across dissolved in it these are the new enemies to complete phase transfer of the pfed.
i)Viscosity of the orange/fb/water solution. As this quantity/variable increases, so does the following quantity;
ii) Time required to finish off phase transfer of fb to NP.
So what do we do?
Oh no! sad - We've already got twice the interface surface area, isn't that enough Jesus? Dad? No Son, that just isn't fucken good enough – you fail you fucken losty!you embaressing little barstadWe use warmth and a generous amount of time, depending on how well it goes.
We use acetone in the basing medium to decrease viscosity.
We use acetone in the basing medium to bee partly miscible with the DCM/ toluene or xylene
We use alcohol for it's limited miscibility with DCM and toluene.
In combination these weaken the intermolecular forces between the fb and the orange, and also keep the orange strapped for water that it needs to work to it's full fb hugging ability.
We're getting some pretty cool test results coming in from the TetraTrap thread, 1 from geesemaster, 1 from SAWTY both testing alcohol...and a stranger has posted a result using acetone. Note that these results are only of importance in selection of a basing medium.
Anyway Ill stop thare for now. Tell me if you need clarification/simplification.
