Hey guys haven't been around for awhile just drop in occasionally to see what is going on. See you now have a mushroom board and thought I could contribute a post of mine from IV. Hope it helps. No idea if I can link or not but we will see.
This is Just a BASIC idea of what is going on. This is "Reference", and should only aid in helping you grow. Something to "refer" to etc. This leaves A LOT out about the grow itself, so I HIGHLY suggest getting more info. This too is MAINLY preference (And MY opinion), not all of this stuff is set in stone. You may find a way that works for you, while others may find a completely different way etc. This will be CONSTANTLY updated as well, so be on the lookout.
Inoculating.
This is done in a Glovebox. It is basically a clear tote with two holes in the side with gloves attached. In this tote is a "sterile" environment. Some gloveboxes just have two holes and the gloves just go on your arms. Then they just seal to the tote by using the pressure of your arms pushing on the gloves onto the plastic, no attachment necessary.
Proper Inoculation Procedure From Syringe MS or LC.
Wipe lid or inoculation port of spawn or LC with alcohol. With alcohol lamp or a bic lighter sterilize the end of the needle until it glows red. Be careful if heated too much it will melt the syringe. Once heated it should be immediately wrapped in an alcohol soaked paper towel. Then without the needle touching the air it should be inserted into the inoculation port, slightly into the substrate touching the side of the container. Then the recommended amount of MS or LC should be injected. This should be performed for EVERY jar, though some only do it once then inject multiple jars until the syringe is used up. The risk is up to preference. Most prefer 3 to 4 inoculation holes per mason jar lid. That means each hole will only receive 1/3 to 1/4 of the MS/LC to reach your total amount per jar.
Incubating.
You should keep the incubator at 78 to 84 degrees, depending on preference. 84 TOPS!!! DO NOT GO OVER THAT!!! If it hits there that is fine, but do NOT go over. 80 to 82 is money. Leaving your incubator at 80 to 82 will also allow you to fluctuate some in both directions. It should be at little to no humidity if possible. If it goes up some that is alright, as long as you get it to go back down. If it is at 40% you are still ok. It is just that the heat and the introduction of humidity invites contams. The substrate inside the incubator should be in complete darkness while it colonizes. You can open it up to look at it once in awhile to see how your substrate is comming along. Most incubators are "tub-in-tub".
Germination.
This usually takes place in an incubator and does NOT need to be done, though it does help. When injecting LC or Sub or Grains with MULTISPORE you can place the inoculated LC, grains etc. into the incubator at 86 degrees. This should only be done until germination occurs then the temp should be dropped to the 78 to 82 range!!!!!! This takes a little bit of knowledge on your part. If you see any mycelium growth drop the temp back!!!!!! AGAIN NOT NECCESARY, but allowing your spores to be at that higher temp of 86 speeds up the germination rate. Don't attempt your first time out to be safe, but that is up to you. More of an advanced technique than something to start with as a newb. IMO
Tub-in-Tub (TIT) incubator.
The water in the bottom tote should also have a few caps of bleach and some iodine to help keep it from getting stagnant. Basically One tote inside of another with water in the bottom and a fish tank heater. Again incubators should provide COMPLETE darkness.
Fruiting.
You should keep your Fruiting chamber (FC) at 68 to 76 degrees. You should try and correspond with a ten degree temperature drop from the incubator. Though if it strays that is fine. You can fruit at higher temps. As high as 80 degrees will still work. But it is better to get it lower than that. It should be at 95 to 100% humidity and have the addition of light. Also you will now introduce lots of Fresh air. The introduction of the lower temp., added humidity, light and Lots of Fresh air is what helps make your pins form. Also 100% colonization and the mycelium running out of food is the Number 1 trigger for pinning.
And of course the FC could be at a lower temp than 68, but the growth will be slower as well. FC's usually contain perlite to help keep the humidity up. But there are more advanced setups using humidifiers to moderate your humidity. This makes it easier on the grower as they don't need to pay as much attention during the fruiting stage and eliminates the use of a spray bottle. There are many different setups for FC's. It is best to look them up and determine for oneself on what they prefer to use.
Terrarium.
Can also be used for fruiting. Actually it is a "real" FC. It incorporates a drip guard. The drip guard takes the condensated water and runs it to the sides of the FC and down to the bottom. This stops water from dripping on the shrooms.
Light.
Any light will do. Almost any amount as well. Though it is suggested to do 12 on 12 off. But as little as 5 hours a day on is enough. Even less seems to work. But as long as it lights up the FC it is enough. Regular 40 watt incandescent bulbs, those twist halogen bulbs, even christmas lights work. The blue spectrum is what you want. NO reds if you can help it. The shroom will still grow with the wrong kind of light, they will just be all twisted and such.
Fanning.
To manually fan is to get the stale air out of the FC and fresh air into it. This is called a Fresh air exchange. (FAE) If your FC has two nice sized holes stuffed with polyfill at substrate level you can skip this step if you want. Or if it has an air pump for FAE. But it should be done at least 3 times a day. Once in the morning, once when you get home and once when you go to bed. You can pump all the FAE into the FC that you want. The catch is that you have to keep your humidity up. If the humidity starts to fall then back off the FAE. But if you can keep it at 95% and fan all day, DO IT!!!!! They love FAE during the fruiting stage. Picture a guy standing over the FC with the lid cracked holding a pizza pan and waving it back and forth to get fresh air into the FC and the stale air out. Just an example but can be used. Many things serve this purpose.
Gas Exchange.
This is like FAE but for the incubator. This is only done every 3 to 5 days. During colonization the mycelium likes a little CO2 buildup. But too much and you can stall them or in some cases cause death. So this doesn't need to be done everyday or anything. Just once every 3 to 5 days to get the CO2 out. CO2 is HEAVY!!! So make sure you get it out of there.
Dunking.
Dunking is done after 100% colonization OR after the first flush. The substrate is placed into a container filled with water. Ziplock or Tupperware, or in the tray they are in. Then they sit and soak for 18 to 24 hours. Excess is allowed to drip off. Then they can be placed in the FC. Dunking re-hydrates the cakes after colonizing. It is debated on what temp. it should be dunked at. Some say to dunk them at room temp. others say do a cold shock. A cold shock is to dunk your subs in the fridge. But room temp seems to be the #1 choice. I personally think a happy medium should be there. I dunk at about 55 degrees. Not as cold as a fridge, but certainly colder than the temp. in the FC. Again preference. But I suggest doing the room temp dunk. Cold shock seems to slow the growth down considerably. All are safe to do, again preference. All aborts, mushies and big pins must be picked off. Small pins can be dunked, but there is a small risk. So that is up to you. I dunk with small pins, others don't risk it.
