Pardon my ignorance but how are everyone getting their safrole crystals?Sometimes even at -18C it wouldn't crystallize for me. Get a seed crystal take a test tube with 1ml or so of your oil, put the test tube in a bowl of alcohol in the freezer and drop the temp as low as possible. Wait a night or 2 and add the seed crystal to the supercooled oil and watch it crystallize. Pour out the remaining oil, which was thick and smelled of cloves.
DopeBee
- Pupae


- Posts: 52
xxxxx
- Larvae

- Posts: 8
Sorry for being stupid here again but I can't find Jons original post where he describes the ascetic acid wash in detail. Do I just shake equal volumes of GAA with the raw sassafras? Or am I meant to dilute the GAA with water first then wash and separate the safrole layer. Then quickly vacuum distill the oil followed by atmospheric distillation of the purified safrole, to separate the fractions a bit better and to confirm the b.p?
Shake
- Dominant Queen




- Posts: 276
"dilute it with 3 parts water and use that as a wash.
then once it's lightened up a bit take it into dcm and wash out the acetic acid with water.
dry the dcm with a drying agent filter and evaporate the dcm should be pure enough to use."
then once it's lightened up a bit take it into dcm and wash out the acetic acid with water.
dry the dcm with a drying agent filter and evaporate the dcm should be pure enough to use."
xxxxx
- Larvae

- Posts: 8
Thanks Shake, I'll give that a go in a few minutes.Are you saying that if the oil is still yellow coloured after the wash I should dissolve it in DCM, and a portion of the dirt should be insoluble?
Shake
- Dominant Queen




- Posts: 276
i found it got very emulsional doing it like that and the water/acetic washes. kept some of the oil and caused losses.
to be honest i took it into dcm first and then washed the dcm several times with the acetic then with water then filtered - then i evaporated the dcm with a hair dryer at a distance (held with a retort stand facing out doors) to get some nice golden oil.. still not clear but i was working with too small of a qty to distill with my 24 40 kit
my acetic was ice cold too, i dont know if that helped.
if your oil is dirty, take it into the dcm first then filter the crap out before you wash, that will help prevent emulsions
i know my oil is mostly safrole though so im ok.
EDIT
now i think about it, my oil is different source to yours, and is alot more pure i think.
when i had indian oil (mixed fractions every where), when i distilled i always washed the eugenol out of my oil with 5% NaOH a few times then water. the washes will be really red. you have dirty china oil maybe you should do that.
heres what i would do. if it is not visibly dirty (like black) and you have a decent vacuum. Vac distill it all accross FIRST
take down the temps and you dont have to take it really slow either
then wash that oil with 5% NaOH till the washes are clear, then wash a couple times with water THEN
Distill that clear oil without vacuum to get a positive id of your oil. you will melt plastic keck clips here on the hot side and an oil bath will smoke you out. i wouldnt worry about a fractionating column, it isnt needed
its a real bastard of a process but it will safe all this guessing about where things ever went wrong
to be honest i took it into dcm first and then washed the dcm several times with the acetic then with water then filtered - then i evaporated the dcm with a hair dryer at a distance (held with a retort stand facing out doors) to get some nice golden oil.. still not clear but i was working with too small of a qty to distill with my 24 40 kit
my acetic was ice cold too, i dont know if that helped.
if your oil is dirty, take it into the dcm first then filter the crap out before you wash, that will help prevent emulsions
i know my oil is mostly safrole though so im ok.
EDIT
now i think about it, my oil is different source to yours, and is alot more pure i think.
when i had indian oil (mixed fractions every where), when i distilled i always washed the eugenol out of my oil with 5% NaOH a few times then water. the washes will be really red. you have dirty china oil maybe you should do that.
heres what i would do. if it is not visibly dirty (like black) and you have a decent vacuum. Vac distill it all accross FIRST
take down the temps and you dont have to take it really slow either
then wash that oil with 5% NaOH till the washes are clear, then wash a couple times with water THEN
Distill that clear oil without vacuum to get a positive id of your oil. you will melt plastic keck clips here on the hot side and an oil bath will smoke you out. i wouldnt worry about a fractionating column, it isnt needed
its a real bastard of a process but it will safe all this guessing about where things ever went wrong
xxxxx
- Larvae

