Author Topic: Best extraction method. well tested  (Read 7435 times)

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evilscripter69

  • Guest
Best extraction method. well tested
« on: September 02, 2004, 05:16:00 PM »
Tested on 30's, 60's and also 120's,(known gakk filled,PS80 and eudragit)  rx product is top notch.SWIM's yeilds have been averaging 60% on the E Extraction, and 70% on the Rx, Tetra Trap followed by SPD. Scaled up version SWIM uses 2 flasks one filled with xylene, 3/4 inch glass tube connecting the two. light flow from aquarium iar pump to drive the FB across, SWIM's last attempt yeilded a nearly solid mass of E upon gassing the xylene, this also seems to have killed the smurf (trip) Do at lest 2 pulls on the tetra trap, Use naptha, yeilds will depend on your amounts of water added and ther temperature its boiled at, SWIM finds a vigorous boil , right as the color of pill mass starts to change pull it fropm heat and filter it hot, crash in freezer,
THIS WORKS VERY WELL, any Bees need guidance with this pm me, will be glad to help, so far this seems to be a universal cure to the new gakks. 8)

ChemoSabe

  • Guest
Combining Pill types?
« Reply #1 on: September 02, 2004, 06:11:00 PM »
Has combining some different pill stocks on a run yet been tried?

Like for example do you think pre euradigit WW 120's mixed with current issue (fully gakk loaded) name brand 240s would be compatible to run simultaneous with this?

And more importantly can you diagram your short path distillation setup for us? Even a crude drawing would be helpful. I read this

Post 520830

(evilscripter69: "Scaled up SPD ?", Stimulants)
but a diagram for something like this is worth more than a thousand words.

About how much time does the distillation take?

Would a setup like this do the trick?



Or for an even shorter path the 200mm lickbag condenser could be eliminated with only the straight vac adapter between the still head and the collection flask.


evilscripter69

  • Guest
here is the setup
« Reply #2 on: September 03, 2004, 05:44:00 AM »

evilscripter69

  • Guest
takes about 90 minutes for 30 grams
« Reply #3 on: September 03, 2004, 05:58:00 AM »
but knowing now the melting point 325*F +/-  it will be faster nest run.

Shane_Warne

  • Guest
is this right?
« Reply #4 on: September 03, 2004, 07:01:00 AM »
es69, in that first flask is the TT powder mix or gups and base, and it distills as it's formed? (either by steam or SPD)

12cheman12

  • Guest
evilscripter69 can you crop your pictures down
« Reply #5 on: September 03, 2004, 07:18:00 AM »
evilscripter69 can you crop your pictures down before you post em up?


evilscripter69

  • Guest
first flask has the FB
« Reply #6 on: September 03, 2004, 08:51:00 AM »
Freebase Pseudoephedrine via TT - cleaned up with SPD - dissolved in xylene - gassed for finished product = happy reactions and killer shit.

abominator

  • Guest
Gluecifer's experience on running differnt pills
« Reply #7 on: September 04, 2004, 05:21:00 AM »
When all types of pills are cleaned properly swim has never had trouble combining different pill types in a rxn.  gluecifer almost always uses a motely of pillz.  He cant tell any differece from those runs than ones with the same pillstock.


Prepuce

  • Guest
Why gas the FB?
« Reply #8 on: September 08, 2004, 06:51:00 PM »
ES, I really like what you've done with this. Your method does away with the double A/B, which is the major liability of mine. Nice work.

Now if I can just find some of those glass tubes you used!

[edit - the rest of this post has been deleted, as the authors thinking was obviously short circuited at the time of writing.]

PP

evilscripter69

  • Guest
Try Naptha
« Reply #9 on: September 10, 2004, 10:41:00 PM »
try using Naptha in the collection flask, it shouldnt be suceptible to melting from the solvent like the xylene, SWIM's currently testing this out.
One word of caution, the crystals in the melting flask may contain Gakk in them, recycle them until nothing remains in the flask but the Orange/Yellow gakk layer. Orange plastic doenst smoke well(WHICH YOU WILL HAVE)if you rx the flask xtals.

evilscripter69

  • Guest
Why gas the FB?
« Reply #10 on: September 10, 2004, 10:46:00 PM »
the Hcl salt is easier for most bees to work with.
SWIM will try it in FB rx, see how it runs.

Prepuce

  • Guest
FB reactions not difficult
« Reply #11 on: September 11, 2004, 02:47:00 AM »
ES, you write,

"the Hcl salt is easier for most bees to work with. "

You're right, but only because that's what they're used to. If  they try VideoEditor's Wet Start Reaction

Post 362507 (missing)

(VideoEditor: "Free Base - The Wet Start Rxn", Stimulants)
they might decide otherwise.

Your method might be interesting if the second beaker contained VM&P naptha to catch the FB. Of course you'd have to freeze to get it all, just like you do with TT. Most of the other commonly used solvents would hold the FB and would have to be evaporated--not a desirable way to go.