Also when dunking BRF cakes. You want to get as much of the top layer of verm off that you can. Even rinsing it off isn't a bad idea, once you get the most of it off. This is the contam barrier. You do NOT want this on there when you dunk!!!!!! There could be all sorts of contams in there. Then they will be sitting in it for X amount of hours...... Yea get it off. OR contam may happen. A very good chance of contam, IMO.
Rolling.
When you dunk your cakes you will roll. You do not roll for anything other than cakes. After the dunk you will roll them in dry vermiculite. Then when they are placed in the FC you should mist the verm till it is field capacity. Putting it on dry helps it stick. Then once at field capacity stop. You don't want to be spraying you cakes. As little as possible. They were just dunked for 18 to 24 hours and don't need anymore water. Just mist the verm. At this point it is for a contamination barrier, not for added moisture.
Vermiculite.
To be safe vermiculite should be sterilized before using. Some do and some don't. I do. But most claim success not doing it. To sterilize you can pressure cook (PC) it. OR you can bake it on a cookie sheet in an oven at 300 degrees for 30 minutes to an hour.
Perlite.
This is used for humidity. Placed in bottom of your FC this will provide you with about 70 to 80% humidity you will need to mist with spray bottle to get you to 90+%. This can NOT be substituted with vermiculite or Vice Versa. THEY are NOT the same thing!!! This is also Hydroton and L.E.C.A. Perlite is the fine grade L.E.C.A is the medium grade and hydroton are large balls of it and it all works. (NOTE: Perlite is NOT the exact same thing as L.E.C.A or Hydroton, but they all serve the same purpose of providing Humidity in the FC.) Perlite can be used over and over, though I suggest if you do plan to reuse perlite I would go with the Hydroton or L.E.C.A. Light Expanded Clay Arrogate.
Pressure cooker.
A pressure cooker is your best friend. It should be capable of 15 p.s.i.
Get the largest you can afford. You can get by with less but it is NOT recommended.
Sterilizing.
This is done in the PC and kills off all contams in the substrate, LC or spawn or what have you.
Also can be used for casings.
Pasteurizing.
This is NOT done in the PC. It is done with hot water. It kills off the bad things and keeps the good stuff. This is used for poo and straw, coir and for casings. The temperature range is 60°C to 80°C(140°F-175°F).
Shroomin024 on Coir: Shroomin' from start to finish
Reckless Straw Log: Reckless Straw Logs
Casings.
These should be at field capacity. They are spread on a bulk sub after it is 100% colonized. A simple casing is a 50/50+. That is 50 peat 50 verm and a little lime is the +. It should be spread on at ½" thick. Then patched at about ¼". Verm also serves as a casing layer, but it is very poor. AKA Rez Effect. The 50/50+ is simple and really does the trick. Though there are better ones. These provide humidity and moisture to help pins form and provide an even pin set.
Shroomin024 on Casings: Shroomin' from start to finish
Humidity.
This can be achieved many ways. You can set up a humidifier is one. You can put perlite in the bottom of your tote at field capacity as well to create humidity. NOT vermiculite, perlite. You will need to mist when using perlite to get it over 80%. This is done by spraying the sides of the FC with a spray bottle, this creates extra humidity to get it to 95% .
Field capacity.
This is taking a material and soaking it to the point that it can't hold anymore but isn't dripping water. You should give it a little squeeze to get that little bit of excess out.
Misting the casing layer.
You should mist your casing layer or the outside of your cakes to help them form pins. Once a day is sufficient. Not a lot by any means. Just a light misting. Once pins form stop misting or they may abort. Not always, but a better chance. Done in the FC. You can add some H2O2 to the water you are misting with to help stop cobweb from forming. It does nothing against any other contams. But it isn't a bad idea by any means.
Colonizing.
Once you think your jars are 100% colonized wait 3 days to 1 week before you dunk and place into the FC. 1 week is highly suggested for a newbie grower. Just to be on the safe side. You will get better at judging the extra time needed once you have done some grows. This is done to ensure that the middle of the grain you are using is colonized as well. The middle takes it's sweet time.
Picking.
This is normally done just when the mushrooms veil breaks. It can be done at anytime, though it is suggested to do it just after the veil breaks. If you let them go longer than they will drop spores and invite contams and things. You can pick a little sooner if you want too. To pick (wear gloves) reach down as far down on the stem as you can, almost reaching into the substrate a little. Then in one motion, pinch, twist and pull.
Drying.
This can be done a number of ways. The mushrooms should be cracker dry. They should crumble in your hand. If they bend instead of SNAP they aren't dry enough. You should fan dry them first. 18 to 24 hours. Place them on a screen if you can. Then just point a fan on them. Then you will need to get the last bit of moisture out to make them cracker dry. To do this, take a mason jar and put your semi-dried mushrooms in. Then take some desiccant, and wrap it is paper towels. Nice sized balls secured with rubberbands. Throw 2 or three of those in the jar and screw on the lid.
OR you can make a desiccant chamber. Simply take a tupperware container with lid. Put desiccant in the bottom, a nice little layer. Then cut a screen so that it sits just above the desiccant. Then place your mushies on the screen and close the lid. The smaller the tupperware container, that can accomodate your shrooms, the better it will work. Make sure that the screen doesn't sit in the desiccant. You do not want to eat it!!!!!! People also have good luck with food dehydrators as long as the temperature doesn't go over 95!!!
Now it is said that you can go to 150 in the dehydrator and have them cracker dry VERY QUICKLY and no potency loss is detected. Either way the dehydrator seems to be the way to go.
Desiccant.
This is a powder or crystal that soaks up moisture. Used in the drying process to get out the last bit of moisture after fan drying. Common desiccants are:
Silica gel: Found in new shoes and things like jerky. Says "Do Not Eat". You can buy it. I don't suggest using used...
Most common one used is Calcium Chloride. Also known as Damp Rid and Quick dry. Pretty cheap and can be found in a hardware store. WORKS GREAT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Spore Print.
This is spores on a piece of aluminum foil or a note card or glass. This is done by taking a fresh cap of a mushroom that's veil has just broken and placing on the notecard or aluminum foil in an area with no wind or breeze. The spores fall onto the card and this makes a print. This can be used to turn into multispore solution. Best to place a glass or jar over the cap to help prevent any breeze, so that way the spores don't blow away. If stored in a cool dark place with low humidity it should store for many years.
Multispore solution.
This is spores suspended in a water solution inside a syringe. These can be used to directly inoculate substrates and liquid culture. These are clear to the eye with maybe a few black "spores" floating around. In actuality they are TONS of spores stuck together and should be shaken to break them up. A GOOD syringe looks damn clear to the naked eye. THis is made by taking a piece of a print and sucking it up into a syringe with distilled water.
