|
|
| Author |
Message |
nubee
Master Archiver
|
| Joined: 18 Feb 2005 |
| Posts: 213 |
| Location: homeless |
18579.78 Points
|
|
|
Barebones Guide to extracting DMT from Plant Materials
Wed Mar 23, 2005 9:02 am |
 |
|
 found this guide over at DMT world not too far back..; one of the most recent to be published and from what ive read the simplest and effective.
--->View the original Post<---
| Quote: |
Barebones Guide to extracting DMT from Plant Materials
Explanations are kept to a minimum and every step will need to be followed. Only by experiencing the process will one really understand how it works!
Do not take short cuts or try to do anything else the first time you do this!
Please do not complicate or make this procedure into anymore than it is!
This process is designed to be simple, natural, safe and to maximize purity.
“Results” are largely determined by the nature and quality of the plant material.
This process should take about a day, and perhaps 2 or 3 hours of actual time during that day...
Plant Material:
For most people in most parts of the world, Mimosa Hostilis Root Bark is the best choice, containing anywhere from 0.3% to over 1% of DMT.
Psychotria Viridis, Diplopterys Cabrerena, Desmanthus Illionios and Acacia Obtusifolia may be viable options to some with access to these plants – these plants can contain anything from 0.1% to about 0.5% of DMT, often depending on the specific plant involved!
Phalaris is best left to plant breeders and experienced researchers...it should work in theory, but usually doesn't in practise for many, many reasons.
Equipment:
* large steel saucepan
* wooden spoon
* old shirt or t-shirt
* funnel
* two glass jars larger than 300mls!
*three jars of up to a one litre holding capacity!
* glass turkey baster (glass is HIGHLY preferable to plastic in this case!)
* measuring jug
* 10 or 20ml syringes without needles
* a plate
* scraper blades
Chemicals:
* White vinegar
* Sodium Hydroxide, Lye or Caustic Soda (usually available from a supermarket) as dry pellets!
* 600 mls of solvent.
Zippo or Ventti lighter fluid should be available anywhere in the world in 125ml cans.
In Australia, Shellite is available in 1 litre bottles in most supermarkets.
In the U.S., what is sold as “Naptha” is readily available in Hardware stores. Ronsinol lighter fluid also available in the U.S.
All these solvents are different mixtures of liquid hydrocarbons.
* Sodium Bicarbonate or Baking Soda
* Fine white sea salt
Note on Chemicals:
Minimise inhaling vapours from solvents...if you are sensitive use a good quality respirator designed for solvents found in Hardware stores.
In the case of spillage onto skin with solvent or lye, wash off with water immediately!
Eye protection and gloves may often be necessary as precautionary protective measures.
These chemicals are generally safe when carefully utilized with a basic understanding of their properties, although accidents are indeed accidents!
--
1. Extracting the alkaloids from the plant material
This step essentially involves making a ‘tea’ from the plant materials, infusing the alkaloids into water with an acid!
Finely strip the plant material by hand or grind with a coffee grinder.
Put 100 grams or less of plant material into the pot and then pour about 1 litre of water and 200mls of Vinegar into the pot.
Use more water if desired.
Simmer on low heat in a saucepan for 1 hour covered with a lid, ensuring the liquid does not boil.
Stir every 10-15 minutes with a wooden spoon.
Strain the plant material, then set aside the extracted plant liquid and put back the plant material in the saucepan with the same amount of fresh water and vinegar.
Simmer for another hour.
Strain and throw away the plant matter.
(when tasting the plant matter most signs of bitter alkaloids will now not be present!)
Combine the plant liquids and simmer it down to about 1/4 of the initial total liquid volume.
200-500mls is a good amount to work with when extracting from small amounts of plant material. (under 100 grams!)
Filter this plant liquid through a shirt on top of a funnel.
One filtering is enough to remove any particles! More filtering may be deemed necessary, but will not effect yields!
2. Defatting
This step removes various fats and oils which can hinder the solvent extraction and possibly enter the final product.