PP

Prepuce

  • Guest
pfed FB melting point
« Reply #12 on: September 11, 2004, 03:39:00 AM »
ES, SWIP just noticed this.

"but knowing now the melting point 325*F +/-  it will be faster nest run."

The melting point of pfed FB is 118 C = 244 F.
For pfed hcl the MP is roughly 180 C = 356 F.

PP

Jacked

  • Guest
Reply
« Reply #13 on: September 11, 2004, 05:02:00 AM »
Freebase makes better dope. I was the first one around here to get a grip on freebase reactions in a push pull, It is the answer to OTC reagents and good starting reactions with strong finnishing results.
 Freebase is much easer to control in a LWR than it is with a push pull but both is doable and easy.. It makes better dope bottom line and thats the main reason it is done.


Prepuce

  • Guest
You're not going to get any better than that
« Reply #14 on: September 11, 2004, 07:55:00 AM »
You're not going to get a better endorsement for freebase reactions than the one from Jacked. He doesn't post very often but most bees who have been around the Hive for any length of time have learned to listen when he does.

Yeah, kind of like the old Payne Webber commercials.  ;D

PP

74L

  • Guest
E S thanks 4 the reply
« Reply #15 on: September 13, 2004, 01:43:00 AM »
Swim thought u forgot about him.  He figured naptha used with plastic 1/2 in. tube mite bee the getto solution .

     he put the TT FB in a 250ml rb flask /tube going 2 jar-o-np.
   Didn't work out 2 hot.
     Heated at 250*f,  bubled at other end just like he beleaves its supposed to yet, after 1.5 hrs he got 1g nice angelic FB cristals from tube & top of flask ,tryed crash'n the np in freezer 2 find nothing. This from 5.5g fb.
 there's still alot in the bottom of spd flask. looks kinda yellow but might still bee holding.
  The free base should bee pretty klean from TT, only got about 45% back from that. Used  30-120s,48- 60s,then 3x96-30s sepretly then combined 4 spd.
 he's thinking 2 cut the bottom off a test tube & use at bubler end with exyleen 2 c how that works. 
   Any other Bee's on the same page? 
  My thanks 2 ES 4 all his help.


ChemoSabe

  • Guest
EF Hutton?
« Reply #16 on: September 13, 2004, 02:43:00 AM »
If you can do an LWR with pseudo hydrochloride you can do one with FB no sweat. Just be sure to get your ratios straight. It's on the short hot ones where you need the extra precautions.

Prepuce wrote yeah, kind of like the old Payne Webber commercials.

wasn't that EF Hutton ?  8)


Prepuce

  • Guest
EF Hutton?
« Reply #17 on: September 13, 2004, 04:57:00 AM »
Damn Chemo, I think you're right.

Thank you, Payne Webber.

PP

Prepuce

  • Guest
So you wrote the mystery message
« Reply #18 on: September 13, 2004, 05:22:00 AM »
74L, that ES was responding to.

SWIP's advice is to scrap the plastic pipe and use a short peice of copper pipe if you can't get glass. Although the temperatures should not be high enough to melt plastic, especially if you use CPVC, the solvents will be pretty hard on it and you might end up with residue in your product.

Heating to 250 F is pretty conservative, especially if you're measuring the temperature on the outside of the heating flask. That equates to ~121 C, which is only three degrees higher than the melting point. If you can get the FB to vaporize at that temperature great, it's good to keep the temperature as low as possible. It's not unusual to need to repeat the process several times to get through a batch, or at least that's been SWIPs experience. Between each scrape the bottom of the flask and break up the FB that has melted together. It often begins to seperate into areas that are tinged with yellow and others that are not. As long as you're going to cook it again you can ignore that and just grind it all up to powder.

SWIM recently tried ES's procedure, although because he wanted FB as the final product, instead of condensing the SPD vapors into another solvent he put the receiver in an ice bath. He then installed another tube into the receiver and connected it to a second receiver which was also in an ice bath, then applied heat to the FB and activated a pump. The second receiver was insurance in case all the FB didn't condense into the first receiver, but it did not work well. The second receiver had an exit tube for safety--didn't want to build up pressure that couldn't somehow be released--but the smell of the air exiting this tube told SWIP that it wasn't only air escaping. Therefore he went back to his original method using a coldfinger test tube in a flask, which has always worked fine with the quantities he processes. For the record, he has no doubt that condensing the vapors into a sovent with a high affinity for them, like xylene, for example, would work much better. Naptha might be another matter, especially if it isn't heated. It would be interesting to know.

PP

evilscripter69

  • Guest
you need more heat
« Reply #19 on: September 15, 2004, 07:27:00 PM »
Heated at 250*f  bubled at other end just like he beleaves its supposed to yet, after 1.5 hrs he got 1g nice angelic FB cristals from tube & top of flask ,tryed crash'n the np in freezer 2 find nothing. This from 5.5g fb.
 there's still alot in the bottom of spd flask. looks kinda yellow but might still bee holding.heat it to minimum of 325 degrees F.
SWIM has a new setup that works better , excuse the hasty sketch.