Liquid culture (LC).
This is a solution of sugar and water (basically). Most generally corn syrup (karo is the name brand that a lot use). But there are many things that work. It should be LIGHT corn syrup. (NOT the dark stuff!!!) If it has vanilla in it it is ok. This is injected with multispore solution or a piece of mushroom. This grows mycelium in the jar for you to inoculate substrates, whatever you want. The big benefit of LC is that it is already growing. Not only does this cut down inoculation time to harvest, it greatly increases success. Because it is already growing contam has a hard time setting in. It simply doesn't have time. Not to say it can't happen, but much lower chance. HIGHLY SUGGESTED!!!!!!!!!!! It requires a PC capable of 15psi to make. A few LCs you don't have to PC. I suggest using the karo tek over the potato dextrose tek, at least for newbs. Mostly because adv. and newbs alike have a hard time with the potato dextrose tek. Try the potato after you have a couple karo LC's under your belt. OR try it along the way.
Krazy's LC: Krazy's Super EZ Liquid Culture and self healing Jar lid TEK
Bill's LC: Bill's Spaghetti LC Tek
Hacxor's LC: How To Make Lc Like The Pros **HaX**
Shroomin024 on LC: Shroomin' from start to finish
Unofficial J-Shroom Potato LC: Potato dextrose LC
Spawn.
This is WBS or RYE or Popcorn or sometimes PF jars, that are 100% colonized and then used G2G to colonize more jars or substrates. Pf jars should stay cakes IMHO. They are shitty spawn, but it will work. SO use it if you really want, but other things suite this purpose much better.
Hacxor's Grain Spawn Bags: Grain Spawn Bags Like Pros **HaX**
Hacxor on Rye: Rye Quart Jar Prep **HaX**
skatterman's Popcorn spawn: Easy Popcorn Tek
Sp33d's PF style BRF spawn:Noob friendly sp33d process
Shroomin024 on WBS spawn: Shroomin' from start to finish
MyWhat on WBS: Mywhats WBS Tek
PF tek: Basic PF tek
Substrate.
This is usually coir or poo or straw or a combination of them. Usually you use spawn to colonize your bulk subs. This is where your mushrooms will get most of their nutrients and provide you with more surface area and thus more mushrooms. 99% of colonized bulk subs are cased.
Shroomin024 on Coir: Shroomin' from start to finish
Reckless Straw Log: Reckless Straw Logs
PF tek: Basic PF tek
ThinQ on Panaeolus: ThinQ's Panaeolus Tek
Abort.
A mushroom that for some reason ceases to grow and never reaches maturity. The head turns black and it just stops growing. These are said to be more potent that a normal mushroom.
Agar.
An extract from a seaweed used to solidify media. The agar used in mushrooms cultivation is usually available in powder form. This is used for isolation and things of that sort. Anyone serious about this hobby will start working with agar sooner or later.
Drjugglz Agar Prep: simple agar by DrJ
Hacxor's Agar Preperation: Cloning Tek With Agar **HaX**
Biological efficiency.
The definition of biological efficiency (BE) in mushroom cultivation is:
1 pound fresh mushrooms from 1 pound dry Substrate is 100% biological efficiency.
This definition was first used by the Agaricus industry to be able to compare different grow setups and Substrate compositions.
Note that this is not a true efficiency in thermodynamical terms!
The BE of Psilocybe cubensis is easily somewhere in the range of 200%.
Clone.
A population of individuals all derived asexually from the same single parent. In mushroom cultivation placing a piece of mushroom tissue on Agar medium in order to obtain growing Mycelium is called cloning. Also can go straight to LC with it. Best to use a piece of tissue from inside the stem or cap of the mushroom to lower chances of contam and raise chances of success.
Hacxor's Cloning Tek: Cloning Tek With Agar **HaX**
Grain to grain transfer.
Inoculation of grain by already colonized grain. G2G Taking 100% colonized RYE or WBS and mixing with something else you wish to colonize.
Overlay.
A dense mycelial growth that covers the Casing surface and shows little or no inclination to form pinheads. Overlay directly results from a dry Casing, high levels of Carbon Dioxide and/or low humidity.
Ryegrass.
Seeds used as Substrate for P. mexicana and P. tampanensis. Or any stone forming species.
Bruising.
This occurs when the mycelium or mushrooms are handled roughly. The normally WHITE mycelium will turn blueish greenish color. OFTEN mistaken for contam. This discoloration can also occur on mushrooms. Q-Tip Test will tell the truth on whether you have a contam or it is just bruising.
Q-Tip Test.
This is done when you want to see if you have a contam or if it is just bruising. Just take a Q-Tip (you can add water to the tip if you want) And rub the spot that you think may be contamed. IF what you are rubbing comes off onto the Q-Tip then you have a contam. If nothing is transferred to the Q-tip it is bruising. (NOW most cube spores are purple, but other types of shrooms can have red or black etc colored spores. These TOO will wipe off onto the Q-tip. This is NOT contam, so this is where the Q-Tip test can fail. BUT if you have done proper research you should know the difference between mold or spores. This is probably the most confusing part of the Q-Tip test for newbs. Try not to confuse spores with mold if you can. If you don't know post a picture and we will help you out.)
Shaking.
When you shake your jars, (anything other than BRF) you will shake at 30 to 40% OR 25 to 30%. That is IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ONCE!!!!!!!! That is ALL!!!!!!!!!
NEVER shake again!!!!!!!!!!!!!! If you do, you risk stalling the mycellium growth and may not end up with ANYTHING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Just that ONE time. NOT before, OR AFTER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
ONLY do it ONCE at 25 to 40% colonized, you have to judge that or post a pic etc. Shake the ever living shit out of them to mix it up. ONLY do this ONE TIME HOWEVER. More than this and you risk stalling, sometimes permanently. In truth shaking DOES NOT need to happen. It will only speed up the process by about 4 days or so. Better to not shake at all in reality. But if done only do it ONE time at 25 to 40% colonized. Then you have to wait it out for 100% and an extra week. NO MORE SHAKING!!! This is just MY opinion on it.
Good rules of thumb.
1 part spawn will colonize 4 parts bulk substrate.
Example: 1 quart of colonized WBS will colonize 1 gallon (4 quarts) of substrate.
1 pint would colonize 2 quarts of substrate.
One 1/2 pint would colonize 1 quart of substrate.
Inoculation Amounts for BRF and Grains
MS: 1cc for 1/2 pint. 1cc-3cc for 1 quart. 3-8cc for 1 gallon.