Pour 100mls of solvent into jar, which will float on the top of the plant liquid.
Shake with lid on for a minute or two, VERY carefully at first, to ensure no build up and/or sudden release of pressure!
Let solvent settle and resolve until there are no bubbles present.
The top layer of solvent contains undesirable elements such as fats and oils.
Turkey baster the plant liquid from bottom the jar into another jar, leaving the solvent containing the fats.
Syringe out the last bit of plant liquid from the bottom.
Throw away the solvent containing fats.
(let evaporate out if you are concerned about polluting your drains!)
Defat from the plant liquid another two times, leaving you with a plant liquid minus many fats and oils!
3. Converting The Alkaloids to a freebase form
This step involves raising the ph of the alkaloids from about 4-5 (acid) to about 12 (alkaline), so that the alkaloids are converted to a free base form and can be captured/dissolved by a solvent!
Add 100mls of water to the measuring jug and then 3 teaspoons of Lye to the water, being careful not to breathe vapors.
Stir with wooden spoon until all the lye is dissolved.
Add the lye solution into the jar containing the plant liquid with the turkey baster, drop by drop, stirring with a wooden spoon.
The plant liquid will first begin to change color and become darker. Then it will go white and turn darker until it becomes black.
Continue to add 10-20mls of lye solution until just after it goes black! (about ph 12…)
Adding the lye should take 10 or so minutes as a general guide.
4. Extracting the Alkaloids into a solvent
This step involves adding a solvent to the plant liquid, and shaking so that the solvent dissolves the alkaloids, allowing them to be separated from the other substances in the plant liquid!
Wait 5 minutes and then add 100mls of solvent.
Shake jar for 1 minute, again being careful to release pressure gradually!
Solvent should resolve totally clear in under 1 hour. (even 5-10 minutes!)
By this time all the DMT should have dissolved into the solvent!
[If the solvent doesn't resolve clear after this time, add another teaspoon of lye diluted in 30mls of water. Shake the jar again and wait for solvent to resolve clear.]
The solvent may have a slight yellow or white discoloration, which is the DMT. The solvent may often appear totally clear.
Remove the plant liquid into another jar with a turkey baster and syringe, then transferring the solvent to another jar.
Repeat this solvent extraction another two times, shaking for a few minutes each time and then placing the combined solvents in a clean jar.
5. Cleaning the Solvent of any impurities
This step is strictly optional, but generally recommended for most plant materials!
Stir 1 teaspoon of Sodium Hydroxide or lye into 200mls of water in a measuring jug.
Pour this solution into the jar containing the combined solvents and shake for one minute.
Wait for the solutions to resolve into two layers and then remove the bottom water layer with the turkey baster and syringe, and then throw out this water leaving the cleaned solvent!
Repeat the same washing procedure, this time using 1 teaspoon of Sodium Bicarbonate in 200mls of water.
Then repeat the wash, using 5 teaspoons of fine sea salt.
Let the washed solvent sit in the measuring jug for 10 minutes, making sure to remove any water which falls to the bottom of the jug with a syringe after 10 minutes.
Pour the solvent onto a plate in a dry and shady place with good ventilation, possibly with a fan to quicken drying.
Pour under 50mls of water into the solvent on the plate.
Wait until all the solvent has dried....and pour off water (designed to capture any last impurities!) onto the second biggest toe of your left foot.
Let solvent dry completely and scrape plate with special scraper blades.
DMT generally appears as a waxy oil, as yellow or white crystals, and largely depends on the type of plant and the specific nature of the plant material utilized.
Store DMT in cool, dry and air protected environment!
For most people, the easiest way to smoke DMT is in a water bong, layered with a herb like Damiana, so that the flame does not actually touch the DMT!
Start with small amounts and work your way up…
|
|
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
|
|
|
Fri Mar 25, 2005 10:51 pm |
|
|
| Quote: |
In the case of spillage onto skin with solvent or lye, wash off with water immediately!
|
Whoa, I guess the author of this guide never saw Fight Club...