- Posts: 8
I'm gonna distill maybe 250ml, I'll give the acetic acid wash a go with maybe 50ml and see how it goes/if there is much difference. I don't really want to waste anymore DCM as its getting kinda low and I want it for the iodosafrole.
Oh and just to let you know my oil didn't fail in a synthesis. I made the bromo and iodo products and they both looked to have the right properties, I haven't tried the amination yet as I had issues generating and gassing the methylamine.
My plan now is to give the well know wacker a go. Then when my Nitromethane arrives, I'll make some MeNH3.Hcl and add thst to triethanolamine in cold dry IPA. This will hopefully create a dry methylamine solution which I can add to my iodosafrole?
I would really appreciate if you let me know if you see any major problems with that. I really don't like gassing! Sorry for kinda hijacking this thread!
Oh and just to let you know my oil didn't fail in a synthesis. I made the bromo and iodo products and they both looked to have the right properties, I haven't tried the amination yet as I had issues generating and gassing the methylamine.
My plan now is to give the well know wacker a go. Then when my Nitromethane arrives, I'll make some MeNH3.Hcl and add thst to triethanolamine in cold dry IPA. This will hopefully create a dry methylamine solution which I can add to my iodosafrole?
I would really appreciate if you let me know if you see any major problems with that. I really don't like gassing! Sorry for kinda hijacking this thread!
Shake
- Dominant Queen




- Posts: 276
The iodo route is hard Pd, i say forget it for now and get benz or 02 wackers working consistanly. there is so much to learn before you can just pull off the iodo route IMO
Also palladium jons iodo route keeps in the other alkaloids and phenols in the sass oil as it helps prevent side reactions or something in the bromo synth. in the benz wacker this is not the case, they will screw up your distilling tempretures and casue you problems.
you are right, save your dcm. i have a big drum of it though lol
At least take 50 mills of your oil, do a 5% NaOH wash and if the washes are really red you know it was worth it. then wash the NaOH out of the oil with water before you distill, not doing this has turned my oil to plastic once before
Also palladium jons iodo route keeps in the other alkaloids and phenols in the sass oil as it helps prevent side reactions or something in the bromo synth. in the benz wacker this is not the case, they will screw up your distilling tempretures and casue you problems.
you are right, save your dcm. i have a big drum of it though lol
At least take 50 mills of your oil, do a 5% NaOH wash and if the washes are really red you know it was worth it. then wash the NaOH out of the oil with water before you distill, not doing this has turned my oil to plastic once before
xxxxx
- Larvae

- Posts: 8
Ok I gave the NaOH wash, and good thing I did!! It turned out pretty red and the safrole formed a cloudy emulsion on top, is that just because of water in it?
What do I do with this now, Just seperate off the bottom aqaous NaOH layer, then wash the safrole with water a few times to get rid of NaOH. Then just vacuum distill the oil as normal?
Also should I perform an acetic acid wash too or doesn the NaOH deal with most of the impurities. Thanks for all the help again, I'd be lost without everyone here.
What do I do with this now, Just seperate off the bottom aqaous NaOH layer, then wash the safrole with water a few times to get rid of NaOH. Then just vacuum distill the oil as normal?
Also should I perform an acetic acid wash too or doesn the NaOH deal with most of the impurities. Thanks for all the help again, I'd be lost without everyone here.
Methyl Man
- Subordinate Wasp



- Posts: 143
I'm into trying the washes only as an alternative to distillation... if the oil has high enough saf % as mine does, this should be a viable option. However if the washes were to render my oil a lot easier to distill, this would be good too. But if washes alone can get most of that 8% or whatever of non-saf constituents out, then that's wonderful.
Thanks for the last several posts on this guys, I only just got back to this thread this morning.
Thanks for the last several posts on this guys, I only just got back to this thread this morning.
Shake
- Dominant Queen




- Posts: 276
OK continue the washes till they are clear, discarding the red. (dont chuck down the sink yet, always keep your washes when your a noob lol)
i told you Pd your dirty china oil is a mixed bag believe me.
once the NaOH washes are clear, not red then wash your sass (not safrole yet
) with water a couple time to remover carry over NaOH
i told you Pd your dirty china oil is a mixed bag believe me.
once the NaOH washes are clear, not red then wash your sass (not safrole yet
) with water a couple time to remover carry over NaOHxxxxx
- Larvae