LC: 1cc for 1/2 pint. 1-5cc for 1 quart. 1-10cc for 1 gallon.
(with LC you can use more than specified. With MS you risk a chance of too much moisture in the jars, which usually cause baccillius AKA. sore rot. But can cause many other molds as well. With LC the mycelium is already growing. This means that other molds don't have a good chance of setting in before the mycelium takes hold. Regardless it only takes a minimum of 1cc of LC OR MS for ANY size jar. Only effects the amount of time and chances of mold forming.)
For inoculating LC with MS you should use 1-3cc per quart. 2-4cc per half gallon 3-6cc per gallon. Though I think that is FAR TOO MUCH. Again opinion.
Personal Preference.
MS: 1cc for 1/2 pint. 1cc-1.5cc for 1 quart. 2-3cc for 1 gallon.
LC: 1cc for 1/2 pint. 2-3cc for 1 quart. 4-6cc for 1 gallon.
For inoculating LC with MS 1cc will suffice for almost any amount. But for a gallon I use 3cc of MS. Half gallon gets 2cc. Quart gets 1cc.
When inoculating substrates. with multispore solution.
BRF: You should not shake the jar before or after inoculation.
Also not when it is 30 or 40% colonized. It doesn't shake well anyways.
WBS: Fluff up before you inoculate not after.
Shake at 30 to 40% colonized to help speed up the colonization rate.
RYE (whole grains): Fluff up before inoculation and after. (Do NOT fluff it up after if you are a newb. Both ways work)
Shake at 30 to 40% as well.
When inoculating subs. with LC
BRF: Don't shake before or after
Not when it is 30 to 40%
WBS:Fluff up before and after inoculation
Shake at 30 to 40%
Rye (whole grains): Fluff up before and after inoculation
Shake at 30 to 40%
If there is mold present before it fruits, get it out of there!!!
Wipe everything down with alcohol and hope for the best.
Condensation inside the jars is normal. You only have to worry if there is a layer of water in the bottom of the jar. It doesn't necessarily mean disaster. It just invites contams to come and grow. Therefore if you have a layer of water in the bottom of the jar watch it like a hawk. Just make sure contams don't set in. IF it is a small amount of water you are fine. If it is a 1/4" deep or something then that is BAD. High chance of contam. Again doesn't mean contam, just a higher chance of it.
Use 70 something % alcohol not 90 something % alcohol. 80% is money.
Use oust to clean the air and surfaces around you as well as using your alcohol.
If inoculating without a glovebox where a mask and/ at least rinse your mouth with listerine.
When in doubt, throw it out!!!
Be quick and sterile.
Flame sterilize out side of the glovebox for more safety. THere is a chance of a small explosion with all the alcohol and oust floating around in there.
Bad habits that will get you by.
IF your substrate has fruited or formed pins and molds appear you may be alright.
If it is cobweb it can be fought throughout the growing process with H2O2 (hydrogen peroxide). Fruiting or incubating and in between. (Cobweb is not abandoned spider webs. It is a mold caused from lack of FAE) If it is the green meanie (trich) you can wash off the fruits really good and ingest. Make sure there is no mold present you don't want to eat it. This is risky, so it is your choice whether or not to do it. This can only be done with cobweb and the green meanie. ANY other contam chuck it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Don't mess around.
This should only be done if the fruits have already formed and contams hit. If you see contams prior get it the HELL out of there!!!! THIS IS VERY RISKY TO DO. I do NOT suggest it unless you can positively identify the green meanie from a hundred other green molds!!!!!! NOT SUGGESTED!!!
If your cakes get way too dry before they go to dunk or after the PC, you can inject sterile water into them. You are not trying to soak it as you would a dunk. You are just trying to get it to the dunk. Works, but again risk involved.
Things that I do.
General Maintenance.
Throughout the grow I take everything out for a second and soak up any pools of water and wipe everything down with alcohol. The tins the jars the incubator or FC themselves. This is what I call "general maintenance". You cannot just leave these things to run. They should be maintained. IMO of course. Also changing the water in the incubator if it has been there for quite sometime.
Keeping the incubator hot because of cold temps.
Add another fish tank heater. Wrap in a blanket or plastic wrap. Place on top of refrigerator or in a high cupboard.
Keeping the FC cool because of high temps.
I use an ice pack or two. I place them in there to get my temps back down. You have to watch it!!!! And watch for condensation and switch it out. It takes up space too.
You could also use a tub-in-tub incubator with the heater off and fill the bottom with ice water. Just don't let it get too cold. Again watch it. But you have to switch it all out no matter what. Sooner or later.... Also make sure you set your temp gauge lower in the FC if you put ice in the lower tub. The bottom of the tote will very cold. (obviously) SO you have to take that into consideration. The perlite in the bottom should help keep the jars from getting too cold. But cold air sits low and hot air rises. Therefore your jars may be really cold this way, slowing growth. So try to get them up in the air etc. Just make sure they aren't sitting right on the bottom at 35 degrees. Try to keep them where they should be. Just want you to be aware of these things.....
Keeping the incubator/ FC warm in EXTREME COLD.
The BEST way to keep the incubator/ FC warm. First use the incubator for the FC. When using the incubator and the proper temp can still not be achieved you should place your incubator in an OVERsized tote that will acompany the incubator and leave MUCH space. Then take a Bunch of fiberglass insulation and stuff it, UNDERNEATH your incubator, in the bottom of the oversized tote. Then place incubator inside ON TOP of the insulation. Then stuff the insulation around the sides and finally on top, sealing the oversized tote with it's lid. Then make sure the incubator is a good 6 to 12 inches off the floor. This will work for a shed or the like. ANYWHERE it may drop below freezing etc. I have done it. It may take a little bit to get it exactly right, but it will work with slight tweaking here and there. (This can be loose insulation or with the paper backing. If the paper backing is used the fiberglass should be torn off, and the paper discarded.) Works the best thus far. You may need to add an extra fish tank heater and adjust for your needs. AND you MUST watch the outside temps as they change NOT ONLY day to day, but also as the day itself goes on.......
A very basic grow and what you are looking at. (using BRF jars, so simple)
Take you jars and inoculate them. Then place in the incubator. When fully colonized you will dunk and roll. Then place into the FC. Then pick your shrooms and dry. Then re dunk and roll and place in FC. Pick and dry. Repeat till no more mushies or contam sets in. OF course there is more to all these steps. Hopefully my post helps with that a little. But this is so basic. It just give you the idea of what is happening. Not what is actually going on in the incubator and the FC, not to mention the steps taken for each procedure. SO RESEARCH!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Assorted links:
How to use a 5 pound compost bag correctly: Compost bag knock up **HaX**
Definitions of Mycological Terms: Definitions
Common Abbreviations: Common Abbreviations
This is Just a BASIC idea of what is going on. This is "Reference", and should only aid in helping you grow. Something to "refer" to etc. This leaves A LOT out about the grow itself, so I HIGHLY suggest getting more info. This too is MAINLY preference (And MY opinion), not all of this stuff is set in stone. You may find a way that works for you, while others may find a completely different way etc. This will be CONSTANTLY updated as well, so be on the lookout.
