Author Topic: Cleaning Glassware (Read 226 times)

Sedit · « **Reply #20 on:** April 10, 2009, 03:13:42 AM »

OK cool I still have some of the dark left so ill try to get a before and after shot. Remeber if you want it that clean just skim that foam off itll be know problem cuz the shits like shaving cream when you heat it slowly. May as well start a threed on cleaning your H2SO4.

poisoninthestain · « **Reply #21 on:** April 10, 2009, 03:32:42 AM »

Great idea.

I was doing some research and it turns out most technical grade H2SO4 is the product of industrial smelting or some similar shit. Usually with iron, steel, mostly metals as far as I understand it.

So a lot of the metal cations get carried over into the drain cleaners and whatnot leaving an ugly color as a result.

I thought that was interesting.

Sedit · « **Reply #22 on:** April 10, 2009, 03:58:42 AM »

Shitty pic thats why i aint bothering starting a threed till daylight and i can get atlest a half decent picture with my little nieces hana montana digital camera left is before and right is the clear product. It may have some metals in it wouldnt suprise me. The foam will probly handle alot of that. It started that black crud on the left at 93% and now its as concentrated as it can get 98%< and clear as water.

PS: Vesp i dont suppose there is a place to up pics here is there?

Vesp · « **Reply #23 on:** April 10, 2009, 06:53:37 PM »

Disappointingly I didn't get to try it since my stained glass bottles.. were left in a bucket over the winter. when it rained and snowed, the water froze and broke them. Oh well! the 1 liter Pyrex bottles were only like 2 dollars each anyways and I have a bunch more..

When posting, you can press additional options right below the area of where you type and then you can upload images that way.

Tsathoggua · « **Reply #24 on:** March 30, 2010, 06:17:26 PM »

For really resistant stains you could try base bath, which is just a solution of KOH or NaOH (IIRC KOH has better soluability in EtOH) in ethanol, its great for organics at least, unsure about FeO2/Fe2O3 but its cheap enough to give a go, conc. NaOH works similarly to HF (without the insidious toxicity) by dissolving a fine surface layer of glass, base bath is even better in my experience, I used it when I had a glass bong, and to clean my glass pipes, and even the vilest, stickiest burnt on tar got burnt a new one after a few pippette-fulls of a hot, saturated NaOH solution in OTC methylated spirits (which incidentally it decolorises the purple dye in) being squirted in and swirled about.

Be warned though it will do the same thing to exposed, tender chemist-flesh with even greater glee.

Wizard X · « **Reply #25 on:** March 30, 2010, 11:46:07 PM »

Sometimes a good heavy duty spray oven cleaner is all that's needed. Leave the foam on for about 30 minutes, then wash with hot water.

iknowjt · « **Reply #26 on:** March 31, 2010, 06:38:51 PM »

Quote from: Tsathoggua on March 30, 2010, 06:17:26 PM

For really resistant stains you could try base bath, which is just a solution of KOH or NaOH (IIRC KOH has better soluability in EtOH) in ethanol, its great for organics at least, unsure about FeO2/Fe2O3 but its cheap enough to give a go, conc. NaOH works similarly to HF (without the insidious toxicity) by dissolving a fine surface layer of glass, base bath is even better in my experience, I used it when I had a glass bong, and to clean my glass pipes, and even the vilest, stickiest burnt on tar got burnt a new one after a few pippette-fulls of a hot, saturated NaOH solution in OTC methylated spirits (which incidentally it decolorises the purple dye in) being squirted in and swirled about.

Be warned though it will do the same thing to exposed, tender chemist-flesh with even greater glee.

I can attest to alcohol + NaOH working wonders.
HF is even a bit better. Sold as Wink in the states. Actually HF isn't so scary, it's the weakest acid of the hydrogen halides. The reaction of HF dissolving/etching glass is not an acid/base reaction.

The mother of all ways to clean glassware: use a kiln

Tsathoggua · « **Reply #27 on:** April 01, 2010, 07:18:12 AM »

HF is indeed a weak acid in most concentrations, although it becomes quite a strong acid when almost anhydrous, but in solution it is a weak acid due to the lack of dissociation thanks to the way when fluorine bonds, it bonds with a tenacious death-grip from the bowels of elemental sheol.