- Posts: 8
Ya, I have been keeping all my washes already! I know I'm stupid enough to accidently throw away my product! Should the sassafras layer be a creamy cloudy suspension?
Shake
- Dominant Queen




- Posts: 276
not really. these washes are funny, on the first wash if you wash hard and your oil is impure, the red layer can get so heavy it goes to the bottom but water is lighter than safrole the washes should stay on top.. thats why your having a hard time separating it.. chuck the sep funnel in the freezer between washes it will lighten the water layer
dingbow
- Pupae


- Posts: 84
i cant believe some of you SOB's still have access to sass 
MM (its really you?), given my experience with distillation of oils that are a mixture of many compounds of varying BP's, my guess is that your problem is excessive vacuum and that your oil contains some lower boiling compounds just as others have mentioned.
As an example, if I hold say 100mm Hg of vacuum and bring the flask to 100°C, then quickly reduce the vacuum to 30mm Hg I get some serious bumping, even with the stirrer going at full speed. For several reasons, I found that my vacuum can increase quite some time after its already stabilised and when your already at a temp that is boiling some low BP substances, when this happens I get sudden bumping even if the change in vacuum is only 30mm Hg. Dont know if you have a vacuum gauge, but if you dont you will have no idea that such small changes are occurring.
My suggestion, distill without vacuum up to 150°C, once nothing else comes over, bring temps back to 100°C and SLOWLY increase your vacuum to full, using your bleed. Then start slowly increasing your temps.

MM (its really you?), given my experience with distillation of oils that are a mixture of many compounds of varying BP's, my guess is that your problem is excessive vacuum and that your oil contains some lower boiling compounds just as others have mentioned.
As an example, if I hold say 100mm Hg of vacuum and bring the flask to 100°C, then quickly reduce the vacuum to 30mm Hg I get some serious bumping, even with the stirrer going at full speed. For several reasons, I found that my vacuum can increase quite some time after its already stabilised and when your already at a temp that is boiling some low BP substances, when this happens I get sudden bumping even if the change in vacuum is only 30mm Hg. Dont know if you have a vacuum gauge, but if you dont you will have no idea that such small changes are occurring.
My suggestion, distill without vacuum up to 150°C, once nothing else comes over, bring temps back to 100°C and SLOWLY increase your vacuum to full, using your bleed. Then start slowly increasing your temps.
xxxxx
- Larvae

- Posts: 8
Quote
heres what i would do. if it is not visibly dirty (like black) and you have a decent vacuum. Vac distill it all accross FIRST
take down the temps and you dont have to take it really slow either
then wash that oil with 5% NaOH till the washes are clear, then wash a couple times with water THEN
Distill that clear oil without vacuum to get a positive id of your oil. you will melt plastic keck clips here on the hot side and an oil bath will smoke you out. i wouldnt worry about a fractionating column, it isnt needed
Thats probably what I'll end up doing. When I vacuum distill the oil it comes across clear and colourless, but I am pretty sure the fractions aren't seperated too well. I can sometimes see distiliate forming littles swirls as it falls in. Which indicates a different refractive index and therefore a different fraction?
I'll try distill the was I have washed already now and then I might give it ago the other way around, distill first then wash as the distillation does seem to remove alot of the crap. I am just a bit worried about the atmospheric distillation as I had trouble even getting the oil bath and sass > 200c the last time I tried and then it turned really dark red/black and nothing came over. I don't wanna waste oil! Thanks again for the help!
dingbow, Yep safrole is definatly still available if you know where to look. I thought it was impossible too when I started down this path, but now I have 3kg of it and I can't complain!!
Shake
- Dominant Queen