There are better guides than this one for botanical DMT extractions IMO. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
IndoleAmine
Dreamreader Deluxe
|
| Joined: 09 Feb 2005 |
| Posts: 681 |
| Location: Bahamas |
18717.10 Points
|
|
|
Sat Mar 26, 2005 1:19 am |
|
|
No, he's right. Spillages of aequous alkali metal hydroxide solutions on skin should be removed by rinsing immediately with plenty of water!!
(the heat evolution you mention as having it seen in "fightclub" just happens when solid alkali metal hydroxide comes into contact with H2O - the DISSOLUTION process is the really exothermic one, not the dilution process)
For lots of more extraction guides, especially at the end of the thread, see https://www.synthetikal.com/synthforum/viewtopic.php?t=250
i_a |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
|
|
Sat Mar 26, 2005 4:16 am |
|
|
^^^^
Yes, that's true. Usually when I see the word "lye" I think of solid sodium hydroxide crystals, not an aqueous solution. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
DrugPhreak
Working Bee
|
| Joined: 07 Mar 2005 |
| Posts: 114 |
| Location: Bee Hive |
4261.30 Points
|
|
|
Tue Mar 29, 2005 4:54 am |
|
|
I would use some vinegar to wash the area where it spilled instead. Most of the DMT extractions I've seen on the net are way to long winded IMO. This is all it takes...
1. Cover 100gm of dry finely powdered root bark with 300ml of boiling dH2O brought down to pH 3 with HCl. This is swirled around a little bit and left to sit for an hour.
2. The acidic water/root bark is vacuum filtered (with slow filter papers) and the root bark is squeezed well. The filtrate is vacuum filtered again using a cotton plug also. Step 1 and 2 are repeated two more times.
3. The combined filtrate is defatted with 100ml of xylene or toluene two times and one time with 100ml of naphtha. Swirl them in well and let it sit for 30-60 minutes before discarding the non-polar and emulsion (if any) layers.
4. The aqueous layer is basified to pH 13 with 20% NaOH solution slowly with stirring and is allowed to come to room temperature.
5. 100ml of warm naphtha is added and it is swirled in really well and left to sit for 30 minutes and the naphtha is separated.
6. The naphtha is washed with 50ml of dH2O made pH 8 with NaOH and the dH2O is discarded.
7. The naphtha is poured in to a glass crystallization dish and left to evaporate with the help of a fan. The crystals are scraped up with a razor and recrystallized if desired.
Filter thru celite for stubborn emulsions. ReX from IPA or Toluene/MeOH.
Yield: 400 – 600mg. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
IndoleAmine
Dreamreader Deluxe
|
| Joined: 09 Feb 2005 |
| Posts: 681 |
| Location: Bahamas |
18717.10 Points
|
|
|
Tue Mar 29, 2005 8:21 am |
|
|
You will have NaOH traces in your product (harsh tasting smoke), and:
| Quote: |
|
ReX from IPA or Toluene/MeOH
|
toluene/methanol?? which purpose do you see in using a nonpolar AND an alcohol?
And if you'd extracted the basified solution with diethyl ether 5x instead of naphta 1x, you would've got more....
greets
i_a |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
joe_aldehyde
huxleys associate
|
| Joined: 06 Apr 2005 |
| Posts: 310 |
|
5653.90 Points
|
|
|
Fri May 27, 2005 12:44 am |
|
|
| Quote: |
|
You will have NaOH traces in your product (harsh tasting smoke)
|
like you can smoke NaOH...ahahhaha...i guess you smoke KCl to get high
Sodium hydroxide
Synonyms: Sodium Hydroxide BP; Caustic soda; Sodium Hydroxide Pearl BP; Sodium Hydroxide Solution - ANALYPUR; Sodium hydroxide 46-48% solution
Molecular Formula: HNaO
Formula Weight: 39.99
Registry number: 1310-73-2
MDL number: MFCD00003548
Density: 2.13
Melting point: 318 °C
Boiling point: 1390 °C >>> very likely that this is gonna end up in your lungs, yes.
nD20: 1.473-1.475 |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
IndoleAmine
Dreamreader Deluxe
|
| Joined: 09 Feb 2005 |
| Posts: 681 |
| Location: Bahamas |
18717.10 Points
|
|
|
: Barebones Guide to extracting DMT from Plant Materials
Fri May 27, 2005 1:52 am |
|
|
You are just too stupid.