The acidity isn't scary at all, rather the fact that it penetrates the skin very easily, and once there, leaches calcium and other alkaline metal salts out of blood and bone, and not only starts dissolving you from the inside out, but as the insoluable CaF2 starts leaching out of bone (in the process causing a hell of a lot of pain, although it can also bugger around with nerve transmission, beguiling one into believing relatively little pain=relatively little trouble) it precipitates in tissue and blood, causing sudden massive hypocalcaemia and hypomagnesaemia, which in turn induces cardiac problems and death.

Spilling conc. or even moderately concentrated HF on oneself is an emergency, and when working with any strength, one needs calcium gluconate gel on hand in case of exposure, to provide a source of Ca++ for the fluoride ion to latch onto instead of that in one's bones and blood, before one washes off, and goes straight to hospital.

and a kiln won't be too much good if it fuses on baked crap to the glass, what starts as organic polymeric crap could well become fused-in carbon much, nescessitating treatment with piranha solution, which in hazard terms, lives up to its namesake.

iknowjt · « **Reply #28 on:** April 01, 2010, 01:29:37 PM »

Quote from: Tsathoggua on April 01, 2010, 07:18:12 AM

HF is indeed a weak acid in most concentrations, although it becomes quite a strong acid when almost anhydrous, but in solution it is a weak acid due to the lack of dissociation thanks to the way when fluorine bonds, it bonds with a tenacious death-grip from the bowels of elemental sheol.

The acidity isn't scary at all, rather the fact that it penetrates the skin very easily, and once there, leaches calcium and other alkaline metal salts out of blood and bone, and not only starts dissolving you from the inside out, but as the insoluable CaF2 starts leaching out of bone (in the process causing a hell of a lot of pain, although it can also bugger around with nerve transmission, beguiling one into believing relatively little pain=relatively little trouble) it precipitates in tissue and blood, causing sudden massive hypocalcaemia and hypomagnesaemia, which in turn induces cardiac problems and death.

Spilling conc. or even moderately concentrated HF on oneself is an emergency, and when working with any strength, one needs calcium gluconate gel on hand in case of exposure, to provide a source of Ca++ for the fluoride ion to latch onto instead of that in one's bones and blood, before one washes off, and goes straight to hospital.

and a kiln won't be too much good if it fuses on baked crap to the glass, what starts as organic polymeric crap could well become fused-in carbon much, nescessitating treatment with piranha solution, which in hazard terms, lives up to its namesake.

thank you. I stand corrected
(duuh what was i thinking, color on glass, of whatever type, isn't phased by a kiln. In fact it's working temp is higher than clear glass.)

lugh · « **Reply #29 on:** April 01, 2010, 09:09:05 PM »

This information was rated excellent when it was posted on the Hive:

Cleaning Laboratory Glassware
Formula No. 1
For bottles, use a test bottle washer or place the bottles in a suitable rack with perforated or slotted cover and immerse. A cleaning solution made of 1 oz. of a good grade of washing powder to a gallon of water and heated to 130°-150° F. will be found satisfactory. Scrub the inside only with a brush having soft bristles. Rinse in hot water to remove all traces of the cleanser and invert the bottles to drain. Do not soak the bottles too long.
When very dirty, greasy bottles must be cleaned, a very good cleaning solution can be made by dissolving 31/3 oz. of potassium dichromatic in 1 qt. of water, and slowly adding to this 1 qt. of sulphuric acid. This solution will remove all traces of grease after sufficient soaking, but care must be taken to keep it from prolonged contact with the outside of the necks, because of its effect on the enamel in the lines and numbers.
No. 2
Take a 10 oz. cake of a good grade of cleaning and polishing grit cake soap, such as "Bon Ami" and pulverize it to a powder with a mortar and pestle. Cut a 12 oz. cake of a good grade of rosin laundry soap, such as "Octagon," into thin slices and add just enough water to cover the mass. Slowly heat on a hot plate until the soap has dissolved in the water and a clear solution results. Add this liquid soap mixture to the powdered grit cake in a beaker or earthen jar, stirring the mixture well. Allow to stand overnight or until the resulting mixture has solidified into a soft mass. The mixture can then be easily applied to the wet glassware in the usual manner with a brush or the hands, scrubbed thoroughly and finally rinsed in running water. It is only necessary from time to time to add small quantities of water to keep the mixture at the proper consistency. To make a larger supply increase the quantities accordingly.