- Posts: 276
are you using insulation palladium. alfoil wrapping all over your hotside? that is a must.
the hotside flask always goes black, as long as there is no NaOH in there your all good, the fact that you can actually SEE the hotside means you dont have it insulated well enough with alfoil
i told you, if you want to do this right, with your multi fraction china oil, you need to vac distill, do the washes then atmosphere distill, in that order. it is a bastard i know but i have had oil like yours and been through so much with it and wished i did this from the start. you will never know what you are dealing with otherwise
you have already seen multiple fractions distilling under vac, how can you ever tell which is the one..
try using a dry bath, fill your pot up with salt instead of peanut oil, see how you go. Peanut oil will smoke your whole life out lol
Quote
I had trouble even getting the oil bath and sass > 200c the last time I tried and then it turned really dark red/black and nothing came over
the hotside flask always goes black, as long as there is no NaOH in there your all good, the fact that you can actually SEE the hotside means you dont have it insulated well enough with alfoil
i told you, if you want to do this right, with your multi fraction china oil, you need to vac distill, do the washes then atmosphere distill, in that order. it is a bastard i know but i have had oil like yours and been through so much with it and wished i did this from the start. you will never know what you are dealing with otherwise
you have already seen multiple fractions distilling under vac, how can you ever tell which is the one..
try using a dry bath, fill your pot up with salt instead of peanut oil, see how you go. Peanut oil will smoke your whole life out lol
akcom
- Dominant Queen




- Posts: 430
If you want to do it big do it right. Heating mantle variac and you're all set
shroomedalice
- Guest
start your distill with out vac once all that snap crackel and pop is gone then let the
shit cool and wack the vac on.

oh post edit ....
for the origonal question at hand.
shit cool and wack the vac on.

oh post edit ....
for the origonal question at hand.
xxxxx
- Larvae

- Posts: 8
Thanks for all the help everyone. I gave those NaOH washes a go and they appear to work well. I washed twice with 5% NaOH solution, the first one was quite red and the second was a bit lighter. The layers did this weird thing where the oil formed a cloudy creamy layer on top with the NaOH layer on the bottom. But when it was left over night the layers inverted with the oil falling to the bottom.
I separated out the NaOH and washed the oil twice with dH20 before fractional vacuum distilling. The distillate came over as a clear colorless oil with no signs of any 'swirls' indicating a mix of fractions. Whatever was causing that must of been seperated in the wash. One thing I noticed is the oil turned dark very quickly during distilling, it went brown even with the oil bath only at 100c. I tested the pH of the last water wash and it was approx. 8. Is this too high?
The distillate was immediatly place in the freezer and after approx. 10min it had formed a solid mass of crystals, which makes me more confident about the purity. Unfortunatly their wasen't a great yeild of safrole (?) but I have a feeling I had already partially distilled this.
To conclude the NaOH washes seem effective at removing some impurities from Chinese Sassafras oil resulting in clear colorless crystals following vacuum distilation. For some reason the oil takes on a creamy appearance, looking somewhat like an emulsion but it seems to work out fine after distillation. I'll give the atmospheric distillation a go tomorrow to check the boiling point and confirm that this material is indeed safrole.
Thanks again for your help everyone!
I separated out the NaOH and washed the oil twice with dH20 before fractional vacuum distilling. The distillate came over as a clear colorless oil with no signs of any 'swirls' indicating a mix of fractions. Whatever was causing that must of been seperated in the wash. One thing I noticed is the oil turned dark very quickly during distilling, it went brown even with the oil bath only at 100c. I tested the pH of the last water wash and it was approx. 8. Is this too high?
The distillate was immediatly place in the freezer and after approx. 10min it had formed a solid mass of crystals, which makes me more confident about the purity. Unfortunatly their wasen't a great yeild of safrole (?) but I have a feeling I had already partially distilled this.
To conclude the NaOH washes seem effective at removing some impurities from Chinese Sassafras oil resulting in clear colorless crystals following vacuum distilation. For some reason the oil takes on a creamy appearance, looking somewhat like an emulsion but it seems to work out fine after distillation. I'll give the atmospheric distillation a go tomorrow to check the boiling point and confirm that this material is indeed safrole.
Thanks again for your help everyone!
letters
- Subordinate Wasp



- Posts: 138
looks great Pd! great work. keep us updated 
btw, how are all you guys getting your sassy oil? I thought it was really hard to get now and i havent tried for a long long time in fear of LE. not asking for sources or anything, just general thoughts and guidelines maybe?

btw, how are all you guys getting your sassy oil? I thought it was really hard to get now and i havent tried for a long long time in fear of LE. not asking for sources or anything, just general thoughts and guidelines maybe?
xxxxx
- Larvae

- Posts: 8
Are you in the US? Im not sure about importing into the US but I had pretty easy time buying sassy in direct from China, have a look at some of those Asian trading websites. It can be gotten for like $50 per kg including delivery by courier. Some of them will even relable stuff to get it out threw customs. Have a look around, its out there!