Solid NaOH + heat + n,n-DMT . ... ahh, fuck it you don't deserve any info. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
loki
guinea pig
|
| Joined: 09 Mar 2005 |
| Posts: 391 |
|
14167.88 Points
|
|
|
re: Barebones Guide to extracting DMT from Plant Materials
Fri May 27, 2005 3:07 pm |
|
|
lol i_a, i've been bleating about the rather obvious fact that any residual hydroxide is gonna eat *all* of the dmt in a basepipe for near on to a year now...
drying the nonpolar with anhydrous MgSO4 should eliminate it completely right? the residuals are from the trace water-solubility of the nonpolar, which is somewhere around 0.1% roughly speaking. drying it won't totally eliminate the tannins but it would probably remove some. at the same time, it usually takes a fair bit of effort to get the tannin to dissolve into it anyway (time at least, or heat one or the other)
i'm inclined to think, now, after much effort spent on writing a comprehensive and easy to use guide to extracting, that really, the only way to get it right, is to know the proper procedures well established in organic and phytochemistry, and some practise actually doing acid/base extractions. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
nubee
Master Archiver
|
| Joined: 18 Feb 2005 |
| Posts: 213 |
| Location: homeless |
18579.78 Points
|
|
|
re: Barebones Guide to extracting DMT from Plant Materials
Mon May 30, 2005 8:56 am |
|
|
| im pretty sure any residue hydroxide's are removed with the wash's of bicarb and salt... |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
loki
guinea pig
|
| Joined: 09 Mar 2005 |
| Posts: 391 |
|
14167.88 Points
|
|
|
Mon May 30, 2005 4:45 pm |
|
|
that doesn't work either, and any wash below about pH 11 is gonna wash some dmt out (dmt salts seem to be VERY polar and lots dissolves in water). And remember, sodium bicarbonate is 2 moles sodium to 1 mole diacidic carbonic acid (which lowers the pH but it would probably result in a net 20-40% worse sodium ion residues.
I think that drying it has gotta be the right way to do it. the problem is that even as polar a solvent as heptane (a major component of the part of naptha which is good) still contains, .05% water, and that's not water, that's pH 12-13 lye solution. And i'm pretty sure that tannins would make this somewhat worse. Using excess solvent probably would add to problems too, about 10-20ml of hot naptha dissolves a gram (boiling), and at room temperature about 30-50ml is needed. more naptha means more water dissolved too.
Another option for removing it would be zeolite or other ion exchange resin, and carbon would remove the tannins. As for tannins, adding calcium carbonate to the extraction is said to promote the precipitation of calcium-tannin salts (it reduces the red colour and greatly diminishes the yellow/brown component, i'm pretty sure if enough were used it would completely eliminate it, more time boiling would be needed).
It would be preferable, imho, to use a drying agent at the end and calcium carbonate at the beginning, because one can avoid adsorbing product more easily, and if one overdoes the drying agent it's easier to recover the adsorbed material (boil in a small amount of naptha).
regarding recrystallisation solvents, i have not read anywhere successful reports of using anything but an single aliphatic nonpolar solvent. I think the problem with alcohols and ketones is water, which as i said, dmt is fond of ionising into with the slightest provocation, and disrupting crystallisation, i think that possibly anything from alcohols to aliphatic hydrocarbons could be used, but ONLY if dry.