Inoculating.
This is done in a Glovebox. It is basically a clear tote with two holes in the side with gloves attached. In this tote is a "sterile" environment. Some gloveboxes just have two holes and the gloves just go on your arms. Then they just seal to the tote by using the pressure of your arms pushing on the gloves onto the plastic, no attachment necessary.
Proper Inoculation Procedure From Syringe MS or LC.
Wipe lid or inoculation port of spawn or LC with alcohol. With alcohol lamp or a bic lighter sterilize the end of the needle until it glows red. Be careful if heated too much it will melt the syringe. Once heated it should be immediately wrapped in an alcohol soaked paper towel. Then without the needle touching the air it should be inserted into the inoculation port, slightly into the substrate touching the side of the container. Then the recommended amount of MS or LC should be injected. This should be performed for EVERY jar, though some only do it once then inject multiple jars until the syringe is used up. The risk is up to preference. Most prefer 3 to 4 inoculation holes per mason jar lid. That means each hole will only receive 1/3 to 1/4 of the MS/LC to reach your total amount per jar.
Incubating.
You should keep the incubator at 78 to 84 degrees, depending on preference. 84 TOPS!!! DO NOT GO OVER THAT!!! If it hits there that is fine, but do NOT go over. 80 to 82 is money. Leaving your incubator at 80 to 82 will also allow you to fluctuate some in both directions. It should be at little to no humidity if possible. If it goes up some that is alright, as long as you get it to go back down. If it is at 40% you are still ok. It is just that the heat and the introduction of humidity invites contams. The substrate inside the incubator should be in complete darkness while it colonizes. You can open it up to look at it once in awhile to see how your substrate is comming along. Most incubators are "tub-in-tub".
Germination.
This usually takes place in an incubator and does NOT need to be done, though it does help. When injecting LC or Sub or Grains with MULTISPORE you can place the inoculated LC, grains etc. into the incubator at 86 degrees. This should only be done until germination occurs then the temp should be dropped to the 78 to 82 range!!!!!! This takes a little bit of knowledge on your part. If you see any mycelium growth drop the temp back!!!!!! AGAIN NOT NECCESARY, but allowing your spores to be at that higher temp of 86 speeds up the germination rate. Don't attempt your first time out to be safe, but that is up to you. More of an advanced technique than something to start with as a newb. IMO
Tub-in-Tub (TIT) incubator.
The water in the bottom tote should also have a few caps of bleach and some iodine to help keep it from getting stagnant. Basically One tote inside of another with water in the bottom and a fish tank heater. Again incubators should provide COMPLETE darkness.
Fruiting.
You should keep your Fruiting chamber (FC) at 68 to 76 degrees. You should try and correspond with a ten degree temperature drop from the incubator. Though if it strays that is fine. You can fruit at higher temps. As high as 80 degrees will still work. But it is better to get it lower than that. It should be at 95 to 100% humidity and have the addition of light. Also you will now introduce lots of Fresh air. The introduction of the lower temp., added humidity, light and Lots of Fresh air is what helps make your pins form. Also 100% colonization and the mycelium running out of food is the Number 1 trigger for pinning.
And of course the FC could be at a lower temp than 68, but the growth will be slower as well. FC's usually contain perlite to help keep the humidity up. But there are more advanced setups using humidifiers to moderate your humidity. This makes it easier on the grower as they don't need to pay as much attention during the fruiting stage and eliminates the use of a spray bottle. There are many different setups for FC's. It is best to look them up and determine for oneself on what they prefer to use.
Terrarium.
Can also be used for fruiting. Actually it is a "real" FC. It incorporates a drip guard. The drip guard takes the condensated water and runs it to the sides of the FC and down to the bottom. This stops water from dripping on the shrooms.
Light.
Any light will do. Almost any amount as well. Though it is suggested to do 12 on 12 off. But as little as 5 hours a day on is enough. Even less seems to work. But as long as it lights up the FC it is enough. Regular 40 watt incandescent bulbs, those twist halogen bulbs, even christmas lights work. The blue spectrum is what you want. NO reds if you can help it. The shroom will still grow with the wrong kind of light, they will just be all twisted and such.
Fanning.
To manually fan is to get the stale air out of the FC and fresh air into it. This is called a Fresh air exchange. (FAE) If your FC has two nice sized holes stuffed with polyfill at substrate level you can skip this step if you want. Or if it has an air pump for FAE. But it should be done at least 3 times a day. Once in the morning, once when you get home and once when you go to bed. You can pump all the FAE into the FC that you want. The catch is that you have to keep your humidity up. If the humidity starts to fall then back off the FAE. But if you can keep it at 95% and fan all day, DO IT!!!!! They love FAE during the fruiting stage. Picture a guy standing over the FC with the lid cracked holding a pizza pan and waving it back and forth to get fresh air into the FC and the stale air out. Just an example but can be used. Many things serve this purpose.
Gas Exchange.
This is like FAE but for the incubator. This is only done every 3 to 5 days. During colonization the mycelium likes a little CO2 buildup. But too much and you can stall them or in some cases cause death. So this doesn't need to be done everyday or anything. Just once every 3 to 5 days to get the CO2 out. CO2 is HEAVY!!! So make sure you get it out of there.
Dunking.
Dunking is done after 100% colonization OR after the first flush. The substrate is placed into a container filled with water. Ziplock or Tupperware, or in the tray they are in. Then they sit and soak for 18 to 24 hours. Excess is allowed to drip off. Then they can be placed in the FC. Dunking re-hydrates the cakes after colonizing. It is debated on what temp. it should be dunked at. Some say to dunk them at room temp. others say do a cold shock. A cold shock is to dunk your subs in the fridge. But room temp seems to be the #1 choice. I personally think a happy medium should be there. I dunk at about 55 degrees. Not as cold as a fridge, but certainly colder than the temp. in the FC. Again preference. But I suggest doing the room temp dunk. Cold shock seems to slow the growth down considerably. All are safe to do, again preference. All aborts, mushies and big pins must be picked off. Small pins can be dunked, but there is a small risk. So that is up to you. I dunk with small pins, others don't risk it.