Removal of Tars and Carbon Residues from Glass Equipment
Distillation flasks and other equipment which have contained tars, or flasks which have been used for distillations in which tars and carbon residues are formed, can usually be cleaned when all other methods fail by treatment with a hot concentrated solution of sodium hydroxide to which small amounts of potassium permanganate have been added. The strong oxidizing powers of permanganate solutions are especially effective on tarry materials. At times it may be necessary to repeat the treatment, and to boil the solutions for a time. This method has been found to be much superior to those using boiling acids and solvents, and much better than alkaline solutions by themselves. The economy of materials employed makes it available to all.
.
Cleaning Organic Smears-Tars, Etc.-from Apparatus
Put the dirty beakers, test tubes, distilling flasks, etc., into a large evaporating dish containing concentrated commercial sulphuric acid heated to 200-225° C. (400-435° F.). Small quantities of nitric acid should be added whenever the heated acid becomes black in color. Large beakers can be turned around sufficiently to bring all parts into the hot acid. When the apparatus is clean, remove (use a glass rod) and allow the articles to cool before rinsing in water. This cleaning solution is not satisfactory for petroleum products. This solution is much more economical than chromic acid solutions-the same acid can be used many times.
Caution: Have beakers, flasks, tubes, etc., pointed away from the operator while they are being put into, the acid. Sometimes the reaction with wet, very dirty apparatus causes a spattering of acid from the open end of the vessel. The acid should be kept in a glass-stoppered bottle when stored.
Cleaning Flasks or Other Apparatus from Baked-In Carbon Deposits
Put a small quantity of potassium chlorate in the dry flask; heat the flask gently in a Bunsen burner flame until the chlorate is barely melted; rotate the flask so that the molten chlorate comes in contact with the carbon. The quantity of chlorate to contact the carbon residue is surprisingly small. After cooling. dissolve the remaining mixture in water. Caution: Use this only on the solid carbon stain that will not wash out or that cannot be removed by ordinary mechanical means.
Chromic Acid Cleaning Mixture
This is needed for apparatus such as burettes, etc., which cannot be immersed conveniently in a vessel of hot sulphuric acid.
Add 1 1. of cone. commercial sulphuric acid to 50 g. chromic acid dissolved in 25 cc. of warm water. There will be no trouble from crystallization of salts from this mixture. This mixture, without heating, removes organic material after a few hours of contact. More chromic acid can be added whenever the solution loses its red color. Caution: Keep in a glass-stoppered bottle. The reason: absorption of water from the air reduces the activities.
Cleaning Laboratory Glassware
lodoform stains and odor may be removed by washing glassware with a solution of potassium or sodium hydroxide and rinsing it with a small amount of alcohol. Of course, the final step in this cleaning operation. as well as in all others to be described, is thorough washing with soap and water. Ferrocvanide or iron stains are easily and rapidly removed with a solution of potassium hydroxide. Lime deposited by lime water or similar preparations can be removed from glassware with diluted solutions of acetic acid or nitric acid. Deposits from lead subacetate solution can also be removed with these cleansing agents.
Deposits of soluble metallic salts are usually readily removed by thorough rinsing with water; however, in some cases, a small amount of hydrochloric acid may facilitate the cleansing. Insoluble or practically insoluble salts may be removed from glassware by dissolving them with the appropriate solvent which differs for each salt. Metallic soaps, such as oleates and lead plaster, may be removed by oil of turpentine.Oils, resins, balsams, and similar resinous bodies can usually be removed with soap, but in some cases a solution of potassium hydroxide may be required.
Collodion may be removed by peeling it off the glassware. If, however, the film adheres firmly, a mixture of ether and alcohol will remove it. In the case of adherent guttapercha film, chloroform should be used as the solvent.
Sawdust is one of the best materials for removing petrolatum, lard, or other greasy substances from mortars and ointment tiles. Paper cleansing tissues are also excellent for this purpose. After the greater part of the grease has been removed with the sawdust or paper, the glassware should be washed with soap and water.

Author Topic: Cleaning Glassware (Read 226 times)

Sedit

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poisoninthestain

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Sedit

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Vesp

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Tsathoggua

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Wizard X

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iknowjt

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Tsathoggua

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iknowjt

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lugh

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