I suspect that the best possible solvents for it would be certain hydrocarbons, i know pentane has poor solubility of dmt from experiment (with a roughly fractionated pentane fraction of naptha). Possibly something like a higher boiling aliphatic such as found in high boiling naptha may have a low solubility suitable for this process. one problem with using naptha is that the lowest solubility component is the first to boil out. Probably the ideal solvent for reX of DMT would be pentanes.
Last edited by loki on Mon May 30, 2005 4:53 pm; edited 1 time in total |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
IndoleAmine
Dreamreader Deluxe
|
| Joined: 09 Feb 2005 |
| Posts: 681 |
| Location: Bahamas |
18717.10 Points
|
|
|
Mon May 30, 2005 4:52 pm |
|
|
Its kinda tricky, but surely not impossible.
I know how it is done, but forgive me - I simply HAVE to play the asshole here.....
(hydroxide traces cause the DMT to turn red/brownish upon storage, whereas properly neutralized NaOH makes for nice light yellow DMT after the same storage period of several months. But what do I know.) |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
loki
guinea pig
|
| Joined: 09 Mar 2005 |
| Posts: 391 |
|
14167.88 Points
|
|
|
Mon May 30, 2005 5:01 pm |
|
|
indoleamine, I am pretty sure swim has likewise produced material such as what you describe, the material was very very slightly tinted and translucent in appearance. The wash water was plain old tap water, presumed to be fairly high (in progressive order of concentration) calcium, magnesium and iron oxide, and probably traces of zinc. a white gacky but of small amount precipitate fell out of the solution when being washed. The same tap water was used in the extraction, and reduced by a factor of about 5, meaning that the calcium precipitation almost certainly was involved.
do you think it makes you seem smarter when you withhold information you are privy to, information which has not been properly established in any of the literature or online discussion i have encountered (not to say i have encompassed all the material)? I am most definitely not forgiving this, and i don't think anyone else will either. Is this bbs about discussion or bragging? |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
PissyBee
|
| Joined: 07 Jul 2005 |
| Posts: 2 |
|
69.72 Points
|
|
|
re: Barebones Guide to extracting DMT from Plant Materials
Thu Jul 07, 2005 4:27 am |
|
|
| Okay, what about instead of the polar wash, you just evaporate to get crystals... Then grind em up put them in a coffee filter then wash with 10% ammonia(janitorial strength). Then let them dry and presto, clean crystals... Would that not work? Then recystallise to get big chunks... |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
GOD
|
| Joined: 05 Mar 2005 |
| Posts: 6 |
|
246.96 Points
|
|
|
re: Barebones Guide to extracting DMT from Plant Materials
Thu Jul 07, 2005 6:14 am |
|
|
swiGs experience
mind you, he was a hacker-bee, but did the xtraction PLENTY of times as he loved the stuff.......
he noticed that without the backwash, hed end up with stuff that burned the hell outta his mouth and trachea when he smoked it....not fun.
the stuff would eventually turn reddish after a while as indoleamine stated -obviously knows what he/she is talking about........
keys to good extraction -
DEFAT DEFAT DEFAT
till it comes back clean and clear
dont be lazy!
also, swiG would do 3 quick backwashes with very very slightly basic DH2O, and a bicarb as well
never noticed any significant decrease in yeilds from the backwashing, only cleaner smoke (mind you, each extraction will vary according to materials etc, but swiG doesnt remember ever feeling any depression due to a loss of goods-)
do the washes!
ps- swiG used naphta from a yellow plastic bottle, he found if he removed it FIRST, then warmed it up slightly before use, he felt happier then when he didnt.
if he heated the naphta in the yellow plastic containers he got then in, there was a yellow-plasticy color that transfered to his product. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
|
|
Powered by phpBB 2.0.11 © 2001, 2002 phpBB Group
Igloo Theme Version 1.0 :: Created By: Andrew Charron
|
Forums
Rhodium
The Hive
Shop
Profile
Log in
Register
Log in to check your private messages
1967