Also when dunking BRF cakes. You want to get as much of the top layer of verm off that you can. Even rinsing it off isn't a bad idea, once you get the most of it off. This is the contam barrier. You do NOT want this on there when you dunk!!!!!! There could be all sorts of contams in there. Then they will be sitting in it for X amount of hours...... Yea get it off. OR contam may happen. A very good chance of contam, IMO.
Rolling.
When you dunk your cakes you will roll. You do not roll for anything other than cakes. After the dunk you will roll them in dry vermiculite. Then when they are placed in the FC you should mist the verm till it is field capacity. Putting it on dry helps it stick. Then once at field capacity stop. You don't want to be spraying you cakes. As little as possible. They were just dunked for 18 to 24 hours and don't need anymore water. Just mist the verm. At this point it is for a contamination barrier, not for added moisture.
Vermiculite.
To be safe vermiculite should be sterilized before using. Some do and some don't. I do. But most claim success not doing it. To sterilize you can pressure cook (PC) it. OR you can bake it on a cookie sheet in an oven at 300 degrees for 30 minutes to an hour.
Perlite.
This is used for humidity. Placed in bottom of your FC this will provide you with about 70 to 80% humidity you will need to mist with spray bottle to get you to 90+%. This can NOT be substituted with vermiculite or Vice Versa. THEY are NOT the same thing!!! This is also Hydroton and L.E.C.A. Perlite is the fine grade L.E.C.A is the medium grade and hydroton are large balls of it and it all works. (NOTE: Perlite is NOT the exact same thing as L.E.C.A or Hydroton, but they all serve the same purpose of providing Humidity in the FC.) Perlite can be used over and over, though I suggest if you do plan to reuse perlite I would go with the Hydroton or L.E.C.A. Light Expanded Clay Arrogate.
Pressure cooker.
A pressure cooker is your best friend. It should be capable of 15 p.s.i.
Get the largest you can afford. You can get by with less but it is NOT recommended.
Sterilizing.
This is done in the PC and kills off all contams in the substrate, LC or spawn or what have you.
Also can be used for casings.
Pasteurizing.
This is NOT done in the PC. It is done with hot water. It kills off the bad things and keeps the good stuff. This is used for poo and straw, coir and for casings. The temperature range is 60°C to 80°C(140°F-175°F).
Shroomin024 on Coir: Shroomin' from start to finish
Reckless Straw Log: Reckless Straw Logs
Casings.
These should be at field capacity. They are spread on a bulk sub after it is 100% colonized. A simple casing is a 50/50+. That is 50 peat 50 verm and a little lime is the +. It should be spread on at ½" thick. Then patched at about ¼". Verm also serves as a casing layer, but it is very poor. AKA Rez Effect. The 50/50+ is simple and really does the trick. Though there are better ones. These provide humidity and moisture to help pins form and provide an even pin set.
Shroomin024 on Casings: Shroomin' from start to finish
Humidity.
This can be achieved many ways. You can set up a humidifier is one. You can put perlite in the bottom of your tote at field capacity as well to create humidity. NOT vermiculite, perlite. You will need to mist when using perlite to get it over 80%. This is done by spraying the sides of the FC with a spray bottle, this creates extra humidity to get it to 95% .
Field capacity.
This is taking a material and soaking it to the point that it can't hold anymore but isn't dripping water. You should give it a little squeeze to get that little bit of excess out.
Misting the casing layer.
You should mist your casing layer or the outside of your cakes to help them form pins. Once a day is sufficient. Not a lot by any means. Just a light misting. Once pins form stop misting or they may abort. Not always, but a better chance. Done in the FC. You can add some H2O2 to the water you are misting with to help stop cobweb from forming. It does nothing against any other contams. But it isn't a bad idea by any means.
Colonizing.
Once you think your jars are 100% colonized wait 3 days to 1 week before you dunk and place into the FC. 1 week is highly suggested for a newbie grower. Just to be on the safe side. You will get better at judging the extra time needed once you have done some grows. This is done to ensure that the middle of the grain you are using is colonized as well. The middle takes it's sweet time.
Picking.
This is normally done just when the mushrooms veil breaks. It can be done at anytime, though it is suggested to do it just after the veil breaks. If you let them go longer than they will drop spores and invite contams and things. You can pick a little sooner if you want too. To pick (wear gloves) reach down as far down on the stem as you can, almost reaching into the substrate a little. Then in one motion, pinch, twist and pull.
Drying.
This can be done a number of ways. The mushrooms should be cracker dry. They should crumble in your hand. If they bend instead of SNAP they aren't dry enough. You should fan dry them first. 18 to 24 hours. Place them on a screen if you can. Then just point a fan on them. Then you will need to get the last bit of moisture out to make them cracker dry. To do this, take a mason jar and put your semi-dried mushrooms in. Then take some desiccant, and wrap it is paper towels. Nice sized balls secured with rubberbands. Throw 2 or three of those in the jar and screw on the lid.
OR you can make a desiccant chamber. Simply take a tupperware container with lid. Put desiccant in the bottom, a nice little layer. Then cut a screen so that it sits just above the desiccant. Then place your mushies on the screen and close the lid. The smaller the tupperware container, that can accomodate your shrooms, the better it will work. Make sure that the screen doesn't sit in the desiccant. You do not want to eat it!!!!!! People also have good luck with food dehydrators as long as the temperature doesn't go over 95!!!
Now it is said that you can go to 150 in the dehydrator and have them cracker dry VERY QUICKLY and no potency loss is detected. Either way the dehydrator seems to be the way to go.
Desiccant.
This is a powder or crystal that soaks up moisture. Used in the drying process to get out the last bit of moisture after fan drying. Common desiccants are:
Silica gel: Found in new shoes and things like jerky. Says "Do Not Eat". You can buy it. I don't suggest using used...
Most common one used is Calcium Chloride. Also known as Damp Rid and Quick dry. Pretty cheap and can be found in a hardware store. WORKS GREAT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Spore Print.
This is spores on a piece of aluminum foil or a note card or glass. This is done by taking a fresh cap of a mushroom that's veil has just broken and placing on the notecard or aluminum foil in an area with no wind or breeze. The spores fall onto the card and this makes a print. This can be used to turn into multispore solution. Best to place a glass or jar over the cap to help prevent any breeze, so that way the spores don't blow away. If stored in a cool dark place with low humidity it should store for many years.
Multispore solution.
This is spores suspended in a water solution inside a syringe. These can be used to directly inoculate substrates and liquid culture. These are clear to the eye with maybe a few black "spores" floating around. In actuality they are TONS of spores stuck together and should be shaken to break them up. A GOOD syringe looks damn clear to the naked eye. THis is made by taking a piece of a print and sucking it up into a syringe with distilled water.
Liquid culture (LC).
This is a solution of sugar and water (basically). Most generally corn syrup (karo is the name brand that a lot use). But there are many things that work. It should be LIGHT corn syrup. (NOT the dark stuff!!!) If it has vanilla in it it is ok. This is injected with multispore solution or a piece of mushroom. This grows mycelium in the jar for you to inoculate substrates, whatever you want. The big benefit of LC is that it is already growing. Not only does this cut down inoculation time to harvest, it greatly increases success. Because it is already growing contam has a hard time setting in. It simply doesn't have time. Not to say it can't happen, but much lower chance. HIGHLY SUGGESTED!!!!!!!!!!! It requires a PC capable of 15psi to make. A few LCs you don't have to PC. I suggest using the karo tek over the potato dextrose tek, at least for newbs. Mostly because adv. and newbs alike have a hard time with the potato dextrose tek. Try the potato after you have a couple karo LC's under your belt. OR try it along the way.
Krazy's LC: Krazy's Super EZ Liquid Culture and self healing Jar lid TEK
Bill's LC: Bill's Spaghetti LC Tek
Hacxor's LC: How To Make Lc Like The Pros **HaX**
Shroomin024 on LC: Shroomin' from start to finish
Unofficial J-Shroom Potato LC: Potato dextrose LC
Spawn.
This is WBS or RYE or Popcorn or sometimes PF jars, that are 100% colonized and then used G2G to colonize more jars or substrates. Pf jars should stay cakes IMHO. They are shitty spawn, but it will work. SO use it if you really want, but other things suite this purpose much better.
Hacxor's Grain Spawn Bags: Grain Spawn Bags Like Pros **HaX**
Hacxor on Rye: Rye Quart Jar Prep **HaX**
skatterman's Popcorn spawn: Easy Popcorn Tek
Sp33d's PF style BRF spawn:Noob friendly sp33d process
Shroomin024 on WBS spawn: Shroomin' from start to finish
MyWhat on WBS: Mywhats WBS Tek
PF tek: Basic PF tek
Substrate.
This is usually coir or poo or straw or a combination of them. Usually you use spawn to colonize your bulk subs. This is where your mushrooms will get most of their nutrients and provide you with more surface area and thus more mushrooms. 99% of colonized bulk subs are cased.
Shroomin024 on Coir: Shroomin' from start to finish
Reckless Straw Log: Reckless Straw Logs
PF tek: Basic PF tek
ThinQ on Panaeolus: ThinQ's Panaeolus Tek
Abort.
A mushroom that for some reason ceases to grow and never reaches maturity. The head turns black and it just stops growing. These are said to be more potent that a normal mushroom.
Agar.
An extract from a seaweed used to solidify media. The agar used in mushrooms cultivation is usually available in powder form. This is used for isolation and things of that sort. Anyone serious about this hobby will start working with agar sooner or later.
Drjugglz Agar Prep: simple agar by DrJ
Hacxor's Agar Preperation: Cloning Tek With Agar **HaX**
Biological efficiency.
The definition of biological efficiency (BE) in mushroom cultivation is:
1 pound fresh mushrooms from 1 pound dry Substrate is 100% biological efficiency.
This definition was first used by the Agaricus industry to be able to compare different grow setups and Substrate compositions.
Note that this is not a true efficiency in thermodynamical terms!
The BE of Psilocybe cubensis is easily somewhere in the range of 200%.
Clone.
A population of individuals all derived asexually from the same single parent. In mushroom cultivation placing a piece of mushroom tissue on Agar medium in order to obtain growing Mycelium is called cloning. Also can go straight to LC with it. Best to use a piece of tissue from inside the stem or cap of the mushroom to lower chances of contam and raise chances of success.
Hacxor's Cloning Tek: Cloning Tek With Agar **HaX**
Grain to grain transfer.
Inoculation of grain by already colonized grain. G2G Taking 100% colonized RYE or WBS and mixing with something else you wish to colonize.
Overlay.
A dense mycelial growth that covers the Casing surface and shows little or no inclination to form pinheads. Overlay directly results from a dry Casing, high levels of Carbon Dioxide and/or low humidity.
Ryegrass.
Seeds used as Substrate for P. mexicana and P. tampanensis. Or any stone forming species.
Bruising.
This occurs when the mycelium or mushrooms are handled roughly. The normally WHITE mycelium will turn blueish greenish color. OFTEN mistaken for contam. This discoloration can also occur on mushrooms. Q-Tip Test will tell the truth on whether you have a contam or it is just bruising.
Q-Tip Test.
This is done when you want to see if you have a contam or if it is just bruising. Just take a Q-Tip (you can add water to the tip if you want) And rub the spot that you think may be contamed. IF what you are rubbing comes off onto the Q-Tip then you have a contam. If nothing is transferred to the Q-tip it is bruising. (NOW most cube spores are purple, but other types of shrooms can have red or black etc colored spores. These TOO will wipe off onto the Q-tip. This is NOT contam, so this is where the Q-Tip test can fail. BUT if you have done proper research you should know the difference between mold or spores. This is probably the most confusing part of the Q-Tip test for newbs. Try not to confuse spores with mold if you can. If you don't know post a picture and we will help you out.)
Shaking.
When you shake your jars, (anything other than BRF) you will shake at 30 to 40% OR 25 to 30%. That is IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ONCE!!!!!!!! That is ALL!!!!!!!!!
NEVER shake again!!!!!!!!!!!!!! If you do, you risk stalling the mycellium growth and may not end up with ANYTHING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Just that ONE time. NOT before, OR AFTER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
ONLY do it ONCE at 25 to 40% colonized, you have to judge that or post a pic etc. Shake the ever living shit out of them to mix it up. ONLY do this ONE TIME HOWEVER. More than this and you risk stalling, sometimes permanently. In truth shaking DOES NOT need to happen. It will only speed up the process by about 4 days or so. Better to not shake at all in reality. But if done only do it ONE time at 25 to 40% colonized. Then you have to wait it out for 100% and an extra week. NO MORE SHAKING!!! This is just MY opinion on it.
Good rules of thumb.
1 part spawn will colonize 4 parts bulk substrate.
Example: 1 quart of colonized WBS will colonize 1 gallon (4 quarts) of substrate.
1 pint would colonize 2 quarts of substrate.
One 1/2 pint would colonize 1 quart of substrate.
Inoculation Amounts for BRF and Grains
MS: 1cc for 1/2 pint. 1cc-3cc for 1 quart. 3-8cc for 1 gallon.
LC: 1cc for 1/2 pint. 1-5cc for 1 quart. 1-10cc for 1 gallon.
(with LC you can use more than specified. With MS you risk a chance of too much moisture in the jars, which usually cause baccillius AKA. sore rot. But can cause many other molds as well. With LC the mycelium is already growing. This means that other molds don't have a good chance of setting in before the mycelium takes hold. Regardless it only takes a minimum of 1cc of LC OR MS for ANY size jar. Only effects the amount of time and chances of mold forming.)
For inoculating LC with MS you should use 1-3cc per quart. 2-4cc per half gallon 3-6cc per gallon. Though I think that is FAR TOO MUCH. Again opinion.
Personal Preference.
MS: 1cc for 1/2 pint. 1cc-1.5cc for 1 quart. 2-3cc for 1 gallon.
LC: 1cc for 1/2 pint. 2-3cc for 1 quart. 4-6cc for 1 gallon.
For inoculating LC with MS 1cc will suffice for almost any amount. But for a gallon I use 3cc of MS. Half gallon gets 2cc. Quart gets 1cc.
When inoculating substrates. with multispore solution.
BRF: You should not shake the jar before or after inoculation.
Also not when it is 30 or 40% colonized. It doesn't shake well anyways.
WBS: Fluff up before you inoculate not after.
Shake at 30 to 40% colonized to help speed up the colonization rate.
RYE (whole grains): Fluff up before inoculation and after. (Do NOT fluff it up after if you are a newb. Both ways work)
Shake at 30 to 40% as well.
When inoculating subs. with LC
BRF: Don't shake before or after
Not when it is 30 to 40%
WBS:Fluff up before and after inoculation
Shake at 30 to 40%
Rye (whole grains): Fluff up before and after inoculation
Shake at 30 to 40%
If there is mold present before it fruits, get it out of there!!!
Wipe everything down with alcohol and hope for the best.
Condensation inside the jars is normal. You only have to worry if there is a layer of water in the bottom of the jar. It doesn't necessarily mean disaster. It just invites contams to come and grow. Therefore if you have a layer of water in the bottom of the jar watch it like a hawk. Just make sure contams don't set in. IF it is a small amount of water you are fine. If it is a 1/4" deep or something then that is BAD. High chance of contam. Again doesn't mean contam, just a higher chance of it.
Use 70 something % alcohol not 90 something % alcohol. 80% is money.
Use oust to clean the air and surfaces around you as well as using your alcohol.
If inoculating without a glovebox where a mask and/ at least rinse your mouth with listerine.
When in doubt, throw it out!!!
Be quick and sterile.
Flame sterilize out side of the glovebox for more safety. THere is a chance of a small explosion with all the alcohol and oust floating around in there.
Bad habits that will get you by.
IF your substrate has fruited or formed pins and molds appear you may be alright.
If it is cobweb it can be fought throughout the growing process with H2O2 (hydrogen peroxide). Fruiting or incubating and in between. (Cobweb is not abandoned spider webs. It is a mold caused from lack of FAE) If it is the green meanie (trich) you can wash off the fruits really good and ingest. Make sure there is no mold present you don't want to eat it. This is risky, so it is your choice whether or not to do it. This can only be done with cobweb and the green meanie. ANY other contam chuck it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Don't mess around.
This should only be done if the fruits have already formed and contams hit. If you see contams prior get it the HELL out of there!!!! THIS IS VERY RISKY TO DO. I do NOT suggest it unless you can positively identify the green meanie from a hundred other green molds!!!!!! NOT SUGGESTED!!!
If your cakes get way too dry before they go to dunk or after the PC, you can inject sterile water into them. You are not trying to soak it as you would a dunk. You are just trying to get it to the dunk. Works, but again risk involved.
Things that I do.
General Maintenance.
Throughout the grow I take everything out for a second and soak up any pools of water and wipe everything down with alcohol. The tins the jars the incubator or FC themselves. This is what I call "general maintenance". You cannot just leave these things to run. They should be maintained. IMO of course. Also changing the water in the incubator if it has been there for quite sometime.
Keeping the incubator hot because of cold temps.
Add another fish tank heater. Wrap in a blanket or plastic wrap. Place on top of refrigerator or in a high cupboard.
Keeping the FC cool because of high temps.
I use an ice pack or two. I place them in there to get my temps back down. You have to watch it!!!! And watch for condensation and switch it out. It takes up space too.
You could also use a tub-in-tub incubator with the heater off and fill the bottom with ice water. Just don't let it get too cold. Again watch it. But you have to switch it all out no matter what. Sooner or later.... Also make sure you set your temp gauge lower in the FC if you put ice in the lower tub. The bottom of the tote will very cold. (obviously) SO you have to take that into consideration. The perlite in the bottom should help keep the jars from getting too cold. But cold air sits low and hot air rises. Therefore your jars may be really cold this way, slowing growth. So try to get them up in the air etc. Just make sure they aren't sitting right on the bottom at 35 degrees. Try to keep them where they should be. Just want you to be aware of these things.....
Keeping the incubator/ FC warm in EXTREME COLD.
The BEST way to keep the incubator/ FC warm. First use the incubator for the FC. When using the incubator and the proper temp can still not be achieved you should place your incubator in an OVERsized tote that will acompany the incubator and leave MUCH space. Then take a Bunch of fiberglass insulation and stuff it, UNDERNEATH your incubator, in the bottom of the oversized tote. Then place incubator inside ON TOP of the insulation. Then stuff the insulation around the sides and finally on top, sealing the oversized tote with it's lid. Then make sure the incubator is a good 6 to 12 inches off the floor. This will work for a shed or the like. ANYWHERE it may drop below freezing etc. I have done it. It may take a little bit to get it exactly right, but it will work with slight tweaking here and there. (This can be loose insulation or with the paper backing. If the paper backing is used the fiberglass should be torn off, and the paper discarded.) Works the best thus far. You may need to add an extra fish tank heater and adjust for your needs. AND you MUST watch the outside temps as they change NOT ONLY day to day, but also as the day itself goes on.......
A very basic grow and what you are looking at. (using BRF jars, so simple)
Take you jars and inoculate them. Then place in the incubator. When fully colonized you will dunk and roll. Then place into the FC. Then pick your shrooms and dry. Then re dunk and roll and place in FC. Pick and dry. Repeat till no more mushies or contam sets in. OF course there is more to all these steps. Hopefully my post helps with that a little. But this is so basic. It just give you the idea of what is happening. Not what is actually going on in the incubator and the FC, not to mention the steps taken for each procedure. SO RESEARCH!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Assorted links:
How to use a 5 pound compost bag correctly: Compost bag knock up **HaX**
Definitions of Mycological Terms: Definitions
Common Abbreviations: Common Abbreviations
